Tl* the contact owns a 2007 honda accord. The contact stated that the vehicle started to jerk while driving 25 MPH and the steering wheel turned toward the right abnormally. As a result, the ignition key broke in half and the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure and the current mileages were 100,000.
2007 Honda Accord electrical complaints
Page 3 of 3: complaints 41 to 60 of 60, newest first, as owners wrote them.
The regulators of two rear windows made loud noise during window open operation on sept. 22, 2011. One of the window was not able to close all the way up after it was open. These two windows only are used less than a dozen times. It was raining that day. The windshield was smoggy while I was driving because the window was not able to close. The defrost was not able to clear the windshield. This defect can potentially resulted in fatal accident.
Tl*the contact owns a 2007 honda accord coupe ex. The contact stated that on an intermittent basis that the horn would not function properly and it almost caused a crash since the horn malfunctioned intermittently. The vehicle had not been inspected by a dealer nor had it been repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 98,900. The VIN was unavailable.
My accord has a history of "buzzing" when I turn the ignition key. The noise is coming from the lower left area of the dash. I've had it in the dealer repair shop more than once, but the problem still exists.
Read this through and accept it as accurate. I am sane, intelligent, a former cpa. The problem is unusual, but I was there; you weren't. 2007 honda accord. When stopped for a traffic signal, car began to vibrate and shake violently to a booming base noise. The level of sound: louder than standing by the speakers at a rock concert. The volume hurt my ears; it was easily loud enough to cause hearing damage for a prolonged exposure. I've worked in a machine shop, and I know loud. (I assumed someone with a mega stereo and sub-woofer pulled up alongside me. My radio was off, and I have a stock system, not capable of this magnitude of sound.) when I turned at the light, my vehicle was the only one there, and I realized the sound was coming from my car. The sound was definitively from speakers and an amplified sound, not a normal engine or exhaust sound. I revved the engine, and the sound did not change. The sound decreased slightly as I drove, and then resumed its former level. I pulled into a gas station, shut the engine off, and looked under the hood and body. I saw nothing. On the way home, I stopped by a honda dealer, and they said they had never heard of such a thing. The service advisor mentioned it might have been the anc, or electronic noise cancellation, which is used to produce opposite sound waves to cancel out engine and road noise, creating a quiet cab environment. I asked if the system had the power to shake the car, and she responded yes. I was stopped at a light, so the only danger was to my hearing. If this happens to someone in traffic, the results could be dangerous. The onslaught of noise and shaking was jarring. This would appear to be an electronic glitch, and therefore very hard to diagnose. I am putting this on record so that anyone else experiencing it has supporting incidents.
According to the watertown honda dealer(watertown ct), running my air conditioner caused the short circuiting of my on board computer. My onboard computer was filled with water and fried, resulting in loss of electric for the vehicle(which I am told would include ABS brake system, air bags, power steering, engine control, lights and all other safety features). The honda dealer that has my vehicle determined that the air conditioning condenser dripped onto the computer which caused it to malfunction. There are no modifications or damage to my vehicle, it has never been in an accident or flooded. It has been maintained and driven under normal driving conditions only. The vehicle was purchased new 3 years ago. I had driven my car from nh to ct for fathers day. I parked the car, then moved it from one parking space to another. Later after lunch, my car would not start. It turned over and over, but would not start. The green key light was blinking, the orange engine light was on, and the red oil light was on. There was static coming from the speakers even though the radio was off, and it sounded like every relay and switch under the hood was cycling on and off. It had been completely dry on the drive down, but had a few sprinkles while the car was parked. I had the car towed to a honda dealership in ct(honda of watertown) I further explained that I have never had any accidents modifications to the vehicle. I had hit a pile of snow coming into my driveway (the first winter I owned the vehicle) that cracked the cowl, but had grappone honda (concord nh)service inspect it during my next oil change to determine it was only superficial damage. I explained that I have only driven it under normal conditions, ie I have driven in the rain and through regular puddles, but the car has never been flooded or through any deep puddles ever. Luckily I was parked when this happened, or I may not be here to file the complaint at all.
