I purchased the car from an independent dealer with somewhere around 60k or 65k miles it now has around 80k miles and since the car has been purchased it has had one problem after the next. The electrical for the windows,mirrors,door locks,GPS system,head lights were not working properly. I received a fault warning that the outside running lights or headlights were not operating properly. I have noticed the check engine light on and took it to have it looked at which I was told obd code reads misfire #2 ignition coil. I had the parts replaced and codes cleared and still the light came back on reading the same fault code had it checked again and was told it is a new part and it has been replaced and he cannot figure why it would come back the same thing. The only explanation he had for me is there is an electrical problem or there is something wrong with the obd computer. Since then the car has had trouble cranking, stutters on take off, stalls at stop lights, I have had a loss of power immediately while on getting on the free way and the car said reduced engine power shut down and would not let me get over speeds of 20. I have smelt fuel when the AC was turned on. Has been numerous things one after the other. I was looking at numerous recalls for the electrical, the fuel pump,the lights,and now the air bags .and seat belt tensioners. I would like to find out if the car was ever brought in to be fixed from the recalls, or if the recalls expire. Cause I have not owned vehicle very long
2007 BMW 328I electrical complaints
Page 4 of 5: complaints 71 to 100 of 129, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 bmw 328i. While parked, the vehicle was not able to start and the key fob remained in the ignition. The contact mentioned shifting a red b.plus cable in order to start the vehicle. The failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed, but the cause of the failure was not found. The vehicle was not repaired. The VIN was not included in the federal safety agency campaign number: 13v044000 (electrical system). The manufacturer was made aware of failure. The failure mileage was 143,000.
This is an addition to our previous recall problems as all electrical shut off as well. Here are the additional documents to be added to public record that indeed 6 recalls were recorded to our registered VIN and yet was told bmw had no obligation to adhere to these documents?! Its also crazy that we have tons of documents and yet we are allowed to show a mbyte at a time. How convenient.
I was driving and my car completely shut off as I coasted down the road with absolutely no brakes at all. I was terrified. There was no electrical power to my car at all for all of 10 mins. I almost hit the car in front of me, swerving onto a side street to let my car coast until it stopped. My car has absolutely no cold crank. This is the 3rd time this has happened and no one can fix it.
Headlamp wiring insulation is flaking off. All insulation of all wires in both headlamps has totally deteriorated within eight years of manufacture leaving exposed wires creating potential short circuit and fire hazard. Bmw's solution is to buy another headlamp at $1,500 each which, presumably, will also deteriorate within the next seven to eight years!
This is the second time I am reporting this issue. A few years ago I was not able to open my doors caused by an obvious electrical issue. The dealership determined it was faulty actuators and they had to be replaced. It was a very expensive repair. This is a serious safety concerned to not be able to get in or out of your car to both the driver and passengers. After some research, it was determined this a known issue by bmw yet they refuse to do a recall. The issue has now happened again to me, and I am not able to open the drivers side door, not even with the key. I was in a parking lot and was almost left stranded until fortunately I was able to crawl in to get to drivers seat. I am very angry they are not taking serious safety concerns into consideration and doing a recall. This is not a cheap fix not to mention a threat to my safety and passengers. Bmw needs to step up and take responsibility. I will not be purchasing another bmw (this is my second). My first car had constant issue with check engine light that would not go away although no issue found which was unsettling to drive with. And now this car is having second experience with door failure. I will be purchasing a car that is safer next time!
After, I parked my car in the garage. (nothing out of the ordinary, daily routine, normal conditions). My car wouldn't start. It displayed a "power steering wheel locked" icon warning when I tried to start the ignition. The ignition spark wasnt there. The lights also dimmed as I tried to get started.
Driving at approximately 30mph passing vehicle allerted me of fire and smoke coming from my rear. As I slowed down flames and smoke increased. Smoke filled interior upon my exiting. Rear fire co0ntinued to burn until fire department. Dooused car with water. Police report taken. Car taken to repair shop and declared to expensive to repair.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 bmw 328i. While driving 70 MPH, the instrument panel warning indicators illuminated and the windshield wipers started to activate independently. The contact also stated that the ignition had difficulty switching into the on position. The contact also stated that the door locks would also work independently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000.
