This is the 2nd time the engine has stalled. First time was oct. 31st, 2013. Driving in residential street and acceleration decreases, car shutters, and wrench light comes on along with other indicators. Coasts to side of road. After about 2-3 minutes, starts up and able to drive home (approximately 2 miles).
2010 Ford Escape engine complaints
Page 6 of 19: complaints 131 to 160 of 528, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I was driving along a road and suddenly my car jolted and almost all of my dashboard lights lit up. The engine was on, but nothing was happening. I pushed the accelerator down and nothing, still. As I was pulling off to the side of the road, the car died. I waited five minutes and the engine was able to be restarted. But the engine light stayed on. I had to turn the engine on and off multiple times to restart the engine. This had happened a couple of times before, but nothing as severe.
While driving on surface streets the "wrench" indicator light came on and the car went into limp mode. I got to a parking lot and shut off the engine. After about a minute I restarted the engine, the wrench light went out and all seemed ok. After driving about 6-7 miles on the interstate a repeat of the problem happened. I again shut off the engine. After restarting, I drove for another 6-7 miles and had the car again go into limp mode. After restarting the car the engine light came on and stayed on with no further problems. The next day all lights were off and have stayed off since then. I have made an appointment to have the car looked at on jan 2, 2014. I feel that this is a very unsafe condition and should be looked at very closely by the federal safety agency.
Engine simply stopped operating in midst of traffic and immediately decelerated....then resumed operation but vehicle unable to move faster than a crawl....then stopped again....then resumed again. Was able to exit freeway and reach gas station. Turned off vehicle and called aaa for emergency road assistance. Vehicle was towed to ford dealership. Ford replaced the throttle body and motor asy which was on backorder for 2 weeks. Today, december 26 2013 the symptom has resurfaced. The engine simply stopped in the midst of traffic. Was able to pull out of the flow of traffic. Car restarted and was able to continue driving home.
My wife is the main driver of this vehicle and has told me that there have been several occurrences over the past several years including the most recent on december 18. 2013. There is a sudden unexpected engine acceleration similar to what the toyota vehicles have had. At this point it only occurs when slowing down. She applies the brakes but finds it difficult to slow with the engine attempting to accelerate. This last time I was riding with her and she slammed the gear shift into park just before coming to a complete stop. I didn't think that was too good for the transmission but it did correct the difficulty at the time. Have any other people experienced this problem ?
I had not had my vehicle for 3 months before experiencing a problem. On several occasions, I was driving and my SUV lost power. Each time, I had to pull off to the side, wait a few minutes, cut the csuv off and then back on until the car would start again. This made my travel very dangerous on the highway. Took my SUV to the dealership and at first they could not find what was wrong with it because the error had not registered. I had to wait until the check engine light came on to discover it was the throttle body. I had to pay over $300 to get it replaced. It took awhile for ford ran out of the part and had to order it from their warehouse. Luckily, the repair shop was able to find a replacement within 2 days. After having the throttle body replaced, it takes a while for the SUV to shift into gear and often feels like it is stalling or dragging.
Ford escape stalls while driving.
I was driving south on hwy 53, doing 55 MPH when the car jumped out of gear. The engine was still running at idlespeed, but when I depressed the gas pedal nothing happened. Also the wrench light and the engine light where both on. I had to pull off the side of the road to avoid traffic and shut off the engine. I waited a minute and it started right back up with only the engine light on. This was the 5th time this happened in 2 days and was the same each time. I drove straight to the dealer where I had bought it and they did a check and retrieved p2111 in koec, then performed etb internal ids pinpoint test. Etb or throttle body failed test. They replaced the throttle body and motor asy, which is a known problem, and charged me $432.65. I believe ford should have replaced this at no cost, since this is a known problem.
My wife was driving are escape and she was merging on the freeway. While trying to merge on the freeway she was traveling 60 MPH almost to highway speeds she went to merge in front of a truck and the escape stalled. We were almost hit by the truck because the vehicle had lost all power. We took the vehicle to a dealership and the vehicle was diagnosed with a bad throttle body.
Three times my car gas died with only 28k miles on it. First time I start the car proceed to drive up to fove MPH and have a total loss of power. Pedal to the floor and the rpms do not raise. This has happened two more times, both on the expressway where I had to coast to a stop in the far left lane and I was almost rear ended. Turn the car on and off and the problem went away the first two times, including the wrench light. Third time the engine light is still on. Owned the car for a smidge over three years and my warranty does not cover this. This is unbelievable.
Driving on four lane road when lost engine power to idle. Accelerator pedal non-responsive. Drove vehicle four miles back to home. Had to restart engine seven times to return home. Plugged in code reader, it stated the throttle body actuator sticking closed.
Occassionally, when the vehicle accelerates, usually between 0-50 MPH, the gas pedal locks, the engine stalls, and the check engine light appears. The vehicle must then be placed into park and turned off. When turned back on, the check engine light disappears and the vehicle functions normally. This has occurred three times in three months, once while merging onto a highway and twice while accelerating from a stop. Ford service explained this could be due to a failed throttle body part.
