Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that the piston rings failed. The vehicle was taken to a dealer. The technician diagnosed that the piston rings needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 77,000. ..updated 02/24/15*bf updated 9/15/2017
2010 Honda Accord engine complaints
Page 5 of 5: complaints 101 to 128 of 128, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Accelerating from a stop sign and check engine light came on, vehicle began to idle rough and shudder. Limped to an auto parts store and diagnosis was cylinder #2 misfire. I was returning home from vacation and contacted dealership service dept where car was purchased from. Was informed that honda issued a tsb for fouled plugs. Drove 290 miles home as all dealerships were closed.
Today I went to start my car and noticed that my mileage changed from 45,000 to 700,000.
Noticed A/C not working when weather warmed up on return from a visit. Honda tech cited leaking evaporator core.
Brought a car from millennium honda in hempstead. Less then 4 months need a new transmission service manager refuse to give me a loaner car when I went to get it fixed. Still having problems with my car. Sold me a lemon. Making a sound like the engine is going to fall out.
My 2010 honda accord v6 ex-l engine is misfiring and burning excessive oil. Current mileage is 35,340. The add oil lamp does not light up, to at least let me know that oil need to be added.
When starting the car at a cold start, you hear a loud grinding noise sounds for 2 or 5 seconds. There is a tsb 09-010 regarding a vtc actuator that drains of oil and is not properly lubed when starting the engine cold, causing the grinding noise until oil reaches the part again. Grinding noises in an engine are bad, and could lead to catastrophic engine failure should the abrasive metallic parts (due to grinding when there is no oil in the actuator) becoming lodged. This engine failure could happen at any time, possibly in a highway lane. While my car engine has not yet seized, there are online reports of this happening. Currently, honda will only fix this issue under warranty. They also give the car owner a really hard time proving the issue, requiring the car be left at a dealership overnight to replicate the problem. A loaner vehicle is at your expense. If the car is not under warranty, this expensive repair bill is at your expense. If your car is under warranty and they are not able to replicate the noise, both the loaner car and diagnostic fee are at your expense. This greatly reduces the number of people willing and able to have this important safety issue fixed. Running engine components without oil should be a recall. It is clearly a safety issue that can cause other problems with your engine. If the engine stalls unexpectedly, it could lead to death.
Driving approximately-15 MPH on a local round-about and the engine appeared to stop running. I coasted to an intersection and stopped along the road. Engine turned over initially then only buzzing sound. Shifter locked in park after stopping. Door locks and windows were functional as well as the fan motor. Limited lights on the panel, tire pressure system, and red passenger seat icons were lighted. I would consider this a dangerous occurrence. Fortunately I was not in a bad location for stopping.
I was driving about 40-60 MPH when the engine mildly jerked and the speed elevated slightly without acceleration.
While driving on the highway I was going about 60 MPH and the car jerks mildly and the speed increases about 3 MPH faster without more acceleration.
Engine light came on; car chugged; called aaa and had it towed for the third time to honda . A switch, oil pressure rocker arm pressure switch (rear) was replaced. This is the third time that a part failure has caused oil pressure/engine problems and left me stranded out of town.
Engine light came on while driving on the interstate. Car chugged and threatened to cut off. I miraculously got it into the honda dealership in orlando. Had to leave it,get rental to get home and go back for it 4 days later. Defective front spool valve assembly was found to be binding/sticking causing engine to misfire.
While driving, the car chugged and engine light came on. Engine cut off. Had car towed to honda dealership .
There is a recall for 2010 honda accords re engine stalling while driving. Before I found out about the recall, I experienced my vehicle stalling twice on two seperate occasions and I immediately took it to honda dealership, and they said they could not duplicate the problem so there was nothing they could do. Now that I am aware of the recall, I called honda and they said my VIN doesnt apply. Which puzzles me when I experienced the same issues.
When I took my automobile in at recommended service interval the oil level did not register on the dipstick.the mechanic said the rear spark plugs were fouled by the oil indicating the car was burning oil at a high rate.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving 55 MPH, the check engine and the vsa warning lights illuminated. The contact shut the vehicle off and when restarted, both of the warning lights were still illuminated. The vehicle later stalled while the contact was driving 15 MPH. The vehicle was towed to a local dealer, who determined that the engine overheated and caused other engine components to become melted. The dealer stated that the entire engine was defective, which needed to be replaced. The failure mileage was 19,000.
The check engine light comes on and the car makes noise and driving is not smooth. When I continued to drive it to the dealer the vsa, and the wrench came on. They did a diagnostic and said it was a spark plug miss firing. I drove my car to georgia and the same thing happened while I was on the road and had to have it fixed there. Now it is doing the same thing one month later. I will be taking it to the dealer to have it checked. I found on the internet that their is a class action suit for the same thing. It is resolved when the put a new motor in the car. My car does not leak oil but reads that the oil is low. The oil light does not come on when this happens. I would like to have the car fixed but not continually at my expense.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving 70 MPH, the check engine warning light illuminated and the vehicle independently decelerated to 35 MPH. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection where they stated that they could not diagnose the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 34,338.
