My heater is blowing out cold air also not able to use defroster which is a saftey hazard - I have had several cars in the past not a honda and never had problem wth heating
2010 Honda CR-V electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 43, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Tl* the contact called on behalf of the owner of a 2010 honda cr-v. The contact stated that on multiple occasions, the key fob failed to operate as intended. The contact had to call a tow truck to have the vehicle unlocked. The contact had not notified the dealer. The manufacturer was not notified of this failure. The failure mileage was 80,000. The VIN was not available.
My engine would stall right after all electrical components would shut off then come back on right after. Intermittent spark firing. Exact same thing as in the #11v004000 recall
No access to spare tire cannot access spare tire in hatchback - unable to open hatchback due to lock actuator failure and vehicle is not equipped with an external unlock mechanism at the hatchback. Unsafe if a tire fails. No access to the spare tire.
Takata recall car is sputtering, and then stalling, alarm system goes off unexpectantly, check engine light and other lights go off - reads as misfire and has to deal with emisions system. Appears to happen in other model hondas and some type of switch. Dangerous if car stalls in traffic
There has been several stalled engine incidents while driving on a city street and also stationary at a red traffic light. No engine light has turned on leading to a wiring issue perhaps. Not so much a mechanical issue more so electrical of software related. It is unknown when the engine will turn off. There are two recall associated with stalled engine for honda cr-v 2010. There are the ignition circuit coupler failure (11v004000) and the automatic transmission control module software (11v395000) however my VIN is not apart of that recall. I am scared and fear for my life that this stalled engine issue will cause my car to get into an accident or even worst have someone else and I get killed.
I am deaf. Passengers note sound of door locks locking and unlocking continuously while driving. Also passenger door will not unlock from inside, a severe safety hazard.
I wish to complain about my 2010 honda crv. I am having issues with my air conditioning unit. When it is hot, it blows hot air even when it is set on the lowest temperature. However, when it is nighttime it will blow cold air. Honda evacuated and recharged the system only for me to experience the same issues two months later. I was then told that I needed to replace the AC compressor, coil set, clutch set, etc. I went to get a second opinion and I was told that the AC compressor would not even power on due to electrical issues. In relation to electrical issues, my car also stalled about a year ago and I was able to have that issue rectify without taking it to honda.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda cr-v. After the contact exited the vehicle and locked the doors, the vehicle would inadvertently restart. The contact stated that the vehicle started by itself four times in the last couple of weeks. The contact called ohio valley honda (532 n 3rd st, steubenville, oh 43952, (740) 283-3435) and was informed that diagnostic testing was needed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The dealer and manufacturer were not made aware of the failures. The failure mileage was approximately 83,000.
Issue 1: when I am trying use the heater it seems like my side (drive side) is stuck on blowing cold air. While the passenger side seems to be adjusting fine and the temperature changes just fine. But on my side, eventho it says it's on hi heat. Or 85 degrees. It's still just blowing cold air on me. I'm doing something wrong. Also, when I press the duel button it still just blows cold air on me, but not on the passenger side.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda cr-v. While the vehicle was parked, all four doors locked and could not be unlocked electronically or manually. The contact called aaa to get the doors open. The failure occurred numerous times. The dealer (ourisman honda of laurel, 3371 laurel fort meade rd, laurel, md 20724) was contacted and informed the contact to call the federal safety agency. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 110,000.
The rear lock has become faulty and is making a loud noise.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda cr-v. While driving approximately 60 MPH, several warning indicators illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact noticed smoke under the hood and immediately pulled the vehicle over to the side of the road and called aaa road service. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic who diagnosed and replaced the radiator, compressor, and belt. The contact drove the vehicle home, but the vehicle failed to start the following day. The battery was replaced by aaa road service. Seven days later, while driving approximately 40 MPH, the engine stalled. The vehicle was pulled over to the side of the road and towed to the contact's residence. The dealer was contacted (ocean honda in santa cruz, ca, 831‑661‑8693) and the technician advised the contact to trade in the vehicle for a new one. The contact purchased a new vehicle instead. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failures. The failure mileage was approximately 118,000.
