We purchased this vehicle used. It is a 2012 Mini Cooper hardtop and was owned by several owners in the Canada, NY and NJ area before being brought to FL and ultimately sold to us. This defect has been known since May, 2023, yet BMW/Mini has done nothing to rectify the problem. The FRM module failed immediately after we got the car which rendered it undriveable because the power windows, power door locks, turn signals and key fob were inoperable. We called BMW/Mini about the vehicle being inoperable and unsafe to drive and were told to take it to a repair facility to get the module replaced, which we did. We had to tow it there because it was not safe to drive. We were told we would be reimbursed for the repairs, since this was in fact a documented safety recall #23V‑337 Footwell Control Module-FRM. After paying $759.18 for the repairs, I submitted the invoice and the requested information to BMW/Mini just to have them deny my request for reimbursement because they say after an entire year since the notice that there is no remedy available. This is unacceptable!! I could not drive this car without having this module replaced and I am sure I'm not alone in this situation. BMW/Mini should reimburse me for the repairs they instructed me to get done. They point blank LIED to me by stating the repairs would be reimbursed due to this being a safety recall. This is going to turn into a class action lawsuit because BMW/Mini refuses to accept responsibility for their faulty vehicles! This will be just another lawsuit to add to their collection.
MINI Cooper door locks problems
25 of the 2,237 owner complaints about the MINI Cooper describe doors won't lock, open or latch, most of them for the 2003 model year.
- owner complaints
- 25
- worst model year
- 2003
- typical mileage
- 68,000
By model year
- 20172
- 20141
- 20131
- 20123
- 20102
- 20091
- 20054
- 20036
- 20024
- 20011
Often reported together
Key fob 2Fire or smoke 2Windshield crack 1Transmission failure 1Pulling 1Power windows 1Overheating 1
What owners say
i Purchased the car in Dover Pa . INspection sticker had same milage as on car so i shoulda knew he slapped a sticker on . drove 150 miles dash lit ip like chrismas tree. 1st thing left window wont work , then left lock wont work had to lock from passenfger dide. then door wont open at all . have to get ou t passenger door . know that wont open have to put down passenger window pull handel to get out . car is possessed light work whren they want does all kinda crazt stuff . batter has problems . charge and still cant start it . and hatch locks so i cant get to battery. power steering leaking going bad . timing belt making noise . no power on hills .cracking noise in right front pulls to right had . hazard to me ive been locked inside three times could get out of car i coulda sat in heat and died or cold and froze . cant get out of car when it ts electric doors dont work . car sucks . this has been gradual thing these events from feb to may . now i just hate the car
The driver door latching mechanism failed this past week. For days, I was unable to latch the door closed -- all attempts to close the door would result in the door simply bouncing off the body of the car. I spent hours unsuccessfully trying to get the latching mechanism to work again, e.g. by repeatedly attempting to close the door, holding the door closed and trying to lock all doors. To drive the car home from work and to the dealership for repairs, I was forced to hold the door closed with my left hand while driving and by tying the door closed with my seat belt (on the highway, no less). I eventually took the car to my local dealership and left it for diagnosis and repairs. I took a video of the door's fault, and left the car locked and with the driver's door tied closed with my seat belt. To my amazement, the dealership called a few days later and told me that they were unable to duplicate the fault; as far as I know, no repairs were therefore made. I shared the video of the door's fault with the dealership; they hypothesized that the latching mechanism may have intermittently failed because of the weather. I now feel anxious about driving the car. This is a major safety issue. There are reasons to suspect that this reflects a manufacturing defect: 1) door latches should never fail, irrespective of the age of the car, and force drivers / passengers to e.g. use their seat belts to hold their doors closed; 2) my car is low mileage (~36,000 miles); 3) my car was not involved in any preceding accident or incident that could have caused the latching mechanism to fail; and 4) this is the second time this has happened with this car -- the same issue occurred with the front passenger door ~2 years ago. I'd be happy to share the video that I took of me trying to close the door (already shared with the dealer). At this point, I'd like the federal safety agency to investigate; initiate a recall, if necessary; and I'd like Mini to replace the remaining latches on my car.
