The vehicle failed to start so it was jumpstarted with no problems then taken to get the battery tested. The battery, alternator, and starter all tested ok. Then warning lights indicating that the right headlamp and right rear taillamp illuminated then went out. Vehicle was driven to the dealer and they determined that a part of the fuse box had melted. Upon further inspection a 30amp fuse for the brake lights had melted into the fuse panel, but had not popped the fuse.
2010 Volkswagen Jetta electrical complaints
Page 8 of 9: complaints 191 to 220 of 233, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Exterior lights on both sides of vehicle failed to operate in the dark. Entire fuse box had to be replaced (out of warranty) though vw did agree to pay for the part since the vehicle has not been out for too long.
Driver side door will not unlock with the key fob or via button on drivers side door. Key in outside of lock will work. Intermittently, the rear driver's side door will not unlock at all and therefore won't open from inside or out. Dangerous if someone needs to exit the car. In doing a search online for a potential cause, I found large numbers of forum entries for similar complaints - seems to be a common problem in vw's.
Doors unlock with the keyless entry so I have to manually open the door from the inside- this seems like it is a safety hazard to me. I had three of the four door latches replaced (2 under warranty & 1 I had to pay for) and now the fourth door needs to be replaced. I will have to pay to get it replaced. It seems like this is a known problem why isn't the manufacture paying for it?
The 2010 vw jetta sportwagen tdi (with dsg automatic transmission) was decelerating on a turning lane from a two lane highway from speeds of 55 MPH to 15 MPH. There was an audible "click" and the engine stopped and only dash lights were operable. No discernible dash light or error code message was received. The vehicle restarted after the transmission was placed in park, and the ignition key was again turned on. Again no messages or warnings appeared on the dashboard. Note: the seat heater was engaged (driver's side), air conditioning on, turn signal (left) activated, headlights on, bluetooth for phone linked, radio was operating until the shut-down.
Since the vehicle was purchased it has had rough acceleration and intermittent surging but just recently it has exhibited rough and no starts along with stalls which all seems to be due to an issue with the ecu losing diagnostic communication with the vehicle.
While on vacation and backing up in the hotel parking lot, braking, then putting it in drive, the car would stall out; it happened 3 times in one day. Luckily, I was only in a parking lot while it stalled out instead of in traffic, which could have been a big hazard. Went to the dealer, and they didn't know what is wrong.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 volkswagen jetta. The contact started the vehicle and the instrument panel displayed an error message. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection and they stated the main computer cluster needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 30,000.
2010 volkswagen jetta. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle horn going out.
The vehicle had driven fine all day when all of a sudden when I pulled up to a stop sign, the car died like it was running out of gas. I was in the middle of a the road at the stop sign, the car managed to start again and drive another couple hundred feet to get it off to the side of the road. Luckily I made it just past a set of rail road tracks. The car did not start again and had to be towed. The vehicle had its entire fuel injection pump system replaced along with the sensors. Mechanics have told me that the pumps should last the life of the engine.
Vw jetta tdi purchased in december 2009 in savannah, ga. The rear passenger door has had intermittent problems with the window bumping off the top when we attempt to close it. It then retracts to fully open. The main problem currently is the door lock on the same door. It will not lock under any type of attempt. I have tried the fob, the interior door lock on the driver door, and the lock on the door itself. I took it to the dealer who determined that I need a new lock assembly at the cost of $600. They later offered a reduced price of $491. Fortunately, I purchased a warranty when I bought the car and I only will be charged the $100 deductible. Thank goodness. The car has 60,000 miles on it and it seems a shame that the car is not safe at that minimal amount of miles.
I was traveling up a mountain road when my car decided to turn off. I had to coast across incoming traffic to the turnout. I waited here until I was able to get my car started and was able to drive home. I made an appointment for the following day to have it checked out. I was told it was the engine speed sensor. The epc and engine light were going on intermittently. There was no reason that my car should have these problems not covered by warranty when it is only about 2 years old with less than 60,000 miles on it.
I was driving on the highway doing about 55 miles an hour with full traffic and my jetta sputtered and began to lose speed-quickly, I tried to accelerate by pressing gas pedal but nothing happened and I luckily coasted into store parking lot. I tried to restart it but it would not restart. I had it towed to vw dealership and they called me the next day to say it was the intercoolant system and it would be 1300.00. Very very lucky I was not hit.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 volkswagen jetta. The contact stated that while driving 30 MPH, the transmission overheat warning light illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact moved off the roadway and restarted the vehicle, as it resumed properly. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for inspection where they advised the contact that the transmission needed to be replaced. The dealer also stated that while performing an inspection of the vehicle, he noticed that the wires that were connected to the alternator were burned and the fuse block needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 78,000.
On monday, 11-19, after work I noticed that the bulb indicator light was in on the dashboard. I got out and walked around the car to see what went out and could not find anything. After getting back in I saw that the light was off. The next day when my husband got in the car the same incident happened. Later that same day I drove the car and the light came on. As I turned into a fuel station the turn signal began to flash quickly (indicating the turn signal was out). After I refuel the lights all came back on. No problems were noticed until thursday, 11-22, when my husband started the car and the indicator light was on and he got out to check and the passenger turn signals was out, along with the passenger headlight, and the whole driver side tail light assembly is out.
