On tuesday, august 14 I was making my way to work and merging on to a busy road when my car stopped move, there was no warning, no check engine light, nothing. I pushed the gas, but wouldn't move. By some miracle the car behind me did not hit me and I was able to get to the side of the highway. Once there, my check engine light began to flash. Once I was able to get the car to a shop, it was determined it fell under tsb 11-8-2. The fix for this, a new PCM, 6 coils, 6 spark plugs, valve cover gasket, tube seals and an air filter element, not to mention a tow to the local ford dealer toload the new PCM. Pcm's in 2006-2008 ford fusions, 2008 ford taurus, 2007-2008 ford edge, 2006 lincoln zephyr 2007-2008 lincoln mkz, mkx and mercury 2006-2008 milan and 2008 sable are faulty and ford knows it!
2006 Ford Fusion electrical complaints
Page 3 of 4: complaints 41 to 70 of 71, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Ac / climate control evaporator temperature sensor (eatc) fails to register set temperature causing loss of compressor operation for the purpose of defogging the windshield creating a visibility hazard, as well as the inability to cool the passenger compartment. System blows only warm / hot air, fogging the windshield and creating a visibility hazard.
I have started having problems like everyone else is describing with my 2006 ford fusion. I have owned my car for 2 months. I get home from work & go to get out of the car & the key will not come out of the ignition. From reading the other complaints on here I figured out it has something to do with the shifter button. Something is breaking on/in the shifter button & it's not allowing the car to think it has been put in park, thus not allowing the key to come out of the ignition. You have to mess with the silver shifter button & if you can find it's happy spot you will be able to get the key out. I just can't believe that ford made this car with such crappy plastic parts!! I'm starting to wish I wouldn't have bought this car. The silver is peeling off of the inside door handles also! This car is in excellent condition & has not been treated rough, so I don't know why it's starting to fall apart. Ford needs to recall these issues with the 2006 ford fusion's!! I will never buy another ford vehicle after this.
Bought the car used with approx. 45,000 miles on it from ford dealership. Within a week I was back at the ford dealership I bought it at. The car would not accelerate, stuck in gear, jerk violently. They gave me a loaner car to drive, another 06 ford fusion. They told me there was nothing wrong with the car and it was the way I drive. I told them I didn't have any problems with the loaner car or any other car I've ever driven or owned. They insisted I was wrong. Over the next month I brought the car back to the dealership and encountered the same resistance. The problem got progressively worse and dangerous to drive to the point where I would be going 60+ MPH on a highway and the car went into neutral. The transmission completely failed in 2010, at that time I had it replaced, costing $3,000. May 31, 2012 - approx 65,000 miles. Similar problems again. Car would not accelerate, very hesitant, entire car shakes violently while driving. Check engine like came on. I took the car to my mechanic, he tested and determined three coils went bad. Looked in the car and discovered the coils had actually melted. With research, determined the computer system had failed. Coils and computer system need to be replaced. Approx cost (so far) - $1500.00.
Cruise control started malfunctioning. I have five controls for my cruise control. The resume cruise just stopped working. The +set button which is suppose to set cruise or speed it up now resumes cruise. The - set now sets the cruise and speeds the car up and not the on and off are only working sometimes. This is a real safety issue because myself of someone else could his the - set button trying to slow our vehicle down and instead of slowing down the car speeds up.
2006 fusion sel. 1) ignition key gets stuck in ignition. Approximately 9 incidents beginning may 2009 of parking the car, turning off the motor, key cannot be removed from ignition: 3-4 times the key could not be removed for over 48 hours; 4 - 5 times within 12 hours.. Car can be locked if using the second remote-control key, but will unlock all doors with in 5 seconds when lock on the inside door is pushed and door is closed. Have had the alarm go off 3 times when car door is opened after car left unattended for 15+ minutes, unlocked, with key stuck in ignition, but alarm has not sounded at all times for the same scenario. 2) chrome veneer on interior front door handles wrinkling and peeling. Problem was beginning to show it self when car was purchased.
