Gm part number 95027313 outlet duct connecting the air box to the throttle body has shredded in 30,000 miles of use. This problem causes the engine to run lean (odb2 error code p0171) resulting in significantly reduced fuel economy, poor acceleration, rough idle, and potential failures to a number of costly sensors and components, as well as allowing dirty, un-filtered directly into the engine. A quick google search reveals 26,000 search results including forums and message boards where countless sonic owners report the same issue. This is a widespread product defect and gm needs to provide a repair solution for owners of this model vehicle. The part had deteriorated to the point, where the check engine light illuminated. The consumer noticed the fuel economy of the vehicle dropping steadily from the advertised 29/city/40 highway to an average of about 25 mpg highway.
2013 Chevrolet Sonic fuel system complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 14 of 14, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I purchased my car from a dealer, who set me up for an upside loan. Putting me into another chevy with now 2 car loans to pay off. The car has stalled on me at different times while owning it. There have been issues since shortly after purchasing it with acceleration. It jolts and jumps when trying to accelerate. The check engine light is one, sometimes it goes off, then will come back on. I have not taken it to the shop yet assuming it would be a huge expense for them to fix and find it. Took it to a private garage and they could not find the issue either. This car is crap, I owe twice as much as its worth and I do not know what to do with it. I drive an hour to work every day on the highway and I am terrified I am going to crash every single day. It happens on the highway, on the street. In the morning when it start up it jolts and sputters. If you use the heat, it smells like its burning and there is a high squealing noise coming from the passenger side.
My chevy sonic has had a clicking noise since I purchased it. It goes dead when gas cap is removed and will not crank back. I had it worked on at a dealership $306 later it is still doing the exact same things. I purchased vehicle with 21 miles on it. I am on the road for my job. This vehicle has been a headache since purchase. I cannot afford another payment. Sure cant afford the bill from the shop when it doesn't fix any of the problems. The vehicle has had to be jumped off to start. I purchased new battery even when auto parts store tested old battery and stated it was good and alternator was charging. I am furious. What is a honest person to do?????when dealership doesn't hold up to correcting the problem. Nothing to them it ruins your credit, not their name. I have had to be towed due to vehicle not cranking even when being jumped off. Help!!! Dealership/gm should be honest and fix the problems. Apparently they don't value repeat customers!!!
I was driving on the highway at between 55 and 65 MPH. The side I was on had a long, steady incline upward. I had set my cruise control to about 63 MPH. As I was going uphill the cruise control was supplying fuel to get to and maintain my speed at 63 MPH. I was approaching another car in my lane and decided rather than pass, I would slow down. They were going quite a bit slower than me so came up upon them quickly. I pressed the brake to slow down but the brake was hard as a rock. It would not budge so it did not disconnect the cruise control and my car kept accelerating. I panicked and tried to use both feet on the brake. It still would not budge. I was within 2 car lengths of the car in front of me when finally the car reached the speed I had set the cruise control for and the brakes finally depressed. In hindsight, I had options I.e. Putting the car in neutral, turning key off, turning to avoid a collision, shutting off cruise control, but this car was new to me, and in that moment I fully expected the brakes to work. Once I was in control, I tried to recreate the problem with no one around, knowing my options now. It happened repeatedly. A service tech also had it happen to them. First attempt at repair did not fix it. Second attempt did. It was a bad check valve. Apparently the check valve let air out of a booster, so I lost my brakes? The check valve also let fluid fill the booster. The master cylinder and vacuum were replaced as well. Looking back, there were signs, but no obvious ones. A random hi-pitched noise (air squeaking out the check valve). Loss of brake fluid. Dealer had to fill it when I bought it and I added some at 6 months. This was a dangerous and scary experience. I question the design to dis-engage cruise control and the quality of the check valves themselves.
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