Was driving my car noticed that it was running a little rough and took it in for an oil change thinking maybe it was being a little weird because of that. I religious have my oil changed routinely. The gentleman changing my oil told me there was oil in the engine. Went to Hyundai and they did a diagnostics and told me that something had come off in the engine and clocked the oil gallery not allowing oil to flow through engine and power train. Was told it would be a $9000 engine replacement. I only have 93000 thousand miles on it still owe 3000 on it. Hyundai knows that their engines have been having issues. Salesman at Hyundai was trying to force me to buy a new car because of this issue. he was only going to give me 2500 on my car but told me if it had been in perfect condition then he would've 6000. This is not something I did to my engine it was something that came off in the engine and blocked the flow of oil
2017 Hyundai Elantra transmission complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 62, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Our Hyundai Elantra Se 2017, engine blown. Started with knocking sound and when we stopped on the side of the highway it powered down. We have been told that unfortunately so many of hyundai's vehicle engines have been super problematic within the last decade. We were stranded on vacation. Had to pay for towing twice and a rental car to get back to North Carolina because we had to get back to work. We also have had to pay to diagnose the vehicle twice. We had the issue diagnosed with an independent service center Tuffys Auto in St. Johns Florida and now it currently is at Hyundai in St. Augustine. We have been without our vehicle for over a month and with the trending problems with these engines we shouldnt have to come out of pocket to fix it. Hyundai corporate has not been helpful at all even though we have had a case manager for over a month and they havent given us any info.
I'm having issues with my car and I don't feel safe riding in it. While driving it start to coast. If I make a turn it shuts down. I am having some of the same issues some elantra having but because the VIN# doesn't show a recall I'm penalize for having this car.
For the past two weeks, the car has intermittently stalled out and the engine, oil, and battery lights come on. The dashboard electronics and radio stay on. When this happens, I have to put the car in park and turn it off, then turn it back on. It has restarted immediately each time and drives normally. It has stalled out multiple times in a day, but not everyday. I took it to my mechanic twice to pull an error code from the warning lights, but he could not. My safety and the safety of others were put at risk when it stalled out while I was deaccelerating on an exit ramp that merges with three other lanes. I could have been hit from behind by others exiting the interstate highway or hit on either side of my car from drivers switching lanes at that junction. It stalled out the same day in the middle of a roundabout, where drivers yield and merge at 30 mph. I've noticed that when it stalls out, I'm usually braking or the vehicle is turning. The car is currently at the mechanic, who has not yet been able to reproduce the stalling and warning lights, but he did pull a diagnostic trouble code: P010600; Description: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. He's not sure if it's a faulty sensor or if something is causing the trouble code since the warning lights weren't on with the code. The car has not yet been inspected by the dealership or others.
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The contact was able to pull to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be restarted. After restarting the vehicle, the vehicle returned to normal functionality, but the failure became a regular occurrence. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 95,000.
My vehicle keeps shutting down while I’m driving. It happened 5 times in the past week and twice today. It happens when I’m driving slow to make a turn or after the car has been stopped for a while (i.g. stop light and drive through window). Three out of five times were in areas where I could safely restart my car. The other two were in the middle of a busy expressway while making a turn and passing through a busy intersection. I was almost hit from behind. The car that swerved to avoid hitting me was also nearly hit by a vehicle in the other lane. I’ve done research and several other people had this issue but there’s no recall on my car. I don’t know if it’s a battery issue or electrical wiring, etc., but it is terrifying. Each time it happens my vehicle makes a strange rattling nose and I can’t quite tell where it’s coming from. The car also shakes for a while afterwards.
when driving (typically at a low speed) the engine will shut off with no warning.
The engine is making weird noises and the vehicle is stalling and is not accelerating. If am trying to accelerate the crank shaft noise is coming from the engine. Koi
Car would just stall out while driving! Would have to put car in park and then try to turn back on. Also burning through oil very fast. Had to replace the timing belt just for 20K miles later having the same issue!
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated upon coming to a complete stop, the vehicle accelerated unintendedly over a concrete bar and drove up a hill. The contact depressed the brake pedal but to no avail. The contact steered the vehicle to the right direction to avoid entering a pool. She then crashed into multiple objects including trees, concrete parking bars, and multiple vehicles before coming to a stop. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact was taken to the hospital by ambulance and was treated for injuries to her neck and back. A police report was filed. Due to the failure, the vehicle was towed to an independent tow yard where it was destroyed. Parking barriers and trees were damaged as a result of the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 25,000.
