My car started to run hot as soon as the car was drove about a quarter of a mile, but the fluid wasn't hot. My husband replaced the thermostat, hoses, a cooling sensor, and some other things. When none of that worked, we took it to a radiator shop and they told us we need head gaskets. We have a 2001 aztek and when we got the car in 2004, the gaskets blew but it was under warranty. That is an expensive job. Gm needs to recall this vehicle and give us all some reliable cars and trucks!
2001 Pontiac Aztek electrical complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 40 of 40, newest first, as owners wrote them.
We have had problems with our rear hatch opening properly since we purchased this aztec new in 2000. About 3 years ago, the problem developed into not being able to open the rear hatch with the key fob, dash release button and the most frustrating as well as dangerous aspect is it would not open even by using the vehicle keys. It has now increased to the point that the cars alarm system will go off on its own, the air conditioner quits working, the remote entry door system becomes useless and entire vehicles electrical door lock system fails. Since only the two front doors will open with the vehicle key and we almost always have children in car seats in the rear, this has become a dangerous situation. In searching the internet, we found that if we pulled the fuse that controlled the vehicles computer module, called the bcm, the module would reset itself and it would temporarily fix the problem. Estimates to fix this by the dealer are upwards of $ 700.00 and he doesn't know for sure if this will fix the problems. An AC delco branded bcm replacement on the internet can be purchase for less than $ 170.00. I believe gm should issue a recall on this product or at least offer to fix the problem at a reasonable cost to the consumer.
I was finding antifreeze in my oil. Took to the shop and had to have the intake gasket and the manifold gasket replaced. Also had to have a new thermostat and pvc valve. It cost almost $900.00. This is not the only problems have had to have the front wheel bearings replaced 2 times and brake shoes 2 times. Also had to have the heater fixed. Now the AC does not work. Had to have the window control unit replaced on the driver side. Had to have computer components replaced because the battery went bad with no notice. And now the windshield wipers do not work. To fix this problem is going to cost me $200 that is just for the whole motor and connecting rods. Because it is a factory only part. All together I have paid almost $2,000.00. The AC is the condenser which is another $300.00. I have had and loved gm vehicles for awhile. But this kind of thing has never been a problem.....something has got to be done.
Tl*the contact owns a 2001 pontiac aztek. The contact stated that the air conditioner was not working. The vehicle also began emitting smoke, but the failure was repaired. The dealer diagnosed the cause of failure as electrical. The purchase date and failure mileage were unknown. The current mileage is 72,000. Updated 08/14/07.
It all started with my lights not turning off at night. I would have to disconnect my battery to get the lights to go off. Then the chimes would not go off. Disconnect battery again. Was told to replace key fob battery. A couple of weeks later, door locks, gauges, all dash lights, horn, headlights, went crazy driving down the highway with my 7 year old son with me. I have taken this vehicle to 7 or 8 places including the pontiac dealership and noone knows what to do. Noone!!! My horn would blow intermittently sitting at a redlight one day, with two cars in front of me. The car immediately in front of me thought I was blowing at them because the light had changed and started to go, even though the car in front of them was still stopped. This is a seriously dangerous problem with the electrical system of this vehicle. The closest I got to a diagnosis of the problem was that it was a problem with the security system somehow. I just dont know what else to do.ad
Dt*: the contact stated the electrical system went defective and the contact was locked in the vehicle, and without any lights. The service dealer replaced the ignition switch to resolve the issue. The contact expressed concern of this possibly happening again. The lights, doors and windows failed on a regular basis. Updated 01/10/07.
My pontiac aztec main power control module (a computer unit controlling every electrical functions in the car including starting the car,car keys function,working every car lights,opening doors,controlling battery output,security system, among others), was defective, dead, and out of order .the events leading up to the failure were some weak clicks you can hardly hear and you don't know where it is coming from when you stop the car and then it dies out. It sounds like the c.d. Player was ejecting c.d. When the failure happened my SUV was like a dead mountain, I was lucky it happen one morning while the car was at a stand still. You put the car key to start it and it gets stuck! You try to jump started but it is not the battery. You cant do nothing to it. Plus, although its an unsafe and dangerous problem,or car part, only the dealer can fix it and nobody else. So after you tow it to them you are under their mercy to tell you whatever they like to tell for how much it will cost to be fixed, and when it will be fixed, it is like a monopoly, and it is not fair. What if that module dies while you are driving in the middle of a highway? And what if it dies while doors are looked, you are driving, it looks the driver in inside the car, and you cant get out while it is moving from what ever charge left? It is really a scary feeling? And very emotionally stressful when I am to figure out what to do to start it. But I was lucky it happened in my home garage! Please investigate and let the manufacture know they can not be cheap on that part which control everything as I described above. May be as a solution to this complexes-functioned failure is to diversify the functions on many small and multiple modules so as to be easy to be fixed. Put more warning about what to do if it fails on the road, in their catalogue( I have no clue of what to do) please prevent this unsafe and dangerous failure to happen to another fellow citizen and on the road? Please advise. Thank you.
