I purchased this vehicle new in 2005. Within the first year and a half I started noticing that the dash lights would illuminate when the vehicle was parked, no keys in the ignition. The ABS and battery light would flicker on and off accompanied by a buzzing sound. The wireless remotes stopped working as well. I brought the vehicle to ford as it was still within the three year/36,000 mile warranty period. They said that they could not duplicate the problem. They re-programmed the wireless remotes. After this the problem continued with the flickering lights and buzzing sound and also the wireless remotes stopped working. I returned the vehicle to ford and they told me that the dash lights were malfunctioning and they would have to open up the dash, they quoted me $700 just to open up and diagnose plus the labor charges for whatever the problem was. This was right after the the year/36,000 mile warranty period was over. I mentioned that I had been to the dealership for the very same reason when the vehicle was under warranty but they could not find the problem. Ford said that the vehicle was no longer under warranty. Ford did not fix this issue and also said that the wireless remotes could not be reprogrammed. In the years since the initial problem, I have had to put in two new alternators. The dash lights flicker almost continuously. The dash display (speedometer, odometer, etc.) has completely cut out while driving the vehicle several time. The vehicle still operates but loses power when the dash cuts out. When the dash display cuts out you are driving without a gas gauge, speedometer, etc. When the dash lights come back on, there is a "hiccup" or power surge accompanied by the same buzzing sound that occurs when the dash lights are flickering when the vehicle is parked.
2005 Ford Focus electrical complaints
Page 3 of 5: complaints 41 to 70 of 113, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Tl* the contact owns a 2005 ford focus. While attempting to lock the vehicle, the contact noticed that the rear passenger side electronic locking mechanism failed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the contact was informed that the door lock actuator and locking assembly needed to be replaced. The vehicle has not been repaired. The current and the failure mileages were 92,000.
After starting the car when it has set a few hours the overdrive off light is flashes yellow, odometer just shows dashes, and speedometer dosent work. Car still operates but shifts gears hard, when it reaches the speed for door to lock everything starts working. I have had multiple problems with the engine mgmt fuse, and have had 3 altenators changed out in the last 2 years. Also I had a problem with key not coming out of ignition and found out that a peice of the shifter had broke off and slid down and kept it from going all the way into park, after removing part I have had no problem with the key. Also engine light stays on was told by auto zone it was vaccum system took it to ford place they said it was motor mounts, they were replaced 20,000 miles ago and it still hasnt helped.
Tl* the contact owns a 2005 ford focus. The contact stated that the key became locked in the ignition and would not allow her to start the vehicle. The manufacturer was contacted and they advised her to take the vehicle to the dealer for inspection. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and the current mileages were approximately 80,000.
Was driving 45 on a busy road and all the lights on dashboard flickered and the car went dead and had to drift off onto a median. Had 2 people look at the car and found that there was the 20 amp fuse out. Went to get another one we made sure all the wires were attached and nothing was loose, we turned the steering wheel a bit and with the new fuse in the car started, as we turned the steering wheel the car stalled again. Went back to the store bought 2 more fuses and got the car started drove 1 mile and it stalled again. Tried the 3rd fuse and nothing. Had to have the car towed to local garage 20 miles away from where it stalled. The garage states that the issue is in the dashboard and they have to take it to ford to have it tested to find the issue. Cost will be anywhere between $400 to $1000 to fix depending on what they find with the test. Got the call from the garage it is going to be fixed for $500. Money we do not have for bad wiring that is not our fault! Ford needs to step up and take responsibility because this seems to be an issue!