Purchased a 2010 honda in january 2010. We experienced excessive oil usage and yellow warning light on intermittently. We requested an oil change at 4,500 miles and were told not to change the first oil until the oil life showed 15%. While traveling, at approximately 7,500 miles, the vehicle oil life indicator showed about 40% use although the vehicle had no oil showing on the dipstick. The exhaust pipes were blackened. Oil was added and we were told there could be engine damage. We returned to the honda dealer who we purchased the vehicle from who advised us if the oil usage was less than a quart every 1,000 miles oil use was not excessive. We were told the car was fine and the tail pipes were not a problem. We continue to have to add oil between oil changes.
Usually I will start my car and start rolling out of a parking lot. Always before I can get out of the parking lot and get up to speed (usually under 20mph and 1500-2000rpm), I get a short (1-2 second) loud and strong vibration that I can feel from the gas pedal. *gas
Excessive oil consumption; car makes clattering engine noise (oil starvation) at around 4200 miles between oil changes; been on oil consumption test at dealer and told I am still within specs of burning 1 quart oil per 1000 miles being normal; have never owned a vehicle that loses oil between changes; dealer recommended I pull over on side of road when I hear clattering noise to top off oil; been getting oil changes every two months because of clattering noise being heard in engine; was given a software update to fix this in late august but it has only gotten worse-- went from burning 1/4 quart per 1000 to 1/3 quart per 1000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving any speed, rocks would enter the grill and damage various components of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and the contact was informed that the condenser for the air conditioner was fractured. The vehicle was repaired. In addition, the contact stated that the vehicle hesitated to accelerate from stops. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer and they stated that the torque converter and engine mounts failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified and covered all repair costs, but informed that the failure remained and there were no other remedies. The failure mileage was approximately 13,000. Updated 03/14/12*lj updated 06/18/12
Engine rpms go up when stopped or barely moving if steering wheel is moved. Has gotten worse and it now has 5200 miles. No luck with dealership. Say it normal for the rpms to go up if you move steering wheel. Supposed to call factory and call me no phone call yet.
In front of the 2010 accord there are two big holes cut out for a sporty look. Everyday driving to and from work on the highway something flew up from off the road and went into one of the open areas and sliced my air condenser and all of my freon leaked out and it wouldn't be patched entire piece had to be replaced so my complaint is why would an area like that be left wide open to a main part of the A/C and not a piece of mesh there to protect that. It was not covered on my 100,000 mile warranty so therefore the repair had to come out of my pocket on a 6 month old car. I should not be afraid to drive my car but honestly I am due to the fact that I just had this fixed and it very well could happen again no warning all because this are is exposed and it is not covered under my warranty!!!!
Tl*the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that while at an intersection and trying to accelerate the vehicle suddenly stalled. The failure occurred on a intermittent basis. None of the warning lights illuminated after the failure occurred. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who was unable to duplicate or diagnose the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 12,000. Updated 05/03/2011*lj updated 1/5/12
I leased a 2010 honda accord. Two days later as I was driving down the highway, the engine suddenly shut down along with all the dashboard instruments. Everything went black inside. A truck traveling behind me nearly missed hitting me and I avoided a very serious accident. The dealership has had the car for one week and is saying the computer they are hooking the car up to is not coming up with any problems and there is nothing wrong with the car. I am being put in a dangerous situation by driving a car that has not been fixed. There is obviously something very wrong.
My 2010 honda accord is loud when starting, sounds like a race car. It also does not stop on a dime and in fact speeds up as I apply the brakes. Thirdly, the revs are too high and lastly, the gear shifts on acceleration is not smooth at all and sounds like the car is pushing too hard to change gears! These problems happen all the time. I took to dealer month ago saw nothing. Only had car two months!!
I bought a new 2010 honda accord at marin honda in larkspur, california on sunday 1/31/2010. But I did not pick up the car until monday 2/1/2010 because the car was "not prepared" on sunday evening. I drove the car home from the dealer in the afternoon on 2/1/2010 and I began to notice a rattling noise coming from the hood on driver side. I brought the car back to the dealer on tuesday morning where a mechanic suggested that the noise maybe coming from the defective housing unit of the windshield wiper. The mechanic ordered the new part but it will not be available until next week. The noise has been persistent and getting stronger/louder when I applied the brake and when the car is idling at intersection. The steering wheel also appeared to shake whenever this loud rattling noise came out. I am afraid that this problem maybe more that just a defective housing part of the windshield wiper, hence I am reporting this to assure that electrical problem or brakes problem are not the issue for honda (in lieu of what is going on with toyota cars at the present time). Please let me know if you had similar complaints for the new model honda accord. I had been a loyal customer of honda but this incidence is making me very concerned about their quality assurance service before releasing new cars into the market. I thank you for the important work that you do to keep consumers like me safe on the road.
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