The car gave an warnings of “Check Electric Vehicle System@ and started slowing down in the middleman of the road. I could have been easily rear ended or got into a serious injury. After googling, it seems almost all if not most of ioniq 5 are having this issue after certain mileage
2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5 electrical complaints
Page 8 of 11: complaints 191 to 220 of 307, newest first, as owners wrote them.
The car started reporting error messages including "Stop vehicle and check power supply". It briefly went into limp mode before dying completely. Flat bed to dealer who can't begin diagnosis for at least a week. This sounds identical to the ICCU issue that many owners are experiencing.
My 12v battery died on 11/12 while my main battery still had 52% charge remaining. Had to jump the battery to get the electrical system to work. Since then several of the cars electrical systems are not working. This is a known issue online that Hyundai has responded to but the dealer is saying that they are not aware.
Car died in a Wegmans parking lot and dealer is telling me it will take 8-10 days to diagnose the problem which is known very well to the manufacturer and dealers. The ICCU has failed.
The 12 volt battery keeps failing. Every time I contact Hyundai AutoNation it takes forever for them to do anything about it and they don't seem to understand
The car suddenly showed a warning on the screen asking me to park and in a few seconds went completely dead. It won't start at all. I can't even unlock the car. I had to call roadside assistance and have them tow the car to Ideal Hyundai dealership in Frederick, MD. It's been 4 days and the dealership can't diagnose the problem or won't communicate what the issue is.
I charge my vehicle using a home 48 amp charger. After about 10 months of ownership. I began to receive “charging unsuccessful”notifications after about ten of charging at the Maximum charging speed. I reduced the charging rate to Reduced and was able to charge continuously to 90% a couple times at that rate. However, I began to receive “charging unsuccessful” notifications at this rate as well and had to lower the charging rate to Minimum in order to charge continuously. I can not charge the vehicle at 48 amps and the vehicle can only charge at 5.7 kwh, rather than the expected 11.5 kwh. The vehicle has been repaired four times. I cannot take the car on long trips, or for intensive use, where I would need to quickly charge to car in order to continue using it. As this issue appears to be progressive, when will the car fail to charge at even the Minimum rate? When I am on the road at a remote charging station? When I have an emergency and need to use it?
The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start as needed. The contact stated that the battery had discharged. The contact had to jump-start the vehicle. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 29,000.
We had charged the Ionique 5 to 90% and driven for short trips. We parked it then went to do some errands about an hour later. The dashboard warned that the 12 V battery was almost completely discharged and that I should start the car by placing the key fob next to the start button. I did that but it didn't start. I pushed the off button and then tried again and it refused to start and the dashboard flashed somewhat erratically. The battery then went completely dead. We called the emergency roadside assistance and they came within 30 minutes but the person who arrived said he knew nothing about electric cars and so we asked him to leave. Later we searched the internet and found others have had the 12 V batteries discharge. We also learned it could be charged with a portable charger. We called the dealer as it was now Sunday. One of the salesforce managers reassured us that is was OK to use regular car chargers on the Ionique 12 volt battery. Our neighbor helped us do this and it then started working. We followed the internet (a blogger's) instructions to go to the utility site and put it in the mode that would make sure the 12 Volt battery was drawing on the main powertrain to completely charge. We left the car on for 30 minutes and then it seemed to be working normally. We did some errands and it continued to work well. The safety risk is if this had happened on the highway and away from home. The car was recently taken in for the scheduled recall of ? something before this happened. There were no warnings or symptoms prior to this incident. There was several months ago an episode when I was driving that the power seemed to decrease and I was unable to accelerate and drove about 2 miles on mostly city streets at about 20 miles per hour. After I shut the car off and then my husband tried to start it the next day, it worked fine--that was the only other incident. I did not report that and it did not recur.
The vehicle lost traction power, failed to respond to presses to the accelerator and coasted to a stop. It gave no indication on the dash that there were any problems. Putting the car in park and then selecting drive again restored traction power and the car responded to pressing of the accelerator pedal. The car was not turned off and back on. During the incident: - The brakes, steering, air conditioning, radio and other electrical equipment continued to operate normally. - The car was configured for "Level 2" regen braking, but during the incident, when all pressure was removed from the accelerator pedal, the car did not "feel" like it slowed as normally did during Level 2 regen when there is no application of the accelerator. - The car was configured for "ECO" mode. The drive mode was switched to Normal and Sport during the incident but it had no effect. - The Power/Charge gauge on the dash neither indicated Power when the accelerator was pressed nor indicated Charge when coasting (as would be expected for Level 2 regen) or when the brake pedal was pressed. Car Information: - The car had about 75% charge and reported about ~260 miles of range. - The manufacturers app has not reported any "DTC" codes. - The car has no open recalls at this time. - Service Campaign 997 was completed August 23rd at dealer. - Service Campaign 9A1 was completed August 23rd at dealer. Additional Information: - A previous event similar to the above described event happened on August 21st where the vehicle lost traction power but gave no indication that anything was wrong. - Reported it to the dealer, but they were unable to find anything wrong or recreate the problem. - They applied the ICCU software update.
