My car stalls occasionally when I come to a full stop. This issue has been evident since about 80,000 miles. The dealership reviled it was due to a faulty torque converter. I found the information below on line and seems to resonate. Vehicle stalls after sudden stop requiring it to be restarted. I was told by subaru sales there is a tsb # 16-90-13 r (1/6/14 issued). This relates to the transmission ( CVT) looking up after a sudden stop due to a thrust washer inside the torque converter.
2011 Subaru Outback engine complaints
Page 4 of 4: complaints 71 to 93 of 93, newest first, as owners wrote them.
At 72,000 miles, the 3.6 litre engine has begun to push oil out of the engine. My mechanic said it is a known fact that their engines do this. I see where newer model owners won a class action lawsuit against subaru who knew their engines are faulty and push or burn oil. I believe more model years should be covered in a complaint. At 72,000 miles, the engine is barely broken in. December.
I own a 2011 subaru outback with 93,000 miles. The car stalled out at red lights in the city. Also, it stalled when I was on a hill and came to a stop. I was fortunate to restart engine and get out of the way of traffic. I took it to the dealer and they said I needed a torque converter costing $1,200. After reading the many complaints from other owners it is a dangerous situation. Why hasn't subaru recalled the torque converters?
The vehicle will stall out when the brakes are pressed abruptly and the speed suddenly decreases. This is extremely unsafe. Especially for my pregnant wife to be driving. We bought a subaru because we thought they were built right and safe. We were wrong.
Stalling when comes to a stop. Torque converter is bad
Began noticing vehicle shuddering and quitting or almost quitting when coming to a stop. Has continued to do this for months now and seems to be getting worse. Took it to dealer and it was diagnosed at torque converter sticking after several tests. Referenced to subaru tsb no. 16-101-16. Dangerous design flaw as it can leave you without power after coming to an abrupt stop such as braking to avoid hitting a stopped vehicle leaving you unable to move away from other cars without restarting vehicle. My vehicle is in excellent condition aside from this issue but is out of powertrain warranty and the cost to repair are prohibitive. Request to issue recall for safety issues primarily and to not ultimately cause damage to transmission in the long term.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 subaru outback. While driving or when coming to a sudden stop, the vehicle would stall. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who could not diagnose the issue. The failure occurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer was notified of the issue. The failure mileage was 118,000.
My vehicle has had 4 of 6 ignition could fail due to excessive corrosion within a span of months. Failure has resulted in sudden engine failure and hesitations causing the vehicle to lose power unpredictably and forced us to pull over. Subaru of america has refused to repair these components because they are beyond the 3 year warranty period. It is unlikely that four components would all fail similarly without a serious defect in the parts or a design flaw in the automobile. There were two occurrences of this failure- one coil failed in september 2014 and three more failed in december 2015
Service bulletin # 16-90-13 car stalls when coming to a stop. This happens in traffic at stop lights anywhere I need to make a hard stop. This is very dangerous and it would appear this is a major issue for many owners. This should be a recall not just a service bullitin
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 subaru outback. The contact stated when the vehicle was at a stop position, the engine stalled. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 138,500.
I purchased my 2011 subaru outback new and love the car. However it has one problem which has shaken my confidence in it. With the vehicle in drive, my foot on the brake, and at a complete stop, the engine will shudder violently. The RPM's will loose about 200 to 300 RPM's, then go immediately go back up to the correct rpsm; the engine will not die but feels as if it might. This has happened many, many times. It does not seem to matter if the engine is cold or warm, if the A/C is on or off, of the radio is on or off, or anything else. I fully explained the situation to the dealer when I took it in for an oil change. I told them I can somewhat replicate the problem by pushing the door lock/unlock button when the car is at a complete stop, in drive,with my foot on the break; it is not as violent a shudder but very similar. They kept the car overnight and said they test drove the car but "could not duplicate" the problem. It appears this must be some type of electrical condition. I am dreading the day when I am on a busy southern california freeway in stop and go traffic and the car leaves me stranded. Any suggestions?
Merging and accelerating onto interstate and engine cut out for approx 3 seconds with no engine power. Check engine lights illuminated and stayed lit. Drove ok after that. This is a repeat of the same problem that occurred three different times last year. Dealer advised both then and now that an electrical harness connector was working itself loose and they will tighten it. No assurances given that it won't re-occur at an inconvenient time such as a rail crossing or when a semi is bearing down on me.
When applying the brakes hard at the a stopping point of the car it kills the engine leaving you dead in the street. Emergency pressure hard! Other than that the brakes work great. Now if you push trans into neutral and brake hard as you will the engine is not effected and keeps on running. This is a automatic but it feels like you did not depress the clutch on stopping the car if it were a standard stick shift trans. There is a bucking at stopping then the engine is dead in the street. If you let up the brake before this kills the motor then it keeps running or if just light braking that is normal needed no problem. Other than that dangerous condition in city traffic the car runs great. This has to be a defect in design of the system never in 30+ years of auto mech trade have I run across this in any world brand name cars.
