My 2016 chevrolet cruze is only 4 years old. I had to replace the thermostat and after a inspection. The (vvt) variable valve timing when trying to start my car, it would click but wouldn't turn over all lights and power was on but car would not start. Also, my engine light was on and and the metal wire ring inside of the starter was completely broken in half.and had to be replaced
2016 Chevrolet Cruze electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 59, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Check engine light came on I paid out of pocket for 3 different diagnostics for them to say they fixed it and still have this problem. Car goes in stability track and reduced engine power wont drive over 5mph this is the same problem I see numerous other people with this car are complaining about why are you guys not investigating or recalling this engine because it's clearly a manufacturer issue
I purchased a 2016 chevrolet cruze with an auto stop feature. The vehicle was purchased as a used vehicle in august of 2019. At the time of purchase, it had 70,000 miles on it. Less than two month into having the vehicle, the car started shutting off each time I came to a complete stop. The only way to get the car moving again was by placing it in park and restarting the vehicle. This issue occurs in all settings including city streets and highways. I have to be in traffic in order for the issue to present itself on the highway. The issue presents itself on the street anytime I stop at a light, stop sign, or yield to oncoming traffic. It has done this hundreds of times to date. I took the car to a chevrolet dealership in october of 2019 shortly after the issue began. A representative explained that this happened because the auto-stop component wasn't able to receive enough power to stay on. I had the component replaced out of pocket, since my warranty didn't cover. The same day I drove the vehicle home, the issue persisted. Since then, I have also had the battery replaced. As of november 2020, the car is still experiencing the same issues, coupled with a check engine light that comes on and goes off each time restart the vehicle. The technicians have not been able to properly diagnose this vehicle's issue after multiple visits. Much of my time and money has been wasted trying to fix a vehicle with no active recalls. This is also the second time I am filing a complaint with the federal safety agency.
Negative battery cable shorted out, failing a main fuse and the starter. Car turned off while driving down I-5. We were able to get the car to restart one time, then once we were to a safe place to pull over turned off the car and the electrical in the car would not turn off (stereo, lights, etc..) push button start in car. Once we finally got everything to turn off the car would not start again and was towed to the repair shop.
High-mount stop light leaking again after recall repair. Screw mounting high mount stop light has backed out again causing leaking onto the headliner and water collecting in the battery tub. Dealer refuses to cover cost of fixing it due to "work warranty" lapsed. Extended warranty refuses to cover it as it is classified as a 'trim piece' even though it is required by d.o.t. I shouldn't have to pay to have this fixed again as it's already a known issue that was recalled once before and their 'fix' obviously didn't work.
The whole engine went out and the auto repair shop that I took it too is saying the whole engine needs to be replaced. I'm also not the only who is having this problem with this car. What is going on is that the engine is always overheating and having problems.
I was in a crash on july 27,2020,pm hours.I was driving straight on interstate,it began raining,I slowed down & adjusted traction control/stability control setting.the car veered to the right for some reason,I got car back in straight motion,then in a split second,it shot to the left of the road way.I tried gaining control,to get back in the correct lane,and the car ran into the guardrail in trying to get control of it. I do not think that the rate of speed,nor weather,were the only reasons for this accident. Prior to this crash,months before,at various times,and and for no reason, the service power steering,at times the service traction control,and at times the service stability message would appear,only for a split couple of seconds,at random times. The check engine light was on,and a prior certified mechanic diagnosed it as bank 1 catalyct concerter clogged. We,were trying to get the vehichle re-diagnosed by a different mechanic shop,at the time frame this accident happened,but,covid 19,made things to difficult to arrange and plans were in progress to have it checked asap.I beleive the vehichle had a malfunction and hope to get the sensors,computers,relays or any other checked out by you,not only gm. Every airbag along doors of car deployed.but, the steering wheel airbag did not. My head hit either the steering wheel or windsheild. I had a blow to my head. If all other airbags deployed,then I feel steering wheel bag should have also. This is serious malfunctions. There were problems from this car from day 1. Things went wrong way before expected time for. Such as heatercore, ignition coil,coolant leaks, thermostat housing outlet, driver door window & motor,all of most went bad before 80,000 miles.even electrical such as door chime,lights not working at correct time. Air bag malfunction LED to my head being hurt.thank you.