After a recent update at my dealer my vehicle is no longer charging at advertised time. It now takes 2 to 3 days to reach full charge from 70 percent.
The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated while accelerating approximately 5 MPH from a stop, the vehicle lost motive power. The contact stated the failure had occurred two days in a row, with the second failure resulting in the vehicle coming to a complete stop. The contact turned off and restarted the vehicle and the vehicle operated normally. The contact stated that he placed the vehicle into SPORT Mode and the vehicle seemed to operate normally. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or independent mechanic. The vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The contact researched online and related the failure to the federal safety agency Action Number: PE23011 Components (Electrical System). The failure mileage was approximately 16,500.
WHEN Home charging with my 50Amp Union installed Charger ,The Ionic5 Hyundai Overheats and shuts down charger ,.I purchased a new Charger 50 Amp. Installed by Union Electrican , Same results . I am very concerned that the Auto will catch on Fire in my garage. Please have mfg ,correct this problem This problem occurs multi times never charges more than 20 minutes
We have owned an Ionic 5 for a year. For 8 months the level 2 charging system worked fine. We have two 40 amp level 2 chargers at two different locations which both charge the car at between 9.0 and 9.2 kW, well below the Ionic 5’s advertised capacity of 10.6 kW. After 8 months the charging session began to fail after only 1.5 hours due to the charge port overheating. Initially this seemed to be related to the ambient temperature, but now the failure occurs even when the ambient temperature is below 70. Once the session fails, the charging system keeps cycling between starting and failing, with each cycle lasting only a couple of minuets. Therefore it is very difficult to charge the car to even an 80% capacity. I am also worried about the impact this constant cycling is having on the battery overheating as well as the life of the battery.
In the 1.5 years since I bought the 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5 (new vehicle) there have been three instances where the car has failed to turn on or off due to rapid discharge of the 12 V battery. In all three occasions, the main battery was fully charged; however, the 12V discharged rapidly. The first two times this happened it took about 20 to 30 minutes of waiting for the main battery to charge the 12V battery before the car would start; however, on the most recent occasion, I had to call a tow truck in order to get the car jump started. I am very concerned about the safety of myself and my young children as I regularly use this car to go to work and take my kids to school. The only warning sign was a yellow light on the dashboard of the car—the indication that the main battery is charging the 12 V battery (this was happening more frequently leading up to the 3 instances, which tells me that the 12V battery needed charge, but was being insufficiently charged by the main battery). Because of the poor 12V battery, I avoid using functions that could deteriorate the 12V battery, such as air conditioning, and the GPS system. Hyundai recently sent a letter/safety notice about a faulty ICCU and fuse, and I will be taking the car in soon to get this repaired, but the repeated discharges of the 12V battery in the last 1.5 years has deteriorated the 12V battery enough that Hyundai should be proactively replacing it (not just the ICCU and fuse).
The vehicle will not fully charge at home at night on a level 2 EVSE. It charges for a few minutes, than stops entirely. When I restart the process, the same issue remains. I cannot charge the car fully at Level 2, 40amps. I wake up in the morning and only 5% of charge has been added.
The ICCU failed in the car. The car lost power while driving and showed an EV warning and the 12V battery warning.
While driving at highway speeds, there was a loud pop and the display showed "reduce power mode". We had to improvise a stopping place despite being far from home. There was no warning or issues beforehand. This incident was risky because of the loss of power while on a high speed thoroughfare and limited stopping options. The vehicle required a jump to move onto tow truck to take to dealership, where it has remained for two weeks without an estimate for repair. The symptoms.seem consistent with ICCU failure.
Issues with home charging at 40 amps port heats up and stops charging. When I purchased this car they stated it was possible charging at that rate.
Check electric charge error displayed, alarm sounding, loss of power to the vehicle while driving (limp mode).
While driving on the highway on 8/12 at around 4pm, with another passenger, doing approximately 65 MPH I received a "Check Electric Vehicle System" warning on my dashboard. The car showed no prior warnings, no other lights were on. MyHyundai app was also showing no diagnostic issues with the car. The car battery was showing a 77% charge at the time. I swerved on to the shoulder, putting myself in danger as this is a really busy highway. I checked the car and could not find anything wrong. Hyundai had not contacted me regarding any recalls. I decided to keep driving to see if I could make it home to diagnose the issue. I made it another 20 minutes and as I was about to exit the highway at around 60MPH the car completely slowed down to 20MPH suddenly, and I was forced to swerve onto the shoulder once again. The car would not accelerate past 20 MPH. Fearing an accident, I called a tow truck and had the car towed back to my house. There were no warnings lights/signs prior to this event. The car completely slowed down from 60-65MPH to 20MPH in the middle of the highway and I was forced to make an emergency stop putting myself and my passenger at risk. The car was brought to the dealership on 8/14 which is the first time I was alerted that there had been a recall on my car and that the ICCU would need replacement. At no point did Hyundai ever contact me via email, text, call, or mail alerting me there was a recall prior to this scary experience. This is gross negligence on the part of Hyundai, as my vehicle could have been rear ended and caused a major accident on the highway.
