Upper & lower ball joint snapped while driving had to replace both along with idler arm pitman arm & tie rod ends , had received notice about possible failure on these when I called gmc they reported my car was not included in this possible recall. Cost of 1500.00 also fuel pump failed cost of 700.00 now driver side door is defected will not close , probems with electrical system locks ,windows, lights interior & exterior,wipers will only work occasionally, fuel gauge sticks.
1997 GMC Jimmy electrical complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 28 of 28, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Vehicle stalls out while going down the road, I was going sixty miles per hour and vehicle just stalled out, going twenty miles per hour and vehicle stalls out. Have had it hooked up to computer and cannot be diagnosed unless it is happening at time of diagnosis. This is a definate safety issue when you are going down road and vehicle just stalls out without warning. This is a constant occurrence.
While driving smoke came out of the dashboard. Driver pulled over, and within three minutes vehicle blew up. Fire department extinguished the fire.
Shortly after adjusting the front passenger power seat control I noted a trail of smoke from beneath the seat and the smell of burning plastic. I immediately opened the fuse panel and attempted to remove the main fuse. The upper main buss that controls the power seat motors, power doors, and anti-theft system was so hot that I could not touch it without burning my fingers. I had to use a pen knife to remove it. No other fuses were affected. Following removal of the fuse my turn signals, emergency flashers, and rear stop lights are all inoperative. These elements are on a separate circuit from the main buss I removed. I believe that had I not gotten the fuse removed when I did the electrical short would have resulted in a serious fire.
Power accessory circuit breaker (20) gets extremely hot after power windows and power seat fails to operate. At same time, when hit a bump in road, interior lights flicker. Burned fingers trying to remove breaker before fire may have started. Dealer guessed and replaced driver seat electric switch, but still gets hot and fails.
I lost power while driving my 1997 gmc jimmy on the highway. It just stopped running. I pushed it to the side of the road and called for a tow truck. When we got to the dealer, the vehicle started.
The vehicle caught fire, consumer was informed the fire started near the cigarette lighter.
97 jimmy. Electrical ignition failure. 5x at least. Driving along and , for no reason, all power cuts out completely. Drift to side of road, stop, and vehicle usually starts again either right away, or in a couple minutes. [xxx] dangerous. 2 different gmc dealers don't have a clue. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
While driving at night, consumer states' if you pull highbeam switch towards you, the rear brake lights illuminate. But if you push switch in the rear tail lights will go out. Please provide any further information. Mr
Brake lights came on and would not go out until the brake light fuse blew out. Replaced fuse and brake lights would not go out. This happened about 2-3 months ago and I took this vehicle to jones chevrolet in sumter, sc. They said they adjusted the brake light switch and corrected the problem. This time I took the vehicle to tim's auto pro in dalzell, sc to get it checked out. Tim found that the wiring from the fuse block up under and behind the dash had shorted out due to the way it was installed originally at the factory. Part of the wiring harness was chaffed in several places and the wiring melted together keeping our brake lights on. He removed the dash and associated items to get to the harness and repaired it so our brakes work and there are no shorts. My concern is that gmc should be paying for this repair since the harness was not installed properly when the vehicle was built. If by some chance the wiring had caught fire under the dash while my wife was driving her gmc jimmy down the road there could have been serious complications or loss of life. Please check for me with gmc and see if this is a problem that has been reported on other gmc jimmy or blazer products.
This vehicle has been a nightmare...unfortunately it was a spur of the moment purchase. Although used, with only 39,000 miles, I thought I would be ok since it had an extended warranty till 72,000. I have replaced both upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, alternator, belt tensioner, ignition switch, 4wd sensors, gas gauge sensor, left rear axle shaft and both rear axle bearings. At least these were all covered under the warranty, but not the rental cars for all the time the truck spent in the shop. Now the vehicle has 90,000 miles and the dealership is telling me that the recall for the ball joints does not pertain to my truck (the VIN # is not included), the transmission dipstick is rusted (I've seen several complaints but no recall), my accelerator pedal sticks severely (also numerous complaints), and I've already replaced (out of pocket cost of $1700) a complete rear end. I owe more than this vehicle is worth...but will need to get rid of it soon because I do not feel safe driving my son around in it. Many of these problems could have caused a serious accident...
My vehicle lost all power while driving down the freeway, losing steering and brakes and almost causing a crash. The vehicle had to be towed in to the dealer and it was determined that the battery leaked from the positive cable, running down the side mount cable to the starter, eating through the starter and alternator. This has happened to 3 other friends of mine as well with the exact same thing happening. My brother in law is a certifed ase master mechanic for ge capital fleet and they have had over 28 of the same reported problems. The dealership has also had several vehicles reported with the same condition. With battery acid blowing all over the engine compartment, I'm wondering if other compnents have been comprimised, espically the frame of the vehicle.
The engine abruptly quits (as if turned off). This has happened while climbing long grades. Altitude has been 7000-10000 feet. Outside temperature has ranged from 65-85 degrees. Each time after pulling off the road and coming to a stop the engine starts after a brief time and continues normally. Dealer has driven the car for extended periods and has been unable to replicate the problem. Three times the engine has quit while in heavy high speed traffic which causes some concern about safety. The problem appears to be computer caused as it is so abrupt - no stutter, stumble or cough.
Transmission failed on interstate and the emergency flashers failed, transmission has been replaced on two occasions, the electrical system experiences continual malfunctions (emergency flashers, brake lights, warning buzzer).
Front drivers seat has been replaced twice because a sharp object within the seat keeps poking a hole in the seat. Nlm
Alternator failed.
Abs brakes failed, vehicle lost control, resulting in a head-on collision. Upon impact, driver's/passenger's air bags failed to deploy, resulting in injuries. In addition, ignition locked up/fuel gauge and alternator failed.
Alternator failed twice.
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