Vehicle cranks, starter sometimes stays engaged for extended period of time, but fails to start due to fuel pump relay failure in total integrated power module ( tipm/fusebox). Sometimes will start, run, then die. After multiple attempts, will finally start, stay running. Known issue across multiple fca models and years. Can progress to failure while going down the road. Repair cost ~$1000. I view this as a safety issue worthy of a vehicle safety recall and find it reprehensible that despite all of reports regarding failure, no recall has been issued.
2011 Chrysler Town and Country electrical complaints
Page 4 of 19: complaints 71 to 100 of 523, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Intermetint wipers don't work,, blind spot detection system doesn't work
Intermittent start has lead to various electrical related burn ups such as battery, alternator, starter relay, fuel pump and ignition. Problems started in october 2018 with roughly 79,000 miles with van randomly shutting down during driving or failing to start after arriving at a destination. Chrysler dealership in murfreesboro, tn replaced ignition as there is a current bulletin on that particular part. However, it did not resolve the issue and van would not even start to leave the property. Dealership told us they could not get the problem to repeat and said we made the issue up. After several more parts burned out and every mechanic was clueless, we contacted fca customer support this week. The case manager told us to take it to another dealership. Which we have done. Then the case manager told us there will likely be no issue with the vehicle as they will persuade the service department to leave the issue undiagnosed so there is no record of an issue and no reason for them to intervene. The van most recently stalled while in drive two weeks ago and has failed to start since we brought it home. There are no codes stored. All mechanics not affiliated with chrysler believe the problem to be a manufacturer defect with the fuse box, otherwise called the timp. It can be replaced with a refurbished unit and we are told will likely continue to fail and burn up vehicle components. Repair bills add up as well as the continued risk of complete vehicle failure while in gear. This van was supposed to be a family vehicle. But has failed and become dangerous. We can obtain all records of aaa towing and all repairs as well as the initial documentation from a chrysler dealership who replaced the ignition but failed to diagnose the real issue. Chrysler needs to step up. Don't wait for a death from a lock up in gear! Please help us!
The vehicle will not start sometimes (the starter cranks but won't start) but then starts a few minutes later and you have no clue why, and sometimes the lights come on while parked at the house and then turn off. Other times the vehicle cranks up but will not start and after releasing the button it keeps cranking up for about 20 seconds? Sounds like some problem with the firmware for the totally integrated power module (tipm) which is the gateway or distribution box for nearly the entire electrical system in late-model chrysler products. Because of the intermittent nature (I have been experiencing this over more than 6 months and it will not repeat at my mechanics location) it is very hard to diagnose totally. The engine seems to be starting to run a little rougher than it used to also. I have over 125,000 miles with the vehicle and it has always worked great until this intermittent problem started. I also wake up my neighbors at different times of the night when the horn starts going off at random times. This one problem has been occurring since the car had about 20,000 miles and I attributed it to the key fob but I am not so sure. I have talked to chrysler who keeps telling me that there is no recall so if I go in I have to pay to get it fixed while I think it is an engineering design problem that should be fixed at no cost. The date below reflects the latest instance but it has happened a lot during the past few years.
All dash alerts flashed (at times independently or together, wipers came on, speed gauge indicators moved wildly). There was no correlation to timing, speed, etc. As to the events. Approximately 5 months earlier the backup camera stopped working. I was told by a dealership that the radio needed to be replaced. Had the radio replaced. Had the tipm replaced, still having the same problem, nothing has changed. Presently, at the dealership where I have been told they will have many hours involved in diagnosing the problem? Have read the 165 complaints which are the same as what I am experiencing. Still leaning toward the tipm replacement is also defective.
Vehicle has plastic 'fob' and not a traditional key. This vehicle intermittently (while stationary) fails to crank the starter. I've been told that this problem is widespread with 2007 - 2011 chrysler town & country vans. I found no recall. Is there an investigation? Problem has occurred scores of times in past 6 months.
On my driver side the sliding door does not open, not remotley or manual. The light at the overhead button to open the door with come on sometimes but will not open the door either. I can hear a clicking sound trying to open the door with the remote but it still will not move at all.
Vehicle started but would not shift out of park. Had to override the shift lock. Took to automotive repair where they found multiple codes related to the brake light switch. Cleared codes and replaced brake light switch. Still showed codes related to brake light switch. Found system had 3 amp draw running battery low and traced it back to the tipm. Found draw was present when ignition switch is removed from the loop. Replaced the tipm module and programed to vehicle. Found wiring issue to the tipm that needed replaced
Passanger side sliding door will not lock. The lock itself is stuck in lock position. But it will not move by any power device. And will not budge by manual. All doors will lock but that one. There are many youtube videos showing this issue. Saying it is the actuator.
