City driving; there was the usual amount of "stop and go". As I was sitting at a red light, I noticed some smoke/steam coming from somewhere outside my car. I distinctly remember looking at my temperature gauge to see if it was running hot; but it was still in the normal range. I assumed it was coming from another vehicle around me. The next time I stopped at a red light, I saw the smoke/steam again; this time I noticed the distinct "sweet" smell associated to a vehicle overheating. My temp gauge was still registering as normal, but it was clear it was coming from my vehicle. I turned the heat on until I was able to pull into the next available parking lot to turn off my car and let it sit for a few minutes. After restarting it, the temp gauge registered as normal again, so I drove off. Shortly after, the temp gauge started to register the engine was overheating and smoke/steam was coming from under the hood. Just as I was pulling into another parking lot, the temp gauge spiked. After I parked and let the engine cool a bit, I opened the hood and it was clear that a hose or something had burst; there was coolant spewed everywhere and I saw a small hole in one of the hoses. I had it towed to the nearest dealership; after looking at it, they said the engine would need to be replaced because some oil/fluid had backed up into it, apparently at some point during that ordeal. I believe one of two things to be the cause: either the temp gauge/component failed, therefore not notifying me of the engine overheating; or the engine was faulty. My "check engine" light was not on, and did not come on until after the temp gauge spiked. This issue cost me a total of nearly $6000 in repairs, including a new engine and the component that "talks" to the temp gauge. When this happened, the vehicle was less than 4 years old; I bought it used and had less than 2 years.
2011 Hyundai Elantra engine complaints
Page 4 of 4: complaints 71 to 97 of 97, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Check engine light went off and was taken in for a diagnostic reading. 2011 hyundai elantra at 56,000 miles was showing signs of engine failure. After more research the mechanic stated the due to a defect in the way the oil lubricate the engine apparently was not filtering fast enough. Mechanic happened to mention she previously worked for hyundai and was seeing more and more vehicles come in for this and had stop covering the repairs. Problem is also seen in the hyundai sonatas which hyundai is starting to own to that.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 hyundai elantra. While driving approximately 25 MPH, the vehicle jerked and lost speed. The contact pulled the vehicle over to the shoulder of the road and the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The contact continued to drive the vehicle. When the vehicle reached 45 MPH, it began to jerk hard. The dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 79,000.
February 26th, 2016 around 3pm my car stopped while driving on the road. I was not able to press the brake so I put the car in neutral and had to wait until the car stopped on its own. After the car stopped I tried to start the car and the engine would not turn over. There was no noise from the engine when the car died on the road.
The engine has been making a knocking noise but no one could find a problem. Car cut off a few times while driving in stop and go trafic the check engine light came on and the code stated problem with crankshaft. Went to start the car a couple of days later. Car would not start horrible knocking noise came from engine. Car turned over but would not start. Mechanic had to replace crankshaft sensor, timing chain, crankshaft problems. Have had car back a little over a month now the engine is making the same noise again and the check engine light has come back on. Have read the engine recall for the hyundai sonatas and sounds very similar to what my car is doing. The car has 115,000 miles on it and problems started around the 113-114,000 mark right after the warrenty had expired. .
Knocking noise coming from crankshaft and engine
The hyundai elantra has an intermittent starting problem. This problem is hard to duplicate. The solution requires various attempts at trying the start switch along with the movement of shift lever. This becomes a safety problem since it requires numerous attempts to move shift lever from park to neutral position. When attempting to start vehicle after a number of times the power brakes take extreme pressure to control the vehicle from moving. At times, the shift lever will not move properly out of the park position and still not start. This has happened numerous times. The local hyundai service warned me if problem cannot be duplicated owners are responsible for diagnostic and service costs that would likely be $200 or more. On one occasion the car was parked in my garage for about a week along with daily attempts at trying to start the car did not start the engine. Finally it started and did not have problems during the complete summer, but once the temperature has been below 40-50 degrees f problems occurred. I am very leery at allowing other family members to operate vehicle since some may have difficulty in applying the large amount of braking force to stop vehicle from moving on an incline when attempting to start vehicle. I reviewed the service bulletin no.: tsb-12-at-022-1 on hyundai elantra and kia recall the federal safety agency campaign number: 13v114000 . Note many kias and hyundai vehicles are similar in parts and function. After reading the federal safety agency campaign number: 13v114000 about kia, I did recall incidents of intermittent failing of brake lights and intermittent ESC light malfunction.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 hyundai elantra. The contact stated that the brakes had been leaking fluid out of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was repaired and the fluid was replaced. The failure recurred and the vehicle was taken back to the dealer. The brake line was diagnosed as the cause of the failure and replaced. The failure recurred and the brake pedal traveled to the floorboard. The vehicle would not start and was taken to the dealer again where the brake control unit was replaced. After driving approximately 35 MPH, flames appeared from the exhaust. The contact stated the vehicle was pulled to side of the road and restarted and smoke began to flow from the exhaust and engine. The brake warning indicator illuminated during the first two failures and, during the last two failures, all the warning indicators illuminated. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 51,000.
