Takata recal my ABS, tcs ,break and exclamation mark is lit up on my dash bored and stays on after the engine starts and doesn't turn off until I turn the car off every time I drive no matter where I go.
2006 Honda Accord electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 42, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I have been in and replaced my airbag sensors 3 times with the recall. After the 2nd or 3rd time I was in for the recall the lining of the roof of my car has completely fallen in and makes it impossible for me to see out the rear view mirror. I have included a picture of the roof of my car as it looks now. I should have video of the transition of events but I think my external hard drive has crashed completely. I have been in to honda of concord in north carolina where they have told me there was nothing they could do as far as repairing it for free and I would have to pay. Why has no one looked at a computer glitch as the culprit for the airbag sensors automatically releasing air? Something has to trigger the sensor to start slowly releasing air, as I was told at honda of south hill, virginia where I originally had my sensors replaced for the recall. [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The passenger windows suddenly failed to operate either from the driver control 0r the passenger control. All fuses and relays checked out. I have goggled the problem and have found that other honda owners of other models have reported the same problem .it was concluded by many that the culprit was the master control switch.. Some jury rigged the system others paid $500 to replace the switch. T.he vehicle was parked with the engine running when the problem was first recognized.
Passenger and both back windows just stopped working. From what I have read in the public forums there are thousands of honda accord owners with the same issue. It is the child safety lock on the driver side door that is the issue.
This is the third door lock actuator on this car that has failed. I know there was a class action against honda for later model year actuators but it did not encompass 2006. The safety problem is that if a person wanted to get out of the locked car in a hurry the electrical lock and unlock button wouldn't unlock the car. The first failure occurred to the left rear door lock actuator replaced under warranty, then in 2009 the right rear failed and now in 2015 the right front failed. I think because of the frequency of failure there is a design problem possibly an extension of the design problems that lead to the later model class action lawsuit for lock actuator failures.
I was traveling at the speed of 35 MPH in low traffic when I hit a small bump and my car lost all power. All the lights on the dash came on and steering became really tight. I drifted to a stop and switched the car off then on. It restarted and the check engine light was on. The light then went off. Two weeks before this the car cut off as I was backing out my driveway. The check engine light came on and I took it to tires plus the technician found the check engine light to be a computer error. This is really dangerous. Its seems as if the car is design to cut off as to alert me something is wrong; however, that would be great if it cut off before it is put in gear. Once I start moving this puts me in great danger of being ran over and killed. The out come of this design could be fatal for me and many more experiencing this. Walsh honda of macon, ga also found the codes to be erroneous.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving at 65 MPH and attempting to power off the headlights, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was able to restart. The failure occurred on several occasions. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 121,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2006 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 30 MPH, white smoke started to emit from the ventilation system. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the vehicle needed an expansion valve and a dryer. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 130,000.
While driving the check engine light and vsa light came on, the car started to slow down stepped on gas pedal no response, no power, and could not go over 20 MPH. Took car to my repair shop, they told me that it is a glitch in the accelerator pedal sensor. Once they cleared the code from the computer the car ran fine, they told me it could happen again, and they would have to replace the sensor.
On saturday 3/8/2014, I was driving my mom to a local nearby lowe's. She was sitting in the passenger front seat with the seat warmer on. She mentioned that the seat was really hot & she then turned the seat warmer off. After we got home & she got out of the car, I noticed that part of my passenger leather seat was melted.
Driving to work, I had the heat on. My son told me it was super cold and asked me to turn the heat up, no heat was coming out it was on full blast cold AC on the passenger side only. So I ended up turning the heat off and we both sat in the cold. This happened for about a week straight and then it got warmer and I haven't had to use it since. I've had to replace the brakes twice since owning it only since 2009. I also had the smoking coming out of the engine (power steering recall) - got it fixed by honda only after my mechanic contacted them for the part - then they were told about the recall that I was never informed of. This weekend 7/28/13 I had to replace my honda battery yet again after getting stranded in another city and the dealership was closed - this is the third time in 4 years. Something is terribly wrong with the electrical system. Taking my car to the shop this afternoon.
