The contact owns a 2011 Ford Fiesta. The contact stated while driving approximately 30 MPH at night he was informed that the exterior rear lights were not working. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer where it was diagnosed with junction box electrical failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 183,968. Lights stopped working inside, the rear exterior lights, and then the front lights. Ford reports VIN is not part of the recall, but consumer's vehicle has the exact same issue as the other ones. Diagnosed with corrosion from dealership.
2011 Ford Fiesta electrical complaints
Page 2 of 4: complaints 11 to 40 of 96, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Interior lighting stopped working. Rear lights stopped working and then front lights stopped working. There is a known recall on this, but Ford states it doesn’t include my VIN. However, when you go to the recall it shows the exact same issue with corrosion in the fuse junction box. Bill Estes Ford diagnosed it as corrosion of fuses in that box. Ford won’t work with me even though this is a known issue with 2011,2012,2013 Fiesta’s.I was almost rear ended not knowing my rear lights were not working in the dark.
The contact owns a 2011 Ford Fiesta. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle would not start, and the transmission warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The dealer and manufacturer were not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 92,000.
Took car to mechanic to have o2 sensors replaced at time of oil change. Auto shop completed oil change and changed o2 sensors, reset check engine light, but then car wouldn't start. Mechanic reassessed, found blown fuses in fuse box, noting dirt in fuse box and corrosion. Car was towed to ford dealership for further diagnostics as auto shop stated they couldn't do anything for ford ecu. Ford ran detailed diagnostics to again find that dirt and corrosion in fuse box LED to malfunctioning and car not starting.
My headlights keep going out and I keep changes the fuses. It lasts for about a month, then happens again. It's the fuse box. If canada can have a recall on this, because you need headlights to drive, it's a safety issue. Why can't the united states recall these cars and fix them. What's the difference. Canada cares more about there people's safety then the united states. Is that right. I was driving the car. It happened yesterday february 9, 2021.
Trouble with dash lights, seat heaters, traction control check engine light and battery light all on. Fuse box completely corroded exactly as described in canadian recall of fuse boxes on 2011 fiestas, I am in u.s. $1200 into attempting to solve problem, still will need to replace fuse box costing hundreds more.
Car won't start due to electrical issues in battery junction box. Transmission slips and stops engaging when driving due to electrical issues in the battery junction box. Car stalls when driving due to electrical issues in the battery junction box. Issues happen while driving in city traffic, almost was hit from behind at a light when the car stalled. I believe this should fall under customer program 17b16, stating: reason for this program in the affected vehicles, an opening between the bjb and its cover could allow water and debris containing road de-icing salts to enter into the bjb. This could result in corrosion inside the bjb for vehicles operated extensively in us corrosion states. Corrosion in the bjb may cause a variety of symptoms including loss of function of exterior lights, vehicle stall, vehicle no start, or loss of function of interior lights. I called and was given case number cas-27331475 and they told me my VIN was not affected, but obviously it is. Please help make this right.
On july 8th 2020 myself and my nephew was in my car after grocery shopping doing about 70 miles per hour on the freeway a door popped open all four doors this was the second time that I had this recall fix my nephew almost fell out the car ford is very aware they sent around an internal email at the beginning of this year about january about the doors popping open even after being fixed and they did not alert the public my transmission is causing problems again my transmission and my clutch and other parts of the transmission have been fixed more than 32 times the car is literally a deathmobile ford so this car knowing that all of these problems could happen I almost died in this car I am afraid to pick the car up from five star ford north richland hills please help me ford should have to return my $15,226 I paid for this car brand new my car has less than 60,000 miles on it my car still looks brand-new my car rarely gets driven this car is scary I'm afraid to drive it the doors continue to pop open while you're driving please help me I can be reached at [xxx] my is [xxx] please help me my car is at north richland hills five star ford right now and ford is refusing to pay for the clutch to be fixed again they knew that this class was bad thing with the transmission was bad they knew that the computer system after 30,000 miles would force the doors to keep popping open they knew this ford should be punished for doing this think about how many people are on the highway in this car me and my nephew could have died I am traumatized redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The past two days my car has been acting up seriously, the car doesn't want to go in reverse at all, the fan won't work.the windshield wipers come on every time you turn on the car. When you mess with the fuse box the car starts working fine. The fan smokes like no other so you have to take the relay out. The car also delays when gears are changing.
