Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. While driving approximately 40 MPH, the transmission failed. The contact stated that the vehicle jerked and began to switch gears involuntarily. The contact stopped the vehicle and opened the hood latch. Aaa was contacted and towed the vehicle to the contact's residence. Aaa diagnosed that the motor mount may have fractured within the vehicle. Jim ellis mazda atlanta (5855 peachtree blvd, atlanta, georgia 30341, (888) 814-7086) was made aware of the failure and requested that the vehicle be brought in for diagnostic testing. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the recall. The failure mileage was approximately 280,000.
2010 Mazda MAZDA3 engine complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 31 of 31, newest first, as owners wrote them.
On two separate occasion that were several months apart from one another, my vehicle has shut off while I have been driving. On both occasions I did not touch the key in the ignition in any way. There were no bumps or drastic changes in the driving conditions. The steering on the vehicle locked up and I had to hurry to get it start again. Both incidents I was actively driving on city streets. I was on a 45 MPH road the first time and a 35 MPH road the second time. I have no idea what caused the issue but it has happened twice for no apparent reason at all. The last time that it occurred, I was just completing a turn.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. At times, while driving various speeds, the check engine warning indicator illuminated on the instrument cluster and the vehicle seized and had to be restarted. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. There was an unknown recall associated with the vehicle. The failure mileage was 106,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. While driving 65 MPH, the vehicle jerked forward and an unknown warning indicator illuminated. As a result, the driver sustained whiplash that required medical attention. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
My car has had rattling noise coming from the front passenger side of the hood for a few months now and took it to a mechanic and they said it is common for this model to have a motor mount issue.. But not to fix it yet because it is just now starting and it will be fine for a 6 months or so?!?!? Seriously ...
Vehicle comes to a complete stop while running on highway,inmovilizing all systems. Taken to shop scanned for trouble ,code u0100 was detected.recall for wiring was checked wiring is ok. Replaced burn out parts taken to test same problem arise.
During the summer there was a toxic smell that was making myself and others who rode in the vehicle ill. Dealership said the smell was probably the purge valve which was normal and that based on the smell my vehicle seemed to be purging more than others but there was nothing that could be done. Summer of 2014 the smell became extremely unbearable while in the vehicle I was suffering severe neurological symptoms, and burning sensations in my eyes and airways. People could smell the toxins just by opening the door. I noticed the heat damage to the dashboard and came across another mazda owner who became ill because of the off-gassing from the plastic inside the vehicle so I ran the same test before trading in the vehicle. There is a toxic level of chemicals including formaldehyde. My apologies to the owner that this vehicle was resold to by the dealership, I hope you don't become as sick as I did.
Drove 80 miles to destination on freeway using cruise control. Car accelerated above cruise setting on downhill - did not engine brake to hold speed. When pulling into destination hotel parking spot and with right foot on brake, engine revved dramatically. Applied both feet to break. Automatic transmission. Changed gears to n, r & p, but engine continued to rev. Turned engine off. Smoke generated from engine entered cabin. Did not use car until next day. Returning home next day used cruise control and exited freeway for break. Slowing down for stop light with car ahead and foot on brake when engine revved again as before. Shifted car into neutral and turned off car then back on. Drove car to dealer on way home without another incident. This dealer is where we purchased the care and all work except tires/alignment and battery occurred. They examined and inspected the car and kept it for the next 10 days logging 200 miles without a recurrence of the unintended acceleration.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. While refueling the vehicle, the low oil pressure warning light illuminated and smoke emitted from the exhaust pipe. The vehicle was towed to a dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 59,537.
Clutch gave out at 33,000 miles. That is absurd. Mazda claims its under their "wear and tear" but this is not a new problem for a lot of people. Premature clutch failure should have been a recall on mazda 3's back in 2011.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda, mazda3. The contact stated that while having the vehicle serviced, the technician advised that the motor mount was cracked and needed to be replaced. Also, the contact mentioned that the front driver's side tire went flat with the illumination of the tire sensor warning light. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic where it was diagnosed that the tire sensors were corroded and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 76,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 mazda3 . The contact stated while attempting to start the vehicle it failed to start with the illumination of all of the panel lights. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The dealer stated the harness needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 46,000.