Tl* the contact owns a 2006 honda accord. The contact stated that the air conditioner would only blow cold air through the passenger's side vent. The driver's side vents circulated hot air. The failure recurred whenever the air conditioner was activated. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of problem. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.
In february, I had to replace the power steering pump, and driver side power window switch. In june I had to replace the starter motor.
An abnormal noise is occurring in my vehicle transmission when I am in the secondary gear. The vehicle engine has and continues to occasionally stall as if their is a short circuit in the electrical component and transmission of the vehicle and vehicle engine which intermittently shuts down but comes back on before the vehicle engine completely stops. When the vehicle is placed in the parked gear position, the vehicle occasionally rolls until the parking emergency brake is applied. I do not want a failed transmission bearing to cause more damage to my vehicle transmission. I discovered this problem was recalled on august 8, 2011 for 2006 honda accord vehicles. Recall no. 11v395000, under "automatic transmission bearing failure."
Tl* the contact owns a 2006 honda accord. While parked, the ABS and brake warning lights illuminated. The gauges on the instrument panel were not displaying a reading. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostics where the technician advised that the computer gauge control module would have to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.
2006 honda accord software wasnt working . And then I had a recall for my car..
2006 honda accord. Consumer states battery went out *tgw the dealer refused to replace the battery under warranty, because the consumer was not the original owner.
I was in park proceeded to put my car in reverse instead of backing up, the car kept moving in a semi - circle, the vehicle was out of control. Thus, I attempted to bring the car to a halt by stepping on the brakes, however, the brake pedal ceased to work and did not stop the car from being in motion. In closing, the car lost control went about 100ft. Or more till it finally came to a stop at the end of the parking lot. Lastly, the car is at coast honda, however, I was informed there was not anything they could do to repair the car. My concern is if this happens again what if anything can I do to prevent this? As such, this time I was fortunate because, I was in a parking lot and not on a road, where I could have had an accident, or worse. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6)
I own a 06 honda accord I have had to replace the remote key twice the plastic cracks on the front cover making the key almost impossible to use.these keys cost $150 to replace .I have spoken to the dealer & honda about this matter all to no avail !
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 honda accord. The contact stated that she could get the key out of the ignition when the gear shift was in drive as well as reverse. This has occurred approximately 4 times. Honda had not been contacted. The vehicle was not been repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 15,000. Updated 12/30/10. *lj updated 01/04/11.
I was driving along in major traffic on a busy thoroughfare and suddenly the engine lost acceleration, the engine light came on, and the d (rive) light started blinking apparently signifying a major transmission problem. The car immediately lost speed down to 10 miles an hour and I had to navigate out of busy traffic via a left hand turn to a safe resting spot not knowing whether I would make it through the oncoming traffic. I had 3 passengers in the car. The car was ultimately towed to the dealer.
Car cuts off while driving and engine light comes on. This has happened twice. Autozone did a diagnostic test which stated I had a faulty computer module. Honda couldn't find anything other than I needed a new battery. This is my 4th battery. The battery will not stay charged. I don't feel safe driving this car now especially since I found the same problems happening to other drivers online. You all have some of the same defects on other models as my 2006 honda accord exv6. I also was not contacted about the exterior light defects.
Battery has to be replaced each year. Battery won't stay charged and has to be replaced yearly. This is my third battery.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 honda accord. The contact was driving approximately 35 MPH on wet road surface conditions. The pixel in the instrument cluster failed to operate. There was no illumination or prior warnings to the failure. The vehicle was taken to the authorized dealer for diagnostic test. The technician stated the failure was related to the cd player. The vehicle has not been repaired for the malfunction. The contact had concern of the safety risk involved. The failure mileage was 51,000. The current mileage was 51,800. The VIN was unavailable.