The car went into "limp" mode for no reason. Vehicle would not go faster then 20mph. This cold of caused an accident. Took to local shop and was told a sensor in the electronic throttle body was bad and therefore could not read throttle position accurately, sending the car into "limp" mode. New throttle body cost $600. If this would of happened at highway speeds this would of been a serious safety issue due to not being able to control vehicle speed without any notice.
The turn signals and high beams no longer work during operation. All fuses and relays were checked and all fine. The parking lights do work when head lamps are on, work when hazards are turned on, and also flash when locked with key fob. But when using turn signal stalk nothing happens and therefore can not signal to turn or change lanes. Also high beams do not activate in any position of the signal stalk. The sjb is the source of the problem.
Early may 2011 I was driving home at 65mph and I lost 5th gear. Then 4th gear. On way to dealership I lost 3rd gear. Warranty covered a brand new transmission. They claim after a week they finally got the transmission in and installed but they were waiting on a part for it because the transmission came with a part for a mazda 6 and wouldn't work. After two weeks they were finally done. Took vehicle back to dealership on 09/26/2011 stating great difficulty getting vehicle to shift out of park. Also stated there is an excessive amount of heat coming from the console in to the cabin above the transmission. Also stated the transmission is shifting very hard at times. Ford called today and stated the transmission has no problems at all and that I can't get out of park because the shift interlock sylionid needed to be replaced requiring that everything from the shifter and everything below all the way to the floorboard would have to be replaced costing over $400. I have found hundreds of complaints online
Tl* the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to accelerate when the accelerator was depressed. The failure caused another vehicle to crash into the contact's vehicle. The vehicle was taken to both the dealer and a private repair shop where the repair shop confirmed that the throttle malfunctioned and a calibration was needed for the electrical system software. The manufacturer was contacted, but the vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 72,000 and the current mileage was 100,000. Kmj
I too have a 2006 ford fusion se with a smartbox malfunction. My driver's side directional signal doesn't work. My mechanic said he checked all the wires lending to the box and they are fine, it's the box. It will cost around $600 to replace. Ford no longer makes this part, so he has to search junkyards for it. He can't reroute the wires because the directional signal in the back is located in the place where he would reroute it. I now have a vehicle that will not pass inspection, that I can't drive "safely" and if the part is found I will have to take out a loan just to pay to get fixed. Why!
I owned a 2006 ford fusion, this car caught on fire at 4am. It was ruled as an electrical fire. There were no problems leading up to this fire.
Since I bought the car in spring of 06, bulbs need to be replaced quite frequently. When I change them, the old bulb looks black and burnt. A few days ago, I was driving and my front, right directional stopped working. I replaced the bulb, thinking that was the issue again, but it wasn't. I took it to the dealership and they said the smart junction box needed to be replaced because it shorted out internally. Estimate is $600 after I had to pay $100 just to find the problem. That seems like an expensive fix for one directional. I can't afford that right now, so I can't fix it. Seems ridiculous. Car has 85,000 miles on it.
Front driver's side indicator/hazard light not working. Left rear driver side works. Consensus is either a smart junction box or headlight harness. Cost of repairs around $600 not including labor. Very costly for one turn signal. Big mistake on ford's part.
In 2006 I bought a 2006 ford fusion. I have had problems since I got it blowing bulbs in the turn signals. I now find out that it is my smart junction box causing this and ford motor will do nothing about it. Part of the smart junction box is melted together. This is ford's faulty design and their fault.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. The contact stated that the keys would not release from the ignition unless the button on the gear shift was pushed in to release the key. The contact had to remove a piece of plastic in order to remove the key from the ignition switch. The contact noticed numerous complaints regarding the failure. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a dealer for a diagnostic test. The failure mileage was 34,000.
When driving on the interstate under cruise control, the engine suddenly dropped to idle and would not respond to the throttle. Fortunately I was able to coast to the side of the road without being hit from behind. The car showed two warning lights: traction control and throttle control. The car would still not respond to the throttle. After turning off the car and restarting it, the lights went out and the car was drivable again. I took the car to the dealer, who cleaned the throttle body, flushed the fuel injectors and reprogrammed the PCM. Whatever actually happened, the fail safe condition should not be to shut the engine down to idle without the ability to control the engine speed. It was just fortunate that the car was not hit from behind.