Have had the vehicle throw a code for a misfire 4 times in the 30,000 miles I have driven it. The times I have taken it to Hyundai dealerships in Northglenn and Boulder, Colorado they tried an update and just swap ignition coils to different cylinders. Example misfire is cylinder 3. They swap number 3 and 4 ignition coils to see if they can recreate the problem I the new cylinder. There is already a TCS 20-FL-001h. I recommend a full recall of these defective ignition coils be put out as the problems are still occurring. The problem is reoccurring and the time it takes to get into the shop is 3 weeks out at this time. By the time I get it in the code usually resolves and I have to wait until I get violent shakes and poor acceleration to indicate it is back. Had an accident in January if 2023 and it seemed the brakes were t working as they should. Twice after that the brakes felt as if they weren’t stopping as well as they should. I took the vehicle in and had the rear drum brakes adjusted and that seemed to fix the problem.
I’ve been having problems with my timing chain and power train for over a year. Got the timing chain fixed and now all i’m seeing is new problems with bad ignition coils and spark plugs and transmission problems. I’ve only had this car for 4 years and keep the maintenance up to date.
Engine has about 84,000 miles on it and car recently through a code reading E78 and E79. Further research on the codes other Kia and Hyundai owners reported car threw same codes before the engine blew or threw the engine rod. I will have car checked out at dealership as it’s still under warranty
I am the owner of a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. I bought the car for my daughter for transportation to and from school and work. As her boyfriend was driving on a 3-lane highway in heavy traffic, the car would no longer accelerate, and the steering wheel locked. The engine just stopped and seized up. The car lost all power and steering capability. He rolled the car into the left-hand turn lane. A police officer pulled up about 30 seconds later, said that he was obstructing traffic, and to move the car out of the turn lane. Her boyfriend had to push the car across the median, and 3 lanes of traffic, to get to the opposite side of the highway's shoulder, by himself. When he nearly had the car off of the road, on the opposite side of the highway, a pedestrian approached and helped him finish pushing it out of the road. This could have caused a major car accident, or someone could've been killed or injured while pushing the car. I have moved one hour away from my daughter, so I cannot provide her with a ride to and from school and work. She and I are stuck paying $301.18/mo on a car that is inoperable; it's just sitting and rotting at her apartment complex. We are also stuck paying $135.87/mo for her car insurance on a car that is inoperable. Also, this model year, 2017, has a problem with peeling paint too. The car has missing paint patches all over. Previously, at just 51,000 miles, the car had stalling problems. The car would just shut off while driving. It was repaired at Hyundai. When we got it back, it was still doing the same thing, and had to go back in again for service at Hyundai. I filed a formal complaint with Hyundai Consumer Affairs. Hyundai should have already issued recalls for these problems that many people are experiencing. I've been doing research and have found that this year and model Hyundai is very problematic. They are refusing to take responsibility by not issuing recalls on these recurrent problems that they're aware of.
UNKNOWN. Battery died out on my twice, every two years. Motor needed to be replaced after 5 years.
My car stalled twice while driving on my way to work and had a weird knocking sound. I brought this to my local mechanic and they believed it was Rod Knock cause by premature rod bearing failure. They said this is a common issue with Hyundai 2.0L 4 cylinder engines and told me to reach out to a Hyundai dealership. The first dealer I called said if it was the rod bearing it would be covered under an extended warranty. That dealership couldn’t get me in for 3-4 weeks so I called the dealership I purchased the car new at. They said the same thing that it was a common issue with the 2.0 4 cylinder engines and said they could get me in in less than a week. I paid to have my car towed to them on Friday and they called me this morning confirming that it is a worn rod bearing and informed me I would need a new engine. They said that my specific VIN is not covered by their extended warranty covering this specific issue. It is my understanding that specific models using the same engine are covered but for some reason mine is not. I just spent over $2000 on the engine with issues that they said they wouldn’t cover and now they want me to pay them over $7000 to replace the engine on an issue they are aware of in this 2.0l engine they manufactured. Please help me to rectify this issue with my car. I cannot afford $7000+ for a new engine and I certainly cannot afford a new car. This car is less than 6 years old and I would have expected power train to last significantly longer.