Van has had a few times where it will not start, you can turn the key all the way to the on position, all the lights/radio and air will come on but the engine fails to start, does not make a noise. After a few tries it will start. Recently the key got stuck in the on position to start and the engine tried starting 4 times while stuck in that position before it finally started and almost quit. Did not dare to turn vehicle off due to the possibility it would not start. Research states the tipm is the cause of this along with multiple electrical issues. This should be recalled.
In motion at 70 MPH on i75 my tire pressure system indicated a flat tire. Becoming distracted and trying to quickly get to the shoulder almost caused an accident. Once on the shoulder the tire pressure went back to 39 psi. While keeping an eye on it all 4 tires would fluctuate from 295 psi to 0 psi setting off a audible warning every time it dropped below 30psi. Since this electrical problem began two weeks ago I have been having issues with the vehicle starting, once to the point where I was stranded and have to have it towed. The mechanics could not find anything wrong because it started for them. They did let me know that the tipm has been known to cause all these issues and that chrysler was aware of it but not doing anything. It is a safety concern when random components and diagnostic sensor start going off at random while driving down the interstate. Being potentially stranded with multiple small children can also be a safety concern in my honest opinion.
My van has an electrical glitch where all the dadh components will flicker and the gauges will go up and down repeatedly and every couple days the car will completely shut off (no power steering, no gas) we have put it in the shop at least 5 times and the chrysler dealership said they cant duplicate the problem and there for they cant do anything. The dealership also said they dont have enough complaints to look into what the problem is. I am hoping that chrysler will fix their mistakes
I was in two accidents and the airbag did not deploy. The electrical for the trunk and windows do not work, and the door electrical is a fire hazard.
Van will be driving when it stalls up, instrument cluster goes crazy lighting up and needles bounce back and forth. Took it to a mechanic they couldnt find anything wrong with it. I have seen a lot of other owners having these same issues.
Car wouldn't start, then would start, then wouldn't start and now repeatedly will not start. Took it to my local shop who charged me for a repair but that didn't resolve this. Took it to a chrysler dealer shop and they were unable to initially diagnose what was going on. I've asked them to do no work pending conversations with the original shop. All the documentation that I have read points to the tipm so I believe that this is the cause.
When starting with push button sometimes will not start . Other times stays engaged. Brake pedal gets hard with push button that's how I know it will not start with button. Heater will turn on on its own even after being shut off. Cruise control does not always light up and work. Back hatch will not open or close with button no codes pull up on any of these issues. I have had it at 3 or 4 different mechanics and nobody seems to know what the problem is. Have pulled up things on the internet that shows temp board. I have taken this vehicle in many times under warranty and nobody could find out what the problem is. Now warranty is out and still have no answers. We did replace starter and it did not resolve the issue. Husband is on disability for brain tumor so we do not have a lot of resources to try eliminate.would like to know what you have suggested to others that have put complaints in for the same issues
Takata recall- had to replace the battery and alternator twice in less than two years because of being stranded or just not starting multiple times. The tork clutch had to be replaced and still runs rough
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 chrysler town and country. While driving 25 MPH, the vehicle intermittently stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the wireless win module failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was taken to st. Charles nissan (5625 veterans memorial pkwy, st peters, mo 63376, (636) 441-4481) where it was diagnosed that the wire harness module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and the failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and advised the contact to file a complaint with the federal safety agency. The failure mileage was 57,711. The VIN was invalid.
The power shuts off or the car won't start after the key is taken out. I was told by the mechanic I went to that something with the spark plugs was firing incorrectly so I had that replaced. I also had my auto start removed because I was told that was affecting the battery and finally I was told the fuel pump was constantly running which was draining my battery. I was told to pull the fuse for the fuel pump until I can have the part replaced, which is tedious and that still don't work all the time. It is my understanding that the part has been on back order since december. At this point I am very frustrated and I don't feel safe driving this car until the issue is resolved. The blind spot lights also remain on.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 chrysler town and country. While the key was in the ignition, the vehicle would not start. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The contact would have to turn the ignition switch three to four times to start the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the temp power module failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was taken to larson chrysler jeep dodge ram (2001 n meridian, puyallup, wa 98371, (253) 845-1725) where it was diagnosed that the temp power module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and started an investigation. The failure mileage was approximately 109,000.
