Air bag light came up on, horn and cruise control stopped working. Many people with same issues on forums. It is the clock spring.
2008 Dodge Caliber electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 58, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Losing power and all idiot lights flashing on highway or driving around the city very dangerous can not go over 45 on highway
While driving on a city street all the warning lights come on and the tach stops registering. I turned the car off it wouldn't restart. After awhile it restarted with the check engine light remaining lit. Took it to my mechanic he says the fuse module needs to be replaced.
Car started making popping and creaking sounds when making a right hand turn. We have replaced everything there is as far as tie rods even to the point of motor mounts. Last night I get a call and the car had done something I had never heard of. The harmonic balance pulley had flown off and the car had to be towed home. I also have the same problem as it seems cazillion other people have posted online. This car leaks. It has leaked since day one and the dealership in conroe, tx said if you get a car with a sunroof, its gonna leak. They are full of crap. This car's headliner looks as if it has been trodden on with muddy boots. It leaked so bad that carpeting would get wet then it was leaking down into the dash which caused the lights to do weird things. I can't even get rid of it because I would feel guilty for endangering someone else's life.
My car was cutting off while driving down the road and with that the steering would lock with no way to move out of the way of other traffic but would start back up a minute later. This went on for a few days. Then it cut off while driving and wouldn't restart. Got towed to mechanic who determined it was the tipm.
My 2008 dodge caliber passenger head light only works on "high beam" while both stationary and in motion. Replacing the bulb does not fix the issue. It is due to a defect in the tipm box. This is a known issue and has received recognition even in the news more than once. (http://www.abc15.com/news/let-joe-know/let-joe-know-how-a-burned-out-headlight-could-cost-900). This issue meets the requirements of a real as it is a known issue among several dodge calibers across multiple years. It is an issue that is wiring related and effects lighting which is a key safety concern to both myself and others while driving especially when driving at night. The tipm box is not an item that should require repair under ordinary ware of the equipment. Occasionally the light may flicker back on and then off again making the situation even more unpredictable and dangerous. This issue is also not that different from recalls already issued by ford for similar lighting problems where the loss of headlights has resulted in accidents (http://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-ford-recall-iduskbn0u51tt20151222). I have asked dodge to correct this issues but they have refused as they claim there are no warranties that cover this repair on my vehicle and there has been no recall as of yet due to this problem. The estimated repair for a headlight not working with this problem averages between $800 to $1000 which is also quite extreme and an undue burden on the general american for what should be a simple headlight problem. Please take this issue with dodge headlights not properly functioning into consideration for a required recall to hold dodge accountable for the safety concern that it poses to all who drive this vehicle and drive on the roads where this vehicle is present.
Tl* the contact owns a 2008 dodge caliber. While driving 55 MPH, an abnormal ticking noise was heard from the front end of the vehicle. The electrical throttle control light illuminated on the panel and the vehicle stalled. The contact pulled over to the side of the road and was able to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was eventually towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that there was no failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 150,000.
My car is well maintained. I have it serviced every 3000 miles and have the records to prove it. I had the rusted frame replaced this passed august after my mechanic noticed the corroded frame. I have had almost all of the other problems listed and replaced on my car. I started hearing an odd noise while driving on the highway, and took the car in to my mechanic who replaced a pulley. The car continued to make the noise all the time while driving and I brought it back in for servicing. My mechanic could find nothing wrong. He told me to just drive it til something happened. The electronic throttle control light came on one night driving home on the highway from grocery shopping. The light came on flashing, the car started bucking, the car would not accelerate. I was able to pull the car off the road and had it towed to my mechanic. My mechanic put in a new alternator at a cost of $650. A week later my husband drove 6 miles and the light came on. He came back home and called our mechanic. He advised to let the car stall out and it would record on the log. Next day same thing, I let it stall out. Took car in. He cannot find anything wrong. Says it will be $500 at the dodge dealer just for the etc part. This is a known documented defect with the electrical system. Why is dodge not accountable for this problem? Why hasn't there been a recall? Why isn't anyone concerned about all of the safety issues with this defective dodge caliber? This car is a huge safety risk to all drivers on the road. Please do something before someone gets killed.
