We are on our second pacifica after the first was bought back by chrysler due to major electrical issues (vehicle would not start or function correctly, dealer couldn't fix it). Now on our second pacifica we have had constant transmission issues...first transmission started slamming into gear (feels like you are being rear ended by another vehicle, this can be at slower speeds < 20 MPH while going straight or turning), they reset computer, that didn't fix it, so then they replaced the valve body in the transmission (2 seperate shop trips). A couple months later it started slamming into gear again (slow speeds < 20, turning and going straight), so they replaced the transmission after putting us in a rental for another month, about 6 months later this transmission had the same exact issue, slamming into gear at low speeds (< 20, turning or going straight). So we are on our 2nd pacifica and the 3rd transmission now and are still having the same issue as we initially had (slamming into gear like you are being rear ended at slow speeds < 20 going straight or turning)! There are serious issues with this transmission that chrysler needs to resolve! This is not safe to drive the way it is, because you don't know the situation you will be driving in when it happens.
2017 Chrysler Pacifica electrical complaints
Page 9 of 14: complaints 221 to 250 of 397, newest first, as owners wrote them.
My car stalls and jerks when I'm going around 16 MPH. Losses power. It clunks and shifts hard like you're being hit from behind. My car has had one transmission replacement a few months back. Today the car has been in the shop for over 30 days with its second transmission issue. Chrysler can"t seem to fix the issue. It's a very scary feeling to loss power in the middle of the highway or anywhere. Please help. My slidding doors had an issue that they will open and close automatically even if I was driving. Very scary. So many more issues. The issues started maybe a month and a half after purchasing the vehicle.
This is follow up to complaint # 11279161 and #11279427. Went by dealership today, they gave me list of codes they found PCM p152f, PCM p152e, ics b210d16, ics b21dd84, rfh c007700, esm pp060700, ddm b21dd84, ddm b210c16, ddm b286015, pdm b21dd84, pdm b210c16, pdm b286015, msmb21d21, plgm b210d21, plgm b21dd16, rccc b219916, and rccc b21dd84. Also told me they were checking tsb 08-099-18 rev a, something to do with front USB ports. I also was told when they first plugged in hand held scanner it showed bad auxiliary battery. They did full diagnostic and got all these codes. Still not sure what problem is. My other question is when my vehicle died no other lights came on other than the ess warning light. Also I have not gotten any other warning lights when engine shut off.
The transmission gets stuck in gear and hits a certain MPH and then drops even while pressing the gas. Most commonly happens at 15mph and around 45-50mph. Then suddenly it lurches into the next gear throwing the car forwards and revving up the MPH. The doors open and close randomly. The dvd screens don't work consistently and the keys have to be registered to the car frequently bc they lose their connection.
Tl* the contact owns a 2017 chrysler pacifica. The contact stated that the engine stalled without warning; however, the electrical system remained activated. The contact was able to engage the hazard lights and move the vehicle out of traffic. The contact also stated that the vehicle exhibited electrical failures. The instrumental panel darkened, the interior lighting did not illuminate, "key fob not detected" or "key fob left" appeared when the key fob was in the ignition switch. The vehicle was taken to mcclarty daniel chrysler, dodge, jeep, ram (3709 south thompson street, springdale, ar 72764, (479)-715-4476). The dealer test drove the vehicle, but was unable to duplicate the failures. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The approximate failure mileage was 34,500.
Sometimes is giving parking brake sign and will not change when you turn the knob to change to another level .say from p to d and vice-versa. When you drive continuously that way, it drain out the battery. I can conclude that it has both electrical battery problem and the parking brake problem
2 months after recall for the auto start/stop service, the service stopped working and light came on engine. Could not start car until 3rd attempt. Happened two ties after engine shut off. Brought to dealer, aux battery has 0 charge and a cell in main battery is now bad. Reading several forums this has been common after recall even though it should not have affected it. $189 for diagnostic and $642 to fix, not covered by warranty
Couldn't start my car in the morning, got a jump and it started,(this is the third battery I have had with this vehicle and it's only a 2017) after driving out of my neighborhood it shut down, no lights, couldn't put into park or neutral and couldn't open the doors...