Hot sunny and humid day heading to work when turning on the air conditioning it blows warm to hot air as the car is already warm from the sun it doesnt blow cold air and if it does its rarely and wont last long. I have seen a lawsuit was filed and settled but my year of the car wasnt mentioned but seems to be more than just mine as well. Just purchased october 2016
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda cr-v. While the vehicle was parked, all four of the doors locked and could not be re-opened electronically or manually. The vehicle's hood and trunk also could not be opened. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. An independent used car dealer was contacted and stated that the issue occurred with many honda vehicles, but the failure could not be diagnosed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. There were no recalls related to the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
While traveling a very busy interstate on a holiday, my battery cable came off (erosion). This happened while going slow due to a normal traffic slowdown. I was in the middle lane of a 5-lane freeway. After my car stopped, traffic backed up as far as the eye could see. I had no electrics and, as a result, I could not get out of my car, open a window, turn on emergency flashers, or use the manual door locks. If the car had caught fire, I had no way to get out. Breaking a window from inside, without a tool for that use, is beyond my abilities. With a slightly different set of circumstances, my life could have been in danger. I think the inability to exit my car is a very serious safety problem. It was very warm and the car quickly heated up. Traffic backed up as far as the eye could see. A few people stopped to help and ended up getting very angry with me. "stupid" and "idiot" were the names they used for me because they could not understand why I would not manually open the door. I hope this complaint results in a reply. Thank you
Both the brake and vehicle stability assist (vsa) warning lights are lit up on instrument panel, even when parking brake is not engaged and vsa not being used. Especially in cold weather (below 40) these warning lights turn on when the car is running; but sometimes also in warmer weather (below mid 50s). Issue just started nov. 2016, so not sure if lights will go on in warm weather. Dealer could not correct. There was no accident preceding the faulty warning lights.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda cr-v. The contact stated that the power liftgate and rear driver's side interior and exterior door locks failed to operate with the key fob. The contact mentioned that the two faulty power doors locks only unlatched manually. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it continued to remain for eleven consecutive weeks. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable.
My complaint is the same as the one that owners of any 2007-2009 honda cr-v had to put up with: door lock actuator failure. Driver's side rear door failed to unlock. Will only unlock manually, is not responsive whatsoever to the key fob, or the lock/unlock button inside of the vehicle. The tailgate also will not unlock by any means, which poses a serious safety hazard to the vehicle. I am asking for an extension of the door lock actuator recall from 2007-2009. Who is to say that once I replace this costly part for $350, that I will not have to then replace any of the existing 3? There are multiple reports online of 2010 cr-v owners having the same issue and the recall should be extended to encompass the 2010 cr-v vehicles.
Tl* takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 honda cr-v. The VIN was included in the federal safety agency campaign number: 16v061000 (air bags). The contact stated that neither the federal safety agency nor honda were doing anything to expedite the recall repair. The contact was offered a loaner vehicle by honda, but it was up to the contact whether or not to pay for the insurance. The manufacturer was notified. The contact was informed that it would take up to eight weeks to receive the parts. The contact had not experienced a failure. Updated 06/29/16*lj the consumer also stated the battery had to be replaced, after three months of driving. . Updated 06/30/16.
Drivers side door actuator failed, could not unlock or lock doors, very scary. Could not figure out why I could not get out of car. The door lock actuator failed. Also passenger door lock actuator failed as well. This was really scary that honda has a class action lawsuit that was settled but did not include 2010 cr-v. Had to get this fixed as it is an extreme safety concern that honda did not want to include fixing this issue in there settlement and now maybe the federal safety agency might look into this this is a safety issue.
Driver side door actuator is malfunctioning. Unable to lock door with key fob, have to manually lock it. Class action lawsuit was for the 2007 and 2008 model, however the company is still using the defect part in newer models. Waiting for the other door to malfunction and if it persist it might cause a fire in the door. Big safety concern, guess the government will wait until someone dies before recalling this problem. This is a known problems for the crvs, look at the class action lawsuit.
Driving into 2 car garage located on circular 1 way street. Garage angled opposite way. Have to make a u turn and have car fully braked to enter garage. Park on left hand side; car completely stopped and was going to change from drive to park. Car revved up and headed toward right side of garage and crashed into house wall. Took out 8" of wall and destroyed part of foundation & wall. Fire dept. & ems called. I have preexisting conditions including cervical fusions, spondylothesis, artifical knee. Both knees hit dashboard. After air bag popped, I looked to see my foot was still on brake. Car totaled.