Roughly a month ago from today ie december 2008; the horn on my car sounded different but then was fine, time had passed and it got worse and crackled. I took the car into the local dealer for repair this morning and had asked if this could be considered under warranty eventhough I am 3,000 miles over the std warranty with the 5% extension from honda, the car is 3 days shy of 3 years old, they said no. The problem was the right horn broke, the left worked fine. It was about $120 for diag, parts, and labor which I had to do but am asking honda to consider this to be covered since a 3 year old car should not have something basic break so soon, clearly it was a defective part. This is a safety concern especially with a 4 month baby I transport daily in this car.
I have been having this on going unknown issue with my instrument panel indicators on my car. On this panel, my malfunction indicator lamp light comes on some times after refueling but not a cap problem and stays on for a few days. This time the light came on wile driving but was not related to a refuel. On page 237 in the 2006, owner's manual it explains that the light has to do with one of the engine's emission control systems may have a problem. I have had this light come on a few times before as well as now and then the light goes out on its own a few days later. I have taken photos of my instrument panel with the light on. The photo also shows my current miles at the time when the light is on. I have given the photos to my service adviser #176 at martin main line honda dealership # 207980 in ardmore pa 19003-2385. My service adviser as well as my tech cannot fine the problem or know exactly why the light comes on. My service adviser has explained to me that the light comes on when your car emission system is emitting fumes that it should not be doing, in return breaking a federal emission law. I have driven many miles some times as may as about 200 miles with this light on before. I just keep reporting this problem to my service adviser every time the light comes on. I have put 0 failures below because I do not know if this part fail or not. I also been having other lights come on my instrument panel as well aside from this only light. Honda needs to buy back this model car if they will not fix the major problems wrong with it.
The anti-lock brake system (ABS) indicator, vsa activation indicator, vehicle stability assist (vsa) system indicator, parking brake and brake system indicator, malfunction indicator lamp instrument panel lights comes on for no reason. For the lights to go out I must turn the car off and then back on for the lights to go out. This has happened like three or 4 times before with my car. Same problem all times. Martin main line honda dealership # 207980 in ardmore pa 19003-2385 cannot find / pull any relevant codes from the computer in the car. The dealership cannot find anything physically wrong with my car from the lights or why they cam and keep coming on. I did show the dealership photos I took of the instrument panel with the lights on. The dealership has searched the honda service tech website for any information on this problem and found nothing from honda. The regional honda service rep was asked about this on going problem and he said that he could not do anymore then what the dealership can do on there own. I need honda to fix this major problem. Thanks
The ignition key is stuck at position 1 of 3 and cannot be returned to 0. I am unable to get the key out in any gear position and others have tried as well and are unable to retrieve the key.
Tl*the contact owns a 2006 honda accord ex. While driving, the alarm and the horn automatically activated for an extended period of time. As a result, other drivers send rude signals to her and she feels that this is very dangerous. The contact notified the honda dealer in her area and a diagnostic test was performed. The dealer was unable to find the cause of failure. She also notified honda's regional office who stated that her vehicle is out of warranty and nothing can be done. Honda advised her to go to the passenger side of the vehicle and use the key in order to stop the failure. The engine size was unknown. The current mileage is 25,564 and failure mileage was 22,000.
Vehicle was bought 02/2006. To date the odometer is reading more than 30,546 miles. My daily commute to my job round trip. Is approx 76 miles daily. My previous car was a toyota hylander. It was bought in august 2002. When I traded that car in to coggins honda it has a total of 57,816 miles and it ran a round trip and a half from new york to florida and back. It was bought in florida and was transported to new york via the auto train within the next year this honda car will have doubled its mileage. The mats in the front driver side appears that someone else was in use of this car. It is highly impossible that I will be keeping this car much longer. I need an explanation for the dealer why this odometer seem as if it set on springs like the energizer bunny, it just keeps running on and on with no intent on regulation. Thanks, lorna ingram
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