Front brakes and back brakes; when applying brakes, the failed, vehicle didn't stop. Rotors/calipers/ drums shoe pads were defective. Also, radiator/ oil pan, and steering power assist: hose: fluid were leaking. And dealership had to replace them.
1991 Ford Taurus brakes complaints
Page 2 of 4: complaints 11 to 40 of 74, newest first, as owners wrote them.
The flexible brake line in the right rear fender well developed an obstruction at the point where an intermediate clamp is installed to secure it to the strut. This caused it to act as a check valve, thereby not releasing the caliper, which caused it to overheat and set the rubber components, wheel bearing grease, and plastic hubcap on fire.
My compresser went out within a few monthes of me buying the car. Wheel bearings are out, and airbag light won't quit blinking the dealer said it would cost $400 to find out why.also, rear defroster never worked I have replaced the shocks/struts/ brake rotors and pads.
While driving in warm weather with temparatures above 75 degrees, consumer would remove foot from the brake pedal and apply to the gas pedal, however vehicle would not move unless the gas pedal was pushed hard, dealer thought the problem to be a faulty sensor assembly and defective fuel pump, after replacing these the problem did not go away, a dealer drove vehicle and noticed the brake pedal would not come up completely back to where it should be, consumer has to keep her left toe under the brake pedal to make sure it stays up.
Tires failed. Nlm
Brakes will lock at random (usually when hot), power assit blew out high pressure line connection
When applying the brakes brake pedal will go straight to the floorboard, and the engine will lift up and rub against the frame of the body.
I have always maintained this vehicle in accordance with manufacturers specifications and retained receipts to substantiate this claim. The vehicle has proven to be unreliable and a risk to operate even when maintained within manufacturers specifications. Considering the scope and frequency of major component failure with this vehicle, the manufacturers recommended maintenance schedule has no relationship to the subject vehicles operational characteristics. Based on my experiences and other reports in print on this particular make and model, ford produced a vehicle (thousands of them) that present an obvious safety hazard to the occupants of the vehicle and to the general public. This vehicle was designed as a 8 passenger family car. The opportunity to significantly injury the occupants due to a major component failure or combination of major component failure must be above acceptable risk standards established by the federal safety agency. I have been fortunate that all of the major component failures have occurred at reduced speeds and not in conjested seattle/tacoma freeway traffic situations. The last transmission failure occurred one day after my family traveled to seattle to enjoy seafair and if it had occurred on I-5, it could have resulted in serious injury to my entire family of 5. At what point does the federal safety agency take action against a manufacturer for producing a vehicle that is a known lemon that has serious safety concerns.
Transmission failed.
While driving at any speed and applying the brakes to stop vehicle will jerk/vibrate and stall and die out. Also, when slowing down, vehicle will jump out gear, and now vehicle won't move at all.
Original transmission was fixed 3 times and then finally replaced, all under warranty. The replacement transmission lasted about 70000 miles, and then has had the same types of problems, and has been replaced. The front right motor mount broke several times and continually the top bolt vibrates loose. The mount has just been replaced again. The front wheel rotors continually go bad, and have to be replaced, especially the right one.
I have failed to understand why all I have had with my vehicle was problems till this day.
Anti-lock brakes seem to engage during cornering to the right with your foot on the brake to slow down (occassionally). The brake pedal then violently jerks your foot, hard enough to bruise. The system also engages upon brake application on wet or sandy surface and violently pushes pedal up against the foot applying the brake, sometimes bruising the bottome of the foot. This has knocked my foot off the brake pedal upon occasion.
Brakes failed, resulting in lock up.
Brake problem was brought to dealers attentions 3 times, finally the third time they told me the rotors needed to be replaced, but my car was supposedly not part of the recalled vehicles with rotor problems. I have learned that since my vehicle was purchased * registered in mail, it was part of the recall. I would like the dealer to refund what I paid for rotor replacement by their service department.
A loud scrubbing noise heard when brakes are applied. When driving and applying the brakes, extended stopping distance occurs, dealer not aware of the problem, problem occurs at any speed on wet or dry pavements.
Rear drums are out of round for unknown reason. Dealer notified.
Rear brakes self adjustment mechanism failed to work properly; dealer notified.
Brake booster failed.
Had taken vehicle to dealer. Was informed that motor mounts were cracked & broken & needed replacing. Motor mounts need replacing again for same problem. Had to replace axles, front disc brakes rotors & cv boots. Replaced also, according to mechanic.
The entire rotor detached from the steel hub at the attachment point. Subsequent inspection of the second rotor revealed the that it to was failing.
Transmission failed.
Brake pedal sticks and will not release due to failure of the brake booster.
When driving the brakes suddenly self activated for periods of a few to several minutes.
While driving 55-60 MPH, the brake pedal goes down without application, and the vehicle lurches forward. Brake application is required after coming to a complete stop to rectify problem.
Driving, start to apply brakes, pedal would stick; would occur at various speeds; have to manually pull pedal up. Now going all the way to floor; brakes don't work & then would kick back up; brakes working. Taken to mechanic & had checked out & told not ABS malfunctioned, but brake booster.
Brakes replaced two times due to excessive wear. Mjs
'check engine light stayed on'.
Transmission failed.
Antilock brake pedal not completely returning, replaced master cylinder/power brake booster.
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