While driving 55 MPH the intake manifold split without warning. As a result all the coolant and water leaked from the engine. The cause had not been determined. Please provide additional information.
2000 Ford Mustang engine complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 38 of 38, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Owner was complaining that the engine light keeps coming on. Owner took the vehicle to the dealer and was told that they were not responsible. Owner took the vehicle to another dealer and was told that the catalytic converter had been removed causing the vehicle to shut down due to excessive heat. Provide further details.
While driving at an undetermined speed engine check light appeared. Consumer contacted dealership on four separate occasions, but problem recurred.
Consumer stated while traveling, the engine stalled. Vehicle is now in its fifth repair. Dealer has been contacted. Please provided any further information.
The vehicle muffler failed and caused an accident. The front and rear end of the vehicle was damaged and the hood flew open and shattered the windshield. *ts
Consumer cannot fill up gas tank completely. Vehicle checked by dealer 4 times, and problem still exists. Dealer has replaced fuel filler pipe, tube assembly, fuel vapor control valve solenoid and fuel vapor storage canister assembly.
This is the 2nd air pump to be replaced on vehicle. Engine check light illuminated, indicating a loss of performance. Engine was sluggish and idling high at stops. Ford was contacted. Please provide more information.
Engine check light came on so I took the car to a local dealer. He informed me that the eec test code was p0411 which deals with emissions. When the dealer removed a hose to inspect the component, water came out of the hose. The dealer informed me that the entire air pump was full of water and had "burned" out as a result. I will have to have the pump and relay replaced at a cost of $275 for parts and $120 for labor. He further informed me that this was extremely rare and he did not know how the water could have gotten in to the pump. I called ford customer care and informed them of the problem and they informed me that they had no other complaints of this nature, but would file the information away for future reference. According to the dealer, this "problem" does not affect driveability of the car, and since virginia doesn't require emissions control testing, there is no requirement to have it replaced, however, the "check engine soon" light will remain on until the air pump and relay are replaced.
The problem is the engine stalls. This happens when the engine is warm or cold. It also happens after the clutch has been disengaged after being at speed and the rpms are decreasing to the programmed idle RPM. However, instead of stopping at the idling RPM, the engine RPM dips to low and the engine stalls. I lose power steering and brakes which cause a very dangerous situation. I also noticed that this happens more often if I am going around a turn or turning on the AC (both items require more power from the engine)while disengaging the clutch. In total, this has happened 5 times during the 30500 miles. *ts *jb ****dimsii ivoq entry posted after 12-12-02 cut over to artemis****761876
When clutch disengages rpms drop too low and vehicle stalls. Loses all power steering and brakes. Dealer can not identify cause. *ak consumer adds engine stalls easier if A/C is on, and/or when brakes are applied. Dealer replaced powertrain control module and mass air flow, but problem still exist. Also consumer is a hearing metallic ticking noise on cold engine. Air bladder deflates after 1/2 hour. Dealer replaced seat air bladder. Drivers side front and back window will not seal after rolling up at times.
Car kills out frequently when turning; when the car stalls out, the wheels lock up and nearly cause accidents. The stalling began immediately after we pruchased the vehicle. When I took it into the dealer, they stated there had been numerous complaints of the mustang gt's killing out around corners. They have no fix at this point and have made no concern for my safety. I've nearly gotten into a hand full of accidents because of this "defect". I'm riding around in a brand new car that I consider very unsafe. You never know when it will stall out and lock up. The dealer initially stated they believed the stalls were caused by the hot weather. Well, it's now december in denver, co and it's quite cold out and the car is still killing out around corners. Within the last 3 months, the problem is occuring even more frequently. The problem seems to be getting worse at time progresses. Ford has not offered me a replacement vehicle until they can figure out the problem. This is my only vehicle to and from work and I put my life in jeopardy everytime I drive it. My warranty expires at 36, 000 miles and I will be left to deal with this problem that I've had since day one of my purchase.
Consumer was going about 3 MPH when vehicle tapped a pole and both air bags deployed. No damage to vehicle except scratch on right side of bumper. Contacted dealer, and dealer tested air bag sensors detected in a crash . Consumer has no recourse.
The engine stalls while driving, in traffic, on the freeway, where/whenever. It just cuts out, whether the engine is warm or cold. We have had it to 5 different dealerships to fix the problem and they say there is nothing wrong or they don't know what's wrong.