Tl* the contact owns a 2005 ford focus. The contact stated while driving 65 MPH all of the warning lights would flash on the dash board and the vehicle stalled, nearly causing a crash. The contact drove onto the emergency lane and restarted the vehicle within four minutes. After restarting the vehicle, the identical failure recurred. The contact drove the vehicle to a dealer who performed a diagnostic test which did not identify or duplicate the failure. The contact stated the failure occurred four times prior to taking the vehicle to the dealer. The contact was concerned since the vehicle was unsafe to drive. The failure mileage was 77,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2005 ford focus. The contact stated the check engine light constantly illuminated causing multiple failures with the vehicle. The failure was within the electrical part of the vehicle including the solenoid, transmission, valve body and the safety switch. The vehicle was taken to a dealer who performed a diagnostic test but did not diagnose a definite solution for the repairs. The manufacturer was contacted and stated there were no recalls or warranties on the vehicle and offered no other assistance. The VIN was unavailable. The failure mileage was 40,000 and the failure mileage was 43,000.
An electrical short in the rear wiring harness in the liftgate has caused the rear defrost, the rear wiper and the high-mount rear brake light to all fail, concurrently. The dealership has commented that this was a common problem with zx3 ford focus model and was as recalled service issue on a prior model year. It was also cautioned by the tech that fire could result.
Tl* the contact owns a 2005 ford focus. The contact was unable to release the key from the ignition. The failure was experienced numerous times and the vehicle was taken to the dealer in 2005 but the dealer did not replace the ignition switch. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was scheduled to have diagnostics performed at the local dealer. The failure mileage was 1,500 and the current mileage was 54,000.
2005 ford focus station wagon rear hatch: the wires that go to the hatch (near the top) are too short and so weak that after 26,000 miles the wires broke and due to this break/short the car would not go out of "park". The brake lights quit working and it blows one fuse after another fuse. Due to the wires being so short it is impossible to repair the breaks. This appears to be a very common problem from what I see on the internet. Ford should be liable for these repairs.
Just like all the other complaints. 'my key became stuck in the ignition and was stranded hundreds of miles from home" how thoughtful of ford to only charge me four- hundred dollars!
2005 ford focus will not start when the weather turns cold or will start but for no apparent resin just stops running no fuel pressure and fuel pump does not run when the problem arises when the weather turns worm the car starts and runs fine does not display any engine fault coeds. From what I have read this seems to be a ford problem that doesn't won't to except.
Intermittently keys get stuck in ignition, after a few days they usually come out may be weeks or months before it happens again, while driving I hear a clicking noise, lights in the dashboard and all the gauge lights start flickering, if you shut off the car it will not start again and lose all power, no lights, locks anything power shuts down, I have been stranded due to this problem. Have already had some wires replaced, problem still continues ..when it happens the car starts to hesitate, very dangerous if on an interstate or going through an intersection..car is back in the shop again for this issue, only 54000 miles on the car...even when I get it back from shop this time am afraid to drive the car, I was told it was fixed last time, who is to say that it is truly fixed this time, don't want to be stranded or in an accident.
The ignition in the ford focus falls apart and you are stranded!!!. I had my handicapped daughter with me and it was night. I can imagine a young woman by herself with this problem. You cannot be jumped or a mechanic cannot look at it. The only solution is to be towed, which for us was 49 miles away. Very unsafe for my daughter and me. We had to leave her walker behind and she was without it (immobile) until I could retrieve it. This car had less than 50,000 miles on it and had all checkups and everything up to date.
Having problem with alternator and keys stuck in the ignition for 2nd time in two years. Key will not release but will turn.
Driving at 50km/h, ABS and brake lights come on, shortly after all electrical systems shut down, including power steering, front lights, gauges...everything. Engines continues to run, when the vehicle slow to almost idle, engines stops. Unable to restart, no ignition no sign of life whatsoever. Waited 20min, was able to start engine, electrical came back and drove for 5min before same thing happened. Dealer identified a faulty alternator, car has 135000km.
Ford focus 2005 wagon. Noticed that electric lock will not open hatch back, but took no action to correct. Incident: could not move shift lever out of park leaving motorist stranded. Found that shared brake light fuse was blown. Replaced fuse, but wondered about root cause so tested brake lights. Immediately noticed that brake lights remained on when brake pedal was not pressed or pressed. Realized that this is a major safety concern, as other drivers will not be aware when the brake is pressed. After web search, I observed many documented cases of damaged wiring harness; I opened the hatch and removed the rubber boot covering the wiring harness. Immediately observed that several wires were severed and others damaged.