Failure to communicate with TCM / suspected to be related to recall on fuse box. Electrical communication between fuse box and TCM isn't working.
Recently my dash lights went out as well as my tail lights. Upon checking the fuse box located under the hood, I found it filled with sand and other foreign materials. Furthermore, all of the fuses were corroded and when I tried to remove them, they broke, thus I was unable to replace them. It is apparent that this is a design flaw with this equipment as the box does not properly seal even though it is exposed to the elements underneath the hood. After researching further, I discovered this is a very common problem among 2011 ford fiesta owners and that the repair for this is very costly. Because this is a known problem, it would seem that ford should be responsible for correcting this design flaw as this is a safety issue that makes the vehicle unusable after dark. Furthermore, I am convinced that other fuses will soon fail and then the vehicle may not be useful under any circumstances. In addition, I had been experiencing intermittent engine stoppages while at a stop light or when idling in traffic. There was no reason for this to occur and I suspect this is also related to the electrical fuse box issue. Would you please look into this issue and help protect consumers from a design flaw that is beyond our control. I've attached a photo of what the fuse box looked like the first time I ever opened it.
Work order with details is included.
Door from the driver seat side won't work but all the rest does
Car shudders excessively on acceleration. Will also lurch forward during acceleration. Grinding noises when car is on low speed (1-20 MPH). Rear taillights stopped working without warning.
When I purchased my vehicle new I had several problems with the transmission. After several trips to joe cotton ford in carol stream, il there was no remedy besides removing the cables from the battery to reset the vehicle's computer. On september of this year I received a letter from ford motor co. To advise that they need to do a software update due to a TCM circuit failure. I took my vehicle to friendly ford 333 e irving park, roselle, il, on monday november 11, 2019, so they can rectify the problem. Prior to taking my vehicle to the dealership I removed the battery cables. Apparently the dealership was not able to install the new software. The service advisor advised me that the card code reader was not able to identify the error message and they had to charge me. My vehicle was at the dealership for several days and they loaned me a car while it was in service. I was charged $199.00 for them to look at the problem and since they could not update the software I had to pay the bill. I called ford motor co. For assistance and the agent told me that there was little they can do since the dealership is a franchise. This is unjust that I was charged for something I was advised that would be free of charge. I hope to be reimbursed.
I just purchased the car on 9/14/2019. Low beam drivers front light doesn't work. So we thought a fuse or bulb. Not that. It is something electrical. The car does not start now. It's parked in my driveway. Have to get it towed to the dealer now. I don't know why they didn't take care of this. They knew there was a problem. The mechanics checked it, washed it and filled it up. So I called them back today. They said nothing. Now I have to pay more money to get my car fixed. They'll here from me again after it goes to the dealer.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 ford fiesta. While driving at any speed, the brakes squeaked, the steering lost power, and the check engine indicator illuminated. The vehicle was taken to friendly kia (877‑544‑6719, located at 5819 us-19, new port richey, fl 34652) where it was determined that the failure was due to humidity. The vehicle was then taken to ford of port richey (727‑233‑7143, located at 10715 us-19, port richey, fl 34668) where it was diagnosed that the brakes, transmission, and battery needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and referred the contact to the dealer. The vehicle was repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 14,000.