Engine failed after owning car for only 2 weeks. Car died in the middle of an intersection. Tow truck picked it up, and dealership said that the engine harness was not properly wired. Air conditioning made loud noises when running. Dealership said that the water was dropping directly on to the 1500 degree exhaust pipe causing the loud noise. Because the heat shield wasn't properly functioning, dealership placed a pipe underneath to divert the water.
Egr valve failed.
Car died out while driving at 45mph, almost went off the road because power brakes went out. This is happening to a lot of 1999-2001 mustang gts and ford seems to not know how to fix it.
Upon rapid deceleration, engine stalls. When this occurs, all power assist features (brakes, steering) are lost. This has happened several times and has been dismissed as "not able to recreate" by the dealership.
Consumer states she has had to take vehicle in for several repairs, she experienced a burning smell and smoke coming from the engine, which resulted in oil getting on the engine due to dealer leaving the oil cap off, also water pump had to replaced, as well as the rocker arm gasket.
Fuel consumption is not what it should be, vehicle is a 6cyl, 3.8 ltr engine, 15gl tank, consumer gets 200-210 miles per tank, not 320-340 as owner's manual states. Vehicle has been to dealer 4 times for this, cannot remedy. Twice vehicle was picked up by consumer and vehicle had been dented while at dealer.
Vehicle will intermittently stall when I am attempting to come to a stop. When this happens I lose my power brakes and this has caused me to have to swerve to avoid hitting the car in front of me. This has happened at least 6 times. Dealer replaced fuel pump the first time. The second time the idle air control valve. And third the same iac valve. It will still stall. I believe this to be a serious safety issue and am filing the lemon law.
Engine stalled.entire power would go down. Vehicle will begin to stall without prior warning at any speed. Vehicle has been taken to the dealer on nine different occasions, but omputer did not shown any signs. Dealer has not provided any type of remedy.
While driving fumes would come inside through passenger's compartment. This would cause driver to get headachs & nausea. Fumes were carbon monoxide. Have taken to dealership 3 times, each time mechanic could not solve problem. *ak the dealer could not fix the problem but the fume created considerable health problems to the consumer.
Engine stalls when full braking applied at highway speeds, causing sudden loss of power assisted steering and braking. 2 seperate instances. Dealer checked and found nothing noteable, made minor adjustment to throttle settings. 1 week later, second instance occurred, motor dying 3 times. Driver forced to place manual transmission in neutral, depress clutch, and restart motor, which restarted each time, but forced driver to attempt to start car, control car, and stop car simultaniously.
Car since new has had a multitude of failures to include the total failure of the parking brake, total evacuation of the master brake cylinder of fluid, brake go to the floor, clutch assembly vibrates to the point it is audable in the car and can be felt in the controls, rear end claunks, the body is miss alligned, engine misses at idle, these are all problems since new, ford has just looked at the car for the fifth time and has failed to respond to major safety items.
Converter glowing orange and making noises equivalent to hammer hitting metal. Heat can be felt coming through driver's side floor board to the point that it feels as though heater is on high. Was told this is normal, converters run up to 1800 degrees, and should only be concerned if it hits 2000 degrees. How am I supposed to know what temperature it's running?
Consumer was traveling about 45mph on the highway, applied clutch and power went out. No power steering/no brakes. No prior warning. Vehicle just stopped. Vehicle was at the dealership . Mechanic could not duplicate the problem on the diagnostic machine.
Vehicle was leaking oil from underneath the hood. Also, consumer was traveling about 65mph and looked though rearview mirrior and noticed black smoke coming from the exhaust pipe.
When I come to complete stops, (e.g. @ a red light) the tachometer slowly rises to 3,000 - 3,500 RPM's and the engine compartment shakes and roars as if I am accelerating. This has occurred at least 35 times since the original occurrence on 12/19/1999. I have not driven the vehicle since 02/29/1999. The car has been to two ford dealerships six time to fix the problem. The following items have been replaced: air bypass valve, iac (3 times - they claimed each one, including the original was faulty), on board computer. Yet the problem still persists. Ford has finally agreed to reacquire my vehicle. I have spoken to other 2000 mustang gt owners (all with vehicles built in 09/1999) they also have idle issues. The two I have spoken with have a reverse problem. Theirs idle so low, the vehicle stalls. I think ford should look into the gt's that were built early in the model year. I have not heard of anything with the gt's built later in the year.
VIN decoder
See the problems and recalls for an exact car
Buying a used 2000 Ford Mustang?
Check the exact car before you pay: accidents, salvage or flood titles, odometer readings and previous owners.
Check its history