Due to recent reports of fuel pump recalls, my daughter bought a 2018 Toyota Corolla almost a year ago. Right now that is problem and her car will not start. I need a free replacement of her fuel pump. Thank you.
Toyota Corolla won't start problems
104 of the 11,674 owner complaints about the Toyota Corolla describe won't start, most of them for the 2005 model year.
- owner complaints
- 104
- worst model year
- 2005
- typical repair cost reported
- $1,300
- typical mileage
- 55,000
By model year
Often reported together
Stalling 30Fuel pump 14Check engine light 14Loss of power 6Engine failure 6Warning lights 3Steering lock-up 2Overheating 2
Trouble codes mentioned
P0607 2
What owners say
Car would not start/turn over - Not battery related. Toyota determined the ECU went bad and stated the cause was improperly jumping the battery. The issue happened randomly one day (car was driving fine previous days)
To start, on [XXX], I was going through an intersection on a country road and my automatic emergency braking engaged for no reason. My car stopped despite no other vehicle or object being in my way or anywhere close to me. I found it really weird but did not think much about after the fact. I have also heard a rattling noise under my hood since [XXX] and have reported this to Toyota and tried to have it fixed multiple times (and showed them videos) but they were never able to duplicate the noise so it has not been remedied. On [XXX] I was traveling on a highway during rush hour and the traffic in front of me came to a sudden stop. I braked as hard as I could; my automatic emergency braking did not engage and I rear ended the car in front of me (minimal damage to that car). We both immediately pulled partway onto the narrow left berm (we had both been in the left lane to get onto another highway). My car then turned off by itself and gave me an engine warning (I believe low engine oil- I had just had it serviced 3 days prior). The other car owner and I exchanged information quickly and decided to drive away because we were blocking rush hour traffic and it was dangerous. However, my car would not start back up. I called 911 and they came to use their vehicle to push me to the right side of the highway onto an exit where I was no longer blocking traffic. During the wait, I felt like I was going to die with traffic honking and swerving to avoid me. When the police officer was moving my car, the parking brake engaged when I put the car in neutral and would not turn off, so the smell of burning rubber was strong since the tires would not roll. Once the tow truck driver arrived he was able to use jumper cables to disengage the parking brake but the car still would not start. There were no prior warning lights. The car not starting was confirmed by the dealer- they are holding off doing maintenance to have an engineer check out the car and figure out what happened. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INF
Vehicle would not start. After the vehicle's battery was jumped, the vehicle would start, but upon moving the vehicle, the dashboard message read, "Engine Stopped - Steering Power Low." There are numerous entries in online forums of others looking for solution for the same issue. Sometimes others have said that this occurred while in stop-and-go traffic on the highway or idling at a red light. Clearly, if a vehicle becomes disabled on a roadway with no prior warning of a failing battery, that is a safety issue. There was no warning of a failing battery. Battery was replaced, which was a surprise for a 2020 vehicle. However, this issue has occurred in newer vehicles as well if you review the comments in the online forums. Failed battery was tested and measured 67CCA/295CCA @11.44V. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
I purchased my car in March 2023. From the first week, it wouldn't start sometimes. Id wait 5 minutes, then it would start fine. I thought it was when it got wet, at first. I also had a certain part replaced air flow compressor, possibly was called?, thinking this would fix it. It did not. In fact, the problem seemed to be happening more and more but, always, if I waited 5 to 10 minutes, sometimes messed around under the hood, it would start. This was not very comforting however, when it would stall at a light and not start right back up. I took it to AutoZone and was run on the diagnostics machine. Was told it needed new spark plugs and ignition coil packs. Which I got and replaced. Still happening. I took back to AutoZone, had it run again on diagnostic. This time it said battery. So I had a new battery put in. Still happening. All along, might I add, my fuses will blow randomly, my headlights And taillights will blow for no reason. One taillightooks like it melted through the plastic before it decided to blow. I e replaced some fuses, only to have blown again. I also have replaced the light bulb in taillight, only to have blown twice more. This is very dangerous, especially at a traffic light or, late at night if I need to go somewhere or leave somewhere And it won't start. I've been stuck in the middle of the road, on the wring sidevif the riad, in the midfle if a snowstorm, with it not starting for me. Also, it was gett5really cold without heat and, I was nearly hit several times as i was also at the bottom of a steep hill when my car decided to stop sliding backwards and stall on me and would not restart. That was the most fearful I have been with this issue and with good reason! I now see several others having similar issues with their same exact car. Why isn't Toyota addressing this?
One day car does'nt crank. Instrumental panel was dark.' Opened hood checked and closed hood and car started. After 3 weeks later while driving interstate this happened again twice within 2 miles apart when I was returning home. It happened again at 65 miles per hour on the highway. Cruise control lost, lane assist failed instrumental panel getting dark and a message was reading " CHECK THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM". At the dealership parked at the service desk, they asked whether I took a video or pic of the incident. When they tried to start the car to move to the shop car didn't start and same incident happened. Tech found positive terminal cable loose. He retorque cable and after that we do not have that issue. Its a new car and battery terminal Loose? Another electrical issue with the car was unable to open and close front passenger windows from the drivers side switch. Tech found right side windows was not calibrated.