Since I bought this car used, I have had nothing but issues that are seemingly related to ford's dps6 transmission and electrical wiring. My gears slip out of place and my car doesn't seem to want to accelerate or slow down properly. My horn and front windows don't work and we've tried switching fuses and checking the door wiring. In relation to the transmission, I was on westbound i4 outside of downtown orlando around 2:00 4/24/19 (my birthday) and my car accelerated forward as I braked, which made me hit the car in front of me. There were no codes, no lights, no warnings on my car and it's under 100,000 miles. I was as a result faulted for my accident which skyrocketed my insurance. We spent money fixing the damage from the accident, not realizing that ford has been lying about their transmission. I bought this car used and have had it for less than a year and, the person who had it before me drove it as a work car. I attempted to bring my car in on 7/19, as I found an article from detroit free press about this problem saying ford dealerships would be able to attend to the issue. I called three dealerships and one hung up on me and the other two said that they couldn't help me. I do not feel driving safe in my car at this point as ford is dodging the issue at hand. I am a 21 year old supporting herself and I cannot afford to fix anymore issues that happen because of this insanely unbelievable error from ford.
This transmission bucks, shakes, and at time falls completely down on quick acceleration. Upon acceleration it just comes out of gear, and rev the engine. It is has been rebuilt several times, flashed TCM's at $120 a pop, but it is so dangerous it needs to be crushed. This model also has a poorly engineered negative ground wire that has cost time and money hunting 'ghost' sensor problems related to the transmission and engine. Drive this car as the evidence of failure! As a responsible owner I'm hoping it will not go to another victim.
Upon shifting into neutral and or just engaging the clutch the engine will shut off, usually as I approach a stop light or am in a parking lot. Sometimes it is a rough stop like the transmission was not fully disengaged, but most often it is smooth as if turning of the car with the key. The silent shut down occurs both while the vehicle is in motion, any where from 1-70 MPH, and when a complete stop has been reached. I have had this happen at least two dozen times in the 2.5 years I have driven this car. Approximately, 80% of the time it is the 'silent shut down', where I do not even notice the car is not running until I put the car back into gear and try to accelerate. I have almost been rear ended at stop lights in traffic several times because of this issue. This issue has occurred at all times of the year with the air conditioner both on and off, but it is much more prevalent in the warm weather with the air conditioner running. In the past week it has happened 3 times all of which were with the air on, and the engine silently shut down.
The vehicles transmission abruptly down shifted while driving at a high speed. I almost was rear ended had I not moved aside. This has happened twice. There have been numerous reports of faulty transmission and electrical problems where it stems from. I was a die hard ford owner until ford refuses to repair the issue. Maintenance has always been on time, and not just oil changes.
1) door latches are faulty. Any door can open while car is in motion. Also, door latch sensors are faulty and cause all interior lights to come on if it thinks a door is open. Happens within 1st mile driven every time since 80k miles. 2) in snow, the piece of body plastic in front of the front tires can get caught and dragged underneath the front tires. 3) electrical problems: fuse box rusts, prongs break off in fuse box. Sometimes pushing clutch in would cause lights to dim or speaker static (manual transmission). Problematic 12v (always hot) routinely broke 12v devices. Dealership was unable to fix this at last warranty maintenance. 4) several dealerships were unable to solve or find the cause of any of the following: brake rotor usually causes howling sound under 30mph after a few miles, (started around 50,000 miles) and car sometimes shut off while stopped & idling (rare, started around 70,000 miles). Also, manual transmission lever gets too sticky to move without extreme force unpredictably, (started around 25,0000 miles). Every time was told transmission fluid looks fine. 5) high pitched whirring sound and loss of power with AC or defroster, worse as time went on 6) car was sold because cost to repair faulty door sensors leading to headlights never turning off, thereby causing battery to drain below 12v regularly, exceeded the car's value. Car would not pass inspection with this issue & needed frequent jump starts. 7) extreme distraction: "sync" interface will cut off stereo audio without warning to try and connect to mobile phone for a vehicle health report in the middle of driving. 8) air flow sensor goes off frequently starting around 50,000 miles, only solution is spraying in lots of air flow sensor cleaner. 9) drivers side windshield wiper fell off about a dozen times, even dealership installed. Very unsafe car in my opinion.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 ford fiesta. The contact stated that the horn and interior lighting were inoperable without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that there was a short in the fuse box. The technician advised the contact to check for recalls. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that there was no recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 81,000.