I just purchased this car and several times while I'm driving on the freeway the radio shuts of then turns back on numerous times. Then I usually get a stability's error message. Then the best part. The power steering will completely go out while changing lanes or in mid turn. I have been driving through a round about and also while making sharp turns to get on and off the freeway. This is so dangerous! I see that so many people are reporting the same exact problem! Something needs to be done about this! I called onstar 3 times in one trip. First it disconnects because all electrical components shut off, then they actually told me I have to wait to call them back while I am losing my steering. Only to conclude they can only help after I am in an accident. When this is not going on the car runs great and I love it so it is obviously some kind of manufacture defect.
After repairing the coolant system car, I drove it around the block to ensure it was working properly. Upon doing so, all gauges stopped working. I also put the car in reverse to park it in the driveway and the transmission would not go into the selected gear. We had to put the car into neutral and push it into the driveway. Also, all notification lights were also lit at the time. When it finally shifted into drive the car jerked very hard.
Car stalls out after auto stop is disengaged. Battery is dead car wont start even tho battery has power. Door locks lock and unlock on there own. Touch screen flickers.
Tl* the contact owns a 2016 chevrolet cruze. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the home screen became inoperable. The contact stated that the power steering ceased and the stabilitrak warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed nor repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000.
While driving, the car radio has cut out multiple times while 'service stabilitrack' has been displayed on the dash. The battery was replaced and the issues continued. This is mainly seen while slowing down or stopping at a red light. The lack of power to the car threatens safety as my turn signals failed to work and I lost power steering on one occasion. I personally researched this issue through online forums and found out that many others share the same problem. The result may be a faulty negative battery connection.
I purchased a used vehicle from atlanta luxury motors at kia south on august 11, 2019. I purchased this vehicle as-is, but no mechanic claims to have found any issues at the time of inspection. The vehicle is a 2016 chevrolet cruze and only had 70,000 miles on it at the time of purchase. About two weeks after purchase, the engine cut off after the auto-stop initiated and the check engine light came on. I had to restart the vehicle in order to get out of the road. Since then, the number of times the engine has cut off has increased immensely. As of october 29, 2019, my engine cuts off anytime the car falls into auto-stop. Today it happened eight times during one forty-five minute commute.
While driving on highways or city streets the car just shuts off at random times. No check engine light or any lights are on the dashboard before it happens. Once car has shut off, we can put it in park turn the key off and back on. It has been happening more frequently.
When the vehicle goes into auto shut off at a stop sign or during traffic jams where I am just stopped by my brake but not in park it fails to restart and shuts the engine completely off. I have to quickly put it in park and press the button to start the engine in order to go.
The driver information center, speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, temp gauge, and touchscreen display quit working this morning on our '16 cruze. Car starts and runs fine but know way of knowing our speed or what gear it's in. Persists through battery disconnect.
Onstar module failed at approximately 53,500 miles, taken to dealership at 54,542 miles, gm part number 84024907, not covered by warranty, onstar safety system will not work.
Whenever my car is turn off for 2hrs or more the vehicle will not start, unless I use a start jumper box.
Car stalls at intersections. The auto stop feature goes from "auto stop" on the dash to "off". Problem occurs as you are moving foot over from brake to gas and causes the car to turn off. Have to put car in park and completely restart the engine by turning the car off and then back on. Typically happens when in an intersection/at a stop sign and have to come to a complete stop. Has happened before in many settings- city stop light, city stop sign, highway traffic, highway stop sign, etc. Super unsafe because car is unable to move and shut off in the middle of the road for about 10 seconds. Happens at least 1 time a day. Many other chevrolet cruze users have been posting in forums that it has happened to them as well. Could cause accidents. Makes the driver feel unsafe and uneasy every time they get in the car to drive because there is a fear that it will stall out/break down at every intersection or stop that is made throughout the drive.
Car entertainment system intermittently cuts out while driving, error message will briefly flash on screen. The problem was identified as a faulty negative battery cable. The same problem was present in 2011-2015 cruze's and chevy issued a special coverage adjustment for those model years. See bulletin 14311b. I experienced the exact same issues, and the fix by the mechanic was the same fix. Why isn't chevy covering later model years?
I have had issues with engine losing power or staling without warning. No warning lights will come on before hand. I first started experience issue in july 2018, the engine stalled at stop light; the vehicle was repaired and returned in august. The issue returned in oct, at this time it staled going threw intersection which almost resulted in a wreck. Dec it loss power while going down hey I pulled to side and had car pulled in. Last week it stalled while going down highway had no power, I called dealership and chevy and was giving an appointment to bring it in. Itis currently in the shop for the same issues. I have made several complaints to chevolet and dealership with no results. The car is being service at paris texas chevolet (903) 784-7446 for the 4th time.