Started having intermittent misfires on various cylinders, specifically cylinder 3. (Code P0303) This would mainly cause the engine to stall, or idle. No accidents or injuries to report, but having a car stall out at 80 MPH on the freeway is certainly scary as hell. Just frustration and possible damage to other parts of the engine (spark plugs and some wiring). Took vehicle into local auto shop where they reproduced the problem, but informed me of TSB 20-FL-001H, which can only be fixed by a Hyundai dealership due to the ECM reprogramming and the proprietary nature of the tool to perform that. As such I have taken the vehicle to a Hyundai Dealership where, again, they were able to find and diagnose the problem, as well as determine the spark plugs were likely fouled by the known-faulty ignition coil packs. This is the third time in 75,000 miles I've replaced them.
Bad Ignition Colis Poor Fuel Economy: if you notice that your car is getting less mileage from a full tank than normal, this could mean that you have a bad ignition coil. This takes place because, when your, spark plugs aren’t getting a certain power, the system will try to compensate by taking more fuel. Hard Starts And Stalling: the ignition needs to spark at just the right time for the engine to start and a vehicle to run. If an ignition coil is malfunctioning and not delivering the required voltage to the spark plugs, you will find it hard to start the engine. Misfiring Engine: A malfunctioning ignition coil will cause your vehicle to misfire when you accelerate. In some other cases, a misfire could cause your vehicle to shut down while you are driving
This is just to inform the issue that I faced with my car, Hyundai Elantra 2017. The incident happened twice. I was driving once on an interstate, luckily was driving very slow (due to traffic), when I accelerated a from a halt position the car started to jerk and the engine light came up and the car stopped. I then took the car on the shoulder and turned on the car after 5minutes, luckily the light went away and was able to drive back home slowly and safely without any problem then. Thought it's just a one off situation. This again happened when I was driving in the city; Stopped at a signal and was starting from stop position on a signal when the engine light shows up again and car started to jerk again, with that on I slowly drove 1 mile back to home. The next working day I took it to the dealership to get the car checked. The service center said that they will have to replace 4 spark plugs, 4 Coils, and the driver belt. I got that replaced and got the car back finally after 2 weeks. It was disappointing to hear that warranty didn't cover anything. My car is 5.5 years old and 61,000 miles only and the dealership and Hyundai USA declined the request to cover any of the charges saying it's out of warranty. (i.e. just 1000 miles outside the limit of 60K and 6 months outside the window of 5years). Today I just wanted to share the experience that I had and that just at 61000 miles, it gave what seemed to be a big problem with the powertrain and at that time felt unsafe to drive.
1) The transmission has a delay in shifting, and I smell burning under the hood. I took it back to the dealer where I bought it. I was told nothing was wrong with it. The problem has been coming back. The dealership was Dennis Hyuandai on Morse Rd in Cols. Oh. 43219 2) I am afraid I may have this problem on the highway some day, as it has become more frequent. 3) Dealer claims nothing wrong with the transmission. 4) No I didn't know I had this opption. 5) No none. It has been and on and off problem for nearly 2yrs
Engine idles rough, shifts rough, idles high, stalls, and sometimes just simply won't run. CEL came on when it was time for an oil change/service, had oil and filter changed at Express Lube, and had them run a diagnostic on the CEL to make sure it was for the oil change, it was code P0017 cam/crankshaft. They cleared the code to be sure it wasn't just a glitch, CEL came right back on not even 50 miles down the road, and the car stalled in the middle of traffic, barely made it out of harms way with my two children in the car! I bought this car in October 2021, made my first payment in December 2021 and the CEL came on originally in January 2022. After spending the money to have it diagnosed further by my Hyundai Dealer where I purchased the car, the technician confirmed the P0017 code and also that it is a timing chain issue and that it's recommended to just replace the entire motor! The car is barely 4 years old, not even 100k miles, and I am only the SECOND owner! How does this just happen to such a new car with lower mileage that has a good maintenance history just all of a sudden needs a new motor? I can't afford to keep making high payments on an unsafe vehicle. I have searched through the complaints about this specific model and have found several identical cases related to the P0017 code which tells me this is a reoccurring malfunction from Hyundai and they need to own that responsibility before a class action lawsuit is filed. CEL came on at approximately 95K miles which would qualify for the powertrain warranty but since I am the second owner the warranty is no good. Someone help please!!
