We bought the used vehicle jan.04 from dealer, day we picked it up battery dead next morning, not known at time was because dome lights were flicking on off in the middle of the night. First electrical problem was when driving at night as soon as turn on headlights, all interior lights would blow, no dash lights, no tail lights etc. We paid over 200 to have that fixed(shortage in park light behind grill replaced) still having numerous problems with interior dome light flickering on and off whenever to the point we have to take out the fuse when parked so they don't come on and drain battery. Dealers service dept. Can't find problem, taken in numerous times and pay for labor to find nothing.. Abs brakes are kicking in when you try to stop at the stop sign, numerous times I have almost rear ended someone due to not being able to stop. I can not believe with so many people having problems with electrical and ABS brakes, that chevy does not do a recall.. I am very disappointed with chevrolet and will never buy another chevy again if this is there quality.
1999 Chevrolet Suburban electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 58, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Failure of door locks to lock or unlock (completely random). In the case of an emergency, can trap person inside.
When attempting to adjust the driver's side mirror consumer noticed that driver's side door started smoking, and the mirror caught on fire. Consumer was able to put the flames out. Took the vehicle to the dealer for inspection.
Consumer stated that on the morning of february 23, 2004 heard the alarm go off. She went to the window, and saw vehicle engulfed in flames. Fire department was called, and they determined that the problem was electrical.
Repeated failure of diesel fuel injection system has caused damage to starter and 7 of 8 glow plugs.
Consumer stated that the last week of november while driving down the freeway fuel system shut down. Consumer could not restart vehicle. Consumer had vehicle towed to a dealer. Mechanic inspected vehicle, and told consumer that a fuse blew out, causing fuel system to shut down. Consumer had to pay $500.00 to get vehicle repaired because it was not on a recall.
Car battery leaked, starter has been replaced 3 times in 2 years, cables were replaced twice, and the battery leaked on top of brake cable. Dealership can't figure out what is wrong.
1999 chevy suburban transmission problems before 50,000 miles. Starter problems before 60,000 miles. Both had to be replaced. Battery corroded. Truck constantly having to be jump started. Wiring system power locks giving out when over heated.
I have experienced an electrical problem since the first day of purchase. It started with the headlight flickering. Unlike the others that have had similar experience, I have had the battery replaced 3 times, 2 alternaters, cd player replaced, AC on/off switch replaced, time delay module for the interior lights replaced, car alarm disconnected, and now currently in the shop again for the same problem. Usually works fine for about 3-6 months the I have noticed the flickering (at night), and the alt meter drops at idle to about 12 volts. This has gone into the extended warranty now and very soon the warranty will expire. I was told by the warranty company that after it expires, they do not cover pre-existing problems. They are now conducting a test and changing some connectors on the alternater, and it is possible that the extended warranty will not cover the cost. Flickering at night is one thing with other cars. Resolving a problem on a 40k car is another. Please help
Ac delco battery. Consumer states that the positive terminal is failing, and acid is leaking on to the electrical wiring and air conditioner ,coming to the positive terminal and down to the ground.
I was driving my vechicle at approximately 30 MPH, when I noticed smoke coming out of the front vents. We got out and the vehicle soon became engulfed in flames.
This complaint is for the electrical system for my vehicle. My vehicle is equipped with power door locks and 4 of the 5 door locks failed to operate automatically over a 3 week time span. The part that failed is called an actuator, which moves the door locks up and down. My total bill was $900 and each part costs $100. The local parts dealers and auto dealers have said there is a design flaw in the original equipment and the new actuators are being sold as fast as they arrive. I have spoken with gm recently and so far no service bulletins have been filed. I believe there is an inherent safety risk with this type of problem and I would like to see one posted. Please research this and I thank you for your time.
I have a diesel version of the suburban, on several occasions, I have noticed that the battery cable connecting the two batteries is very loose and will not stay in the channel designed for it over the fan shroud. I replace it each time, while coming to work this morning, I hit a bump in the road, and then heard an awful noise. I pulled over, opened the hood to see sparks flying everywhere. I immediately shut the truck off to investigate and found that the cable had come out of its place yet again & fallen into the fan. I was lucky I shut it off when I did, there was only a few "threads" of copper holding it together. Had it cut completely in two, there most likely would have been a fire.
Problems with the electrical system. The fuel gauge is incorrect. This started in nov 2002. Now the car shuts off while driving. The head lights don't come on or shut down while driving. All the dash board gauges start all start moving back and forth. While all this is going on a high pitched "AC" static noise can be heard from the wiring.