Began to run very rough. On july 13, 2013, I experienced a similar problem. Malloy ford in winchester, va, charged me $310 to clean the throttle body. After doing some research, I see this is a known problem, I'm disgusted with ford and the dealership.
Was driving the vehicle on the interstate at about 60 MPH and exited safely. Went through typical stop-and-go rush hour traffic for about 2 minutes until reaching work, in which the campus' speed is set to 25 MPH throughout. Vehicle was traveling on work campus a little under 30 MPH. Suddenly, the car stalled and the battery and oil warning lights had come on. Steering the vehicle to a safe parking place was difficult as the steering wheel had become tight. Once safely parked, the vehicle was turned off and after 5 seconds turned back on. The engine started up normally. Started driving the vehicle closer to where it was needed to be parked and the engine stalled again after 1000 feet and the steering went tight again. Turned off the vehicle again and after 5 seconds attempted to turn it back on. The engine had trouble starting but after an abnormal amount of time trying to turn over, the engine did. Was able to get the vehicle in the appropriate parking area. Vehicle has full tank of gasoline, 2000 miles over oil change recommendation by dealer, and factory battery. Vehicle has never been off-road but has been subject to easy snow accumulations since purchased from dealership.
I was driving down a very busy 5-lane road when all of a sudden a wrench appeared on my dashboard and my car had absolutely no power in the accelerator. It began idling irrationally and my car was shaking. I had it towed to the ford dealership to be fixed. It is the throttle body that is malfunctioning, and they guaranteed to me that it would happen again if not fixed. They informed me that there have been many vehicles with this same problem. Someone is going to be killed due to this! I was lucky that no one hit me- I could not even get over to the side of the road- my vehicle just had no power at all. If this happens on a highway, this could be horrific! I am extremely disappointed and upset that a recall has not been issued. There have been thousands of complaints, and nothing has been done. Someone is going to be severely hurt or be killed due to this issue!
While driving approx 20 MPH in a community to car slowed down to a crawl. It would not travel faster than approx 5 MPH. Happened again a week later. Took it to garage the computer read p2111 - throttle actuator control tac system - stuck open. Description; this powertrain control module PCM fault status indicates the throttle plate is at a greater angle than commanded. Possible causes; binding throttle body stuck open, tac motor circuit open, tac motor circuits are cross-wired, tac motor harness circuits are shorted together, damage PCM.
Driving on freeway, at about 65mph, when all of the sudden the engine stalled and power was cut dramatically from the engine. Unable to control speed and instantly started stopping. Had to pull over sharply and unsafely on the side of an on-ramp narrowly having car behind us miss us. Turned off vehicle and had to wait about 20 seconds before restarting the car. It then worked ok. Happened several times on one trip of about 20 miles. Took to a dealer and they diagnosed it as the throttle body needing to be replaced.
Our 2010 ford escape has had the exact problem described in the federal safety agency case number pe 13003. Our vehicle has 43,000 miles on it and driving to work on a fast moving city street at approx 45-50 MPH and the car lost all throttle control and went into the described "limp mode", no warning or check engine lights came on. We had a very difficult time controlling the car and getting it off the road while trying to dodge traffic. Limp mode does not describe the available power. At 900 RPM you can walk faster than the car will drive... The transmission is also acting as an engine brake and slowing the car even faster so I popped it into neutral and was able to coast to the side of the road. We turned off the ignition and restarted and the car started fine. Put it in gear and accelerated to approx 20 MPH and it went into limp mode again and this time the small wrench light came on in the dash. A gearbox or transmission problem? Luckily we were still on the side of the road so we again turned off the car and restarted to reset (wrench light went out) and it worked fine for the next 14 miles as we were going to the ford dealer. Just as we were arriving it did it a third time, this time the check engine light came on and they were able to retrieve the dtc code of 2112 and diagnosed a defective throttle body assembly. The service manager was not aware of any recall and charged us $589 dollars for the repair (part, labor, diagnostic test and calibration of the computer). We have been the only owners of this car and it has had all of its normal service done. At 43k miles it is, for all purposes, still a new car. Lucky for us it happened on city streets and not at highway speeds. Hopefully ford will issues a recall on these to repair them.
I heard a pop sound and there was no response when pressing on the accelerator. Idle was rough, I was able to coast into a parking lot.I let it idle and tried to increase RPM. There was no response to pedal. The car idle roughly. I shut car off and restarted. It cranked longer than normal, like it wasn't getting fuel. Then it ran fine. After about 20 more miles it repeated process, leaving me to coast off the road in traffic. I have a warning light (wrench) meaning throttle body or drive train on my dash during the shut down. I have had this vehicle in ford repair shops over four times for powertrain repairs, starting before warranty was expired. The last one ford would not cover the repair under previous warranty, even though the first repair during warranty period was never fixed. Now I am endangering myself and all those around me by the new problem. If the vehicle does this in a center lane a pile up could occur.
While traveling at a relatively low traveling speed the vehicle seems to lose power and I can no longer accelerate. The tool light/check engine light will come on and I can coast to a stop. Once I stop the vehicle I turn it off. When I restart the vehicle it hesitates for approx 6 seconds and then turns over/restarts with no further problems. This has occurred four times since 11/6/13.
