2008 Hyundai Sonata: engine overheating

Filed Apr 25, 2025 · Engine, Transmission · VA

Bought in 2023 @ 98k miles. Have had trouble with 1.it would only start in drive, then that seems to have self corrected. 2. In drive, car would not accelerate properly, and would slow as though I was braking, but no foot on brake. Had rear brake sensor replaced, seemed better for a while. 3. Developed oil leak at 120 miles which valvoline characterized as "not serious...just keep checking it and topping it off." So, have been doing that. Today after oil change, it began running rough, lots of vibration, then the shifting problem, sluggishness, and new..smoke from under hood on driver's side. No check engine lights at all. Nothing registered as hot or overheating. Turned off car, checked oil and trans fluid, both in proper range for warm engine. Let car sit and cool for an hour. Decided I had parked too close to the propane tanks for a smoking car, so I decided to start car just to back it into a space across the lot. Car had no issues- No smoke, no jerking or vibration, no sluggishness, no phantom braking. This car has done this same thing about once every 6 months since I've had it. Changed a tire sensor, that seemed to fix it once. Stopped using cruise control altogether, that seemed to help once. My brother is an ASE certified high school auto mechanics teacher who ran his own shop for 20 years and worked on trucks for VDOT for another 7 years and he cannot diagnose it. I know it has something to do with not being in the correct gear, but it's not reliable, and I have a hard time believing it's just my vehicle.

Filed Mar 18, 2020 · Engine · 236,000 miles · SC

Tl* the contact owns a 2008 hyundai sonata. The contact stated while driving at 55 MPH, the vehicle overheated with the low oil level warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. Neither a dealer nor the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 236,000.

Filed Apr 25, 2016 · Electrical, Engine · 108,000 miles · GA

While driving the seat belt light came on. About a minute later the radio shut off. Next most of the dash lights came on , the engine would not make power/accelerate, and the braking seemed weak/jerky. Pulled into a parking lot as soon as I could. Now all dash lights were on/blinking and the radio, sunroof, windows etc would not work. Thinking it was an electrical issue I left it running to investigate. Next thing I know the car is overheating even though the gauge isn't showing it. Steam everywhere and the overflow popped the cap off. Shut the car off. Once the car cooled I was able to see what happened. Oil has been dripping on to the alternator from a leak in the valve cover gasket. This killed the alternator which in turn caused the control/braking/acceleration issues one it was on battery only. I'm assuming the fan was not cooling either which resulted in the overheating.

Filed Apr 28, 2014 · Engine · 123,000 miles · FL · fire

Driving approximately 50 MPH when I heard pop. Smoke came from under hood. Pulled over. Popped hood. Smoke coming from engine. Checked dipstick and no oil. Never had oil leak. No oil light ever came on. No check engine light. No overheat or hot engine light. Just a small fire underneath the engine on ground. Bought oil that just leaked immediately after putting in. No warning. No signals. No alerts. Blown engine. They want $5300 for a used engine.

Filed Jan 1, 2012 · Brakes · 15,968 miles · PA

Purchased demonstrator car with approximately 2,500 miles for normal use. Rear disk brake noise at 15,976 miles required both rear brake pads and rotors to be replaced under warranty. Same problem happened again at 33,356 miles, again requiring replacement of pads and turning of rotors (this time it was not covered - considered normal wear items). Once again, at approximately 52,000 miles, loud grinding from the left rear brake revealed that both inner and outer pads had been totally scrubbed off with light metal to metal contact, while the right rear pads still had greater than 50% of original pad thickness. The caliper slides operated smoothly and were well lubricated and sealed, and the pad slides were dirty with brake dust, but not corroded or blocked with dirt. The pads appeared to have been exposed to high heat. I replaced the pads to finish my trip and upon return it was apparent that the new pads had been dragging as evidenced by a strong smell and glazed appearance. It does not seem normal for this condition to happen - there was no grinding or abnormal noise observed during the most recent event, until pulling into our destination, when it was very loud. Appears that the caliper or caliper piston is sticking to keep the pads in contact with the disk, thus overheating and challenging the brake pad life. This seems to be only on the left (driver's side) caliper. Hyundai discussion forums have indicated this is a common problem that hyundai is not formally addressing. I will take the car to the dealer this week, but wanted to register with the federal safety agency since it is a brake issue with safety implications.

Filed Feb 11, 2011 · Brakes, Wheels · 23,226 miles · PA

Took car to dealer for annual state vehicle inspection and to have "chirping" noise from brakes checked. Rear brake pads were at 3/32"; min allowed is 2/32". Front pads ok at +7/32". Replaced rear pads, machined rotors. Mileage was 23,226; car purchased feb2008 and was regularly serviced at dealer. Dealer sa advised that pad wear was normal and that 'on this model the rear brakes always wear faster'. When this was disputed the sa said that corrosion on caliper did not allow pads to withdraw and that constant contact wore out the pads. When asked about warranty coverage sa said that brakes are only covered for 12 months. Subsequently noted that on side of car with sticking caliper that the paint on both steel wheels has peeled and wheels have rusted. Tires have been rotated, front-to-back, several times since new. Possible that excessive heat from dragging pads overheated wheels and damaged paint. Also possible that there was excessive heat to wheel bearings. Will have this checked at next service, or sooner. This premature rear pad wear is not normal for hyundai. Also, presently driving a 2001 elantra that went 60k+ before needing brakes. Never owned any car that had rear brakes wear before front. The number of complaints registered indicates that this is a design/material issue that needs correcting before someone is hurt.