Head lights all of a sudden stopped working, had been using car earlier in the night then had to run out again & no head lights, had fuse checked states fuse box corroded, shorting out fuses, while checking them car would no longer start, finally did get to work after checking all fuses. Seen article from canada about same problem but unites states doesn't seem to acknowledge there is a problem. This is definately a hazard if it can affect the car actually starting or shutting off
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 ford fiesta. The contact stated that the tail lights failed to illuminate. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who replaced the tail light bulbs and replaced the fuse. The mechanic found that the fuse box was corroded and needed replacement. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 ford fiesta. The contact stated that both of the headlights failed intermittently. The contact stated that the vehicle exhibited the same symptoms as listed in tsb number: 17b16. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed the vehicle and stated that the fuse block failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to the federal safety agency. The dealer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 109,000.
For the past few months I've been trying to figure out what's been happening with my vehicle. I have a 2011 ford fiesta. It is a manual. I'm not stalling it, but when I'm driving- whether I'm stopped or actually moving (even at 45 + MPH) it will completely shut off. The rpms sometimes fall 2-300 below randomly but will come back and keep going. However, when they fall and for whatever reason the vehicle can't figure out that the rpms should be higher, it shuts off completely. When it actually shuts off I have no warning. Here is the link I found on information about the ford focus recalls: https://www.wftv.com/news/national-news/ap-top-news/ford-recalls-nearly-15m-focuses-because-engines-can-stall/859721918 luckily I have a manual and I can shift into neutral and restart the car even when I'm going down city streets or busy intersections. This is an incredibly dangerous situation, and I've been trying to diagnose it for months. In a 10 minute drive this can happen as many as 3-4 times. There's no link to why it happens sometimes and not others. Shifting into another gear doesn't effect it. I have noticed after I get fuel it tends to happen more often, but I'm unsure if that's correlation or causation. Sometimes after I get fuel I can't even get back onto the main road with out the car dying completely. When it shuts off it will almost always turn back on just fine. I recently got my battery replaced thinking that that would have possibly solved the issue but it has persisted. Oil changes/tune ups don't fix it either. I'm unsure of what the exact issue is, but I did see that ford is recalling their focus models from 2012-2018 for an issue that sounds exactly what I'm experiencing. I would really like to see them open up their investigation to possibly include fiesta's like mine because it seems to be a related issue.
Tl* the contact owns a 2011 ford fiesta. While driving 60 MPH at night, the contact was pulled over by a state trooper who alerted her that the vehicle's headlights were not illuminated. The vehicle was taken to courtesy auto & truck center (103 e hill st, thorp, wi 54771) where it was diagnosed that the battery junction box had corroded all the headlight wiring, which needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and did not assist. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000.
Tails lights , dome lights inside of the car dash lights, radiator ( thermostat) failure causing over heating .and car shutting off while driving the fuse box is corroded , the box was not properly made as there is a vent hole on it allowing salt from the winter streets dirt water etc to enter the box and now we have to replace the box, fuses and several electrical cord issues . My phone is not allowing me to up load my photos
I purchased my vehicle in january of 2018. 3 or so weeks after purchasing the vehicle, my check engine light came on. It was the catalytic converter that needed to be replaced(fortunately this fell under warranty so it was no cost to me) at the time of purchase, I did not check to see if the AC was in working order since it was winter. Now that it's gotten warmer, I find that it does not work. The unit was charged and the compressor was not defective. After 3 hours of diagnostics, I was informed that the problem was water in the fuse box. The entirety of the fuse box was heavily corroded. All of the fuses had to be replaced, as well as foam seals placed, and dielectric grease placed on all the fuses to protect them from future damage. This fixed the problem with the AC, as well as a problem I was having with the vehicle jerking upon acceleration. I suspect that this may have been the reason for the catalytic converter failure as well. The issue has been recognized by ford but a recall has not been placed yet, so all of these issues are expected to be paid for by me. If the repair had been delayed any longer, I believe that more electrical/fuse issues would have surfaced.
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