The first occurrence I was driving in normal conditions at 40 MPH and the engine lost power completely and a small wrench lit up on the dashboard. I pulled over safely and shut the engine down, waited a minute and the engine started right up. The same thing began happening at least once a day. In traffic, on the highway. This problem has almost caused serious accidents. I called the dealer and they said they have no idea what it could be. I looked the problem up and there are numerous complaints. There should be a recall before someone gets seriously hurt!
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 50 MPH, the vehicle stalled. The contact mentioned that the wrench warning icon illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic however, the technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 68,500 and the current mileage was 68,771. Updated 12/30/13*cn the consumer stated the battery exploded.updated 01/14/14
First incident: 05/03/2013: AC stopped working properly. Car sputtered. Stopped. Would not accelerate. Dash lights came on: battery, wrench, etc. Lost power. Then would accelerate. Pulled over and had towed. Dealer ford service department inspected. Replaced bad floor actuator motor - cc42.. Fixed under warranty as owner was only 3 weeks out of 3 year warranty, with a mileage of only 34,646 miles. (invoice receipt: test codes performed by dealer: p2111, p2112, monitor pids. Oasis-ssm 32170. Replaced throttle body, reset kam, cc42.) second incident: 11/17/2013: similar to 05/03/2013 incident. Ac stopped cooling. Turned off car. Tried to start and dash lights came on. Car acted like it would start, sputtered and would not start back up. Waited 30 minutes. Car started back up. Left parked, as felt dangerous situation if were to occur on interstate. Will have towed to my mechanic for inspection. Why, if dealer replaced actuator motor 6 months earlier would same situation occur? There must be another issue causing the actuator motor failure other than the actual motor failure.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 ford escape. The contact was driving 5 MPH and preparing to stop for a traffic stop when the vehicle stalled. The oil and battery warning lights were illuminated. The contact was able to restart the vehicle, which proceeded to operate normally. The vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 86,150.
I was traveling west on I-10 from tallahassee, fl intending to go to pensacola, fl. I was driving the 70 MPH posted speed limit. As I neared exit 192 @ quincy, fl I heard a noise from under the hood that sounded like a clunk. The car's engine dropped below 1000 RPM and gradually slowed down. I pulled off to the emergency lane. The escape was towed to havana ford in havana, fl on sat., nov. 2, 2013. The service dept. Opened monday and I was informed that the throttle body broke. I had the throttle body and gasket replaced.
I was driving on the highway with my cruise control on when the cruise control shut off and a wrench light came on. The car stopped excelling and I had to cruise from the fast lane over 2 lanes to the side of the road. Once to the side I turned my car off waited a minute and then turned it back on. It turned on fine and ran fine from then on. I of course called ford immediately but it was after hours and I left a message. After about an hour of driving it began to shake my foot when I pushed on the accelerator. Prior to this I did feel some slipping or surges every so often when I was accelerating as if it was having trouble shifting. When I brought it to ford it was decided that my throttle body needed to be replaced. This was done fast and was covered under my extended warranty it was to be fixed for just my deductible of $100. All fine and dandy until I read the reviews that this has been going on for a while and multiple people have been affected.
While driving the engine stalled, but the lights and radio continued to work. We pulled over and put the car into park and attempted to restart the engine, and it started. However, just a couple of weeks later (this past weekend) it happened again. Both time we were traveling around 20-25 MPH on city streets, no warning on indication prior to the stalling, but when it does stall the oil and engine light comes on.
While traveling down the highway at approximately 70 MPH, the car suddenly loses power. The vehicle becomes unresponsive to throttle controls. Vehicle must be pulled off of the highway, onto the shoulder. The vehicle key must be cycled to reset the system. Being an active investigation, there should be known cases of the electronic throttle body failing on these cars. It is a safety concern, and the drive by wire design of the vehicle does not allow a throttle body to be cleaned.
While driving the freeway the engine loss power, the yellow 'wrench" light came on and I had to coast to the side of the road. I tried to rev the engine, no power but the engine was running with a rough idle. I turned off the car waited 3-4 min it started right up I continued on my way this has happened to me several times thru-out the months of sept., oct and the first week of nov.. Near the 15 of oct was the worst, while traveling home the car stopped several times, this time both service and wrench lights came on and I limped home, stopping/ restarting every block. On reaching home, I parked the car and there she stayed till about nov, 1st, when I started her up to keep the battery top off, when she started no warning lights were on. Ohh, I have the sinc system which offers a vehicle report and said its was caused by the throttle control unit, I've replaced the control unit today (11/06/2013) and hope this fixes the problem.
The car stalled while driving. The first time it stalled I was driving 65 MPH with children in the car with me. After I came to a stop, the car restarted and after driving 2 more minutes it stalled again at 45 MPH. After the second stall the engine light came on. I had a diagnostic report done and the report said "throttle actuator control system-stuck closed" and "detected the throttle plate is at a lower angle than commanded." I hope this is resolved quickly. It is not covered under my warranty.
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