2001 Chrysler Town and Country: grinding or squealing brakes

Filed Jan 22, 2006 · Brakes · PA

Faulty brake rotors. Warped rotors due to poor design. Dealership said that rotors were poor design and no cooling vents on rotors it's self. Van was making squeaking noises and pulsating feeling when brake was applied. Took van to mechanic to look at rotors. Mechanic said he didn't see any problem so he cut all four rotors and said brakes were fine. Van worked fine for about two weeks. Then the squeaking and pulsating started up again. I then changed all four rotors and brake pads. Worked fine for about two months and then the problem started again in the month of december. I have owned the van for less than one year and I would like to know if there is a solution to this problem. Also compensation for parts. This is my only vehicle and I transport my three kids and wife. My main concern is their safety do to this problem. In january I checked the brakes again and found that the rear left rotor was warped and found a chunk of the original rotor had broken off. I replaced it and saved it. I would like to know what can be done about this. Two mechanics have looked at the problem and they keep informing me that the rotor are a poor design from the manufacturer.

Filed Oct 4, 2005 · Electrical · 51,130 miles · TN

2001 chrysler town & country minivan-multi-passenger/ oct 1st 2005. Was driving into a burger king drive-thru with the air-conditioning on. Suddenly there was a metallic kind of noise like a crunching on the right side where the air-conditioning system is located, then the vehicle started to lose power. I turned the air off and the noise stopped. After leaving burger king the air was turned back on, the same noise occurred; later smoke started billowing from the front of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken in today 10/04/05 to southeast automotive, who informed me that the compressor was the problem. I referred them to the warranty of the vehicle (not chrysler) who informed them that there is a bulletin out on this same problem. The dealer claims that they were not aware of this. Anyway I was told that chrysler will fix the problem. Currently there is a problem with the brakes on the right side of the vehicle. They are squealing and at the same time there is another noise on that end like struts or bearings or some other part is lose. It occurs when I brake or accelerating after I have stopped or when I turn the wheel of the vehicle. I asked the dealership to also check the brakes since they had just fixed both of them back on 3/14/05. They said that they drove it and do not detect any noises. I am concerned about this also, because it feels like the brakes are going to fail or that some other part on the right wheel of the vehicle is going to come loose at some point and become a danger to my family and I. A couple of months ago the engine died and all instrument panels went out while going up my drive-way. On another occasion the power window on the driver's side suddenly stopped working. Had to turn the engine off and wait for about two minutes before attempting to close again. One other thing that concerns me is that when in reverse the vehicle moves forward freely like if in the "drive mode".

Filed Dec 15, 2004 · Transmission · 46,000 miles · TX

My 2001 town and country has 46, 000 miles. With no prior warning it suddenly lost power and was unable to accelerate. A loud whining sound was heard. By the time I coasted into my neighborhood I had no power. Vehicle towed to dealership 2 days ago. Warranty up 2 months and 10000 miles ago. Was told probably would need new transmission. $1900 best scenario/$3300 worse case. Will not find out for 2 more days. Why would a car with 46000 miles need a new transmission. Other things that have happened that I haven't even ventured to get fixed due to financial issues include: back power latch will not work. I sometimes can't even get the hatch open manually. The sliding doors make an ungodly grinding noise when they open and close; my radio was replaced after approximately 11000 miles because it was short circuiting out the electrical components in the dash; I also had to have the front rotors replaced at 11000 miles(they were defective). Also, my front drivers seat power adjustments are broken( god know how much that would cost me to get fixed) my brakes have never felt "right" my husband hates to drive the van because it feels like the brakes are too soft and won't engage when needed. I have had them replaced at a different shop at 36,000 miles though I truly feel it is a mechanical flaw. Despite more times then I care to say of bringing it in to be checked the car still pulls to the right. Nothing has helped this matter. I guess the big thing that gets me is the transmission issues. I am truly discouraged. A 30000 dollar vehicle should not have these problems. I thought I was getting a higher end quality vehicle for $30000 but I guess all I got was an expensive lemon that I am stuck with because I still owe 2 years on it. Obviously by all the reports I have read the transmission is a big problem. Chrysler should own up to these problems and fix them for their customers or soon they won't have any customers left.

