2012 Dodge Durango: stuck in gear or won't shift

Filed Dec 23, 2021 · Engine · NY

My check engine light came on for my engine oil filter housing ! I had it repaired a total of 4 times already ! This recent time it put my vehicle into limp mode while doing 65 mph on the highway I had loss all power to my car ! Now even after repair my check engine still comes on with code and sends my car into limp mode until my PCM gets reflashed

Filed Jun 16, 2021 · Engine, Transmission · OH · crash

Lifter and limp mode problems. There is noise comming from engine. Took to shop and found out reason for noise and low power was lifters and is a very common problem. What brought the safety thing up is wife was in accident in March because couldn't get out of way quick enough. Had vehicle towed to shop from accident site and body repair. Thought was just a fluke and had damage repaired and noticed a ticking and power problems immediately after accident repair. Took to dodge dealer and found out common problem with the lifters cam and limp mode. Had at same repair shop for other recall 2 months prior for recall and inspection with no noise or issues.

Filed Apr 9, 2021 · Driver assistance · 125,000 miles · AL

The forward crash warning shuts off automatically while I'm going down the road. It also gets stuck in park if this happens while I'm sitting still. I have to restart the car to get it out of gear. It also randomly tells me that adaptive cruise is not available

Filed Dec 11, 2018 · Transmission · 103,000 miles · VA

I filed a complaint recently about my vehicle stating I thought there was a problem with my transmission solenoid but I took it to a transmission repair shop today and was told my transmission was failing. I'm filing this complete cause I believe this isn't something that just happens out of the blue. I take my car in for regular check ups and inspections and have always fixed anything that was wrong with it. My car is stuck in gear 4 and it's an automatic and this is a sudden mishap that has me wondering why this would happen without warning or have been told about this problem prior to it happening.

Filed Apr 9, 2018 · Acceleration, Electrical · 100,500 miles · UT

The check engine bulb is functional (lights up initially when turning on the vehicle), but does not illuminate when there is an engine code reported. I've encountered 2 different problems where the check engine light didn't illuminate. The electronic throttle control was malfunctioning, and the car occasionally went into limp mode, usually on highways while driving straight, sometimes at high speeds, risking a rear end collision. Fortunately the throttle control light illuminated, but there was no check engine light. The cruise control is malfunctioning, disengaging at random times at high speeds on a highway, again risking a rear end collision. No indicator lights illuminate, and there is no check engine light. An engine code read reports error p0572, which indicates a problem with the cruise control, but there is still no check engine light illuminated.

Filed Sep 26, 2016 · Electrical, Lights · 63,000 miles · TX

My 2012 dodge durango purchased brand new has been having major electrical issues since the motor was power washed at covert dodge dealership in north austin. They had an inexperienced car washer clean up the oil that was on the motor from a hose change. He used a very high pressure, pressure washer and it shorted the electronics causing the vehicle to shut down unexpectedly with no warning. This has happened multiple times within the last 6 months. I have had the car at 3 different dodge dealers trying to resolve the issue. On 9/22/2016 the battery light came on while going 75 on the highway. I smelled a strong odor of electrical burning and all the lights on the dash board came on, the blind spot alert system was stating it was inoperable, the AC stopped working, the seat belt light and buzzer stated to go off even though my belt was fastened and then the durango just shut off, right in the middle of the toll road highway stranding me in the middle lane. The hazard lights did not even work. I put the car in park to try to restart it but it was totally dead, nothing worked and the car was stuck in park! I could not put the vehicle in neutral to move it out of the highway, several cars did not realize I was stopped and locked up their brakes nearly missing me. I was so afraid someone was going to run right into the back of me and the car. Major safety issue. I called the mopar warranty road side assistance and 1 hours later I was able to get the car off the 102 degree highway. As a result of all of these issues, which seem to have started when covert dodge power washed the engine bay, I am no longer confident the vehicle can be trusted and be reliable not to mention the safety factor. As you can tell from the vehicle history, I feel I have been patient and cooperative in allowing chrysler and the dealerships to find a resolution. Updated 08/07/2017

Filed Jan 3, 2013 · Brakes · 600 miles · WI

What happens: inconsistent and intermittent temporary brake/power failure. Brake pedal temporarily becomes extremely hard and high with almost no pedal movement or no/minimal perceived braking. Sustained maximum pedal pressure (up to 5 seconds) and the brakes magically return. Pedal depressed to the stops, immediately engaging the ABS and maximum panic stop. Brake pedal can modulated if experiencing the unexpected panic stop. When it occurs or causes it to occur: morning commuting (highway and freeway driving): immediately apply the brake pedal after 75%-100% acceleration from 0-65 MPH on the entrance ramp or from freeway stop light. Transmission must shift at around 60 MPH. Freeway driving (immediately applying the brake after any of these conditions) merging and accelerating into traffic, maintaining steady speed up long grades requiring increasing pedal pressure, slowly accelerating from 45-65 MPH such that the transmission does not shift down, trailer towing: any long steady pull maintaining 40-60 MPH highway speed while in high gear. Cold morning 5-10 degree f. Took 8-10 blocks for the brake pedal to be normal. Started out high/hard/ almost no brakes and slowly got better then worked normally. Dealer results: dealer replaced master cylinder. Dealer can reproduce results. States all test diagnostics show the braking system is working as expected and designed. Symptoms still occurring. ..updated 02/06/14

Filed Sep 27, 2012 · Engine, Transmission · 8,950 miles · AR

Pulled out into traffic and vehicle went into "limp mode". Was able to slowly move to the side of the road but almost got hit. This is not the first time this vehicle has done this. This is the third time it has been in the shop for this problem.