2012 Chevrolet Captiva Sport: won't start

Filed Oct 13, 2021 · Engine · 125,379 miles · FL · fire

The contact owns a 2012 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that while his engine was off, the vehicle had caught fire and burned out on its own. The contact discovered the failure upon the entrance of the vehicle and saw smoke within the cabin. The vehicle would not start and was towed to the dealer. The contact was then informed that the climate control module had caused a fire within the vehicle and the module was replaced. After the repair, the check engine light would intermittently illuminate on the dashboard. The contact took the vehicle to Bob Tyler Toyota(7201 Pensacola Blvd, Pensacola, FL 32505) where they diagnosed the vehicle with engine failure. The manufacturer was notified and the contact was given a case number. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was 125,379

Filed Jul 11, 2020 · Engine · 108,270 miles · IL

On 2/20/19 the check engine light came on and car was idling rough and making a chugging sound. Mileage on car at this point was 108,270. Car was taken to auto zone where the code p0016 was pulled referencing a camshaft issue according to the employee. When I checked the oil, it showed below the minimum level and so I put 1 qt. Of oil per the owner's manual. After I added 1 qt. Of oil, car seemed to run much more smoothly. I scheduled an appointment to get the oil changed. Oil was changed at mileage 108832. On 5/1/19 car was idling rough and making chugging sound. Checked oil level and found that it was bone dry on the stick and I added 1 qt of oil per the owner's manual. Exhibiting same symptoms of the issue referenced on tsb # 13-06-01-003h, same issue I had with my 2012 equinox which has the same type of engine as this captiva (2.4l ecotec). Mileage was 111,215 when this occurred. I then took my car in to a gm dealer to have oil changed and requested an oil consumption test and they changed the oil/filter at mileage 111,252. Over the next year we changed the oil at 115,874 miles, 118,744 miles, 122,106 miles. There were a handful of times where I had to add 1 qt. Of oil to the car per the owner's manual because it became low on oil. Then on 6/10/20 the car died in traffic and it was able to be started again. It was driven less than 5 miles to a firestone where 3 qt of oil had to be added as engine was bone dry. Oil was changed next day at 125,919 miles. Then on 7/9/20 the car died on the road and would not start again. Had the car towed to a firestone where the technician said that metal shavings were found in the engine oil and it was believed to be from timing chain issue. Low engine oil caused from oil consumption issue can cause those parts to wear and metal shavings contaminate engine oil. New engine is needed, mileage 126,825.

Filed Jul 3, 2020 · Driver assistance, Electrical · 94,000 miles · ID

Car has random times it wont start. Now my radio cuts in and out while driving. Lights flash on and off

Filed May 28, 2020 · Driver assistance, Electrical · 76,000 miles · TX · 3 injuries

After driving and parking, the vehicle at the store. The vehicle constantly looses all power and will not start and there are no warning signs. Keys will lock in the ignition, remote start deprograms, the car has no power. Positive battery cable is extremely hot and second-degree burns are on hand when touched. Replaced battery, positive battery cable, and 1 week later the problem started again. No problem with the starter, alternator. No loose wires and there is no electrical shortage. Researched the problem on the internet and this appears to be a common problem with this type of vehicle. The battery will not charge from a jump. No power to the car and you are stranded for hours waiting for the positive battery cable to cool down. After hours of waiting the car starts up with no problem, but will do the same thing again when turned off. Nothing is left on to drain the power from the car. This is happening constantly after driving.

Filed Sep 12, 2019 · Driver assistance, Electrical · 148,000 miles · IL

Electrical problem. Will not start after turning off. 3rd time

Filed Mar 1, 2019 · Driver assistance, Electrical · 99,000 miles · FL

When driving down street or even in a parked position the SUV won't start. No lights, no audio. Cannot remove key. Unable to engage alarm. Radio on & off intermittently; triggered by using hazards, turn signals, hi-beams, cruise control. Also, 'service traction control', 'ABS', and a capital 'p' with wrench icon flicker intermittently in the dash panel. 'check engine' light appears periodically but eventually clears. Suv has died simply driving in traffic with the above symptoms. All fuses in engine compartment and interior fuse panel are in tact. After wiggling the battery harness, SUV will respond positively.

Filed Aug 21, 2018 · Engine · 100,000 miles · TN

Stopped running suddenly.I had driven this vehicle and it was running fine. Shut it off came back in about 4 hours and it would not start. Had it towed to garage for repairs...timing belt broken at approx 100,000 mile.

Filed Jun 3, 2018 · Electrical, Engine · 108,200 miles · NH

Transitioning from low beam to high beam would cause radio and associated controls/display to go out completely. Fix parking break and onboard emissions control sensor light would go on/off intermittently over the course of several weeks, sometimes flickering and other times staying on for a few hours. Drove car 1.5 hrs and turned off for 1/2 hr, when came back it was completely dead and key stuck in ignition. Few min later it started. When brought to dealership they said there were 18 error codes and 1 was for ECM and 1 for bcm. They replaced both. Car was 100% fine for 6 days. Then, cruise control would turn off when a call came in over bluetooth, radio and associated controls and display would go out completely when using turn signal. Various dash panel lights would come on signifying repairs needed. A couple times car wouldn't start - was 100% dead - couldn't even open trunk, door locks or get lights to come on. Key would be stuck in the on position and I couldn't get it out. After about 45 min power randomly turned on.

Filed Aug 11, 2016 · Electrical · 40,500 miles · NC

The check engine light came on and would not go off. After having it checked by a local certified mechanic, it went off but came back on days later. The car would not start and I could not get the key out of the switch. I called aaa and had it towed to victory chevrolet in charlotte, n.c. They kept the car for over one week and kept looking for something until they replaced most of my electrical parts. When I asked how much this would cost, I was asked if I had a price in mind. I said, "I don't want to pay thousands of dollars." he said, "you have a lot of problems." he continued to find more?? And began to tell me a number of things. Three years ago, I had a trailer hitch installed and he tried to blame my problems on that. I have never used the hitch and have never had any trouble with the folks who installed it, as I have done business with them in the past. After a period of over one weeks time, the service man called me with a price for the repairs of almost 2500 dollars. I feel this was an excessive amount and feel that they were milking me for whatever they could get. The steering wheel would also lock up and not allow me to take the key from the ignition, causing me to have it towed earlier to the dealership. I feel robbed by the dealership and will never go back there for anything. I will find another kind of car for my personal and business life. I was happy with my captiva when I bought it and bragged about it to everyone but all of that has changed . We researched this car and found many complaints on your web-sight. Why has this problem not been corrected or recalled? I have always been a chevrolet person, preferring them over others but will consider some other car in the future. Is this your fault? I think so and hope you will correct the problem in the near future.

Filed Apr 8, 2014 · Electrical · 35,947 miles · TX

I bought the SUV in dec. 2013. Since this time the car has failed to start twice. Each time I had the battery boost and the car started. I have taken the truck into munday cheverlot. Chevy auto mechanics and others have said my battery is good and they do not know why this is happening. When the SUV does not start I cannot remove the key. I try to start the cars and nothing happens. When this happens I try to remove the key and I cannot. The key switch will not go to the lock position therefore I cannot remove the key. The representative at the dealership told me I am not suppose to be able to remove the key in this type of situation. No one can tell me why or what to do when this problem occurs.