"takata recall" car randomly looses power and shuts off while driving on freeway, electrical outlets won't work, stabilization warning appear, battery leaks acid.
Engine is knocking clicking and rocking. Acting like it's going to stall stationary. Engine light on, traction control light on and all start does not work. All came on at the same time.
Takata recal the engine shutdown completely without a reason, gas tank all the sudden is empty and the wheels locked and shutdown.
2016 chevy cruze ltz faulty battery negative cable causing battery corrosion, while driving car has power steering errors (loss of stable steering capabilities), traction system errors, reduced vehicle power, problems with cruise control (speeds up by itself). Contacted gm and informed them of this issue. They denied coverage, despite having identified the same safety issues with the 2011-2015 models.
It doesn't happen all the time but every few days passenger side doors stay it's open whether I'm driving or sitting still. The locks will try to lock when they are already locked and the door warning sign goes off. Also if my front tire needs air the back tire warning sign will go off and vice versa. The first time I realized this I had put air in the front tire but the light stayed on for the back tire. When I put air I the front tire the back tire warning sign went out. Today the radio went out but the screen didn't cut off. The car is parked and keys are not in the ignition but the radio screen is still lit up. Updated 11/9/18
I purchased my vehicle last year in late september. On september 22nd this year I had to have a piston job performed on my engine due to the cylinder #1 misfiring. The tow that aaa provided and my mechanic where my car was towed to both told me at separate times that my AC being on made the problem with my engine worsen. My mechanic actually told me to not turn on my AC as I was driving it out of his garage to take to a chevy dealer. An advisor at the dealer informed me that the two, the engine and the AC, are apart from each other and the AC should not be affecting the engine in this manner. After the labor on my car was complete I immediately notice the same rough shake within the engine and the loud sound coming from the area where the AC is housed that sounds like someone is knocking on a door or playing drums or even as if a train is going by on the tracks. This would happen every time I turned my AC or heat on whether I was stationary, in motion, on a city street, or highway. I was so accustomed to this that I had never thought it may be abnormal because I never had a vehicle with auto stop, which is what I first thought I was experiencing. The piston job was a $6,000 job. Fortunately, I did not have to pay that amount. My car was at 61,263 miles when I had to get it serviced. I truly believe that this issue is a safety risk now being that it is straining on the engine and possibly the reason why the cylinder #1 failed for no reason when my car is maintained and not neglected.
Door ajar sensor goes off while driving, parked cause alarm system to go off. Door locks go back and forth while driving. Dome lights go off and on.
My door ajar alarm goes off not stop when car is in motion after 3 mins the locks try to unlock and lock going down the road and the dome lights flash on and off. My alarm system goes off every 10 to 20 min in the middle of the night or day so you cant set your alarms and all order for the part are on back order. The door sensor triggers the most when making a hard right turn. Moving parked or sitting I drive the sensor still alarms out
The car first started having issues with switching gears. Going into and out of drive specifically. Wouldn't even budge. Dealership said it must be something sticky spilled in gears. Have had no spills in that area. Soon after this visit my car would turn off in stop and go traffic. Dealership said they couldn't replicate the issue so they couldn't tell me what it was. Now, not much later than the last visit, my car is shutting off on the interstate, every light inside car (door open lights, radio lights, A/C lights, dash lights) are dimming and brightening or turning on and off on their own, windows roll up and down on their own, A/C shuts on and off or will change vents on its own, burglar system detection goes off when trying to start the car, and car won't start after being off for 20-30 minutes without a jump. Three different places have used battery and code readers and cannot find an issue. My battery, starter, and alternator are in great condition. Every place except the dealership has told me it's a "major electrical issue that needs to be fixed asap." car is still under warranty. Has had all work aside from the readings done at dealership. They say they can't find out the issue. This is the third time within 4 months that my car issues have been avoided by the dealership and I have been told they can't replicate what I'm dealing with when they test drive it so they can't help me. It is a danger to me and any other driver around me when my car suddenly shuts off at 70 MPH and I have to try to pull over to park my car to try to start it again. Clicking and zapping sounds can also be heard from under or behind my engine that should not be there. Was told at the dealership if they can't figure it out they would have to send me home with my vehicle... Still doing all these things. I have been the only owner and driver, under 20k miles on vehicle, no mods added.
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