I have a loud ticing noise coming from the left rear of the engine. While I was pulling my 5th wheel the noise kept getting louder and louder and had loss of power. By the time we got to the camp ground it sounded like I had lost my mufler. We took it to muffler man of ludington and they discovered that 4 exhaust manifold bolts had sheared off, 2 on left year and 2 on right rear of both manifolds. They took the manifolds off and replaced all the bolts with new ones except for the very left rear was sheared off flush and could not get a drill in to drill out and tap. In order for them to get this out they would have to pull the head which would have cost $1000.00. They put it back together and the tic was gone. This only cost me 6 hours of vacation with my family and $200.00. The tic has returned.
1999 Chevrolet Silverado engine complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 64, newest first, as owners wrote them.
This is the first new vehicle we have ever bought. But not a good expreience, we have always had gm products with no problems. We just had the truck in the garage and they put it on the computer, it said code po137 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 replace also code po300 misfire #7 cylinder replace injector and fuel pressure regulator. This cost 448.78. Also po300 misfire #7 cylinder replace injector and fuel pressure regulator and code po463 fuel level sensor needs fuel sensor replaced at a cost of 301.00. We can't afford this at this time. They also said both front wheel bearings with speed sensors need replaced at a cost of 642.00. We can't have this done now either. We are going to try to get along with the brake failure long enough to save money to fix. We replaced the battery sept 11th at a cost of 65.00 and an alighment in june at a cost of 47.00 and rear brake rotors and pads replaced in july at a cost of 279.00. We had thought of trading or selling outright and getting another truck, but can't sell it as it is.
The gas pedal sticks. I have to clean my throttle body out with cleaner about every 1000 miles. Even after a cleaning it still sticks a little. This is a safety concern, because I have to use more pressure on the gas pedel, then it unsticks and the truck lurches foword with no control.
Throttle linkage sticks, ongoing problem, itermittently, mostly sticks from idle, but recently did not return to idle, had to reaccelerate and then it returned. Mechanic contacted chevrolet dealer and was told it is a problem in around 50% of the throttle bodies in this type of vehicle. Refused to provide correction for problem and stated that it is a major problem.(not dealer where purchased)
1. Abs motor started running while driving, then kept running, even when vehicle was shut off. 2. Engine turns over but is hard to start if it sits longer than 15 minutes and less than 6 hours 3. While idling, engine occasionally shakes and sounds like it's going to die.
The engine stalled and had to be replaced at 38,000 miles.
While driving at 40 MPH vehicle stalled out with out any notice. This has happened five times already. After contacting dealer, dealer was not willing to do anything.
While at dealership for repair work mechanic determined that rear rotors were crumbling and needed to be replaced, drums and lining as well.*ak the emergency brake was not working. The rear brakes were corroded and worn out. The rear brake pads and both rear rotors were replaced. The brake shoes on both sides were replaced. There was a squeaking noise in the front end when the vehicle goes over bumps. The driver door panel failed and was reinstalled, also the arm rest for the bucket seat pops off constantly, seat belts lock up after being replaced twice under recall, the steering joint was repaired, also when consumer steps on the gas, the truck does not move for a few seconds, the rear window was replaced, due to leaking, and the engine hesitates.
While driving vehicle stalls without warning and will not restart, the vehicle was towed to the dealer, per general motors security sensor data is incorrect but valid. Nlm
Truck was in shop 6 times for knock in the engine, the engine is still knocking. Nlm
Consumer has to go under vehicle to disengage engine from running upon turning vehicle off. Please provide any further information.*ak the ABS brake system collapsed while driving. Heavy drain on engine and battery. The regular brakes remained functional.
Knock at start up in shop 6 times not fixed !!!!.
Abs light came on while driving also, when engine was shut off fan kept going. Dealer replaced ABS motor. *ak the rear window on passenger side leaks water. Driver side window rattles when closing door. Driver door squeaks when opening and closing. The front seat belt locks up. The front end was leaking due to front differential vent failure. Wiper blades failed. Driver?s seat would not move due to seat adjuster failure. The ABS light came on because the ABS motor was defective. Transmission was leaking. The battery was leaking and was replaced. The coolant light came on due to a leaking water pump.
I took my truck to the dealership mentioned above. When they hooked the computer up to my truck it showed 2 problems. One is that the egr valve is bad and the other being the catalyticd converter. They are going to charge me $275 + tax. That is with 1 1/2 labor.