I have had this car about 2 weeks now and have noticed a problem with the cruise control switch, also rear wiper motor and the control for the radio on the steering wheel. I believe there to be a wiring problem as I have read many complaints about the same thing. This could be a dangerous hazard especially if the cruise does work it may malfunction while driving or fire hazard
Tl* the contact owns a 2008 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving at 10 MPH, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal was depressed to the floorboard but the vehicle failed to accelerate over 10 MPH. An independent mechanic diagnosed the vehicle and stated that the transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 152,000.
I can drive the car but can't speed up or engine light will flash. If I'm at a stop light too long my car will stall while engine light is flashing and can't turn over engine right away.
Update of previous reported problems. The controls for the turn signals, wipers front and back, washer front and back, bright headlights, instrument panel dimmer all completely stop working. The headlights come on and off independent of the control switch by starting or stopping the engine with the key. This happened on starting the car to go to work from being parked in the garage. Tried to correct problems by changing the tipm. It had no effect. Took car into dealership they found and corrected 3 different breaks in 2 circuits. 2 breaks in the wiring in the inner fender well and 1 inside the car under the carpet near the drivers door. Thanks to al serra auto plaza all electrical issues with this car have been resolved: cruise control works, key fobs work, wipers front and back work, washers front and back work, dimmer works, headlights works with the switch, bright headlights work.and turn signals work.
For the second time, I lost power to the turn signals, windshield wipers and washer, rear wiper and washer. I also lost the ability to set cruise control and the mileage display was blank. About 20 minutes into a rainy drive the wipers and turn signals came back. Then the wipers stayed on and would not turn off. I stopped for gas the the key fob would not lock/unlock doors. Problems went away and came back, but not all of them. I drove to the chrysler / dodge dealer and asked about any service bulletin. They didn't find anything specific on the computer. Made an appointment to have car trouble-shot on 5/23/2015. I am concerned that the air bag maybe not deploying should I need it.
While going 45 MPH car started stalling and would idle at 1.5 stopped in neutral. Lost almost all power. Merely caused a collision.
While traveling at 45 MPH on 6 lane highway engine decelerated to between 5 to 10 miles per hour. Engine begun to idle very rough. I was approaching a side street and was able to turn off the main hwy. To access the problem. The electronic throttle light had come on indicating a problem with the throttle system.
I was driving my 2008 dodge caliber in february 2015 traveling roughly 45 MPH when suddenly the battery light and all dash lights began to come on and flash. I was able (just barely) to avoid a head on collision with another vehicle and parked the car; in the previous 30 days I had several repairs made that included the alternator and batter, et cetera. Vehicle was towed to the repairing shop where a new alternator and battery were installed, then tonight 20150411 the batter light has again come on with fluctuating speeds. I have researched and read about multiple problems with the dodge caliber regarding the tipms system or such; the fact that the chrysler corporation has been able to consistently fail to make the required repairs to these vehicles is atrocious. The lives of other vehicle operators are being put at risk; I'm certain that something more should be done.
My passenger headlight went out. I replaced with two brand new bulbs but light is still out. Rear windshield wiper, one brake light, and one license plate illumination light are all non functional as well. Recall has been made one year of models of chrysler vehicles but not mine, and it is the same faulty part that has been put in several models and years of chrysler vehicles. Upon visiting a chrysler service center I was advised of a $900 quote to fix the part. I see no reasoning for me to have to foot the bill for a faulty part that chrysler has known about for several years and refuses to address.
