Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2011 Honda CR-V. The contact discovered a mileage discrepancy after the purchase. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the mileage was 106,000. It was later discovered upon checking a Carfax Report that the mileage was 206,086.
2011 Honda CR-V electrical problems
55 complaints (10% of all complaints for this car). Typical mileage when it fails: 57,000. 1 crash reported.
- owner complaints
- 55
- of this car's complaints
- 10%
- typical mileage
- 57,000
- crashes
- 1
- recalls
- 0
Which part fails
- Instrument panel: speedometer/odometer1
At what mileage
Complaints by mileage at the time of the problem.
Honda CR-V electrical problems in other years
Specific symptoms reported on the 2011 Honda CR-V electrical
Phrases found in the owners' own descriptions, so one complaint can mention several symptoms.
Related recalls
No recalls on record for this model year.
What 2011 Honda CR-V owners say
Most recent owner complaints, unedited.
DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. It is constantly malfunctioning. You are driving with small kids, and the doors keep unlocking and locking as the vehicle is in motion. I am very concerned, especially with children inside. It gets to a point that it sounds like a machine gun while you are driving, so, if you forget about it, suddenly you hear the loud noise and you think there is a drive by shooting nearby. There was a class action lawsuit regarding this a few years ago and a recall on this part. Today I locked my car after I parked and went into my house, suddenly I heard this horn noise on and off by itself without touching the key or the fob. I find this extremely dangerous. Let's say you get trapped inside your car and suddenly you cannot get out. I looked a little dipper and found out that Honda did not want to fix this issue. This is unacceptable and very unfair. Is there something someone can do to remediate it?
The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle stalled with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to restart. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that a wiring harness had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 170,000.
I'm driving along and the car door locks don't recognize that there already locked. They keep going off. The car is shut off and the door locks keep going off and the dom light keeps coming on every time the doors lock even though they are already locked. I couldn't get out of my car the other day because of this. I know now why someone sold it to the dealer ship. I've had the car a couple of months and I'm ready to sell it. I don't feel safe. Also the navigation date will not stay on the current day of 2024. It keeps rebooting back to Feb 2005. I bought it July 25, 2024 for $14,835. Apparently, I'm not the only car out there that has this problem. Why is this not being fixed. It is a SAFETY HAZARD TO GET LOCKED IN YOUR VEHICLE AND CANT GET OUT. I HAD TO CALL ROAD SIDE ASST. This is unacceptable when I pay this kind of money for a vehicle.
Sporadically the passenger rear door and trunk will lock (then unlock randomly) and there’s no getting them unlocked using the fob nor using the unlock button. The door simply has to unlock itself and the only way to get the trunk opened (till it decides to unlock itself) is to crawl thru the backseat and pull the inside lever.
It seems all door locks are buzzing and have difficulty opening/closing. It happens during unlocking and locking of doors using either the remote key or regular key. Also makes buzzing noise when running the 1st 0-10mph (from most full stop). It seems to happen more often on the driver and right passenger doors. Bought this used car in mid-2023.
My driver door and my back hatchback door would not open or unlock. I tried the actual key in the drivers door would not open and I tried two different remotes & neither would open the driver door or the back hatchback. I’m having to replace the actuator in both doors at this time!
Faulty actuator in front passenger door, door remains locked shut and as a result the hatch is also locked shut due to connection between doors. Honda has quoted me $900 to repair including needing to destroy interior panel and pay to replace part due to issue that was recalled in 2007-09 CR-V's. Approximately mileage is 160,000.
The doors are automatically locking at 9 MPH while driving - when you initially pull out and meet the speed of 9 MPH AND then every time thereafter your speed is 9 MPH the doors will all lock. Passenger door and now rear hatch door does not unlock using the key remote OR the inside button to unlock. Currently all other doors are working.
Actuator that controls locks has gone out twice in 3 years. It is approximately $500 to replace. Vehicle randomly locks itself over and over when powered on or off. Sometimes power locks will not unlock any doors including the hatch.
Questions about the 2011 Honda CR-V electrical
Does the 2011 Honda CR-V have electrical problems?
Owners have filed 55 complaints about the electrical of the 2011 Honda CR-V, 10% of all its complaints.
At what mileage do 2011 Honda CR-V electrical problems start?
The typical (median) mileage in owner complaints is 57,000 miles.
Was there a recall on the 2011 Honda CR-V electrical?
There is no recall for this problem on this model year.
What year does the Honda CR-V have the most electrical problems?
The Honda CR-V model years with the most electrical complaints are 2017 (403 complaints), 2018 (286 complaints) and 2007 (264 complaints).
Other 2011 Honda CR-V problems
Airbags 295Body 45Engine 43Suspension 20Acceleration 19Brakes 19Transmission 14Wheels 14Tires 12Locks 10Steering 10Visibility 10Fuel system 8Driver assistance 6Seats 6Seat belts 4Lights 3
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