I am unable to remove my key from my ignition unless I remove a piece of the shifter on my transmission.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. The contact stated that the key was stuck in the ignition. He had to use the spare key to lock and unlock the doors. Since the key was stuck in the ignition he left it there. Eventually the contact was able to remove the key from the ignition; however, the failure continued to occur. The dealer was contacted and stated that they could replace the key for $180.00 at the owners expense or replace the entire shift assembly for approximately $500.00. The drivers side door handle was also defective. The failure and current mileages were approximately 92,000.
Right front side turn signal light failed inspection replaced bulb and electrical harness, still no power. Diagnosed as defective smart box ford estimates it at $800 to replace. *tr 4 year old ford fusion (summer 2006)
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. While the vehicle was parked the contact attempted to remove the ignition key. The key would not release after several attempts. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the steering wheel column was removed to assist with the removal of the ignition key. However, the technician was unable to remove the key. The contact stated the vehicle was being driven even though the ignition key was not removed. The vehicle had not been repaired at the time of the complaint. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000. The VIN was unavailable.
Bought a used 2006 fusion 6 months ago, and the smart junction box (sjb) apparently shorted out. It happened right after it rained, and was acting up a couple months ago after heavy rain as well, leading me to believe that there is moisture getting to it somehow. Replacement would cost over 600$ and if there was moisture getting to the original one, how long will the new one take to have the same thing happen, another 4 years?
The contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. His keys continued to get stuck in the ignition and he cannot remove it. The vehicle was taken to dealer and was told it will cost $400 to be repaired because of no recalls and warranties on this failure. The ford manufacturer was not called. The VIN is unknown. The failure and current mileage was 23,000....mw
I purchased my ford fusion in april 2006. Since then, I have had a number of problems. During the same year of purchase, the rear left tail light and a fuse blew. About a 1 1/2 years later the same rear light blew. In 2009, the driver side door handle broke from the inside of the door panel, the air blower began spontaneously coming on by itself when the air or the heat is not on,I replaced a battery and the car began to hesitate when accelerating. Last but not least in 2010, today actually, I park my car and was unable to remove the key from the ignition. I plan to go to the dealership tomorrow to determine the cause and resolution to this particular issue. I have paid over hundreds of dollars for all these repairs, which occurred right after my warranty was up.
2006 ford fusion key will not come out of ignition; gear shift does not go into park even though it looks as though it has.
2006 ford fusion key will not come out of ignition; gear shift does not go into park even though it looks as though it has.
Tl* the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. He cannot remove his vehicle keys from the ignition. The vehicle has not been inspected by the dealer. The failure mileage was 29,300.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. The contact turned the ignition to the "off" position; however, the ignition key failed to release after several attempts. The key is currently in the ignition. An authorized dealer was notified of the malfunction. The vehicle has not been repaired. The contact had concerns of the safety risk involved. The VIN was rejected from the system. The failure and current mileages were 63,000.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 ford fusion. The contact stated that after parking the vehicle she could not remove the key from the ignition. She is unable to drive the vehicle and safely secure it. The vehicle has not been diagnosed to determine the cause of the failure. The manufacturers representative stated that since her vehicle exceeded its warranty they would not be responsible for any repairs. The failure and current mileages were 24,000. Updated 10/13/09. *lj the consumer was told the key getting stuck in the ignition was driver error. Updated 10/13/09. Jb
I have about 30,000 miles on my car. Due to a leak at my oil filter (info provided by dealer) my oil level got too low. My oil light flashed on twice but did not remain on. I checked and added oil. I drove it into the dealer two days later. They ran tests and said my bearings were bad and I needed a new engine. My check engine light never came on and my oil light never stayed on. Because I have no receipts from my oil changes this will not be covered by warranty.
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