When I was driving the car I notices that the monitor screen didnt turn on for 10 seconds after I started the car. The backup camera was blurry and the auto start stop system stopped working all together. The next morning when I went to start car the engine wouldnt start. The screen came on the light came on but the engine didnt start. I had to get the car towed to the dealership and the car wouldnt roll when it was put on neutral. I am being told there might be problems with the wiring and electricity. I saw there was a recall about this but my car didnt have a recall. The dealership is going to charge me insane amount of money to get this fixed. I've only had this car for a year and a half and I bought it to the service shop for more than I could count. This is supposed to be a new car with minimal to no problems. Im starting to get disappointed.
While driving my 4 year old son the other day the vehicle just shut off and it flashed "turn to p (park) to start engine"- this freaked my entire family out. I do not feel comfortable driving this vehicle anymore.I am up to date on all my maintenance and recalls. I have also been experiencing a "bucking" when you turn the vehicle and accelerate. It is as if the transmission is slipping. I am so frustrated and feel like I wasted $36k of my hard earned money.
The start/stop icon appeared on the dash and alerted that the system is not working. It was taken into dealership where they said the auxiliary battery was dead. Auxiliary battery was replaced but light did not go off. Taken back into dealership and was told that it takes time for it to charge and alert should go off after driving. Alert did not go off and was taken back to dealership where they said that the battery system is not charging. Had to reschedule another diagnostic appointment for next week as they did not have time to fix it. None of this covered under warranty as 2017 pacifica has 45,000 miles. Also alerted the dealership about the 'hard stop' jerking that occurs at shift change around 15-20 MPH intermittently. They said that this could not be investigated due to the auxiliary battery not functioning.
My 2017 pacifica has had many electrical problems with the windows, sunroof, sliding doors, navigation, electronic screen, and rear hatch which have been repaired except for the passenger window & sunroof. But the problem that I have told the dealership about repeatedly and they say they can never recreate is that the car doesn't accelerate often times until after the car glides into the intersection, and when it does it lurches forward. I drive cautiously because I know I am at risk of getting hit if the engine doesn't kick in the next time I turn in front of oncoming traffic! This has been going on since I bought the car.
Since purchasing our pacifica, we have had nothing but issues that seem to not be getting resolved with chrysler besides continuously in the shop. We purchased the vehicle brand new so we would not have the hassle of an unreliable vehicle. The vehicle has left us stranded with less than 30,000 miles on it. While driving down the interstate, the back hatch came open. After pulling over to fix this, as I had kids in the car, the vehicle kept opening. The dealership explained that there was a recall and fixed the issue.chrysler was very difficult to work with through the first issue. The case manager said that I was exaggerated over the issues.we then had the automatic start/stop go out, this caused our display screen to freeze up as well to where we could not use our controls. At this time we again begin experiencing issues with the back hatch again. Upon contacting chrysler a new case number was given and we were once again sent to the dealership. Shortly after being in the shop, I dropped my child off at soccer practice. When I returned to my vehicle the whole system shut down and doors opened and would not close all electrical was shut down. The vehicle had to be towed and was in service department for a week. We were left with one vehicle trying to haul our 5 children around with work as well. Recently the 9-1-1 is stuck on and freezes the display screen, along with the driver passenger sliding door opening without command of the button. The vehicle is scheduled to be serviced....again. This has been an ongoing issue to the point we do not feel safe hauling our family but financially are unable to trade in, leaving us stuck with a hefty car payment and unreliable vehicle. We would not feel comfortable trading this car in for another family as well.
The vehicle will stall and then hard shift from first to second gear. We initially noticed the hard shifting when we bought the vehicle but thought it might be the auto stop/start system. We didn't think much of it until it started shifting harder when we would stop or be driving. This, at times, caused issues when turning or accelerating to go through an intersection. The vehicle stalling causes a safety hazard and presents an opportunity for an accident to occur due to the delayed response of the vehicle. The cars following behind could potentially rear end the vehicle. The hard-shifting feels like someone hit you from behind and causes back and neck pain from the sudden jerking movement. This vehicle has also completely stopped when being driven causing a serious safety hazard. It started up again immediately after that incident only to not start at all a few months later. This vehicle has been nothing but trouble for us from the very beginning. We stayed optimistic that the recalls would fix the issues. They haven't. It's only a matter of time before someone is seriously injured or heaven forbid dies because of this issue. We have had 8+ service visits for this van. At one time it was completely inoperable and had to be towed to the service department. We are frustrated with chrysler and the service department at ancira chrysler, jeep and dodge in san antonio, tx.