The seal between the connectors and the drain hose for the sunroof drains leak (three of four connectors), allowing water to run down the both driver and passenger side a-pillars. This resulted in the airbag and its associated mounts/wiring and harness getting soaked. The water continued down the a pillars to collect in the front wheel wells. The path of the water was over/through the drivers side interior junction/fuze block. The rear drains also leak, causing intermittent electrical malfunctions. Note that this leak is not due to the drains being blocked. Rather the seals between the white plastic that connects to the drain and the brown drain hose is not complete. This allows water to drip down onto the frame. As much as 2-3 gallons of water could enter during a mild rain storm.
Car has had issues 4k on. Car would accelerate on its own from 70 MPH to 75 like wide open throttle. Car will quit at highway speeds 70 MPH (no power steering, no brakes, just the service engine now and glowplug light are on flashing,(50k on) this has happened 4 times, car will quit making a right hand turn hitting pothole (50k on). Total dpf system has been changed out two times from two dealers , 3 total with original. Erratic egr signal was always tripping check engine light, some faults but not all are exhaust gas recirc flow insufficient detected sporadic, cylinder 2 injector n31 open circuit sporadic, exhaust aftertreatment fuel supply control performance sporadic, throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performance sporadic, navigation antenna (GPS) short to earth. Dealers have spent over 20 thousand dollars parts and labor, in 4 different shops over 83 days (overnight), over 95 including reading codes only. Out of warranty expenditures over 1 thousand dollars so far. 69,000 miles and the dealer tech has no idea how to fix this car, he started out saying he has never seen a car he can't fix. I have over 50 pages of dealer documented faults and repairs, reprogramming ecu, was replaced this year to see if that would fix problems, some gone but now major issues listed above are happening. Replaced diesel particulate filter 2 times, replaced o2 sensors, replaced egr sensors and gaskets 2 times, replace throttle position sensor, replaced pressure sensor. Only item not replaced is the wiring harness.
Horn is extremely hard to press and activate. Horn does not sound with normal and typical pressure to the steering wheel pad. Horn does not activate even with pounding to the press pad. Horn has repeatedly failed to activate when attempting to warn. This seems to be a serious safety issue, but the dealership service dept has advised it cannot be adjusted or repaired.
While at the dealer for fuel pump failure the car was found to have another serious issue. There was a seal going in to the cowling that had leaked and caused a major amount of water to leak in to the cabin of the vehicle, right where the electrical components and fuse panel are. This caused major damage and the car to stall / not run due to the water damage. Luckily this was found while the vehicle was not moving, otherwise the car would have stopped running due to volkswagen's error of not having a sealed access port to the interior of the vehicle.
Driving in heavy traffic at 45 MPH the car dash dinged, I looked down and immediately the car lost power. I was almost in multiple accidents as the car slowed rapidly without brake lights (the car engine stopped so suddenly that it took three or four seconds to comprehend the situation and activate hazard lights and take appropriate action) to warn other cars that I no longer have power. Also, to try and move out of harms way was extremely difficult as the car had no engine power. The car was eventually towed to the dealer where they determined that metal from the fuel pump was in the entire fuel system.
Front doors do not lock manually or automaticlly.
While driving at 35mph, car stalled out. Battery light flashed, radio etc stayed on, but car had no power at all. Rolled to next intersection, turned car off, and restarted it. Took it to dealer, they said it was a software update, which they then performed. Aug. 24 exiting i95, 65mph, same thing happens, I pressed the gas and the engine was totally dead. Lights and radio stayed on. Once again I rolled to a stop, and restarted the car. Took it to the dealer, they kept it for an hour and said there was nothing wrong with my car. So I took it to another dealer. After having my car for a week they were able to duplicate my problem. Their computers were hooked up to my car at the time, and showed no faults. So they were back and forth with vw tech support, and they are flying in an engineer, and they think it might be the steering control module malfunctioning. They have had my car for two weeks now, I have no idea when it will be fixed, if ever.
Our 2010 vw jetta tdi sportwagen unexpectedly stalled shortly after starting last night. The battery light went on, I then turned keys off and on and it was fine. Saw that there were other complaints, so wanted to add mine.