Vehicle shut off without prior warning while traveling on highway. Dealership is aware of problem.
Without any indication, front end of vehicle locked up, causing consumer to lose control of vehicle. Dealer was contacted, and stated that subframe needed to be replaced. *ak *nlm the front differential was torqued sideways and broken apart, causing the frame to have 2 breaks, this caused the front to lock up, also prior to this consumer complained of a delay between the forward and reverse, when a bump was felt when accelerating, consumer also heard a clunk noise, dealer drained and replaced the transfer case fluid twice. The engine sputters in 4 wheel low and there is a whine noise or pulley noise from the engine. The front seat arm rest fell off. The left front daytime lamp was full of water due to the assembly being improperly sealed at the factory. The brakes pulsated and pedal felt soft, dealer stated the right rear caliper was sticking and the front and rear rotors were corroded badly, causing the brake pads to wear. The electric brake was inoperable, dealer installed a new plug, the wiring harness was badly damaged. The power windows were inoperable. The left door creaks due to front door link being loose. Consumer was informed that he was supposed to sign a waiver because of the plow being placed onto the extended cab, this was because the installation was not recommended, however the consumer was never informed of this until after the installation and the problems with the vehicle.
Brake pedal goes all the way down to the floor, it is hard , and there is less stopping distance. Dealership mechanic told consumer that modular pump needed to be replaced.
Component crank sensor replaced each time. Vehicle continues to have electronic/fuel related problem.r
Right rear was hanging from under the mounts. When going over a bump it was hard to keep control. Please provide any further information.
When starting vehicle or when driving engine was knocking. Engine knocking was very loud upon first start. Consumer has contacted dealer. Please provide any further details.
From the very begining, the engine, (5.3l), has made a ticking/knocking noise at start up (similar to what "noisy lifters). I was told by the dealer some time ago, that is was faulty pistons, ("piston slap"), with no solution yet. I have since also heard this from addtional automotive resources. It has continued to get worse. I spoke to the dealer again today, and am meeting with him tomorrow, leaving my truck so they can start it in the morning. I just anticipate a lot of problems. He has told me that they have had many trucks come back for the same reason, and have even replaced entire engines. But he also said it could be "carbon build up". I don't think so, because it was doing this from the first day off the lot. I hope I am wrong, but expect a very difficult battle to get the engine replaced. Any information or help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I have talked to numerous other truck owners with the same problem. Some have had major repairs like new lifters, without success. But those who let the dealer do major repair, then later were told chevrolet would not take the motor back and put a new one in, because the dealer had already "broke" into the engine. (didn't mean to write a book, but really would like some help/support. This is a very new and expensive truck, and I should not have an engine knocking with 40,000 miles on it, particularly from day one. I take meticulous care of this truck and change the oil like clock work every 3500 miles. Thanks so much for any help or direction you can provide! Sincerely, [xxx] parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The components on this truck ranging from the engine and drivetrain, windows, streering gear and shafts, e-brake lines, fuel pedal linkage and now the fuel gae itself has been a constant source of problems for me since the turch wes only a few months old ( 8,000 miles). Chevrolet has admitted that they knwon of most of the major problems but has indicated that they are "working on a fix". Yet I have to contiune to drive the vehicle. I need some help.onsta
Eng knocks @ start daily, dealer says nrml, owners manual doesnt show as normal.
The following have all been replaced: 5.3 l engine, catalytic converter, four oxygen sensors, 1 starter sensor, 1 crank sensor, 1 window regulator, rear air-vent assembly, 1 shaft in the front suspension, 1 headlight bracket, 1 knock sensor, 4wd switch, 1 clamp for rear window. Vehicle is 15 months old and has 32 days of in-shop service. Service engine light has come on 4 times in 14 days. On 12/4, vehicle stalled when attempting to accelerate. Engine had a spare part left in at manufacturing and was destroyed from the part flying around inside. Abs has engaged too soon in the past and vehicle could not be stopped.
Engine tapping noise when first started. Dealer says this is normal. I have been a mechanic for 20 years and this is not a normal engine sound.
Speedometer reads fast.
When starting engine on first start of the day it has a loud valve like rattle for about 15 seconds. Was told it was carbon build up.
Left side engine noise, lifter noise on start up, detonation sound while moving
Consumer heard a tapping noise coming from motor area. Consumer took vehicle to dealership, and mechanic replaced engine lifters. But, problem has continued.
Replaced muffler and pipe assembly due to exhaust system noise.
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