While the vehicle was in motion on the highway, the uconnect system repeatedly displayed requests for setting a time during which the system would undergo an over-the-air software update. This dialog box could not be easily dismissed or cleared. I chose and set a time for the update; however, this request dialog was reinstantiated anytime a button was pressed, thus effectively rendering the touchscreen interface (including the navigation) unusable. The dialog had a default time for the system to update. This was set to the current time plus one minute. While attempting to clear the dialog and use the navigation, this default time was inadvertently chosen. One minute later, while the vehicle was in motion on the highway, the uconnect system initiated a software update which completely shut down the touchscreen interface and displayed a warning which said that the vehicle should be stopped and in park. As the car was in motion on the highway, this warning could not be immediately complied with. The repeated dialog boxes were incredibly distracting. The fact that the driver could inadvertently initiate a software update while in motion is not only dangerous but astoundingly absurd.
I purchased a 2017 chrysler pacifica in october 2016 and it has given me nothing but problems ever since then. Within the first year I took the vehicle back to the dealership multiple time for a wide range of issues 1. The main issue was a hesitation in acceleration (this problem is ongoing) each time we took it in they said that because they couldn't duplicate the problem they couldn't diagnose it, but when we got it home the problem always came back. It just continued to get worse, the warranty we purchased ran out and the vehicle ended up getting towed multiple times for repairs for the fuel system at another dealership (because I lost confidence in the dealership of purchase). The fuel system problem is dangerous because it stalls, stops, and shuts off in traffic. 2.the passenger (right-rear) turn signal and reverse light (right) wiring had to be repaired and is now out again also very dangerous when people don't know you're turning right, we've almost been rear-ended several times due to not having a working rear signal. 3.the lift gate stopped working 4.the engine sounds rough like its ready to shut off. Most of these issues were reported and/or repaired while the vehicle was still under warranty. Now that the warranty has expired all of the cost are my responsibility. A loaner car is no longer an option so I have to pay for rentals or miss work. Copies of the many roadside calls and tows attached.
A/c and heat fan will spontaneously increase and decreased power, dash lights will pulse brightness, dash will flash "electrical failure" "parking brake failure", and power steering starts to fail. Feels unsafe to drive
Yesterday morning my battery voltage while driving was fluctuating to low erratically. When I tried to make left turn the battery voltage immediately dropped down drastically to point or cutoff and nearly caused a collision. It then jumped back up to 14.4v and held that consistently. A few hours later it dropped down while driving. The dashboard didn't have any lights lit and the battery strength was fine other than the erratic fluctuations. I googled and saw there was a recall for this issue on my vehicle type and year. Phone dealership to tell them my car was unsafe and performed erratically because of battery issue. Despite the article from may 2019 pertaining to this same exact issue, they said I didn't have a recall on my car. I did research and it showed the stalling I've experienced was due to battery connector issues. This morning I got into my vehicle just fine. Turned on car and immediately the battery voltage gauge on dash was erratically fluctuating non stop forn10 mins and the car was sounding like it was shutting on and off on its own. The dash lit up and now a icon for emergency steering pops up and stays lit. All of this relates to the mandatory recall article in may 2019 but the dealership says otherwise. Not feeling like dealer is being honest and has best interest of my safety. I attached pic in upper left corner of the emergency steering icon that stayed on as well as shows my battery charge as fine at that moment but was erratically fluctuating when I took the pic this morning
Tl* the contact owns a 2017 chrysler pacifica. The contact stated that the start and stop feature was inoperable and the vehicle failed to start. While driving various speeds, the vehicle shifted roughly and all the instrument cluster warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to stew hansen dodge ram chrysler jeep (2103 hickman rd, urbandale, ia 50323, (877) 841-4585 where it was diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired several times; however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was contacted and did not assist. The failure mileage was 15,000. *bf
Stopped vehicle and van automatically went into park. Occasionally vehicle will not start when brake/button pressed. Radio goes on by itself frequently while driving. While driving, parking assist went off by itself.
