The radiator broke in my 2002 dodge neon. The coolant went into the transmission. This was last 7/2007. Next the transmission solenoid went 4/2008. Now the transmission needs to be rebuilt. 7/2008 in talking to numerous repair shops I am finding out this is a common problem and happens all the time with these neons. This is a safety issue. I think its a defect with the way this was built.
2002 Dodge Neon engine complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 33 of 33, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Vehicle would not shift into drive, upon having the vehicle towed to the garage we were informed, it had a sizable hole in the transmission and they also found an oil leak. Total repair cost exceeded $600. This vehicle is a 2002 dodge neon and we are the original owners. The vehicle has always received proper care as far as oil changes, tires, spark plugs etc. The vehicle has not even reached 60,000 miles yet, and we're encountering such problems. In addition, the technician informed us, there are a number of small leaks, but it would be very, very costly to repair each leak, thus they only fixed what was causing the transmission to slip and the oil leak, which was also substantial.
Dt*: the contact stated that while traveling 60 MPH on normal road conditions and making a right turn a loud popping sound was heard. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who determined that the axle was broken. This manufactures defect caused problems with the cb unit and the engine computer unit. The vehicle was taken to a dealer prior to this incident where the cb unit was replaced. The problems still persists. The vehicle was awaiting a part to arrive for the independent mechanic to perform a replacement. There were no recall nor complaint found on this problem. Updated 12/05/06.
My 2002 dodge neon es has had nothing but problems leading up to the expiration of my warranty. Everything from electrical issues to radiator problems to the transmission. I took it for service at 65,000 miles because the transmission was slipping. My dealership said it was the radiator and the transmission was fine. I knew they were lying and sure enough, at 72,000 miles, 2,000 miles after my warranty expired, my transmission is dead. Chrysler corp. Refuses to fix or even discount a transmission for me saying that my car is "above and beyond" any warranty. I don't consider 2,000 miles above and beyond, especially considering the car had 5,000 miles when I bought it and was considered brand new.
On feb 14, 2006 while driving to work the car started making dinging noise and the transmission started slipping. The temperature gauge went to hot and I heard a bubbling sound coming from the engine area. As I pulled the car into a parking lot, the car stopped. Had the car towed to the dealership in town and they ran a check through the onboard computer system. What they finally found was that the radiator had an internal failure (that the radiator seal had failed) and leaked between the radiator and the transmission causing the coolant and transmission fluids to mix. Since the car is a 2002 and I have had it for 4 yrs and 3 months with only 68,348 miles on the car the transmission should have been still under warranty, but chrysler refused to honor the warranty stated, because the radiator caused the problem and it (the radiator) was no longer under warranty they would not cover the repairs to the transmission. I explained to the representative of chrysler on the phone, that indeed the radiator is one of their components on the car and on a 4 year old car it should not have failed (as stated by the service personnel at the dealership), and it was factor for the extensive damage caused to the transmission. It was also the main factor that resulted in the car stopping while be driven on a busy roadway, which could have resulted in a possible accident, personal injury, or even death.
Dt: the contact recently purchased a vehicle, and when checking out the vehicle it had serious problems. The frame was bent, the radiator was bent into the fan, the air cleaner was not bolted on the side, the radiator was painted red and bent, the core supplier was damaged, and underneath the hood the wiring was frayed. The contact just had the car inspected by a mechanic, and he found the aforementioned things wrong with the car. The contact was upset that the dealership would sell a car in that condition. The car is a 2002 dodge neon. The contact would contact ftc on the dealership selling the car in that condition.
I work in the miami area and was going home after eating ; it had been raining that day and there was some small puddles on the roadways. I went through a small puddle; then through a red light ;when my car quit in the intersection with no warning and would not start. So I had to push the car off the road and get a taxi home until morning when I could try to determine the problem. My car is a 2002 dodge neon which I purchased on jan 17,2004 at capital chevrolet in montgomery alabama. After investigating the next morning I could not determine the problem and had the car towed to the maroone dodge dealer in miami fl. They determined that the car had slung a rod which the warranty refused to cover their stated reason was that the car took on water through the air intake which seized the motor and caused the rod to break. After checking with other mechanics I have found out that their reason is not possible and that there have been other cases like this reported. Your help would be much appreciated thank you.
Check engine light appeared on the dashboard and remained on. Then, vehicle stalled. Consumer took vehicle to the dealer for inspection, and mechanic could not duplicate the problem.
Electrical problem panel lights inoperative. *bf the day before the vehicle broke down, the vehicle was in the repair shop for what the consumer thought was a faulty wiring problem. The consumer received an estimate for $825.00 to repair the inside cluster. An inspection revealed the vehicle had oil and transmission fluid in the reservoirs, in addition to that the transmission was rattling, the battery, alternator, belt and water pump had to be replaced.
June 1, 2004. On my way home from work the car started idling real rough and I didn't really think anything of it. I would stop at a stop light and it would idle real rough. Finally the oil light flashed on and the car died. Called for a tow truck and they took it to a dealership where they could not find anything wrong with it. A month later on july 2 the car started idling real rough. I didn't even bother driving it out on the street cause I knew it would break down on me again. I shut it off and started it again about four times and each time it would idle real rough. Got it towed to the dealership again where I was told all they could find it needed was a tune up. I got the tune up done to it and ever since then it has a hard time going past 60 MPH.
While driving at highway speed engine light and the oil light came on. Consumer pulled into a rest stop. Upon driving up the ramp to the rest stop vehicle stalled. Vehicle was towed to the dealership, and mechanic determined that sludge build up, causing the vehicle to stall.