For three sudden engine failures: 1) approximately april 16, 2014 noticed some of the dashboard warning lights blinked a little. Stopped at a traffic light it turned green stepped on the gas, the car jumped and stalled in traffic. Was able to restart the car and go about a 100 yards into a side street. Was met by local police. Got tow truck and had it towed to the local chrysler dealer. After the car was repaired drove out of the dealer but noticed that a dashboard warning light was on. 2) approximately may 2, 2014 the dashboard warning lights blinked again but the car kept running. Drove to my destination. When I returned to my car, turned on the ignition key it would not start again not even to crank the motor. Got tow truck and towed it back to the chrysler dealer. After the car was repaired, the warning lights were double checked, then drove out of the dealer. 3) approximately may 20, 2014 was going down hill hit a small bump causing dashboard warning lights to go on the car stalled, rolled the rest of the way down hill and pushed it into my driveway. I tried myself to fix it. Pulled off the main fuze cover and pulled out some fuzes this brought back some power to restart the car. The fuzes were apparently to the air bags but gave enough power to make the engine run. Made an appointment with an electrical repair specialist. Drove it to there lot. Was asked detailed questions on how I got there. The car was repaired but with problems, the electrical system is not protected in the front of the car and was advised to get a splash guard. But went to the chrysler dealer parts department. Found that it wouldn't do much good and none exist to completely protect it. The car runs fine now but hazardous. I believe I shouldn't be paying repair bills for this fault.
Tl* the contact owns a 2008 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 25 MPH, the engine stalled. The vehicle was able to restart. The failure recurred multiple times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 75,000. Updated 3/12/15 the consumer stated while driving around 25 MPH, when suddenly the vehicle started to vibrate uncontrollably, lost power and the electronic throttle control light illuminated. He shut the vehicle down and eventually re-started it. The consumer experienced the issued two more times. Updated 04/02/15
The lights and all dash gauges turn off while driving and all the warning lights on the dash come on. The engine light stays on until the car is turned off. When restarting all lights go away. This happens most often when I am braking. No pattern for when or what speed. Abs seems to kick in for no reason during this electrical failure. Power has been lost and car has died while driving. I am told this is the tpim module fault that requires replacement for $1,500.00! There is large and common problem with this tpim and dodge has wrongly not provided a recall for the caliber.
I first experienced the electronic throttle control problem last month when I was on my way home and lost power while driving took it to a local mechanic and he said he would look at it.. When I got the car back he said he cleaned the throttle sensor and shouldn't have any issues paid $75. Well a couple of days ago the battery light came on and was on the entire day then went off. Now when it came back on and the electronic throttle light came on with it. The car would not go over 2 miles as I was driving towards the light I had to immediately turned off the car and turn back on. Thankfully there was no one at the light behind me when I did that. But I researched online and seen that many other has had this issue with their cars dating back 2007. My car is a 2008 which seem to have been fine till now. I have had the alternator go out and replaced followed by the battery being replaced that same week. I'm afraid to get on the highway with the car now. It's kind of scary to be on the road and have the car just stop on you. And have someone behind you not prepared to be stopping so quickly. I pick my grand baby up from school and I would hate to have this happen while she is in the car. I want to see if there was a recall on these vehicles with this problem but don't know where to look. I haven't put the mileage down because im at work putting in this report and its dark. But the mileage is well over 150,000.
Hi I got my power module replaced like 2 time in the past year and it went out again and it's we're all of my fuses are connected to so my head light dose it work and I got pulled over like 8 times and just different things has been burning out. Thank u
I am writing to discuss a possible danger in the design of the fuse box. The fuse box under the hood of the dodge caliber appears to allow too much moisture beyond the upper seal. Every 10,15, and 20 amp mini fuse develops excessive oxidation on the contacts. The oxidation may cause malfunctions in two ways. The first is phantom error codes and check engine lights. The second is the CVT transmission may slip out of gear while driving causing sudden loss of drive power and lead to collisions. Another issue that concerns me is the potential for circuits to overheat resulting in electrical fires under the dash and under the hood of the caliber.
Horn started going off randomly. Sometimes short bursts and sometimes long sustained honks. Took car to the dealer and was told the tipm is failing. Car has also just shut down while driving.