When driving it is difficult at time to regulate my speed. If I stop at a red light and then try to drive on a green light my car will jolt forward. It is hard to speed up, it feels like my car is stuck in on speed. It makes it difficult to drive on the freeway as it is slow to pick up speed.
Car will not start. Have battery, alternator, and started all tested and are good. Every so often go to start the car and when you turn the key to first position everything turns on. Windows work, radio works, light on dash turn on. Go to start the car and it does nothing. Does not even try to start the starter makes no noise. You just here a clicking noise. Was told be dealer that it might be inhibitor switch (range switch), that was replaced and a week later it again will not try to start. If you let it sit and come back a day later many time it will crank right over. There are many forums online with the same issue from this model.
My vehicle will not start. It happens on numerous occassions and I have to try several attempts before my vehicle will start. I took the car in to be check and everything tested fine. No lights on the dashboard indicated an error and no codes could be detected. Not sure what is going on but I have a infant child and I cannot be somewhere or trying to go somewhere especially if there is an emergency with my child and my vehicle refuses to start and yet all the lights come on howeever my engine would not start upon turning my key while in the ignition. Please fix because I saw on youtube and other forums of this same complaint and I am sure hyundai is aware of these complaints but are failing to do something and this can become a major safety concern. Please address!!! 2011 hyundai elantra
Problem starting car. Usually have to try 2 times before it will start. Tried today 4/29/15 and would not start and check engine light came on., had no problem the day before with car starting.
When I start the engine it makes a very loud rattling noise and when I drive and I push on gas it is rattles. It sounds more like grinding loud noise too. Motor knocks when you start it up and now for the last week when I start it the car will sputter and then shot off. Sometimes will take many times for it to even start. It will RPM very high even when I am not moving. I have had alot of problems with this car now bc of the issues I am using more gas. I have a little under 80 thousand miles on it and it will leave me set. Wondering if anyone knows of any recalls on this stuff or know what could be wrong with it and if hyundai still does life time warranty... Thanks
I bought my hyundai elantra new in 2011 since owning the vehicle it's been a nightmare and I get very little if any help from the local hyundai dealer. I have had numerous issues with the vehicle not starting (car is silent when I turn the key in the ignition, car cranks but won't turn over, engine starts but dies, car dies without any reason). I've brought up complaints and concerns to the local dealership but they are never of any help. I recently had to have the starter replaced but it was only replaced because my car one day wouldn't start at all. Since the replacement I am still met with my car not starting at least once a week if not more. Yesterday my sun roof would not close completely, it retracts a few inches from closing, this is not new to me, multiple intermittent electrical issues, such as is occurring now - the sun roof retracting on its own without any visible reason. Or when the gear shift is put in park/reverse, etc. Sunroof will take on a mind of its own. I'm fed up with this lemon of a car and as I see from all the other complaints online about starting issues hyundai needs to do something about it - figure out the reason why and let us consumers know.
The car won't start after several attempts. This has been a recurring incident for the last several months. When it has happened I was left stranded and I had to get a tow truck in several occasions. The irony is that after the tow truck delivers the car to the destination the car will start normally. This issue is driving me crazy. I also took the car to the dealer several times and they never seem to find any problems. There are no error codes and they can't reproduce. After doing some research in the web, I see several reported cases like mine and with similar diagnostics and outcome. It seems it is related to the inhibitor switch or range switch and it has been reported on several hyundai models like elantra, sonata, veloster, etc... The manufacturer should have a recall on this issue and fix it immediately. I will never buy another one of these korean cars again. The service is awful.
Car would not start. Checked all connections, battery was fine. Consulted internet, many complaints mentioned a faulty "range switch". Hyundai should recall. Clicking noise when turning right. Car was at dealership on 1/9/14 at 40,285 miles. Issue was not resolved. Took car in again to dealership 3/4/2014 at 41,775 miles. Steering column was replaced under warranty. Issue was not resolved as ongoing clicking noise persists to present.