The engine shuts down whenever you brake suddenly or use any pressure to brake (not coast to a stop). The car shakes and then dies and you have to restart the car. This happens almost daily and after taking it to several shops it was determined that the torque converter is bad and needs to be replaced. There is a service bulletin out about fixing this so it appears to be a common problem. Even a quick search online produces hundreds of similar complaints for this make & model. Given that this can stall out at any speed with any pressure in applying the brakes with the torque converter, this should be an immediate recall for safety concerns!!! It's a faulty part on the car, not a wear & tear item.
1st incident 1/10/2014- leaving a stop light car would not accelerate and vdc, cel and brake light flashing. Sat on the side of the road for about 1/2 hour. Husband came to pick us up and tried starting the car. The car started and was able to drive w/o further issue. Check codes and had misfire cyc 1,2,3,4. Local mechanic could find nothing wrong cleared codes. Husband noticed both drl lights were blown. Replaced both and when the key was turned on (not started) heard a loud squealing electrical noise from the area of the alternator/power steering pump where the electrical harness is bolted to the top of the engine. Started the car and it drove fine for about 2 weeks. 2nd incident 1/14/2014 - pulling away from a friends house vdc and cel lights come on. Turn off car and sit for about 20 minutes. Start car all warning lights gone and car drove fine. Husband checked codes and found misfire cyc 1,2 only 3rd incident 1/30/2014 - leaving stop light and vdc light comes on and car will only go about 3 miles per hour enough to get it off road and engine stalls. No cel this time. Sit for about five minutes start car and it drives fine and all lights gone. Replaced the battery and had mechanic clean out the ABS brake sensors. Subaru america and our dealership where we bought the car are aware and can find nothing wrong.
This vehicle is hesitating from a start, posing a high risk of causing a serious accident when entering traffic. The hesitation occurs, on average, once every 300 miles under differing conditions. I have taken the vehicle to subaru service four times because of this problem. They state they can?t solve the issue because they can?t ?duplicate? It. I have informed them over and over again that it is an intermittent problem but they refused to keep the car long enough to duplicate the problem. I have asked subaru for a replacement but all they will offer is yet another appointment ?to attempt to duplicate the concerns?. In the meantime, I am forced to drive a vehicle with a serious safety problem, which occurs randomly without warning. This hesitation defect appears to be a common issue with this power train, placing numerous drivers at risk. Please see the following associated complaints: 10290805 10297490 10307668 10343600 10346037 10346648 10347133 10351374 10354541 10355908 10355908 10356951 10358243 10411748 10413779 10448621 10505368 10515376 thank you for your time.
This car is a subaru outback 2.5i manual 6spd transmission. While at a stop light with car idling, the RPM's get very low and car dies. Starts back up right away, but then after idling for 15-20 seconds, the car will die again. Concerned that this may happen while driving as I have read reports of many other models of the same car doing the same thing while driving. The dealer says there is nothing wrong and they will charge a ton of money to come back and tell me there is nothing wrong. It is a clear safety issue if the car cannot hold an idle and/or dies while driving.
My car just turned 17000 miles. I bought it new in 2011. It is garaged whenever not in use and have photos of it in the garage. The muffler and exhaust system are rusting very badly. I wash the car regularly when dirty. This should not be happening - there must be a defect in the type of materials used. I first noticed this back in june and it is getting worse. This should be replaced by subaru - I shouldn't need a new muffler/exhaust system on a new car in less than 20,000 miles! I have taken photos of the problem that I can provide if requested.
On manual air conditioning models with full maximum settings the system operates to full capacity, 39-41 degrees f.; however, after 10 minutes of operation without maximum setting changed the output temperature is reduced to 50-53 degrees f. Dealer serviced, indicated that this is normal operation for this make/model. The internal cabin temperature after one hour of operation will only achieve 82 f. When outside temperature is 92-94 degree f. With maximum setting; as well as, internal air circulation.
2011 subaru outback stalled while drive up in a parking ramp. Car was jerky while driving before stalling. It did start up again.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 subaru outback. While the contact was driving approximately 25 MPH, the vehicle began to jerk excessively with a loud clunking noise. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for diagnosis where the timing belt was replaced. Also, there was a replacement of the timing belt tensioner and pulleys. The manufacturer was notified and they planned to provide an additional investigation related to the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 2,052.
2011 subaru outback wagon - stalling problem. With clutch pedal depressed fully the engine stalled twice during a turn and coming to a stop sign. Lost power steering in corner - this is a safety issue!
Vehicle stalled out while in second gear. Lost all power, plus power steering and braking. This is the second time it has happened. It seems to happen shortly after turning vehicle on and air conditioning is on. This happened while I was about to make a turn. I quickly clutched and turned the vehicle back on to avoid crashing.
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