Have had a situation occur about a dozen times since I purchased new in july 2010 with 93 miles - now at ~35500 miles. When coming to a stop on a cold engine that has only been running about 2-3 minutes, clutch pushed in to shift out of gear and brakes applied engine will rev to ~2500 RPM and it will stay there for about 3-4 seconds. First few times it happened I figured I hit the gas as well as the brake, after that I began to check my foot position on occurrence and my foot was nowhere near the accelerator. This has not caused any problems with a car accelerating on its own as it typically occurs as I am pushing the clutch in to come to a stop. Only happens when the engine is still cold (generally the first stop of the day) and is very random when it occurs. Have not brought to attention of dealership as there are no common factors to be able to reproduce the problem. Upon notice of other complaints for this issue I wanted to add my own experience.
I am the original owner of this vehicle, purchased brand new. In january 2012 the heater when turning on made a loud clicking sound for approx. 20 to 30 seconds, each time. Upon research on the internet, local mechanics, I found out the heater blend door actuator is the problem. I was going to replace it, but upon further investigation I found that this heater assembly is not only used by mazda, nissan, toyota, chevy, ford, and lexus. This heater is known to have this design error. I then decided to have the mazda dealer change it for $130.00. The dealer then told me the whole assembly needed changing for $250.00 plus labor. This assembly was known for this. Also the dealer had unplugged the heater blend door actuator because this unit is known to start a fire in the vehicle. This made me extremely nervous. I consider this to be an unsafe vehicle. *tr
Heat is always hot. There is no temperature contol on the heater.
I have had my 2010 mazda 3s since june of 2010 when I bought it new. I drive to and from work every day. I have 26,000 miles on it, 75% of which are highway miles. I was driving to work last week, and noticed something with the car felt off. Every day of the week it got worse and worse, so I finally brought it to my mechanic who told me, as I suspected, that the clutch was slipping and nearing the end of its life. I have yet to replace the brake pads on this car, and to get told that the clutch is gone before I even replace normal maintenance items is just flat out unacceptable. I have had two previous cars with manual transmissions, and never replaced a clutch, even when they had close to 100,000 miles on them. My mechanic suggested before I do anything, to look on forums and see if anyone else has been having similar problems with premature clutch wear. I have spent my whole weekend on mazda and edmunds forums reading about countless people with my model year, 2010, who have had clutches go before 35,000 miles. This is not a one-off case, and it is certainly not a "wear and tear" issue as the dealership says it is. That's their blanket cover-their-[xxx]statement because they know they put out a poor product and don't want to deal with the costs incurred with replacing them. I have no faith anymore in my local dealership, or mazda as a brand at this point. With the significant number of similar issues to mine, the fact that they are still unwilling to admit that they chose an inferior supplier to cut costs for one of the most crucial parts of the car, that isn't covered under warranty, is just piss poor business practice. I don't know what writing this will do, if anything, but I decided that I am done being [xxx] around by the dealer and hopefully this is followed by other mazda owners who share the distaste for their product and service as I do. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
At less than 24,000 miles, my clutch has begun to slip terribly and creates a terrible burning smell. I know there are hundreds of other mazda owners who have also had to replace their clutches before they've had to replace brake pads. This is a drain on consumers, and a safety issue to boot.
On december 21, 2010 car stalled and lost steering and brake control on 12/22 happened again resulting in accident and $9,000 in damage.
Tl*the contact owns a 2010 mazda 3. The contact stated that while driving approximately 30 MPH when the vehicle suddenly stalled causing him to loose control of his steering wheel and was also unable to apply the brakes. He then crashed into a mailbox and the side of a mountain. A police was filed. The driver was not injured after the crash. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic. The manufacturer was also contacted and informed him that they were aware of the failure in prior years, but not of the 2010 models. The failure mileage was approximately 6100. Updated 03/03/11
Tl*the contact owns a 2010 mazda mazda3. The vehicle was parked and turned on when it shut off for approximately five minutes. When the contact attempted to restart the vehicle it would not start. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer where they were unable to diagnosed the failure. The failure recurred four times. An authorized dealer was unable to diagnose the failure because the vehicle successfully started after being turned off for an extended period of time. The failure mileage was 14,000 and the current mileage was 14,700.
Smoke came threw the vents of the 2010 mazda3 hatchback and then from under the hood. Then flames came out from hood. It burned until the fire department put it out. It was not able to be repaired.
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