We were noticing the car being sluggish and not wanting to pick up speed so we made an appointment to get it looked at. Before that could happen the electronic throttle control light popped on when I was going through an intersection, the car wouldn't go above 20mph and felt like it wanted to stall out. I took my foot off the gas and the etc light went off after a few seconds. I was lucky it was very early in the morning and the intersection was empty. I continued on my way to work about 1/2 mile and the etc came back on. I managed to get it to work and parked it. I looked up what the light means and proceeded to google what it was for my car. I was socked by how many people have had this exact problem for the make and model. I couldn't believe this issue was not known or recalled. Car owners should have been made aware of this issue before it became a hazard. I left work and prayed my car would make it the 1/2 mile to my home. Unfortunately , the etc light came back on then started flashing. After reading other car owners posts I decided not to risk staling it on a bridge so I coasted it into a gas station were it chugged out. I walked the rest of the way home in 85 degree weather. We towed the car to our repair place, they hooked it up to the computer to read the codes, then they reset the controls hoping it would by pass a glitch. It didn't. They then had us bring the car to a dodge dealer to be repaired. The dealer was familiar with he problem "this happens all the time with these cars." they couldn't get to it until after the fourth of july weekend. They installed the replacement throttle body $272.42 (part 4891735ac) at a cost of 566.00 total. We just got the car back today. It is running smoother but only time will tell if the problem was fixed. Updated 02/27/2015
Tl* the contact owns a 2008 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the horn malfunctioned. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician diagnosed that the air bag was defective causing the horn to malfunction. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 44,500.
Driving down the street at about 30mph and the car started jerking really bad the soon it died I went down and diagnosed it, come to find out the throttlebody is bad and seems to have happened to almost every caliber sebring owner.
First time dodge owner and never again...as I was driving at 45 MPH first my battery light came on then 10 seconds later all the panel lights came in car lost all power but never shut down I pulled off 6 lane intersection to a safe location and turned car off and it would not start back I wait 2 hrs in 90degree heat 6 months pregnant for a tow truck I call dodge dealer and they said 160 to look at it but sounds like fuse box or something like that. Said typical in these cars so I just had the car towed home because I can't afford to dish out all kinds of money. Just under a year ago I replaced the alternator and battery again not cheap.... Nothing but problems with this car and as soon as I am able I am getting rid of it.
While driving my children to school, my car began shutting down on a major road putting mychildren and myself in danger. The throttle control light came on. After turning the car off and waiting a couple of minutes I was able to drive extremely slow to ge them to school safely. This sounds similar to the same problems currently happening with the chevy cobalts. Is it going to take chrysler/dodge killing people before this gets recalled? I encourage everyone to contact their local news stations along with national news stations! Car companies are only interested in making their money and not looking at the safety issues of the death traps they are selling to consumers. I will be endlessly pursuing this matter until dodge steps up and pay for the repair! I will call every news station until some attention is brought to this matter and holding car companies like dodge/chrysler responsible for selling and manufacturing faulty vehicles. I have gone through all complaints listed on this site and numerous others. Someone is not doing their job!
Car was already warmed and driven for about 5 miles, after stopping at a gas station to refuel and re-starting, it was idling very inconsistently and running rough, shaking. There was a dash indicator for electronic throttle control flashing. I tried driving it and there was jerking and pulling and the transmission wouldn't shift past 2nd, car would not accelerate beyond 12-15 MPH. I made it home (about 2 miles) and left the car for about 6 hours. Upon restarting and warming, the car drove fine. About 1 1/2 weeks later, the same dash light came on, steady not flashing, car rumbled, then light went off and the car was fine. This happened on and off for about 2 weeks. Then, when ready to leave from work one day, I started the car to warm it and the indicator light came on and stayed on, the car was running very rough, idle was fluctuating between about 500-1500 rpms and shaking. I left the car, assuming when I came back the next day it would start and be fine just like the 2 times before, but that was not the case. I drove the car to a nearby mechanic, maxing out at about 15 MPH, strangely the car seemed to pick up speed when I eased off the accelerator, and steady loss of speed while going up hill. The mechanic could not fix or even diagnose the problem, said it has to go to the dealer. It seems to be something to do with the throttle control. I will update it once I hear from the dealer later today.
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