We have had multiple issues with our 2017 chrysler pacifica. The first issue is when we accelerate between 10 and 20 MPH our vehicle revs up and jerks really bad. Literally feels like you have been rear ended. It is like the gear is slipping or it can't find the next year to go into. Another issue we are having is with the drivers side sliding door. I usually have to try to shut it multiple times for it to stay shut. On multiple occasions I have had to hit the button 3-4 times for it to stop popping back open. The last issue is our start/stop feature. It has completely stopped working and it shows a code on the dash. These are all issues we have been dealing with for months.
Tl* the contact owns a 2017 chrysler pacifica. The contact stated that the door push button failed to open the door from inside the vehicle. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer or an independent mechanic for diagnostic testing. The vehicle was not repaired. In addition, the vehicle was serviced per an unknown recall. Afterwards, the vehicle failed to start, the steering wheel was difficult to turn, and all the warning indicators turned on and off. The failure recurred twice. The vehicle was previously serviced per the federal safety agency campaign number: 19v348000 (electrical system). On another occasion, while driving, the steering wheel seized and a warning indicator illuminated, indicating to park and start engine. The engine failed to start. The vehicle was towed to lone star chrysler dodge jeep ram (8811 interstate 35 access rd, san antonio, tx 78211, (210) 828-1515) where multiple inspections were completed. The contact was unaware of the diagnostic results. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and provided case number: 63275357. The approximate failure mileage was 22,500.
When starting the car the engine doesn't always turn over. When this happens all the sensors go down and it tells me I am not in park. The car won't turn off or on and must try it many times before anything else with happen. It seems to happen on a cooler morning
The auxiliary battery failed which caused my start/stop system to disable which in turn caused my electronic stability control disable also. I have had the car just over a year with 55,000 miles on it.
As I was driving down the highway my passenger window suddenly rolled down then my dashboard lights flicked on and off multiple times. The battery light and no traction light blinked, too. As I went to pull over to stop, the car completely shut off once I braked. I was able to restart and continue driving at that time. I was going roughly 65 MPH when the initial problem began.
On september 16, 2019 near 10 am my 2017 chrysler pacifica was parked in family garage since the 13th without being driven. The key fob didn't work and no power was available to start or accessories. An attempt was made to jump it with cables from my wife's car and it would not start. Tow was request to near by dodge dealer jack phelan in countryside, ill. Early afternoon two different tow truck companies were summoned and they both were unsuccessful in jumping it.after two days they stated the batteries were defective and both needed replacement. Still under warranty otherwise cost was given as over $600.00.
After several stops for shopping the van would crank over but not start, repeatedly. After 15 minutes of trying and a 5 minute cooldown the van started.
Vehicle was being driven at approximately 35 MPH when it spontaneously became extremely lower on power and lost all power steering along with numerous error messages and dash lights being illuminated. The van was able to be driven into a parking lot where it was restarted and driven through the lot. After approximately 30 seconds the van had the exact same issue but this time was not able to be restarted. Martins chrysler of untion grove wisconsin came and picked up the vehicle. The owner of martins said the vehicle started but then he experienced the same issue we had. Aside from some start/stop and electrical/charging system error messages previously there was no warning at the time of this incident. We've had the van in before for these error messages but the dealer never found the cause of the issue.
Vehicle stalling due to dead battery according to dealership. Vehicle stalled while driving. I was able to start it again after coming to a stop, but it took 3 times pushing the start button before it turned over. Had the vehicle towed to the dealership to run diagnostic and they concluded the battery was dead and no other malfunction was reported.
Back up camera has start to malfunction. More times than not when you go into reverse the camera either comes up black, black with warning lines, blue screen, fuzzy pictures, great pictures then you move and it freezes. This is becoming ridiculous with a pretty much brand new vehicle. Needs to be addressed and fixed properly.
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