Vehicle would completely lose power, shutting off engine. This could happen while stopped or moving at any speed, even highways. Took to mechanic where he found a faulty win module. Diagnostic found dtc for low voltage to TCM. Moving key fob would cause vehicle to lose power and shut down, but so could normal road vibration. Removed and replaced win module and problem went away.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 chrysler town and country. Once the contact inserted the key into the ignition switch, the vehicle would not start. The contact had to turn the ignition switch four times for the vehicle to start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. The contact replaced the fuel pump, but the failure recurred. The contact took the vehicle to jim shorkey youngstown chrysler dodge jeep ram fiat (4850 mahoning ave, austintown, oh, (330)-754-2212) where it was diagnosed that the power module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures and confirmed that the VIN was not included in a recall. The failure mileage was 72,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 chrysler town and country. The contact stated that the vehicle turned off completely without warning and had to be towed on several occasions. The vehicle was taken to renton chrysler dodge jeep ram (585 rainier ave s, renton, wa 98057) where they stated that the vehicle was not included in the federal safety agency campaign number: 14v373000 (electrical system). The manufacturer was contacted. The vehicle was currently at the dealer. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was 50,000.
I drove to the grocery storeand placed the vehicle in park, turned off the ignition, locked the doors and shut them. I went shopping and came back out. The key fob would no longer unlock the doors. I used the manual key to gain access to the vehicle. I loaded my groceries. Enter the vehicle and inserted the key five into the ignition. The key fob was difficult to get into the ignition. Once the key fob was inserted into the ignition successfully, it would not turn. I am ensured that the vehicle was still in park. After numerous attempts to turn the key fob, I accessed the gear override panel and inserted a screwdriver, I move the gearshift into neutral, and then back into park. Then attempted to turn the ignition again. Still no power, and the key fob still will not come out of the ignition. Attempted to jumpstart a vehicle assuming that maybe the battery was dead. Still no change. Now I still cannot remove the key fob from the ignition nor is there any engagement from the ignition. Several vehicles of this make and model of previous years have had the same issue.
My wife and I have been having the same issue for months. We would go to start the vehicle, some days it would start some days it would just crank but wouldn't turn over. Eventually my battery died. Replaced the battery, and noticed that after the car was shut off and the key was out of the ignition, the fuel pump would continue to run. As a mechanic this had me intrigued. Pulled the fuel pump fuse and the pump shut off, when I put the fuse back in the pump did not re engage. Took the vehicle to the dealer they could not replicate the fuel pump running. We continue still to have the issue with the car not starting or the fuel pump draining the battery. After further investigation and research. I am now seeing that it is a tipm issue. This same module has been recalled from dodge and jeep, I really don't understand why it has not been recalled for the chrysler. I do know that I have two small children and a tiny wife, so if it fails during operation, it could cause serious injury to my family. I will be paying the $1,000 to get it fixed, but will be expecting a refund check from chrysler when this thing kills someone.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 chrysler town and country. Every time the vehicle was turned off, the fuel pump motor continued to run until the battery was drained. The contact had to constantly disconnect the fuse to the pump to keep from purchasing a new battery. The contact stated that the failure occurred every day for the past twenty days. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who determined that the total power control module failed and needed replacement. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 82,299.
Both driver side and passenger side blind spot warning lights stay on when turned on. They will not work no matter if I'm parked or driving. The dealership wants to charge me $3,156.00 plus tax for two bad sensors and corroded harness. I'm seeing this complaint on the internet and would like to have a recall. My van is just about to turn 70,000 miles so I do not see how the problem could come from me.
The van started having issues with sensors. Last week the van did not start. I had to get a jump and it ran fine for a couple of days. Yesterday I had a new battery installed as I thought this was the problem and the battery in the van was over three years old. The van refused to start after installing the new battery, we tested the battery and it was good. Had to get a jump and bring it to my mechanic. I thought it would be an alternator problem. After various tests he found it was the timp and needs a fuel relay bypass installed because chrysler has known issues with the timp in their mini vans. $159 for the new battery and it will be $675 for the bypass. I did research online and this seems to be a common problem.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 chrysler town and country. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The contact mentioned that the vehicle needed to be cranked multiples times in order to operate. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who stated that the totally integrated power module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. In addition, while attempting to start the vehicle, the defroster failed to operate and numerous warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken back to an independent mechanic who stated that the ground wire defrost circuit needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired; however, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic who stated that the electrical injector needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 98,900. The VIN was not provided. *tt
As we drive the van will shut off. We experience loss of power steering, brakes, and all other functions. It will happen on the highway and city streets. Both low and high speeds. It has put me and my family at great danger! It has happened multiple times. Regardless of fuel levels, or outside temperature. We have had it in our local dealership many times, with no resolution.
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