I have brought my vehicle to chevy and was advised that they could not find anything wrong with the traction control or the radio. Every so often the traction control light comes on and states that the traction control needs to be serviced when the vehicle is running idle for more than 30 seconds. When that comes on the radio blinks on and off. In the past two weeks, the vehicle had to get jumped twice. Took the vehicle to get tested at two different auto stores and was advised after they tested the battery that the battery was good. I am frustrated that they cannot find anything wrong with it yet it is on the brink of not working every other day. In addition, the vehicle was not able to go up a small hill after the snow had fallen. I had to get assistance. This is not acceptable.
2012 Chevrolet Captiva Sport electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 46, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Having numerous issues. The first one is that the ignition when switched to off will not release the key. Does not turn all the way to release the key out. Had it swapped out and still having the same issue. Something about a release inside the colum that will not fully disengage second issue is that my car will lock as well as unlock its self. The car can be off and parked or even driving down the road. The hatch release as well will disengage and pop open. Took it to shops and dealers.
Stability control and break warning constantly..had breaks completely repaired twice within the 2 years of purchasing it..only has 160,000 miles. Lighting wiring issue malfunction.
While driving - or even sitting still - radio and clock will shut off, "service stabilitrack light" illuminates on dash with the message showing on the message center dash display. After 5 seconds or so, it disappears; however occurs often but no consistent (sometimes none at all, some times 4 or so times in a 20mi drive). Battery and alternator are brand new (alternator has been replaced twice in 12 months). Vehicle is owned outright and has 142,000+ miles.
1. After driving to any locations, for example, grocery stores, train station parking lot in my neighborhood, the key would not come out of the ignition, but shut down the engine. Then after 15-30 minutes, there is always a click, and once I turned the key , it starts the car suddenly. This has occurred twice the past few months, and my chevyl dealership had worked on this issue. Yet, it has started curring again the past 2 days 07/19/2020, after they worked on it since12/04/2019. 2. There is also a jump surge when slowing down to stop when traffic is moving slowly, and as I tried to drive forward or when turning from a stop sign.
Initially the issue presented as occasional brake light outage. Soon after this became permanent. It also affects the reverse lights making it so that they're always on, even when the car isn't running. In addition, the interior lights (doors and overhead) are affected and no longer work. The backup camera had to be removed because the wiring burnt out. Also the sunroof has stopped working. Front right turn signal also stopped working. It was no longer safe to drive around mid-march 2019. I had to take it in to a auto electric specialist twice starting april 2019. After all this, it was diagnosed as needing a new harness and total rewire and a body control module and programming. Apparently this is a common issue with this vehicle and I was told I would be better off cutting my losses and starting over with a different car. Dates are approximate.
Car has random times it wont start. Now my radio cuts in and out while driving. Lights flash on and off
After driving and parking, the vehicle at the store. The vehicle constantly looses all power and will not start and there are no warning signs. Keys will lock in the ignition, remote start deprograms, the car has no power. Positive battery cable is extremely hot and second-degree burns are on hand when touched. Replaced battery, positive battery cable, and 1 week later the problem started again. No problem with the starter, alternator. No loose wires and there is no electrical shortage. Researched the problem on the internet and this appears to be a common problem with this type of vehicle. The battery will not charge from a jump. No power to the car and you are stranded for hours waiting for the positive battery cable to cool down. After hours of waiting the car starts up with no problem, but will do the same thing again when turned off. Nothing is left on to drain the power from the car. This is happening constantly after driving.
Tl* the contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contact stated that when the vehicle was first purchased the key failed to operate as designed. Additionally, with the vehicle stopped and the gear shifter in the park position, the vehicle continued moving. The contact shifted the vehicle into reverse and activated the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to bowser chevrolet of monroeville (1600 golden mile hwy, monroeville, pa 15146) to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the gear shifter need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.
Key keeps getting stuck in the ignition 75% of the time I try to shift it off. It wont shut all the way off either. It just goes to acc. Seems like a very very common issue. This needs a recall and gm should have to pay for it. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Key sticks in ignition
Stalled, slowed speed, stopped. Will not restart
Electrical problem. Will not start after turning off. 3rd time
Serious electrical issues causes SUV to shut down with little to no warning. All lights on dash light up, rpms go to 0 car shuts off. This has happened multiple times, car can't be steered away from traffic and the hazard lights are dead. Key can't be removed from ignition. Completely dead vehicle.new batteries, new alternators and multiple mechanics can't find the problem. Disconnect battery cables, recharge the battery and it runs for a few months. No one can tell us the issue and we are stuck with no recalls and lots of people have the same dangerous issue. Car is drivable today but to dangerous to put my family in anymore. Are they waiting for someone to die before a recall is issued?