All the dash lights go on and engine will not turn over. It has happened three times. First time it finally turned over on third try; second time had it towed to dealer and when they went to work on it, it started. Third time it wouldn't start and in desperation I tried to move steering wheel and gear shifter and next try it started.
Engine runs rough at idle .. Buy 89 octane gas in the winter time. Drive shaft is defective.....buy a new bearing and drive shaft from the dealer and make certain the new one is not defective. I replaced the bearing only and it appears to be fine, for now. .......tires wear out extremely fast....buy new shocks and struts earlier than you had to on the more expensive foreign cars.
My hyundai elantra has had several issues since purchasing it march 09, 2013. Chief complaints are my vehicle will not start. Took it to dealership and they informed me to pop off the shift lock button on gear shaft and my car started. Took it to the dealer for further evaluation and was informed it was a relay switch, which was not covered under my warranty. Paid $260.00 to have this part fixed and my car still has problems starting. I have been stranded several times and unable to start my vehicle. Second complaint is my car is not getting the gas mileage it is supposed to. Spoke to the dealership about this issue as well. They informed me to only use shell gasoline. I still do not receive the gas mileage I was promised upon purchasing this vehicle. I did some research and have found that I am not the only person that has encountered either one of these issues.
Front of elantra traveling at 40 MPH hit another car entering 4 lane on the drivers side.(t-boned") the car was declared a total loss. None of the head , front or seat airbags deployed.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 hyundai elantra. The contact stated that while stopped with the brake pedal depressed and the gear secured in drive, the vehicle lurched forward but would not accelerate. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnosis. The technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 19,000.
When turning left at a busy intersection, the car stalled. I could not accelerate at all. The airconditioning was still running and the car was otherwise on but it completely stalled. I had to turn the engine off and turn it back on in order for the car to accelerate. I was able to drive it approximately 20 feet and the car stalled again with all the same characteristics as before. No check engine light came on.
I was turning from gas station onto road, crossing 3 lanes of traffic when vehicle stalled in the middle of the road and I was nearly broad-sided. All dash lights came on, and AC and radio were on, but engine had stalled. After calling hyundai USA I took vehicle to dealership, reported as stalling at low speed and rough idle. Hyundai USA representative said no problems like this reported. Also service adviser reported never hearing of the problem when took into dealership, despite numerous reports I had printed off the internet. In fact said "we don't acknowledge internet reports as being valid".
2011 hyundai elantra. Lawyer writes regarding notice of claim under the lemon law on behalf of clients *tgw the consumer took the vehicle to the dealer for a routine oil change. When the consumer returned to retrieve the vehicle, the dealer informed him, they damaged the vehicle and it would not start. The problem was determined to be the ECM. Three months later, the dashboard warning lights would blink off and on randomly. As a result, there was no way for the consumer to know if the oil pressure, RPM's, tire pressure or engine temperature were within safe limits. The cruise control and miles per gallon did not work either. Also, there was no way to tell if the ABS was working. The problem seemed to be the ECM once again. When the consumer retrieved the vehicle again, from a different dealer, he was informed that the wrong computer module had been installed in the vehicle. Apparently, the computer for a vehicle with an automatic transmission was installed; when the vehicle had a manual transmission. Once the consumer left the dealership, the warning lights malfunctioned again. The vehicle was returned to the dealer again.
At my next scheduled service (6k), I am going to mention this while my car is at the dealer, but it's happened quite a few times since I bought my 2011 hyundai elantra in april. I live in florida, and as it's summer I've been using my brand new A/C quite a lot. However, when it is on and I am at a stoplight (only at a stoplight or waiting at idle with the car in drive), whenever the compressor cycles on/off, my car will slowly move forward (and brake pedal sinks a little). I have to push on the brakes even harder to keep the car from moving. There have been a few times when I've almost hit the car in front of me. The pedal only sinks an inch or two and it only happens when the A/C compressor cycles. This does not happen everyday or at every stop light, but it happens at least twice a week during my work commute, and I figured it's worth mentioning.
Engine cut off when making a turn.
The 2011 hyundai elantra 1.8liter engine makes a grinding then whining noise in the first few seconds of the first cold engine start of the day. On the day of sales delivery the vehicle made this noise for at least two minutes which prompted me to alert the salesman and lift the hood for closer inspection. The sales man replied "all the new engines make this sound, it will quiet down." I have asked another owner of the same vehicle if they noticed it. They have the same exact problem upon cold start up. We both have video documentation of the issue which can be viewed on you tube by searching for 2011 hyundai elantra engine noise.
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