Dodge Dart door locks problems

Filed Feb 25, 2026 · Electrical · OH

​(FIX INFO BELOW) The Issue: The ignition intermittently fails to rotate to the "OFF" position, locking the key fob in the column despite the vehicle being in "Park." This is a known flaw in the Dart’s sensitive electrical/shifter interface that can lead to total battery drain and theft risk. ​ ​<>Quick Fixes to Release the Fob<> ​I. The "Re-Park" Movement: Simply shifting gears is often not enough. Restart the engine, physically reverse the vehicle a short distance, then drive forward back into your space before shifting into park. The physical movement of the car is often required to reset the transmission sensor. ​II. The Twist: When you first park, try a quick, sharp twist to the "OFF" position immediately. Catching the system quickly sometimes prevents it from locking the fob. ​III. The Inward Firm Method: If already stuck, push the fob firmly inward toward the steering column (as if you are inserting your fob) while simultaneously twisting hard to the left. Repeat a few times before doing the re-park method to see if this will work for you first. Run/Acc>Off (be firm but if it doesn't work you're not trying to force/break it). ​<>Emergency Security<> ​If the tricks above do not work and you must leave your vehicle, you can still lock it and get back in. Make sure you apply your handbrake first just incase. - ​Physical Key Extraction: Locate the small release slide on the back of your key fob. You can slide the metal emergency key out even while the fob is stuck in the ignition. ​- Manual Locking: Use the door button, physical door locks or this metal key/a backup spare to manually lock the door/driver’s door from the in/outside. This prevents vehicle theft while the fob remains trapped. !!! Safety Conclusion!!! ​This issue highlights the volatile nature of the Dodge Dart's electrical system. While these workarounds are effective, the underlying sensor or shifter cable failure poses a recurring safety risk to owners.

Filed Dec 29, 2022 · Electrical · GA

Car stutters when you crank it up. check engine light cuts on and off. Windows , Sunroof , Trunk all don’t work. Trunk won’t open. Sunroof and Windows won’t roll or close . Car staggers at 28mph. I have been locked in my car and locked out. Rearview cameras and charger port don’t work. Headlights blow every 2 weeks resulting in multiple tickets. Car will say brake lights , and headlights are out when they are not. I have been locked in my car before for several hours, because it wouldn’t let me out. Car doors will not lock. When you unlock the car lights won’t flash. Have to get an oil change often because it burns ALOT of gas. Car has cut off in the middle of a busy street after an oil change , because it needed oil.

Filed Oct 28, 2022 · Electrical, Wheels · MI

My 2013 SXT 2.0 started to have the right front TPMS sensor stop working a few weeks back after driving the car for about 30 minutes. I assumed the issue was with the sensor itself as the car is 9 years old now and thought the sensor battery may be getting weak. Had the sensor replaced and others checked, and we were back to normal for a few weeks. Then the right front again dropped out after driving for 30-40 minutes. Checked the sensor again, and it is putting out the signal OK per the tire store, so we went on our way. So here is what is happening now. The car acts like it resets itself overnight and all the sensors behave in a normal fashion after first starting a drive. But they start to drop out beginning with right front consistently after about 30-40 minutes of driving. Then sometimes the left front goes out soon after followed by the left rear. The other thing I have noticed is the range on the fob for locking / unlocking gets really short during this same time of driving the car for a while. Fob batteries are all new. Car sits overnight for a day and things seem to be normal first thing again. Have been told this is a real common issue of late with the Darts and the RFHM (Radio Frequency Hub Module) is typically the culprit. This hub failure can also lead to other electronic issues such as dash lights / wipers / door locks / etc failing or working intermittently. Apparently to replace this module, it is expensive and can involve new keys as well.

Filed Oct 25, 2022 · Locks · 59,000 miles · FL

The contact owns a 2014 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while driving at approximately 40 MPH, the trunk opened independently. The contact stated that the failure had also occurred after starting the vehicle and shifting to drive(D) or reverse(R). The contact stated there was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that there was an abnormal sound coming from the trunk door latch mechanism. The contact had taken the vehicle to a local dealer, where it was diagnosed however, the mechanic could not duplicate the failure. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 59,000.

