Mazda CX-7 won't start problems

Filed Mar 31, 2021 · Electrical, Engine · 87,000 miles · AZ

The vehicle would not start, would stall out and turn off while driving. The driver's side window will not move up or down. The car would start with jumper cables, idle for a few minutes, then go completely dead, no lights, no buzz, no nothing as soon as it was put into reverse. The car has a new battery, new coils, new spark plugs and continues to misfire. Mazda has been unresponsive to messages due to open recalls.

Filed Jul 6, 2019 · Airbags, Body · 150,000 miles · NE

' takata recall' it seems after having my car for 4 months I ran into issues. I was driving on a residential street when my car started making a strange whining noise and small plumes or white smoke began to come from the hood, near the pulley systems. I drove home approximately 4 miles away . I went to start it the next day and it won't start it seems to be the alternator.

Filed Feb 19, 2019 · Engine · 115,466 miles · VA

The motor started running hot and losing power and I shut it off. The vehicle was towed to a garage and was scanned on computer and only showed code for steering wheel angle. The mechanic pulled the coils and plugs and checked for spark and installed new plugs and all coils operated normally. Compression was checked and was low in all cylinders around 70-80 psi. Plugs and coils were reinstalled and intercooler put back on. Car is in a no start condition, car was taken to closest mazda dealer and they said they would not fix problem since someone had been in the motor. The mechanic called their service department and told them exactly what had been done and they said they would not make it right. The car has 115000 miles and has numerous recalls for the vvt timing chain, turbo, engine, and they have tsb's for these issues and still play dumb. I want my motor fixed by mazda at mazda's expense since there are so many complaints and issues with these vehicles and mazda knows about it and still doesn't want to make things right.

Filed Feb 23, 2016 · Electrical, Lights · VA

The head lights and tail lights have been replaced over three times in least than two years. The condensation on the covers makes it difficult seeing where one is driving. This I believe is a safety issue. This condensation has also caused my radio to lose its sound. The battery will not start if it rains or its cold.

Filed Aug 13, 2014 · Electrical, Engine · 105,000 miles · PA

Prior to this date, which lead up to the last incident, upon getting the first few oil changes, at a dealership where I purchased the car, the engine began to sound like a truck (oil used was not synthetic and I were scheduled to come back in 5-months). When I inquired about it, I was told, "that was the way it was supposed to sound". After that comment, I changed to another dealership for service. The knocking continued, to this day, still. Over the years, the system lights would come on periodically (passenger air bag, check engine light and tire sensor) and the cooling fans would run after you turned the car off. Most times, they would reset themselves. Moving along, recently on 07/15/14, I was returning home for the evening and the car shut down on me. The steering control was hard but I kept it from crashing the wall on lincoln dr. As I flagged the traffic to proceed, I was able to start the car only to advance to the end of the drive. Before I reached home, the car shut down 5-times. Finally reaching home it sat until I were able to get it to another dealer, closer to home. How about, the engine is shot, the radiator had a leek, I knew nothing about and the dealer says, "it will not start, now". I drove it to the dealer. Oil light was on and smelling as if I burned something, while it knocked. Check engine light and passenger air bag light were on when it cut-off, as I pulled into their driveway. I restarted the car found a parking space. Once the ignition shutdown, the cooling fans came on. Dilemma, I leased the car new in 2007. I bought it, with present car payments until 2016, in 2010. The dealer requests the engine and radiator to be replaced. There is no warranty, especially after 100,000 miles and I have scrap on my hands. Where does one go from here as mazda used to be reputable? The engine shouldn't have any problems before 200,000 miles.

Filed Jun 11, 2013 · Electrical, Engine · 60,000 miles · TX

Compressor kit was already having issues when driving and when stopped to fuel up, the car would not start as the pulley on the compressor kit was catching and not turning correctly to start the ignition. The car is only a 2007 and only had 60,000 miles on it.

Filed Mar 23, 2013 · Driver assistance, Engine · 55,882 miles · TN · fire

Started smelling strong burning rubber odor emanating through vents of car while in operation, exited highway upon seeing white smoke fuming from under hood. Loss control of steering and vehicle shut off and would not crank again. Mechanic determined AC compressor has seized and serpentine belt was snapped due to friction from pulleys. If I had stayed on freeway instead of exiting, with the lost of steering I surely would have posed a danger to myself as well as others on the road. This complaint is one of numerous thousands that have been filed on behalf of mazda and its cx-7 model. There should be a recall issued for the AC compressor before it causes serious injury and/or fatality.

Filed Dec 28, 2011 · Engine, Transmission · 65,000 miles · PA

On 12/19/11, I was driving appx. 60 - 65 MPH on I-81 when my 2007 mazda cx-7 just shut off. I was in the middle of traffic on the interstate, with a large tractor trailer behind me, but I was able to safely maneuver my car onto the shoulder of the interstate. My car would not start again. I did quite a bit of research on line regarding this particular issue and found a significant number of claims from other people that had this same problem happen to their 2007 mazda cx7. The final diagnosis is total engine failure with a price tag of $7200 to fix. That would be for a whole new engine. I found a service bulletin from january of 2008 that corporate mazda sent out to their dealers re: a problem with the timing chain. The bulletin specifically identifies a series of VIN#'s affected, and mine falls into the category. There is currently about 65k miles on my car (I can't remember exactly), and I did not buy the extended warranty because who would think that a 2007 vehicle would need a new engine @ 65k miles? I think I should've been notified that there was an ongoing issue with this particular model and year. Both mazda and the dealership are telling me they will not do anything for me, because the vehicle is out of warranty. Mazda needs to take responsibility here. I'm lucky I was able to get my car through the traffic and off the interstate. Does someone need to be killed before this issue gets attention? My car showed absolutely no warning signs that something was wrong for me to pro-actively have this checked.

Filed Aug 19, 2011 · Engine · 26,000 miles · PA

Tl* the contact owns a 2007 mazda cx-7. The contact stated after the vehicle was parked and he restarted it the vehicle would not start. The vehicle was taken to the dealer three times and after a diagnostic test the dealer could not diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was notified and offered no assistance. The failure mileage was 26,000.

Filed Jan 6, 2011 · Electrical, Engine · IN

An excess of white smoke emitted from exhaust upon acceleration after a brief period of idle. It was determined that a faulty turbo charger was to blame. So the car was in the shop for 7 days while they replaced the turbo. Several months later the car wouldn't start after sitting in a heated garage overnight. It sounded as though the cylinders weren't firing properly. Car was towed to mechanic who identified issue as fouled cylinder heads from prior failure of turbo. This time the entire engine was replaced. Again the car was in the shop for approximately seven days. Some months later an oppressive amount of road noise appeared at all speeds on all road surfaces. We were directed that the tires were to blame. After replacing all 4 tires at a cost of nearly $800 the sound persisted. Upon further inspection the technician found that the wheel speed sensors on the rear wheels had failed allowing water to seep in and rust rear wheel bearings. All four wheel bearings where replaced. Today the vehicle is again in for engine repair to replace the oxygen sensor and a dead battery. After owning the car for 18 months it is has been in the shop for a total of approximately 4 weeks.