After vehicle is driven for approximately 15 mins or more and then comes to a long stop at a red light or drive thru line (while transmission is in drive and foot is on the brake), idle drops to 500rpm and car starts shaking as if it's about to die. Issue has been ongoing for years even before the fuel pump recall fix was performed but didn't start until around 25 thousand miles. Issue isn't the AC compressor cycling, it is not the secondary/auxillary cooling fans engaging, no check engine lights, no other symptoms. If it gets worse, it could cause the vehicle to completely stall in traffic posing a safety hazard. Shifting the transmission to neutral or park stops the issue. Shifting into neutral and then back to drive temporarily corrects the issue but then it re-occurs after at least 30 seconds or more. Many other 2017 and 2018 Corolla owners have reported this issue as well online and nobody has found the cause.
At a stop, the engine shuts off. This is normal. In two instances, the vehicle threw up multiple warning lights (Press Brake Firmly to Restart) and would not start on the release of the brake. The second incident happened on a hill and the vehicle began to roll backwards. The vehicle then needs to be put in park, shut off and restarted. On the restart it moves again. The dealer was called about this, but said they didn't know it was a problem. They cannot replicate. The safety issue is that the car needs to restart to drive again. At a green light, the car is at risk of being hit since it won't be moving, as expected. It is also a problem that when the brake is released and the issue happens the car can roll backward.
On the morning of 12/7 I tried starting my car, and the engine wouldn't start. There were no warning lights. Finally late afternoon it started up and I immediately drove to Toyota in town. They said my battery was probably dead and replaced it for $160. I then drove to Costco, parked, and then started the car up and went to Hyvee. When driving out of Hyvee, my car's big red battery light popped up, my car started shaking, and then it shut off and would not turn back on. I had to pay for a tow back to Toyota ($196). Today, 12/8, Toyota in town calls me and said it was never a problem with my battery (yet I can't get a refund for them not even checking it in the first place), and that the issue is a fuel pump malfunction. They said the part will cost $1,463 and I will not be able to start my car let alone be safe to drive without it fixed. I am a student and this was the first car I bought and paid off. I have not had any problems with my car, and pride myself in taking very good care of it. I could have gotten in an extremely bad car accident with my car stopping and shutting down, putting not only my life at risk, but other drivers as well. There have been hundreds of reports of 2018 Toyota Corrolla's having fuel pump malfunction recalls; however, my specific VIN has 0 unrepaired recalls listed. This is completely out of the blue and with how new my car is (55,000 miles), how great of a job I do at taking care of it (this is my very first issue ever), and how many previous reports exist for the exact same issue (fuel pump malfunction) with the same year/make/model, it is shocking that my VIN has no associated recalls and am therefore receiving no financial help. I am lucky that I am safe and unharmed, because if this were happening on an interstate (which I frequently take to get to school), I easily would have died.
Newly bought vehicle won't start when key is turned in ignition. Problem is a repeat problem and vehicle was repeatedly towed to dealer (Gosch Toyota). Dealer said there is nothing wrong with the car . Dealer admits he can't reproduce the problem and paperwork I've obtained from them indicates they may not have even tried. Car has major safety issue and is unreliable which is an explanation falling on deaf ears at Gosch. So it remains parked in my driveway. I refuse to put anyone in my family into it because of obvious safety issues. Car is totally unreliable if one can't rely on it to work .
Related recalls
Engine and engine cooling
- What is wrong
- Toyota is recalling certain model year 2005-2008 corolla and corolla matrix vehicles. The engine control module (ECM) for the subject models equipped with the 1zz-fe engine and two-wheel drive may have been improperly manufactured. There is a possibility that a crack may develop at certain solder points or on varistors on the circuit board.
- Risk
- There are a variety of warnings and consequences associated with the defect. The engine warning lamp could be illuminated, harsh shifting could result, the engine may not start, or the engine could shut off while the vehicle is being driven. An engine shutoff while the vehicle is being driven increases the risk of a crash.
- Remedy
- Dealers will inspect the production number of the ECM and replace the ECM if necessary. This service will be performed free of charge. Toyota will mail an interim owner notification the middle of september 2010 to advise owners of this defect and recall. This interim notification will inform owners that they will receive a future notification when parts become available to have the free remedy performed on their vehicle. The safety recall began on november 29, 2010. Owners may contact toyota at 1‑800‑331‑4331.
Recall number 10V384000 · Recall details
Questions about the Toyota Corolla won't start
Which Toyota Corolla years have won't start problems?
The model years with the most reports are 2005 (18 complaints), 2006 (17 complaints) and 2007 (16 complaints).
How much does it cost to fix won't start on the Toyota Corolla?
Owners who mentioned a price put the repair at about $1,300 (median of 13 complaints that include a dollar amount). Costs vary with mileage, warranty and where the work is done.
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