Filed Nov 29, 2019 · Electrical · MO

The passenger door will not lock from the outside. You can walk right up even if the car is locked and open the door. It is a safety concern since I have kids. I've had this issue since I've got my car new

Filed Jun 22, 2018 · Electrical · 87,401 miles · VA

My radio has blacked out for no reason. My mileage on my digital instrument panel is flashing. When I take it to the dodge dealer with this being a known issue, they want to charge me $128 dollar diagnostic fee in which I do not have. I have asked both my mechanic and a radio installer and they both have said that the mileage flashing is a concern along with the radio blackened out. That one problem could lead to another. Possible cause is the control module for the entire car, which could lead to door locks going haywire, the wipers going on and off, etc. My car was stationary when yhe radio went out and the mileage flashing. Radio usually goes out for about 10 mins and comes back on. But not this time.

Filed Apr 4, 2018 · Body, Driver assistance · 100,500 miles · AR

I have been having ongoing problems with my 2013 dart sxt since about 5 months after purchase. One of the first things that happened was the passenger door handle coming off - more than once - and having to be fixed. I believe this occurred three times. Each time it was "fixed" and then the handle would come off again. The last time the handle came off, I was no longer under warranty so now I just have a passenger door with no handle until I can afford to get that fixed. As far as the electrical problems I have had: the dash display goes completely dark and resets itself when I am driving - especially if the weather changes; my traction control and check engine lights come on randomly; my heat/AC turns on or up without anyone touching it (at random) and I've frequently had problems with trying to get the vehicle to start when it is cold outside. My remote start stopped working over a year ago, but because I first had my electric worked on at frank fletcher dodge, and had to take it back a second time because the problems weren't fixed, I stopped trying. Any other place I've taken my car always suggests I go back to the place where the electrical work started but I do not want to do that because it seems like problems get worse every time I have taken it to get fixed. My dash/clock resets at complete random. I have been driving and hit pot holes on the street and bumps on the highway that made the whole system reset while I was still driving. Even this monday, I started my car at the end of my workday only to find that my clock and audio settings were reset again. I was trying to keep track of the service records from frank fletcher dodge and others but may have lost some from all of the times I have had to call them in the past few years. I have been expecting some sort of recall or buy back due to the all of the complaints that have been filed, but no luck.

Filed Dec 9, 2015 · Electrical, Engine · 500 miles · NM

On a city street, tried to accelerate at a stop light with the brake on. Would not accelerate turning left in oncoming traffic.intermittenly (hops) in motion exiting a highway, upon braking I traffic, stopped at a traffic light and in the driveway with the key removed. Tachometer has redlined (6500 RPM + ) moving in traffic at 46 MPH on level road and upon take off from a red light. Tachometer has revved to 5500 RPM's on the down side of a hill when on cruse control multiple times when on the highway. The car has jerked severely driving down the highway at approximately 70 MPH.intermittently the climate control has difficulty in making a decision on the selection I made and has taken approximately 5 min before the air ( fan ) will engage. All dash lights have flashed when the key fob was pushed to unlock the doors. The auto door locks have failed to lock properly and engaged at 40 MPH. The list is longer but my feeling is it is a computer problem and service says there is no code so no problem found. It has been in service 6 times that have been documented. My fear is this car is so defective and is going to kill me and possibly others if the computer fails with the steering or braking.the issues started @ 500 miles on the car, it now has 1900.

Filed Sep 30, 2015 · Acceleration, Driver assistance · 30,000 miles · MI

Eight months after purchasing the vehicle the bcm (body control module) failed causing door locks and trunk release not the function this happened while the vehicle wasstationary or in motion on city streets or the highway. After the bcm was replaced the interior lights stop functioning along with the dashboard lights flickering. This also happened while the vehicle wasstationary or in motion on city streets or the highway. The vehicle traction control and cruise control both malfunction while the vehicle wasstationary or in motion on city streets or the highway. Https://youtu.be/b7loromdbhs https://youtu.be/qclhywt17ik https://youtu.be/jyhg7dpqndq https://youtu.be/jdtthgryv6w

Filed Mar 1, 2015 · Electrical · 61,000 miles · WA

Battery is faulty when it is slightly charged the car will turn on and send the gauges flipping over to the right and back to the left again while the engine reeves. When the battery is totally dead the car wont turn on at all. When the battery is almost dead the doors will not unlock without using the key and then that sets off the alarm.