Driving down i95, oil and engine light went on. Immediately pulled into rest stop <1 mile away. Car died on ramp. Last oil change 23,000 miles, car has 30,000 miles. Realize late for change, but deal says engine needs to be replaced will not cover under warranty. States that failure to have dealer do maintainan invalid warranty. States that problem caused by neglect. 7000 miles since last change, while late should not blow engine. No assistance offered by dealer.
The car shakes when you come to a stop, and continues to until you begin to accelerate once again. I have have the battery go dead twice since I have had it. It has only been serviced at a dealership. The last time I took it they said that it had the wrong spark plugs in it. Why didn't they find this sooner. The car acclerates better now on take off, but it still shakes alot when you come to a stop. It still continues to shake while your still sitting there. This has started to happen about a month after I received the car.
Vehicle is exhibiting hesitation problems when engine is at operating temperature while accelerating from a stop and while under load such as climbing a medium grade road. Engine feels like its starving for fuel. Had one case where engine stalled while stopped at a traffic light for no reason. Another issue that concerns me the most is while accelerating from a stop into traffic, the engine bogged down with no power at all making it difficult to get out of the way of on coming traffic. The dealer said that they understood that chrysler was aware of the problem is to come out with an update for the engine computer but after 1 years and 20000 miles, I have not seen a solution for the problem. This condition has existed since the purchase of the vehicle in april of 2002.
Vehicle stalls while driving at highway speeds. Dealer cannot determine the cause of the problem.
The screw on the rear of the radiator blew out and damaged the radiator's hoses. Also, driver's side door lock made a loud noise, and the brakes squeaked when engaged.
I have a dodge neon 2002 with 10,000. Miles on it. Recently my car idles now between 4-500 RPM. Driving my car; came to a stop light my car stalled. Now sitting at red lights/ stop signs the RPM's dropall the way to 300 RPM car starts to act like it is going to stall. Took it to the dealership and said nothing is wrong with it. One the tech's who took the car for a road test said there is something wrong with the computer. The car is deciding on its own for the RPM's to drop but does not show up on the computer analyses. The dealership said they are waiting for a "flash upgrade to be installed"; also the cd player in the car heats up the cd's burned my hand when I tried to take it ou. On 7-9-03 they gave me a loaner and on 7-12-03 they took it back. They said the only reason they gave me the loaner is because I was upset. They replaced the cd player but the problem with the car stalling is still not fixed. On 7-13-03 car stalled at a stop sign. Almost got rear ended. This is going to cause an accident. You need to get involved because the dealership is not doing anything and someone is going to get hurt'.
Noticed car was leaking oil; checked oil level and oil wasn't even registering on the oil dipstick. Required two (2) quarts of oil to fill to proper level. It appears as though the oil is finding its way into the coolant system and being expelled from the coolant overflow (expansion) tank. Almost two weeks later the vehicle required another quart and was losing oil and coolant at an alarming rate (pouring out of the vehicle). Dealer has insisted problem doesn't exist and has accused me of putting oil into coolant overflow tank. This is a blatant lie on their part to avoid warranty liability. He insist that there is no way for oil to find its way back into the coolant system. I have researched this statement and it is utterly false (either the head gasket or the water jacket could be responsible, among other things). They refuse to acknowledge the problem or fix it instead insisting that the car is operating according to factory specification and that it is safe to drive. My understanding is that this could result in an engine fire if the engine overheats, engine seizure, etc., any one of which could result in the loss of life, mine or my family.
This car has used more than 10 quarts of oil since new (not counting changes). It has just over 20k miles now and still uses oil. It does not smoke or leak. The fuel mileage is nowhere near the advertised mileage. The dealer was contacted regarding no brake lights just after purchase. After two trips to the dealer (and the service writer telling us that we removed the cigarette lighter adapter wrong), they discovered the wiring harness for the backup lights was crushed by the shifter in reverse and shorted the lights. After complaining about poor starting and shuddering after a cold soak, the dealer replaced the injector o-rings, which solved the shudder, but not the mileage. Nothing has helped the oil usage, not even the two trips to the dealer to replace a baffle in the valve cover and an "oil consumption" test, which we performed. Yes, it uses oil. I should've bought my daughter a nissan, or, like I just bought myself, a brand new ford pickup. This was my first and last daimler-chrysler product...ever!
Consumer state while traveling notice smoke coming from under hood. Consumer pull vehicle over and look under hood and notice flames on engine. Consumer close hood fire was put out. Vehicle was towed to dealer technician notice power steering hose was to close to the exhaust. Please provide further information. Ts
Car took on water from the "air intake" port causing me to stop--had no control of car when it stopped--according to the dodge dealer the engine seized from the rain water intake--same day it could not be started again--was from a rusted starter as per dodge dealer--car was sold back to dodge dealer at a loss
Consumer states the vehicle stalled while driving, the vehicle was towed to the dealership and consumer was informed that the engine had locked up, during inspection of the vehicle, it was pointed out to the consumer that the air intake port lays under the vehicle parallel to the wheel and is easily accessible to water coming off the road and being displaced by the moving tire, consumer argued that it should be considered a manufacturing defect since it seemed to be in the wrong location, the dealer stated it was not a manufacturing defect and that the vehicle should not have been driven in high water, however consumer disagrees and states that yes it was raining, but the water was not that high, the dealer replaced the engine block.
While driving in rainy weather drove over a small puddle of water and without warning vehicle shut off. Then, became inoperable. Dealer has been notified. However , dealer stated it was consumer's neglect on driving around puddle.mechanic stated water was able to get into engine.
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