Vehicle was rear-ended by a faster vehicle. The impact forced the transmission into "park," which automatically locked the doors, trapping any occupants. Had there been a fire or water submergence situation, there could be unnecessary injury or even death. Vehicle door locks need to be re-designed to let occupants escape in an emergency.
Year after having the car I had to replace the interia light 3 times. I also had to replace the brake lights, and the tag light. When taking it dealer they said it was ok. The dash lights for the ABS and slide control comes on when backing up and stays on until I restart. The dealer said it is ok as long as it does not stay on.
The power locks are not working properly. I first noticed that the locks would cycle locked and unlocked after I had the car for about a year. It would happen randomly but while I was driving. Within the last six months, I couldn't get the car to open using the button on the key, I have to use the key in the driver's side door and, once inside the car, reach over to the door that I want to open to manually open it with my hand. The trunk will open if I cycle the driver's side door electric lock/unlock button several times. When I am driving the doors will cycle locked/unlocked until I move the manual indicator several times. I am seeing a problem where all of the doors at one time or another have been in the opposite position than the other three doors, so it is a problem with all of the doors. I'm seeing a lot of complaints about this problem and even a lawsuit online. I spoke to honda today at 800‑999‑1009 and said there was nothing they could do since the car is out of warranty (it's 4 years old with about 60k miles on it). It seems like this is a bigger problem for many models of honda vehicles.
Driver-side power door lock in my 2010 honda cr-v ex-l periodically stops responding to both the interior lock button and the remote key fob button. This could potentially create a dangerous situation where the driver unintentionally opens the door while the vehicle is in motion by pulling the lever from the inside, while under the assumption that the door has been locked. Note that in honda models, pulling the interior release lever while the door is locked should prevent the door from being opened altogether. This problem could mislead the driver into thinking that all doors have been locked while, in fact, they have not; this also creates a security issue because the door can be opened from the outside as well. Another related problem is the potential for the driver to unintentionally leave the vehicle with an unlocked door, even after pressing the lock button on the remote key fob, which increases the probability of theft and break-ins. A quick internet search reveals many user complaints about power door lock problems in this generation of cr-v, showing a clear pattern of problems with the 2007 - 2011 cr-v. Honda should address this immediately by issuing a recall and warranty extension.
Pull into my garage, applied brake, brake went to the floor and accelerate at the same time. Hit my garage wall causing damage to the wall and car. Turn of car. Drove the car next day, every thing was ok. Check out the brakes on my long drive way, every thing seem ok. When over to a friends house, monday, again same thing happen, went thru a gasoline station, and the electronic stability controls accelerated, was finally able to stop it, when the brakes return to normal. When we were leaving our friends house, the battery was dead. Had to jump start, every thing was ok driving home. Trying to set up a appointment at the honda dealer today.
My 2010 crv sometimes doesn't start the first time. This happened more frequently over the last 6 months. What happens is when starting the car there will be a "click sound" but not the sound of the starter.....turn the key to the off position and try again and the car starts normally. Always starts normally on the second try. What I heard was a clear buzzing sound coming right from the steering column, near the ignition switch when the key was turned to the start position. No sounds from the engine at all. The sound was like an electrical buzz. After turning the key on and off three times, then the car started normally with no buzzing coming from the steering column. In searching the web, there are other crvs that report the same thing--abnormal sound at first start and then perfectly normal starts on the second try. This is the third time I took my crv to honda dealer for the same problem. First time, battery was replaces. Second time, relay was replaced. No problem fixed.
Gears began to crunch and the car began to shake. Slowed down at a light and lost the power steering. Pulled over and the engine stalled. Could not re-start for 10 minutes. Engine then re-started, traveled approx. 10 meters and stalled. Re-started again - no further problems. 2 similar occurrences, 2 months apart. For the first event, the car went off the road. On each occasion the dealership stated they had checked everything and there was nothing wrong with the car. Took it for a second opinion. Dealership had not checked recall 11-001 (january, 2011). They checked it, but again found no issue.
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