This is for all the people who had problems with their key being stuck in the ignition. I had the same problem, and I discovered that if the floor shifter is not locked the key won't come out. Make sure the floor shifter is locked in park and the key should come right out...if it doesn't work then you obviously have other issues with the problem.
Intermittently car will seem to short out for split seconds. If I let it idle all is ok but as I apply the gas the split second short comes back. This can happen at various speeds and sometimes if I go over some bumps all becomes ok. Friend with a madza3 had similar problem hat was fixed by changing the solenoid.
Key got stuck in ignition and won't come out of the ignition. Had to lock key in car and use remote to lock car. Second incidence of this on here so looks like it could be a recall in the future for the 2005 ford focus.
I'm having problems with the car hesitating while driving. This has repeatedly happened. I have a little over 90,300 miles on the car. It really scares me when I'm going at least 60 MPH on the highway and press the gas to accelerate and then get the hesitation or pullback as if it is going to cut off. I'm afraid it is going to cut off while I am driving it. It also happens when I'm driving 35 MPH. When this happens and I cut the car and start it back up, the clock resets to 12:00 and the radio comes on blasting. My lights flicker when it happens at night. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the fuel pump module. This has not helped one bit and I am out $462. They have quoted me a price of $1500 if the fuel pump module replacement did not work. They tell me it will probably be the PCM that needs replacing.
Hatch wiring harness fatigued and developed broken wires in the bend area of the wiring harness causing a short circuit. This resulted in loss of stop lamp function & harness burning.
Excessive heat from taillight/brakelight bulb caused plastic housing to distort and brake lights fuse to burn out, causing loss of rear brake lights. Potential for rear end collision & wiring fire. After fuse was replaced, wiring smoldered until new fuse also burned out.
The hatch back lid started opening when the rear window defrost was turned on. This has resulted in many inadvertent opening of the lid while driving. While researching, I found a recall for the 2000 ford focus assigned the federal safety agency 00v411000. I pulled back the rubber boot which protects the same wire harness at the hinge point of the lid. I discovered multiple cracked and exposed wires, and on wire broken it two. I desire for this to be a recall item just as you did for the 2000 model. I have pictures if you desire.
Key stuck in ignition and will not lock into key position #; therefore, gear shift will not lock appropriately when car is off.
The decklid wire harness has fatigued breaking 2 internal wires in the bend area. As a consequence, rear windshield wiper and decklid latch remote release function are lost. Because it is in the same harness, loosing stop lamp, defrost or vehicle registration lamp functions it just a matter of time. This failure mode has already been described only that with a different effect (loss of stop lamp). Please refer to your campaign id: 00v411000.
Could not get key to release from the ignition of my 2005 ford focus. Had to leave car unlocked, with key in ignition overnight. Still cannot release key. A child could get into the car and start it up with tragic consequences. Many reports on the internet about ford focus ignition cylinder problems, including key-lock issues. I am a single mother who works in retail management, and I get out late at night from work quite often. If my key locks up, I could be stranded in a darkened lot and vulnerable to crime. Ford is aware of this problem, had been for years, and has not taken accountability for it. This is absolutely inexcusable for a major corporation..
Ford focus 2005- the key will not come out of the ignition, after putting the car in park, and turning the ignition off. I took it to ford, and they charged me $300 for replace the ignition cylinder. They said they were 90% sure it would fix the problem. Well, it didn't. It is still happening. They now say maybe it's some cable, but it will cost $450 to fix it. They also refuse to apply the $300 for the last unnecessary fix to this fix. I see on the internet that thousands of focus owners have this problem. Ford refuses to acknowledge that this is a problem.
The key cannot be removed from ignition.
2005 focus key stuck in the ignition. I disconnected the negative side of the battery and the key came out.
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