2005 Chevrolet Silverado: won't start

Filed Sep 16, 2012 · Electrical · 40,000 miles · AZ

This truck has experienced two fuse block failures since new. The symptom, in both cases, was the truck would not start. Both repairs were accomplished at brown and brown chevrolet in mesa arizona. The first repair occurred in 2008 and the second repair occurred in 2012. When reimbursement was requested for the second failure, the brown and brown service person and the gm customer care person both denied warranty coverage because there are third-party devices installed in the vehicle. There is an alarm system and a kenwood stereo, with a gm module, installed that were deemed third-party. There is also a cb radio but it was not cited. All vehicle equipment is powered through fuses on the fuse block. None of the fuses were found to be blown by brown and brown, including the ones powering the third-party equipment. The fuse block?s intent is to distribute power to such devices and protect the wiring with its installed fuses. Properly connected equipment may blow a fuse but cannot stress the fuse block to failure. I requested the ?bad? Fuse block in both cases and have disassembled the second one. I found loose power pins and no evidence of burning or arcing. The design permits the power pins to loosen over time, causing intermittent connections. This intermittent connection was verified by brown and brown; they said that simply leaning on the fuse block would cause the engine to stop. This is not an effect of third party equipment but is a design defect of the fuse block.

Filed Oct 15, 2007 · Engine · 8,342 miles · VA

Vehicle quits running anytime, brakes and steering "hard", dead battery like symptom and will not start or restart after quitting.

Filed Nov 11, 2006 · Electrical · 36,702 miles · KS

While driving down the interstate at 70 MPH, the engine suddenly stalled, resulting in the engine to quit. Since our truck has a standard transmission, the driver simply "popped" the clutch and the engine started. About 10 miles later, the engine stalled several more times causing the engine to quit again forcing us to pull to the shoulder. We checked the battery cables, but the engine would not turn over. After a few minutes the engine started, but continued to stall. While in neutral,the RPM's were jumping over 3000 then falling below 500. At the same time, the battery gage was reading nearly nothing. No warning or check engine lights ever appeared . Since we were in another state 500 miles from home, our only choice was to continue until we could find a gm mechanic. The engine continued to stall and misfire for another 60 miles. Since we were a mere 702 miles over our factory warranty, the dealership told us we would have to schedule an appointment, and the next opening would be in 8 days. Instead,we were able to find a local mechanic shop, and in a matter of minutes the mechanic found the cause of the stalling to be a wire that plugs into the coil pack. He called the gm dealership for a replacement, and was told it would have to be ordered from the manufacturer and it would take a week or more to arrive. The mechanic told us the factory wire was not necessary, he could simply splice into the wire to fix our problem. Since staying an additional week was not an option, we agreed to have the mechanic fix the wire by splicing it. We began to experience similar stalling 10,000 miles later. There are 2 wires that enter the same clip then plugs into the coil. The cause of stalling the second time was the wire opposite of the one replaced before. This leads me to believe that there may be a defect in the coil itself, or merely low-quality wires installed by gm.

Filed Jan 31, 2006 · Electrical · 22,000 miles · KY

Dt*: the contact stated that the vehicle stalled intermittently while driving 50-60 ph. This happens without warning. The vehicle was taken to a dealership but they were unable unable to duplicate the problem. The contact believes this is an electrical or engine problem. Updated 2/28/2006 - the consumer smelled something burning and the vehicle would not start. The vehicle continued to blow fuses. The technician found a shoted wire under the steering column.

Filed Jan 9, 2006 · Tires · 3,100 miles · NM

Dt*: the contact stated while driving at 50 MPH on a highway a hissing noise was heard as if there was air leaking, followed by the rear end of the vehicle swaying. The contact pulled over, and the contact discovered the left rear tire blew out along the sidewall area. There were no obvious road hazards. The tire indicator warning lights did not illuminate, and the contact had not experienced any prior problems with the tires. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The dealer collected the tire, and a manufacturer representative inspected the tire. Under the representatively instruction the dealer replaced the tire. The manufacturers recommended tire pressure to be 35 psi; however, the contact kept the pressure at 40 psi. The contact believed the tires on the vehicle were incorrect, but the manufacturer had the exact same tires listed on the recommendation sticker on the vehicle itself. The tires are general ameri-trac p245/70/r17 and were the original tires at purchase. *ak the contact's father owns a 2003, chevrolet impala which is still under warranty and had the same exact failure on two occasions. The first time the dealer, service chevrolet, replaced the computer. The second time the car had to be towed to the dealership and the ignition switch was replaced. The problem with these vehicles can lead to a very dangerous situation if heat is needed in the car during the winter, but it will not start. Contact maintains that there should be a recall.