Vehicle suddenly had no power on the highway. Error messages said to check the power supply. Prior to this there were error messages to stop the vehicle and check the power supply. Car would not drive more than 20mph. Car then died on the highway without any power when attempting to drive to the dealer. Problem was reproduced and confirmed by the dealer to be a faulty ICCU.
The car will only charge at half of the advertised Level 2 AC charging rate. It advertises it can charge at 48 amps; however, we cannot charge above 24 amps. If we charge above that rate the charging will stop. The issue appears to be well documented in online forums where if the charging port reaches about 100 Degrees C it will fault. There is a TSB they are installing but it just makes it automatically derate to ~24 amps which other than providing 15 minutes of higher power it doesn't at all solve the situation. Hyundai has recently stated that they are aware of the issue and they expect people to live with it and re-adjust their expectations; but it is fair to expect the car to perform as advertised. I also don't think any caveats about charging speed for weather or state of charge would be specific to level 3 charging; I am not aware of another EV in existence that doesn't provide its advertised AC charging level. It pretty clearly appears to be defective hardware. We also have friends who bought their car a month later (July 2023) and they are having the same issue; albeit they can still charge at 32amps. To answer the questions directly. - Charge Port - The cars cannot charge in time advertised making people drive without buffers and could run out of power on trips because they can only charge at half the rate advertised and couldn't charge overnight. - We are getting the TSB that will automatically reduce the charging rate this week. we had to wait over a month for an appointment. - It has not been inspected yet but all they are going to do per the TSB is if we say we have the problem they do the software update. - There are no customer facing error codes. The issue first started in March the first day it was over 70 degrees. We did not have an issue last summer or over the winter. The longest we can charge since then at 40 amps is about 15 minutes. We have never even charged the car at 48 amps which is what it is supposed to be able to do.
Hyundai San Jose dealership, Customer Service, told me, The fuse surrounding the Lithium battery is broken. This causes the whole car break down, and it is very dangerous to drive. My car has been in this Hyundai dealership over 5 months now, Hyundai cannot send the parts to San Jose Hyundai and I cannot drive the car. Also the 12V small lead acid battery in the front, broken down a few times. Cannot start the car. The whole car shuts down.
I was driving and the car suddenly slowed down unable to accelerate much and showed a messaged saying 'Check Electrical Vehicle System‘. The service center says it is an ICCU problem. I have been waiting several weeks the part is still on backorder without any ETA.
Car intermittently stops charging using a level two charger. Problem started approximately February 2023. Did not happen prior to that date. Car will issue a report through blue link app every 2 to 3 minutes reporting charging failure. This alert will happen approximately 50 times throughout the charging process until charging is complete.
My vehicle began having charge failures at 13k miles. It went from working fine to not charging at all. The dealership has told me it is an ICCU issue and must be replaced. The ICCU is on back order with mo eta. I am left without a vehicle and no compensation.
While driving in heavy rain, I got warning: Stop and Check Battery. When I could find a safe place I stopped and read the Manual. I could find nothing helpful. My car was 63% charged. This was the 12v battery failing. I was then 5 miles from home. I turned off radio and lights, but could not drive without wipers. At about 2 miles from home the car slowed down. I continued to lose power as the rain got heavier. I was able to keep barely moving until I pulled into my driveway. I got out and locked the car by habit. I realized I needed it unlocked, but it was too late; it was DEAD. At the end the display read Losing Power and showed a small turtle. Indeed.
The car (2022 Ioniq 5, an EV) lost power while driving. There was warning at the same time stating that the car is losing power and need to stop for safety. Minutes later the car completely lost power and can not be turned on. The car has to be towed to Hyundai dealer. It has been 2 months and 2 weeks and the car is till in Hyundai dealer's lot without being repaired. We were told by the dealer a control unit need to be replaced and it has to be shipped from Korean.
I was driving on the highway passing an 18 wheeler when suddenly the car decelerated and stop quick and was unresponsive and screen showed electric system malfunctioning. Could not moved from left lane on the highway. Thanks God that the person behind me at the moment was a police officer who helped me stop the traffic so we could move the the car to the service road. Car is on the shop and they are trying to figure out what is going on
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