Car alarm on honda accord se 2007,bought from fuller honda, san diego did not activate, never activate while the car was burglarized/broken in to while car alarm was armed at our designated parking lot outside our apartment . I emailed fuller honda to report the incident and inquire why it did not activate at all, even ask them if all the cars they sell do the same. I never got any reply from the company about my email/ car problem. I did claim from aaa what was stolen as a result of this equipment failure. Claim #[xxx] .I sent them copies of pictures I took before I even called san diego police to investigate on the theft and why the alarm never activated while its armed. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
2007 honda accord there is a problem with the ignition lock with the automatic transmission vehicles. The key will get stuck in the ignition at random times. I came to the conclusion where the vehicle will not register its in park. So you can turn the engine off however the key will be stuck in the on position where the radio would still be playing but will not let you turn the key back to remove it out the ignition. You have to put the car in gear then back in park multiple times before it will let you turn the vehicle completely off where you can remove the key.
I took the battery out of an 2007 honda accord v-6 to get access to the headlight bulb behind the battery. I put the battery back into the car and installed the positive terminal then touched the negative terminal to the negative post on the battery and the car engine started without the key being turned on. If I would have had my hands in the wrong area in the engine compartment I would not be typing this e-mail. No one was in the car with the key turned on, the car started by itself and would not shut off when I turned the key to on or off, I had to get into the car and put it into gear and then back to park to get the key to shut the engine off.
While parking my car in my garage, I had put it in park and took my foot of the brake pedal, my 2007 honda accord sedan lunged forward hitting my drywall, solar water heater, washer and dryer then it jumped back and stopped. I was so stunned as I didn't know what was happening here. Instantly the car decided to go in reverse at an accelerated rate down the hill of my driveway hitting the concrete side of my neighbor's garage, their car and bounced forward up the hill to hit my house again and stopped at the crest of the hill. The car is totaled. State farm insurance hired an investigator sea that decided that there are no deficiencies yet they failed to look at the transmission, electronic control module, powertrain only reviewed the brakes, tires, throttle. Can you help me. After reviewing an article of the toyotas and how they and other manufacturers have gone to a new electronic throttle control module which has resulted in the same type of problem, I accelerated as my foot was on the brake the whole time and the shift gear was in park. This needs to be investigated further . Possible new recall. There are several other incidents listed on the honda malfunctions complaint page under 2007 honda accords with the same type of problems, cars being totaled and what recourse do we have as consumers? Obviously state farm isn't going to pursue it with honda just charge to me as an accident and probably drop me and raise my rates sky high. I need help on how to pursue this further. $10,000 damage to my house, car totaled @ $18,000+, and $19,000+ damage to my neighbor's house. Luckily no children were out and no deaths occurred as a result of this. The only air bag that deployed were the side curtains not the driver's side either.
My 2007 honda accord with 23,800 miles on it stalls and will not restart. This occurs after it has been driven lightly (a few local miles) in moderate temperature conditions. The ignition doesn't work; the battery loses its charge. The occurrences are unpredictable and leave me stranded wherever the incident occurs. Yesterday I was stranded one-hour from my home; called aaa for assistance. Aaa observed the battery needed recharging which solved the problem. However when taken to the dealer, the honda dealer claimed there was nothing wrong with the battery. This appears to be an electrical or fuel pump problem and appears to relate directly to the federal safety agency honda recalls for stalling and/or sudden stopping by recalled 2005-2006 models. The problem has not been corrected in my 2007 model. What iis my recourse? I haven't paid the car off yet and consider it to be a lemon.
2007 honda accord. Headlights flicker periodically. Suspect taillights are doing the same. Reported to dealership. They tested battery and charging system and could not find a problem. Took to my mechanic. Same result. Replaced bulbs in lights. Problem remains. Had electronics shop check all data system but there are no listings. Online bulletin board suggests this is a pervasive issue with honda vehicles but honda has not addressed it. I don't know if this is an electrical problem or just faulty vehicles but the dimming of lights at night time when following another driver could be mistaken as me trying to get their attention. In the seattle, wa area that could be a dangerous thing.... Please help!!
In approximately august 2008, the horn on my 2007 honda accord stopped working. It had been working fine before, but would not work when I tried to warn another driver who was veering into my lane. I took it to the dealership and confirmed with the customer service rep that it wasn't working. Then, when I picked it up that evening, he said that it had started working and he couldn't replicate the problem. He said intermittent problems are hard to diagnose and to come back when it stops working again. Since then the problem has been on and off and in heavy traffic I have narrowly avoided 3 accidents without being able to use my horn.