Filed Oct 30, 2003 · Electrical, Engine · NY

For the last 3 years, we have had nothing but problems with our 2001 town & country awd van. I am in the shop almost once a month! The list of repairs are as follows: (2001) failure of rear-windshield wiper, failure of driver's side heated seat, replaced switch, replaced front drive shaft, replaced power steering reservoir bottle (2002) replaced power steering pump, transmission failure (2003) of rear fan motor, replaced rear-tailgate latch, failure of front passenger heated seat, driver's side window sticks and stays down mostly during wet weather and requires you to turn the defroster on high for 5 minutes to have it go back up, check engine light came on due to leak in compressor, belt still squeals after a hard rain, knob for fog light won't stay on.

Filed Jun 2, 2003 · Acceleration, Brakes · 6,380 miles · NJ

The vehicle made a knocking noise in the front end. The dealer replaced the front suspension strut, strut mount, front sway bar and sway bar link. The rear end of the vehicle also made noise. The dealer replaced the transfer gear set. The vehicle also experienced a whining noise in the steering wheel. The dealer replaced the spring clock along with the shroud stabilizer. Power steering fluid due it being clog and caused the steering to whine when turned. The rear lift gate would not open with the remote. Faulty front rotors squeaked when applied. The drivers side window would not go up due to a faulty regulator. The cruise control would not disable when the brakes were applied and the brakes would not work when the cruise control was engaged. The rear windshield wipers were inoperative. The engine made noise when started. The timing chain failed and caused the check engine light to illuminate. The o-rings failed and caused fuel odor inside the vehicle. *scc

Filed Apr 8, 2003 · Body · IN

Electric sliding side door became impossible to open manually. It would still operate with electric motor but made a grinding noise. In case of an accident, passengers in rear seats would have a hard time opening door ans exiting vehicle.

Filed Apr 1, 2002 · Brakes, Suspension · NH

A squealing noise from the left and right wheels, and pulsation when applying the brakes was experienced. The front wheel bearings and rotors were replaced on 9-14-01. On 11-01-01, brought vehicle in for squealing noise in front wheels. Noise wasn't heard by tech. Told it could be ABS self check. Heard noise while driving home at 30-35mph. Nov. 2, 01, brought car back. I wasn't comfortable with diagnosis given on 11-01-01. Tech. Still didn't hear noise. Vehicle was put on lift and checked, but nothing was found. I kept a log, and recorded squealing noise heard on 11-23-01, 12-4-01, 12-05-01. Brought car back for squealing noise on 12-13-01. Tech. Heard noise, and replaced 2 rivets on splash shield. I still heard the noise while driving home. Also recorded hearing noise on 12-17-01 & 12-29-01. Brought car back on 1-3-02. Quality control mngr. Went for a test drive & heard the squeeling noise (approx. 30 MPH), however, when the mech. Took it out, he couldn't hear it. They suggested that I bring the car back when it consistently makes the noise. On 3-11-02, car started to make a different and very loud squeeking noise while traveling at 10-20 MPH. Noise continued if I maintained speed, but once I drove 30 MPH or more, noise wasn't present. Brought car in for service 3-12-02. Veh. Made 1 short squeek noise for tech. When leaving the parking area. Once on the main road, noise could not be heard, however, the squealing noise that I have continuously complained about, could be heard quite clearly by me, but not by the tech. Another tech joined us for the road test, and he could not hear the noise either. Checked veh. On lift. I was told everything looked good and tight. They advised me that the squeeling noises I'm hearing are just "normal brake noises". W hen I left, I immediately heard loud squeeking noise & ret'nd. Car. Tech. Heard noise too, & replaced rear brake pads. 3-28-02, squeeking noise returned at 15mph, & again on 3-31-02.

Filed Sep 12, 2001 · Suspension · IL

While driving, there was a scraping noise in the front right wheel, the grinding then became worse and the steering wheel was vibrating, and the ABS flashed a couple times and went out as the vehcile was going straight, consumer pulled into the driveway and smelled something hot and felt the front right and tire which was hot and the wheel could be shaken very readily, consumer pulled the front right wheel off and a flat washer and regulator nut fell from the front hub, the vehicle was towed and consumer was informed that the parts that were needed were not available and that the bearing dome was loose from the hub, which probably failed due to insufficent torque.

Filed Sep 4, 2001 · Brakes, Suspension · IL

Washer and nut came off the front wheel while consumer was going 15mph. Abs light came on as a warning, and vehicle made a grinding noise. Consumer got home, and found caliper was the only thing holding the wheel. Pin was not put in during manufacturing. *ak consumer states a flat washer and flat nut (not a lock nut) were used, also there is not a crown nut, nor a cotter pin installed. Dealer stated the bearing had come loose from the hub and failed, probably due to insufficient torque on the flat washer and nut.