Many times this car has just died while driving. Oil and battery are good. I have had to replace the timing chain. There now seems to be a problem with a fuel pump or sensor causing the car to die. I am taking it to a mechanic this week. Currently not driveable. I have had so many problems out of this car. Great look on the outside, but it being a general motors car, there are many problems. I think they should have had a recall on this by now. I will do my best to file complaints and submit proof. Not a durable car.
When driving down street or even in a parked position the SUV won't start. No lights, no audio. Cannot remove key. Unable to engage alarm. Radio on & off intermittently; triggered by using hazards, turn signals, hi-beams, cruise control. Also, 'service traction control', 'ABS', and a capital 'p' with wrench icon flicker intermittently in the dash panel. 'check engine' light appears periodically but eventually clears. Suv has died simply driving in traffic with the above symptoms. All fuses in engine compartment and interior fuse panel are in tact. After wiggling the battery harness, SUV will respond positively.
Constantly loses power regardless of new batteries, battery cables, and many other repairs. Have been struggling with this for 4 years. Vehicle has been taken to chevy house multiple times but even they don't know what is happening. There is a lengthy forum I have followed with other captiva owners having the same problem without any luck. No recalls have been issued regardless of driver and passenger safety being put at risk time and time again and countless dollars spent on failed repairs.
Key will not go past accessory when trying to shut off. Took to dealer, it's an arm that is not engaging in shifter when placing in park.
Radio would turn off while driving, service traction control message light and chimes, would go off, interior lights would dim out vehicle would turn over but not start, engine light would not stay on however was able to get auto store to pull codes when light was on. Talked to dealership advised to replace battery and key fob as one code had to do with vehicle thinking wrong key was used. Replaced battery and key fobs seemed to be okay for 2 months. Then today when putting window down to get mail the radio turned off, service traction controls lights started going off again and air blower cut out (this started when vehicle put in park) noticed when this was happening that voltage on battery would drop. Took to auto store and they checked battery it was fine. But when air was on and window would be put down it would recreate the same problem (vehicle was in park). Auto store said could be a short. After testing battery and it was good the air was turned off and window being put down would not cause any issues. Only seems to happen when air was on. There seems to be numerous complaints regarding these types off electrical occurrences for this vehicle type. Also have had issues with a surge when driving vehicle. Had different transmission and power train things looked at from dealership that have improved it but not fully corrected. Seems to have gotten even a little better after battery replaced but still occurs to the point where it shifts hard and surges the car forward.
Kills on highway and in town, check engine light comes on then off in about 15-30 minutes, key gets stuck in ignition when it do kills, no indicator, radio switches like it's going crazy sometimes for days and weeks, I've brought 3 batteries since march 10,2017 when I started financing this vehicle, replaced battery cables and problem still reoccurring, alternator replaced and now giving trouble again, something is making the pressure in my tires extremely low, lights dim, dashboard lights flickering, inside lights comes on sometimes, sometimes everything shuts down on this vehicle, when stationary vehicle idles and hesitant, when in motion vehicle idiles, hesitant, misses, and kills. On the highway the vehicle idles, missed, shaky, hesitant , and kills with no indication very dangerous afraid my kids and I will lose our life in this vehicle!!! When turning vehicle is hesitant, sometimes lose power, and misses. Sometimes the vehicle will not go pass 45 MPH, when taking off vehicle idles so high and loud, radio displays device not supported when nothing is plugged up, radio time always resets when the vehicle looses power, popping sound under the hood when the key is stuck in ignition when vehicle looses all power, this vehicle is not dependable and very dangerous!!! All these defects are reoccurring issues and problems. This is scary, I would've never financed this vehicle, never, however I don't understand how my dealer ship allowed this piece of crap at their yard and allowed me to get this vehicle, I've spent my entire savings repairing things on this vehicle only for it reoccur in no time, I need a dependable vehicle is all I'm asking, if I don't work my family won't eat, then we'll end up homeless please help!!! Recall this dangerous vehicle and/or make it right!!!
Key gets stuck and warning lights come on and go .if you can get car to turn off it won'tstart back up.