The dash and headlights flicker whenever the air conditioning compressor cycles, even at highway speed. I brought it to the dealer, and they said that all honda's do it. I researched the problem, and it's evident that the issue is widespread. My car is a 2007 accord.
Multiple electrical difficulties vehicle has been at the dealership on 2 separate occasions due to sporadic working of the power door locks and keyless entry system. They still have not found the issue. It is worse when it is humid and/or rains. During the winter months of 2007/2008; the stereo's lcd went warped and the whole stereo had to be replaced. On memorial day 2008; the drivers side seat caught fire while I was sitting in it parked waiting on my children to come out of a theme park. My husband burned his hand trying to put out the fire; and was out of work for about 2-weeks due to the burn. The dealership and honda refused to take responsibility for this fire; which started inside the seat due to the electronic seats and/or heated leather seats, as determined by the insurance company appraiser. The seat had to be replaced, the electronic seat components, heated leather seat components, part of the center console, and the carpeting and floor mats. We got the car back on july 3. On monday, july 7; my husband took the car to have it inspected (at the dealership); since the state inspection was past due. They rejected the inspection stating that the electronic system is not recognizing the seat belts. They later changed their tune when I called them and are now trying to say it wasn't that it was the airbag wasn't hooked up; and they could fix it. I know they are lying, and they are trying to cover their tracks as this I am sure is just another electrical issue in my car. I am at my wits end on what to do with this car. I can't afford to trade it in, I have spent over $1000 on rental cars waiting for it to be repaired, and now this. Also, the power door locks still do not work.
When it gets cold (below 45) the horn on my 2007 honda accord will not sound. It has been into the honda service shop they say nothing is wrong with it.
It's a major design flaw of honda to deviate from the standard that the dash lights do not illuminate unless the headlights are on. I'm sure most other drivers are accustomed to this standard. Compound that with other vehicle models (of which we have two) that will turn on headlights automatically, and you have serious potential to drive at night without nothing but the automatic running lights on. These running lights produce enough reflective light, along with the dash lights, to lead the driver to believe they have the headlights on.
I have seen this problem on both honda and acura models. The dash board is illuminated and the day time running light are on but the headlights are not. The problem is the driver believes the lights are on as the dash board is on and they have some forward vision. I believe the problem is the owners forget to manually turn on the headlights. It appears as if the headlights are on when in fact they are not. The main problems is the tail lamps are not on. Twice in the recent past on a dark curved section of the highway I have almost changed lanes into a black honda accord and on a different occasion a black acura tsx due to the same issue. From behind in the dark they are basically invisible. Both times I have tried to notify the driver and both times I was unsuccessful. I could see their instrument panel illuminated and could not get them to understand their headlight were not on since from their perspective everything was on. Either the headlights should turn on automatically or the instrument panel should not be illuminated if the headlight are off. The current operation of these vehicles is unsafe.
I am an otr cdl-licensed driver, and, on more than a few occasions over the past 6 months, I have observed several models of nissan and honda vehicles cruising at dusk with their dash lights on, but with no exterior marker, parking, tail, or headlights burning. They are virtually invisible, especially when mixed in with other normally-illuminated vehicles. When alerted as they pass by horn and flashing lights, the driver's usual reaction is to slam on the brakes, and then turn on the headlights. If the headlight switch is configured to actuate the dash lights separately from the exterior lights, that is a definite safety problem. The problem also may be with the allowable threshold sensitivity of the twilight sensor.
Dt*: the contact stated while driving 30 MPH on normal road conditions, there was a loud popping sound from the front left side of the windshield. The sound also occurred when driving on rough roads. The sales/service dealer was notified and the vehicle was inspected. When the contact drove the vehicle again, the problem continued, so the vehicle was returned to the sales/service dealer. The sales/service dealer refused to provide a refund, replace the vehicle or to replace the seal to the windshield. The manufacturer was notified. *nm the consumer found a service bulletin regarding improperly sealed windshields (molding problems) that cause popping/rattling noise. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but they claimed they could not hear the noise. *nm the fuse box under the hood near the dashboard and in the interior of the car were tightened because they were loose. This affected the daytime running lights. The left front strut and the firewall were too close and were rubbing together. The gaskets were shrinking around the windshield which were causing the windshield vibrating problems. The windshield sprayer was clogged. The exhaust heat shields were loose. The front door window channels were lubricated and finally replaced because of the excessive rattling noise. The door jambs were irregular which added to the window rattling problem. Updated 01/10/08 .
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