The failed component is the "Footwell Relay Module" (FRM) which enables communication between the instrument panel in the passenger compartment and the engine control components in the engine compartment. When this component fails the following essential controls become inoperable: emergency flashers, turn signals, door locks, and windows. Most other "convenience features controlled by the car instrument panel become inoperable as well. This problem was confirmed by an independent technician, a technician at Mini of Stevens Creek in San Jose, CA, and the owner. No inspections of the part were ever done and the FRM failed without warning. This is a common failure in Minis due to a faulty design. The part is insufficiently protected from inrush current surge when a fully-charged battery is reconnected following service. It is also not sufficiently protected from induced voltage surges from EMI such as C, K or Ka band radar or electrical storms. One or more integrated circuits in the part are destroyed when exposed to current or voltage spikes rendering the part inoperable. The cost to replace the FRM (parts & labor) exceeds $1000.
Per dealer, the front passenger door latch cable went bad (documentation available if needed) on a 2017 Mini Cooper S (4-door). Background: there was an episode a few weeks back when I was unable to latch the front passenger door. It just wouldn't latch when you tried to close it - the door would just swing / bounce off the body of the car (so to speak) on closure attempts. I fiddled with locking / unlocking the door, was finally able to have it latch again. Around 7/12, people washing my car accidentally opened that door. Unfortunately, despite again trying to fiddle around to get the door to latch for quite some time, I wasn't able to latch that door again. This obviously created a huge safety issue -- e.g. to even get the car to a dealership for repairs, people in my situation would often have to physically hold the door closed from the inside while driving. I figured out a way to hold it closed with the front passenger seatbelt; that thankfully held the door closed while I drove (including on the highway) the car to the dealership. The dealer eventually diagnosed the front passenger door latch cable as having gone bad (please see attached service report). First, the latching mechanism for car doors should never fail - customers should never e.g. have to hold their doors closed while driving or have to rig up their seatbelts to do the same. Second, it's also very unexpected that this issue happened in my car -- my car has always been well-maintained (it's regularly serviced), my car is just four years old, it's very low mileage (26k); and hardly anyone uses my front passenger door.
I was driving down hwy 16 (a straight a way 2 lane hwy) towards woodland when the display showed what appeared to be the water icon and I noticed white smoke from under my hood, so I pulled over and sat there thinking maybe my car was overheating. A truck coming behind me went by honking their horn and I looked in review mirror and noticed dark smoke coming from behind my car.. I then proceed to get out of my vehicle and couldnt get the drivers door open a gentleman came up to my vehicle told me to get out but I told him the door wouldnt open, he opened the door and was saying get out and away the cars going to blow up, that was my first acknowledgment that the vehicle was on fire. The police and fire dept was notified and came out to where the vehicle was at and proceed to extinquish the vehicle. I had to get the car towed by triple a off a friends of mines tow package that she has. Im contacting the fire dept and police today on getting some paperwork related to this today so all I have to show is pics.
The metal cladding on the passenger door handle detached and when I grabbed the handle to get into the car the metal cut into my index finger, requiring 5 stitches to close the wound. The car was stationary and parked in my space on private property.
Driver's door handle lock cover (plastic) felt unexpectedly while driving.
Our 2010 mini cooper drivers side door lock actuator has malfunctioned making it impossible to open the door. This is the second time this has happened to this car (previous was the passenger side). It seems to be a common occurrence in mini's. This is an extremely serious possibly deadly condition if we were in an accident as rescue/medical personnel could not get us out of the door. Something needs to be done to have bmw/mini own up to the problem and have a second, mechanical, way to open the door.
Started car, red service icon on dash alternating with driver door open icon. This was a loss of interior lights, signal lights, brake lights, hazard lights, window up/down controls, and door lock functions. Car otherwise operated normally. This malfunction requires dealer only repair.
Related recalls
No recalls on record for this model year.
Questions about the MINI Cooper door locks
Which MINI Cooper years have doors won't lock, open or latch problems?
The model years with the most reports are 2003 (6 complaints), 2002 (4 complaints) and 2005 (4 complaints).
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