We have had multiple thing go wrong with our 2001 aztek we purchased under 40,000 miles, now has about 60, 000- the front brake rotors were warped- mechanic said that they had to have been like that from manufacturer, as he has never seen anything that bad in a car of that age- air conditioner is not working- went on the web, and it looks like many owners are also experiencing this due to cracked/leaking compressors- also, fuel gauge stopped working shortly after we purchased- needle is very sporadic, and you never know how much gas you have- this also seems to be a common problem- had interior electrical problems as well- this was the only thing fixed by pontiac- I recently contacted pontiac, who was unwilling to address any of these issues.
Dt: the car is having brake problems, and the consumer has been fixing the brakes every since she owned the vehicle. The air conditioner has been replaced 3 times within the first year she owned the car. The car was having sensor problems. In order for the consumer to get her sticker for the year, her car had to be in good shape. The place where consumer bought her car is committing fraud. They didn't do a thorough check on consumer's car before she bought it. There is rust underneath her hood.
Vehicle has been intermittently losing power completely, and indicating loss of ABS system. Replacing fuses returned the car to the road, but happened at least twice more within the subsequent week. Vehicle was brought to a repair shop who eventually found the problem after 3 days. Part of the wiring harness was routed improperly under the top driver's side flex motor mount. Each time the motor mount would flex under driving conditions, the metal would erode the protective shielding around the harness and the wires themselves. Wires and harness were repaired and re-routed over the mount and secured properly.
While pulling into a driveway vehicle accelerated. Consumer had to apply the emergency brake in order to stop the vehicle. *ak the ignition wouldn't turn on, the rear hatch would not open, the computer system had blown out, there were numerous electrical problems, and the tire exploded.
Several trips to the shop, car wouldn't start. Battery light stays on. They couldn't fix it. It's stranded me several times. This time they replaced the battery and starter, this car only has 47,000 miles on it.
Electrical and A/C problems:t 40,000 I had to replace the A/C compressor because it had a hole. I paid for the repair as it was out of warranty.t 83,000, the hatch ceased working, couldn't be opened manually or electronically. The driver's sid door lock ceased working ( ipaid to have that fixed, noone could diagnose the hatch) and the A/C ceased working. The battery light was on. Suddenly, the security light came on and the key could not be removed, the car would not turn over. I paid the dealer to replace the ignition switch ($350). Replaced the battery, but still had dead battery within a week. Replaced the alternator beacause it registered a bad diode (($500) battery dead the next day. My mechanic traced the problem to a short somewhere in the electrical system that caused a 12 volt drain on the battery. It would have been at least another $1000 to pinpoint and correct the problem. I have saved my receipts and purchased a new car, not a pontiac.
This pontiac aztek has electrical problems that cause the entire vehicle to shut down while driving. When it occurs, everything stops working including the steering, therefore making it impossible to steer off the road safely. We have been in 3 near accidents since the vehicle electronic system always seemed to shut down while we were driving on busy highways. The result of the electrical system failure has been 3 burned out fuel pumps (each costing $700.00 to replace), an electrical harness needing replacement and continued electronic failures. All the repairs have been done at my expense. Pontiac refuses to provide any assistance or even assist with finding a remedy to the problem.
Have had on-going issues with electrical system and A/C evaporator drain. Have had the drain cleaned twice and repaired once. Still have water draining into passenger compartment. Have replaced both front hubs, four wiring harnesses, the fuel pump, the battery, and the blower motor twice. Most of these failures due to corrosion/melting. Another harness now needs to be replaced due to corrosion.