Transitioning from low beam to high beam would cause radio and associated controls/display to go out completely. Fix parking break and onboard emissions control sensor light would go on/off intermittently over the course of several weeks, sometimes flickering and other times staying on for a few hours. Drove car 1.5 hrs and turned off for 1/2 hr, when came back it was completely dead and key stuck in ignition. Few min later it started. When brought to dealership they said there were 18 error codes and 1 was for ECM and 1 for bcm. They replaced both. Car was 100% fine for 6 days. Then, cruise control would turn off when a call came in over bluetooth, radio and associated controls and display would go out completely when using turn signal. Various dash panel lights would come on signifying repairs needed. A couple times car wouldn't start - was 100% dead - couldn't even open trunk, door locks or get lights to come on. Key would be stuck in the on position and I couldn't get it out. After about 45 min power randomly turned on.
The ignition switch won't turn completely off and the keys won't come out of the ignition. Gm published a letter and has fixed other vehicles, butsome have had to pay the cost. This is a know problem, it can be a safety issue and should have been fixed by the manufacturer. This problem has been ongoing for mare than a year.
Intermittently the radio first cuts off, then panel lights come on (traction control, check engine lights) turn signal lights work, but no sound. You lose power to car and cannot even take the key out of the ignition. After some time, you can finally get the key out. Sometimes it's minutes, sometimes it's hours. This started happening a few weeks ago, happening few times a week. Now, it's happening daily, even few times a day. We found a chevy forum online and shockingly this is happening to 2012 captiva's. Why is this not a recall? This can be fatal to lose power to the car if we are on the highway and lose function of the vehicle
Unable to remove key from ignition when vehicle is in park. This is happening more and more frequently. Started about 6 months ago. Normally you have to run through the gears several times or restart. Now it's much harder and takes longer to get the key out. Also, there are significant electrical issues. We replaced a the battery and still have the following problems: the parking brake light turns on, stability-track light comes on, A/C goes on and off and blinkers, cruise and all dash lights come on and off while driving, as well as radio going on and off. When this got really bad, I unhooked the battery and then everything seemed to reset and was good for about 2 weeks but started again. This started about 2 months ago but the battery was replaced about 6 months ago
Can not remove key when vehicle is in park most of the times now
The check engine light came on and would not go off. After having it checked by a local certified mechanic, it went off but came back on days later. The car would not start and I could not get the key out of the switch. I called aaa and had it towed to victory chevrolet in charlotte, n.c. They kept the car for over one week and kept looking for something until they replaced most of my electrical parts. When I asked how much this would cost, I was asked if I had a price in mind. I said, "I don't want to pay thousands of dollars." he said, "you have a lot of problems." he continued to find more?? And began to tell me a number of things. Three years ago, I had a trailer hitch installed and he tried to blame my problems on that. I have never used the hitch and have never had any trouble with the folks who installed it, as I have done business with them in the past. After a period of over one weeks time, the service man called me with a price for the repairs of almost 2500 dollars. I feel this was an excessive amount and feel that they were milking me for whatever they could get. The steering wheel would also lock up and not allow me to take the key from the ignition, causing me to have it towed earlier to the dealership. I feel robbed by the dealership and will never go back there for anything. I will find another kind of car for my personal and business life. I was happy with my captiva when I bought it and bragged about it to everyone but all of that has changed . We researched this car and found many complaints on your web-sight. Why has this problem not been corrected or recalled? I have always been a chevrolet person, preferring them over others but will consider some other car in the future. Is this your fault? I think so and hope you will correct the problem in the near future.
Cannot remove key when car is turned off. Have to restart the car to get the key out. I see this in an ongoing problem with chevrolets of all models!
Key sticks in ignition and will not come out when in park. At times car will not even shut off. Ignition was replaced under warranty. Less than 3,000 miles and it is doing it again. Key will not come out of ignition unless you restart the car. Have moved the shifter and steering wheel and pushed the key in as advised by dealership. Still not working. Also, stablitrack and traction control lights come on periodically while driving, causing the car to jump and buck. Dealership advised to turn off traction control, but while the lights are on and the car is jerking, you cannot deactivate. Dealership says it is an engine misfire problem but not significant enough to warrant taking car apart to fix.
Tl* the contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving 40 MPH, the parking brake light continued to activate and the cruise control cut off when the blinker was activated, which disengaged the cruise control and slowed down the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 36,000.
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