Check engine light on with diagnostic error code P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected ignition coil
According to the Hyundai Dealership, located in Corona, CA, the Hyundai Elantra's are known for the ignition coil to go out. This is also not covered under warranty and list below of why it should be: This can cause Engine misfiring in a vehicle whose ignition coils have failed. Trying to start the engine of such a vehicle will result in engine misfiring that sounds like a coughing, sputtering noise. When driving at high speeds, jerking and spitting will be seen in the behavior of the vehicle. A vehicle with a failed ignition coil will also result in vibration when it is idling at a stop sign or light. Driving with a faulty coil pack can damage other components of the engine. Also most cars will register a faulty coil and immediately stop gas feed to that cylinder. However, damage may be caused if the fault isn’t registered by the PCM and the dead cylinder continues to receive gas. Your catalytic converter and oxygen sensors may become contaminated by raw gas and need to be replaced. This can be dangerous if it is a known common issue in a Hyundai Elantra and cause an accident when travelling at a higher speed. I was at a stop when this problem occurred for me but was able to safely move out of the way.
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle was idling rough. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. The vehicle was repaired but continued to experience failure. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that they were unable to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.
Drove my car yesterday when it stalled. I was able to start it again and pulled to the side of the highway. The engine was knocking loudly. I turned off the car and called a tow truck. When hyundai received my car they told me it was the rod bearings.they initially told me id be covered regardless of warranty as its a known issue. They called me late that day and told me they won't cover it since I'm 18,000 over the powertrain warrenty. This very problem has been recalled from 2013 upto 2019. However my car isn't listed. They told me ill need a new engine which costs $6000 for parts and labor. After researching im not the first this has happened to.
I am 2nd owner of vehicle (bought with 36252 miles) around 76xxx vehicle starting making ticking noises I brought into carmax where I was told nothing was wrong. I got an oil change and went on my way. 2 days later the car shut off while driving. Brought it back carmax again states nothing wrong. The car is constantly shutting off while driving long distance. At 90525 my car shut off while driving on a bridge brought it into hyundai were they stated I needed a new motor but it wasnt covered under warranty due to "sludge" I live in fl its hot and I live down a 3 mile backroad that will cause build up according to research. Hyundai wont help and this is a safety issue especially for my kids now im stuck making payments on a car that cant be driven and im 2000 in rental car fees. And dont have the best credit to get another car. Something needs to be done asap as I see this complaint multiple times
I bought my 2017 elantra se 2.0 in april of 2020 my car keeps stalling when I let off the gas and when I make turns left or right at low speeds very scary and unsafe and also engine noises and shakes real bad sometimes as well I still owe 20000 for this lemon hyundai should be held responsible for this as its been a serious problem for years from what I read very dangerous this happens on city streets and expressway
My 2017 hyundai elantra began to shake and refused to shift above 40mphs on a road posted 45. The engine light came on and the rmp gauge show that it was stuck at 2rmps. I slowed the vehicle and turn on my flashers and in my traveling to a safe pull off location. The engine light went off, the shaking stopped, and the car resume a normal shifting pattern. The very next day while traveling in the car the same thing occurred. I explained the problem when arrived at hyundai and while idling and waiting to the car person to check me in. The car began to do short shudders; this was directly witnessed by a car service employee. The 2nd cylinder ignition coil was replaced. In my second visit I was sure of what the problem was because I had experienced the same car symptoms several months earlier. Here is the problem this was second cylinder I have had to have replaced in about 3000 miles and several months; my car only has 25,0000 miles. This is a known issue on the repair form it states ecu upgrade.
The car has been stalling since last february, mostly during turns, and while deaccelerating. Sometimes it idles rough and stalls at traffic lights. I took it to my dealer back then, and they told me the problem was caused by metal shavings from the engine plugging the valve that regulates fuel. I had performed regular oil changes and the dealer believed that the problem was caused by a manufacturing defect. The dealer contacted hyundai, and hyundai refused to remedy the defect. The problem temporarily goes away if I get an oil system flush, which I have been doing frequently. After about a month, the car begins stalling again, presumeably because the shavings are plugging the valve again. The car has become difficult to start. This morning it would not start at all.
Hi team, there is a grinding noise whenever I shift my car from park to drive. It happens whenever I shift from park to drive/reverse or slow down quickly. So, I am concerned that there is a safety issue here. I feel really uncomfortable driving my own vehicle when there is something wrong with it. This puts me to think that this might be a transmission issue. The vehicle is under warranty and less than 100,000 km.
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