8081 miles: SRS light on intermittently. (reflash PCM and bcm) battery goes dead intermittently. (replaced battery and cleaned terminals) the brakes squeal and erratic fuel gauge. (no problem found at that time). *ak 8125 miles: ses light on again. (cleaned corroded connectors for ABS and fuel pump) 8155 miles: ses on again. (replaced all femaile terminals and cleared codes. Dropped fuel tank to replace fuel modules, replaced all terminals at module. 11541 miles: air bag light on intermittently (could not reproduce) turn signal fuse blowing regularly (replaced neutral wiring safety switch, adj for reverse lights) 12018: turn signals blowing still. (replaced flasher unit) 23968 miles: right fromt wheel metal on metal clicking noise at all speeds (no problem found) check left front master window control switch fallen into door (replaced switch bezel in driverside) 30233 miles: metal on metal clicking noise again (turned and rotated rotars) drivers side window sticks and stops going up or down. (nothing done) 33442 miles: windows stick in up or down position after drivers sided fails to function. (unable to reproduce) 35875 miles: power windows not functioning properly, stickin up or down position (unable to reproduce problem) rear lift gate not fully releasing (adjusted hatch bumpers and lubed latches.
Car was being driven at highway speed, upon approaching stop sign the brakes failed resulting in near collision with semi tractor trailer. The brakes began to work but without power assist. Dealer was contacted and instructed us to drive the vehicle to the dealership. Brakes failed again on the way to the dealership. Upon investigation compartment housing the wiring harness was found to be filled with water and the wiring harness controlling the ABS, brake sensor, fuel gauge, and fuel sender was corroded.
Driver and passenger side doors open and close intermittently, causing the battery to run down because a light was on, resulting in a short and no lights on at all.
Electrical system is continuously going out. Driver is not aware of the speed due to odometer not functioning, nor how much gas is in the gas tank due to fuel gauge failure.
After car was services, within one-half hour of driving vehicle the engine caught on fire. The fire could not be put out by 8 police vehicles responding and had to be extinguished by a volunteer fire company engine.
The head lights and tail lights flashed intermittently. The horn was also inoperative. The dealer inspected the vehicle but was unable to duplicate or correct the problem.
Soon after purchase there was a clicking noise that began in the rear of the vehicle when applying brakes. The clicking noise then turned into a popping noise that could be felt when applying the brakes. There is wind noise on the left front door post, noise in the front end of vehicle, the right headlight is inoperable, the horn is inoperable, and the wipers do not turn off at times. *jg
Electrical system has been replaced 3 times due to the battery light and engine check light coming on. Vehicle has been taken to dealer 20 times. Please provide additional information.
Consumer states the ABS system failed three times. Also the ABS light came on four times. The dealer replaced speed sensor assembly. Vehicle continues to have problems. Consumer wants a total refund for the vehicle.
Consumer had to take vehicle to dealer ship for service on engine light that was illuminating on dashboard. Mechanic stated there was a short in wiring harness, resulting in a vehicle fire.
Had just started vehicle when ABS light and chimes sounded. This was an indication ABS was not working. Dealer informed vehicle was okay to drive. There were no problems with brakes.*ak ABS still do not work, dealer found defective bcm, also replaced blown right turn blinker bulb and replaced right rear stop lamp bulb.
Horn stopped working, dealer replaced airbag module 3 times in a 2 month period. Problem kept reoccurring.
I am very disturbed by this vehicle. This is the 2nd "new" car I have bought from tom pedens and it is also the 2nd "lemon" I traded in a 2000 grand prix because of all of the trouble I was having plus I lost $2,000 on the trade-in, but I needed a dependable car, and I chose the "aztec" and received another lemon. Now what do I do? The mechanics say that they can't do anything for the rattles, remote, or the latch, so did I spend $22,000 for another car? I work hard for my money and look out for the safety of my children. Really how safe are they, when they get in a brand new car that is falling apart? Please help me!!!!
After starting vehicle air bag light would remain on. Electrical system would also fail. Vehicle would act erratically. Had vehicle test driven twice by mechanic before problem was noticed. Mechanic disabled air bag, but could not locate cause of electrical system failure.
Vehicle has lost all power 5 times since purchase. New battery installed by dealer after first incident where car died twice in one day--once upon backing up/once while parked in garage upon startup. Problem intermittent -- will run okay for several days then shutdown upon startup.
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