The battery terminal melted which caused acid to leak onto the alternator. *jb *jb
Toyota of orange did not stand by their guarantee of "lemon" used cars. I purchased a used vehicle from them and continuously have had problems with the car. Not only did they not fix the problems, but they would not take the car back. I am now past the eligable time limit for 'lemon law' benefits and am stuck with a defective car that I cannot even sell for the 'kelly blue book price', because it does not run properly.
Sub died on the road. Alternator replaced 3 times in 60k miles. Steering jerks while turning over correcting could cause crash. Front disc brakes replaced annually. Replaced front left caliper and rotor. Too many problems with this peice of junk bought new. Local dealers no help. Just milk me for more money. Now transmission is leaking at 67,000. Dt
The battery, electric system, starter, alternator,lights have all been a tech. Problem. We lease the car until last year when we purchased it. When the car died the first 36 mths the dealer replaced the same items that I have had to replace after 36k. We have put 3 batteries from sears in the car already. The dealership took out the alarm and did not tell us. We have paid and towed the car to the point when even the dealership manager is telling us he is short of tech. Staff. The problem starts with the lights (I.e. Blinker does work or headlight does not turn on) within 30 days the battery is dead and the dealer does not know why but charges use to replace the cables to the battery. I have called the manufacter, and they say get the alarm put back and try another dealership. Has anyone had this happen. No one has died due to this ongoing issue. But, I have 4 young children, and to not have the car start in parking lots of malls and die while we are driving is very upsetting.we have used up all my towing on aaa.
We have had problems with three systems. At about 30,000 miles, a front and rear brake repair was done which cost over 600.00, claimed to be normal wear and tear and not warranty. We have had to replace tail light circuit boards twice. We are on our third battery. The initial battery leaked acid on itself and other car parts and my garage floor. The second battery would not stay hooked up to the wiring harness and caused numerous failure to start problems(when the car was only two years old). The most distressing problem was the recent replacement of transmission at only 70,000 miles. The car jerked between second and third gears, made noises and rattles. Red liquid was leaking onto my garage floor. The car was towed to capitol chevrolet dealership in austin. I reviewed my problem and told them I thought I had a transmission problem. They decided it was an engine coolant seal problem and performed a 600.00 repair. I picked the car up and drove one block and the same problem occurred. The car was driven back to the dealership, and we were then told our transmission was "burned up". I think it is ridiculous that a car would need a new transmission after 70,000 miles. The car is in top condition, stored in a garage and serviced as required. After reading customer complaints about this year model, in particular battery acid leaking onto brake lines and transmission problems, I felt I should report my problems.
We purchased the vechicle used from the dealer listed. Vehicle has been in for brake problems when wheels are wet they shutter and lock up. The battery cracked and leaked all over the battery tray and brake lines and other frame componets. The rear door dome light switch shorted out. The front end has been aligned several times for the wheels pulling to the left. The A/C air barly comes out of the front dash vents. The rear end is positive traction and when making a turn it makes a popiing noise.
While driving ignition does not function correctly, causing engine to lose power, resulting in stalling and shutting off.
Brake failure was due to battery acid leaking from battery and dripping on brake line directly beneath battery, poor design.
Vehicle started being sluggish, consumer opened hood and noticed battery acid all around battery. One of the batterys terminal was coming loose, and acid was leaking. Battery was a a.c. Delco. *ak
Vehicle started up intermittently when consumer put keys inside of ignition switch. There was no warning light on dashboard. Dealership was aware of problem.
While driving brakes went out. Consumer was able to stop vehicle with emergency brakes. Battery acid leaked on brake line and burnt a hole in it. *ak
Circuit boards for both brake lights have overheated and caused plastic sockets that bulbs were in to melt. Dealership has examined vehicle. *ak consumer was informed by the sealer parts department that over 400 of these have been sold, consumer states that this is an indication of a design flaw.
Vehicle stalls/electrical resets when engaging reverse or drive regardless if vehicle is cold or hot.
Instruments on the dash board have failed to work properly. Dealership examined vehicle, and could not remedy problem. *ak consumer states the tires put on the vehicle, kelly springfield, p235/70r15, dot number pjm1dekr268, were too small for the suburban.
Vehicle pulls left and right and chatters vibrates. Consumer had brakes replaced 5 times in last 30,000 miles. Dealer has invested time in trying to rectify vehicle, such as checking tire and working on front end. If brakes are applied in a emergency situation vehcile will dive into another lane. Dealer hasn't been able to find a remedy at this point. *ak axle seals were leaking in front. Vehicle would not start in the am, had to be jump started.
The side mounted positive battery pole leaked acid onto various electrical wires and caused severe corosion of the air conditioning lines and "burned" the paint from the engine side of the r front wheel well. The service manager at the lynn smith chevy dealership said the same thing happended to his wife's car several months earlier.
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