My vw jetta tdi stalled while coming to a stop sign after the clutch was depressed. It did this occasionally during the first year of ownership. After a year of ownership and a dozen or so incidents, the car started to stall multiple times during a one half-hour commute. Twice recently, once on my way to work and once on my way back, the car stalled two and three times respectively. It even stalled on the highway going 65 MPH when the clutch was depressed. Usually, it stalls when coming to a red light or stop sign when the clutch is depressed in order to take the car out of gear. At 12000 miles, the engine light came on and off a few times and then remained on. The diesel particulate filter and egr valve were replaced which is highly unusual for a car with such low mileage. Also, after my 20000 mile service the engine light went on again and the dealer replaced the #4 exhaust gas temperature sensor. Before the 20k service I had called the dealer the day I stalled 3 times and reported my engine light went on. I went to the dealer a few days later, thursday, for the service and the light had gone out by then. The dealer said there was a software update for the ECM to be done in addition to the regular service. I left the dealer after the 20k service only to have my engine light go on again and the car stall again. So I went back to the dealer and that is when they changed the #4 exhaust gas temperature sensor. It did not sound to me like a proper fix for this problem as I believe it could be either an electronic glitch with the ECM or other electrical components or some fuel system problem whereby fuel flow is interrupted when going from load to no load scenarios, I.e. Clutch engaged. Anyhow, I stalled again two miles from the dealer from which I had driven. The dealer says they can't duplicate it or find any codes related to it. They will call vw again.
I had come to a full stop and was idling at a red light in a busy intersection when the engine stopped suddenly. No misfiring or rough moments before stopping, just a sudden cut off. I put the engine in park and tried restarting the engine. No success. I put the engine in neutral and got a push to the side of the road. Tried starting the engine several times, in park, with no success. Vw called a tow truck. Before accepting a tow I turned the ignition fully off and tried restarting the engine. This time it started. I cancelled the tow. Car is running normally again. This sudden stopping of my engine happened one other time when the car had about 4000 miles on it. I was pulling out of a parking place and the engine shut off as I was pulling forward after just having put it in drive. I restarted the car and a few seconds later the engine started misfiring, but only for a second. Then it ran fine. No further mishaps until may 17, 2011 at 17,500 miles. I notified vw of the mishap when I took it in for it's first check-up. Vw said they didn't find anything wrong and didn't know why it happened. I currently have a call in to vw again, but have not yet heard back from them.
Volkswagen 2010 jetta tdi stationwagon - pulled to stop light and car just shut off - everything all electronics and engine.
On a 40 degree day I drove the car about 1 mile. At a traffic light it stalled. I had to keep the car in park until the light changed, then I put it in drive. When the car was initially started it didn't seem right. It didn't seem to have power or pick up. I noticed the tachometer was quickly bouncing between 1800 RPM down to 400 RPM prior to stalling. Car had half a tank of diesel, outside weather conditions were dry. *tr the consumer stated the stalling is still ongoing. The dealer believed the stalling was a result of different additives in the fuel between winter and summer. Updated 09/14/11
I purchased a 6-speed manual transmission jetta-tdi at the end of december of 2009. I have been driving manual transmission cars since 1975, and I was upset that my car was stalling either just starting out in first or in the lower RPM range of the lower gears when turning and moving through intersections or trying to go uphill when the rpms were in the lower range. Keeping the rpms up a bit seems to have helped, as I am not having it stall as much as before. I also noticed what seemed like a slight hesitation or jerking when cruising . It would be just for a split second and then be gone my accident occurred when I was parallel parking on a hill. I went to back up a bit to straighten out my car and it stalled, rolling forward into the car parked in front of me. Fortunately, no one was injured. Damage was minor, but was submitted to my insurance company. At this point I was just blaming myself for not being able to adjust to the difference of clutching with a diesel engine because I couldn't figure out how to explain it. Then a heard 2 radio reports about the complaints being filed. I called vw of america who listened to my story. They told me that in order to be compensated for my accident, that I would have needed to have had the car towed immediately to a dealership and had it diagnosed. She suggested that I take it to be diagnosed. I took it to the dealer who kept it for two days and could not find anything wrong. A week later, I was coming to a stop for a red light and the rpms began to fluctuate like it was going to stall and then it would come back to normal rpms. When I started to drive it was a little rough, then smoothed out. I called vw of america who recommended that I take it back to the dealer. I am waiting for them to return my call. I have also 3 intermittent problems with my am radio cutting out--are the problems connected?
Multiple incidents that appear to be the same problem/defect. 1. The car sometimes will not start for several minutes, and once it does finally start, has a very rough idle and stalls. After several tries, it finally starts and runs normally. This has happened 7-8 times from july 2010 until the present. 2. Now, over the past two months, the car tries to stall out while driving also, and has resulted in my wife having to pull off the road and restart the car. This has only happened twice so far, but the starting and rough idle problem continues to occur approximately once every couple of weeks. On another note, I want to ensure that if any recalls occur as a result of everybody's complaints, that u.s. Military stationed overseas are not left out. Many of us purchase these u.s. Spec cars from local dealer agencies who (re)import the cars back to europe for this purpose. Oftentimes recalls are not enforceable overseas, however, this is a volkswagen and there are plenty of authorized vw dealers in germany, and in europe as a whole.
I was driving my 2010 vw jetta with my husband and 6 yr old daughter, under normal weather conditions approaching an intersection, about to turn left across the intersection when my vehicle just died. It was towed into where I purchased it seeing as it was only 90 days old and they have had it since. There has been no formal diagnosis, I was told it "could be electrical" and some electrical wires were cleaned and replaced.
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