Tl* the contact owned a 2007 bmw 328i. The contact stated that both rear window regulators would prematurely wear and fail. The failure occurred on three separate occasions. The vehicle was repaired each time at the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 100,000.
I parked on my drive way normally with everything fine. The next day when trying to turn the car on, it wouldn't start and it gave me a steering wheel lock issue.
I was driving on an empty road when the car shut off completely, the cabin lost all power and the car went on black out mode. I began to press the brake but it was rough and unresponsive, I pulled the emergency brake to continue to stop slowly, once on the side of the road, I began to examine the vehicle, opened the battery compartment in the trunk of the vehicle and seemed to be fine, I popped the hood open, examined a little bit more for fluids or signs of over heating and was unsuccessful, called a tow truck, the driver tested the battery and said the battery was not taking the charge, so he towed me home, the next day I took the battery to the place I purchased it from since it was still under warranty, this battery had a 2 year warranty and was used for 8 months. I installed the battery and the power in the cabin and dash was reestablished, a warning light came on the dash shortly after I try to start the car and a clicking noise from where the fuse box is located, on the passenger side began. I pulled the key out, attempted to start the car again and an icon of a steering wheel and locked popped up, all in red. I ceased to attempt to start the car, I researched the following day and it seems like it had to be taken to the bmw dealer, on tuesday 4/22 the car was towed to the dealer, I was informed the battery was dead once again and that the issue was the steering column mechanism which was locked, they wanted to charge $1200 to perform the labor, apparently they reset the code and the car was turned on, once I realized the car was drivable and that there is no special coding to perform the job, I asked for the car to be released after paying $160. The vehicle has an electrical issue that causes the battery to put out higher voltage than the car needs and therefore causes the battery to malfunction.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 bmw 328i. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled on several occasions without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and it was determined that the battery connector needed to be replaced. The contact asked about the federal safety agency campaign number: 13v044000 (electrical system) but the manufacturer stated that the vehicle was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was unknown.
My wife and I have a 2007 bmw 328i. In 2010, we got in the vehicle and there was a steering wheel lock warning on the dash. We took it to get looked at and they stated it was a "fault code". We had the exact same experience in 2012 and 2014 with the same result, "fault code". We now have this icon warning again. This time we are told that the whole steering column will need to be replaced ($1200). According to many references, this is a common problem and bmw is aware of it. Also, according to several references, there is no warning or prediction when the steering wheel lock will fail in the locked position. If you are first getting into the vehicle and the steering wheel lock has failed in the locked position, it will not allow you to start the engine. The question that I have is whether the steering wheel lock can fail in the locked position while the vehicle is being driven. Apparently, this question has been raised by numerous people. I have asked this question to the dealership as well as several bmw websites. The results are, they don't know or the answers have been inconsistent and often contradictory. Aside from this particular problem being far too frequent to ignore by bmw, this appears to be a very real safety concern. Bmw continues to ignore this problem.
The door locks and central locking system are malfunctioning. Key fob will not unlock driver's door and other doors. Key must be used for entry. Bmw admits in bulletins that fuse amperage was designed improperly. Taken into dealership for repair, dealership claims that all four door latches need to be replaced at a cost of $1,490.00. Research indicates this is a systemic issue with bmws. Surprised that a recall has not been ordered given the serious safety issues involved.
The door locks on the front passenger and rear drivers side doors would not unlock and passengers had to climb out of the opposite sides of the vehicle.
Door locks would not open leaving me locked out of the car and stranded. Had to have the car towed 300 miles to get it back home where a bmw repair place was available. Had to replace both front door actuators at a cost of $600.00 just to get back inside my car. If a baby was trapped in the car it could of died by the time it was to get anyone to help get the doors open. The most dangerous design I've ever heard of. Interior door handles will not work and no way to get out of the car if it happened while I was inside.
The electrical door lock failed and prevented the driver's door to unlock from the inside causing the driver to be trapped inside the car. There is no manual way to unlock car door from inside.
Upon starting the car there was a rapid sound of the door locks, locking and opening several times and then stopped. The drivers door was locked and could not be opened from inside or outside. Checked all the fuses but none were blown. After online research did replace the #57 fuse with a 20 amp vs 15 as suggested but still not working. If you mess with it long enough it will unlock but the other doors will be locked. If I were to be in an accident and this happened , myself or the other occupants may not be able to exit the vehicle quickly enough to prevent harm to us. I believe this is a safety hazard and bmw should take some action to correct this, an override fix or other safety measure at their expense. This is a safety hazard in my view!
