I had just got off of the high way and it appeared that my car wasn't driving to it's full speed. As I got a bit closer to my destination my radio cut off and the ABS light came on. As I pulled in the driveway the car shut off and I tried to start it back but the power was out from there. I had no clue what happen I just figured that a light may have been left on accidentally or something but that wasn't the case. I tried to get a jump but the car started literally for 10 seconds and no more after that.
2012 Dodge Charger acceleration complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 20 of 20, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I was driving my vehicle in rush hour, stop and go traffic. I came to a stop because of traffic congestion and my ABS and other warning lights became illuminated. There was no previous warning. The car ceased to function. Electric systems were locked and I was left immobile in the middle of traffic. I called a local tow truck from my cell phone and the car was towed to the local dealer. The diagnosis was alternator and battery needed to be replaced. The car was running fine in the days/weeks leading up to this incident.
I was driving my 2012 dodge charger on the interstate with the cruise control set. All of a sudden the vehicle accelerated on it's on, canceling the cruise control setting. I could not turn the cruise control setting off, I could resume my previous speed setting, nor could I set the cruise to a new speed. I had to stop, turn the vehicle off and then back on for the cruise control setting to reset. I feel this is a safety hazard and that dodge should issue a recall to fix the problem.
I pulled into an intersection and the electrical on the vehicle started flashing off and on. Dashboard, wipers, radio, transmission and engine stuttering and stalling. I made it through the intersection, and about 20 feet from it before the car shut off completely. There was minimal power, so the hazards worked, but the key fob was not detected (I just bought a new battery for it last week), the warning lights on the dashboard continued to flicker each time I tried to restart it. The middle screen came up blank or white, and it would take several seconds before the button/start indicator would move from the "run" to the "off" position. The battery was obviously dead, but when a passerby stopped to help me try to jump it, it wouldn't take a charge. The electrical capacity continued to diminish as I tried to start it, or try different things to get it to work. The great shift locked up so I couldn't put it in neutral to roll the car out of the way. Since it was 4:30 on a busy, divided highway during a torrential downpour, I was terrified someone was going to hit me from behind. Fortunately ocso arrived to help divert traffic, and he helped me figure out where the emergency disconnect was for the transmission so we could push it off the road. Aaa came but it wouldn't stay charged. I was able to drive it home with the travel charger on it. I tried to jump it again several times, with no luck, it was completely dead. So, $800 later, I have a new battery, new alternator, and feel lucky that I didn't get stuck in the intersection, get rear-ended, or hadn't left on my trip to north carolina yet. It was an extremely dangerous situation, that could have been a lot worse, and there was absolutely no warning or indication that the alternator had gone bad. I know I'm not the only one that has experienced this based on a google search, and appreciate that the federal safety agency is investigating.
Driving to work, at about 45 MPH, I saw a message on my dashboard read battery saver mode followed by a humming noise throughout the car. I then started to pull out of the freeway and my anti-skid lights flashed on and off, along with other unidentifiable dashboard lights. I managed to get into a gas station right before my car shut off completely. Per the dealer, alternator failure caused battery to shut down. How does an alternator fail on a car 2 1/2 years old? I have read so many complaints on this issue yet not recalls. Something needs to be done. I am still waiting to see if my extended warranty will cover costs, as I am 1000 miles out of my manufacturer warranty.
While driving my entire instrument panel started shorting out. Before I was able to stop my car it completely died leavin me without steering capability. I couldn't even open the trunk where the actual battery is. The battery was completely dead. The problem turned out to be the alternator. I had to repair the alternator rotor and get a new rectifier and bearings. The manufacturer would not cover this under warranty. I believe this part was faulty and should be recalled. Apparently the premature failure of this part it is commonplace for this vehicle. I wasn't going very fast and was able to begin pulling over and slowing down. As it was I did not have enough inertia and was still partially in the road way. Had I been on the freeway, this could have been deadly. I did not even receive a battery low warning previous to this incident.
Driving on a turnpike with the cruise set at 75mph and the "battery safe mode" indicator came on. From then in a matter of seconds my radio first shut off, then my forward collision sensor, then my blind spot sensor. Then in the next following minute or so, every electronic device shut off and my car went into "limp mode". It was raining and my windshield wipers stopped working and I had to get to the side of the turnpike fast. With rush hour traffic all around me and me having to find my way through the traffic to the shoulder safely with no blinkers, power steering, windshield wipers, and my car would not run over 1200 or so RPM's. My car was slowing fast. By the time I got to the shoulder my car had died. I had it towed to my house. Tried to jump it with no success. I took the battery to get it checked not thinking about how I would get back into the trunk. I had to crawl through the back seat access to the trunk and pull the emergency trunk cable. Battery was fine after all, and turns out it was the alternator, which I figured from the start, I was just covering my bases. Next looking for a new alternator or to get it repaired, I could not do either. All places, pep boys, o'reily's, auto zone, and napa did not have this alternator available. I went to get it repaired and they said the part I needed was on national backorder. My only way was to go to a dealership to buy a new one. Luckily no accident happened on the turnpike, but it was a dangerous situation and could have turned out very bad for me and my 2 year old son in the backseat. This is a problem dodge needs to recall or cover the cost for it before someone is killed. The major safety concern is how the car deals with this failure and makes it completely unsafe to drive within a matter of minutes from the first indication of a problem.
Battery light went on, then the electrical light went on then all the lights started flashing. Steering wheel was hard to move, car gave me just enough power to drive onto the side of the road into the bike lane. Then the car wouldn't go in to any position except drive, the car wouldn't turn off, all electric went out. After about 25 minutes of the car trying to drive by itself and heating up with smoke, the car finally lost all power and turned off allowing me to put it in drive and turn on the hazard lights. Then the screen and lights continued to go of and on and continued until a service truck was able to tow me. He charged the battery to allow me to roll windows up and stated it was the alternator not holding power to the car.
While driving my several of my dashboard lights flickered while driving over 50 miles an hour (note: although I selected 50 MPH, I drove at varying speeds due to start/stop traffic - the initial issues happened at above 50 MPH), I started smelling burning smell - likely wires and became concerned, I also heard a strange whizzing sound. I kept driving when gradually my car began to lose power, the dashboard notified me that it was going into battery saving mode and then less than a minute or two later, my power steering was gone instantly, the car stalled in the middle of traffic as I was coming around a turn, hoping to avoid an accident in the middle of rush hour. I was able to make it to the hill ahead and let gravity pull me into a safer place. I did not know what happened. I called for a tow truck and had no power left, not even enough to turn on the flashers. The car did not restart. I had the car towed to sears for a charging system diagnostic and turned out that the alternator was dead. The battery was also dead. I paid for a new battery and confirmed that the alternator was not charging the new die-hard advanced gold battery I just purchased. I had it towed a second time to take it to the dodge dealer because I was informed that it was unsafe to drive it, even though the dealer was only 16 mins away that same day. The dealer confirmed that the alternator was dead. We will confirm main cause today. This car is a 2012 and I could not understand how a car that new even with 101,000 (a large % are highway miles) could have a bad alternator go that soon. So far, my bill will be over $1000 just to replace the alternator in addition to the $233 I had to pay for the battery at sears. More diagnostics are being done at this time. They mentioned that it was unrelated to any prior recalls.
Ac, speedometer, radio, all stopped working. Icons on the dashboard kept flashing out of control. The vehicle became difficult to steer, windshield wipers started on their own, windows locked. Then car just stopped working all together while I was driving. I thought maybe it was the battery so I attempted to get a jump. The vehicle turned on while it was being "jumped". As soon as the cables came off the strange behavior started again.
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