I was driving my bmw 328i 2007 and had passengers in the car. Apparently one of the door lock fuses blew. I am unable to unlock any of the passenger doors with the key fob nor from the inside of the car. I am able to open the driver's side door manually but that is it. In other words, the passengers in my car could not manually open their doors at all. They had to crawl through the driver side to exit the vehicle! Thank god I wasn't in an accident, there wasn't a fire. I'm now being told that bmw has to "run a full diagnostic" but there is no way to open any passenger doors of the vehicle for entrance or exit unless I potentially spend thousands of dollars on an electrical system issue. Seriously? Does this seem safe to the average person?
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 bmw 328 I. The contact stated while driving 30 MPH, the vehicle stalled and the service engine warning indicator illuminated. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to two different independent mechanics who were not able to duplicate the problem. The third time the failure occurred, the vehicle was taken to the dealer, who stated the failure was due to a defective eccentric shaft sensor which needed to be replaced. The contact was made aware of a recall under the federal safety agency campaign id number 13v044000 (electrical system), however, her VIN was not included. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 106,745. The VIN was not available.
Everything was fine. I hadn't noticed any changes except the cruise control would shut off by itself. Then I needed a jump and it took right away. The next time I needed a jump it wouldn't take. Took the battery to autozone and had it checked and it was fine. So realized it wasn't the battery. Id try to start the car but nothing happens not even a clicking noise nothing. But the lights still came on windows still rolled down radio even worked it just wouldn't start.
Driver door will not unlock or open. According to dozens of forum posts, it's a known issue. Very dangerous if this fails in an accident and can't get out of the car. Only way to get in and out is through window or passenger door. It is possible for all locks to fail and only way to get out would be from the windows. Even door handle can't open door.
The engine stalled at a low speed coming to a stop. This is the second time this has happened over the past week.
The vehicle automatically unrolls all windows and the moonroof whenever it rains. This is flooding and ruining the vehicle, and causing moisture to enter the electrical system and cause a significant fire hazard. There is a burning smell from the electrical system. The issue, which is well known on the blogosphere, is due to a faulty and improperly installed wiring harness (installed crooked), an electrical short in pins 18 and 19 for the door lock actuator, and improper moisture sealing for the harness and actuator. The manufacturer refuses to acknowledge or address the issue.
Locked in car due to failed door locks. Opened window to access manual door key but passenger crawled over to drivers side since this was the only way out.
At 65 MPH on freeway, suddenly lost power. Vehicle immediately slowed to about 10 MPH as I pulled off the freeway. Cars behind nearly ran me over. Drove slowly to bmw service who diagnosed "water pump short to ground" causing veh to lose power.
I was trapped inside my vehicle with the driver's side door unable to unlock. I could not use the manual door handle on the inside or out. The interior door open button located on the dashboard would not unlock the driver's side door. The key fob would not unlock it. I finally had to maneuver across the center console and slide out through the passenger door. I was scared and frustrated. It was dark and in an empty parking lot.
Several times throughout the day after the car was parked, it was difficult to start and he battery indicator came on a few times. The final time after driving from connecticut to queens ny, I was in a friends driveway after dropping them off from the airport, the car would not start even thought the lights were working. Eventually all power was lost. I had to have car pushed out if the driving and on to the street. Also to note earlier I was charging my cell phone, but it stopped charging. I went and purchase a new charged (USB adaptor) which did not work either, but worked when I hooked it up to the computer. The tow truck person was not able to get the car started with a jump, and indicated that it appeared to be an electrical issues. I reviewed the internet to see what the problem could be since my car has such low milage, and noticed there was a recall on my vehicle year and model from february 2013. I don't know if this is the same, but it sounds similar.
Brakes go out a lot front and rear on both my bmws , and passengers rear door locks stop working on both my bmw's 2006 325, and 328i 2007. Windows on both right rear doors work when they want to. I've been telling the bmw dealer about these things and all they say is what it will cost me to fix. I even told them about the electrical problems on both my cars and they had me pay for it, then later I find out it is a recall. But didn't get money back for me paying to get it fixed. Same thing about the brakes , both my bmws been in the shop more then 30 times or more apiece. Can someone help.
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