2000 Volkswagen Passat transmission problems

Filed Feb 16, 2009 · Transmission · 130,000 miles · FL

1. My 2000 vw passat 1.8t automatic reached 130k miles. 2. There is a failure in whatever component stabilizes the steering wheel at idle when the car is in drive or reverse. The problem does not in occur when at idle in neutral. The exact symptoms of the problem are a very strong vibration that can be felt through the steering wheel and the entire cabin. The only fix has been to put the car in neutral when at the stop sign/light. 3. Corrective actions that have been taken so far are new engine mounts, new transmission mounts, new transmission stabilizer bar, and verifying the drive belt is tight enough. Vw is well aware of the problem, because it is a common problem that occurs in b5 & b5.5 model automatic passats. There are some reports of passats with low mileage that have this problem. The vw corporation does not have a solution. People have literally traded in their passats, because they can't fix the problem. My stand is that there is no way that a car company this size doesn't have a clue as to what causes this problem and how to fix it. I refuse to subscribe to the notion that I have to buy another car when this problem occurs.

Filed Mar 25, 2007 · Transmission · WA

1) rain water entered the vehicle , 2000 passat, 6cylinder, auto matic transmission and pooled approximately 2-3 inches) in the rear passenger side of the vehicle. Source of leak was unknown. All windows and doors were closed. *ak 2) this LED to the transmission control unit, which is housed under the passenger side, to become wet and malfunction. The transmission then began shifting up, and down erratically, while driving. 3) the dealership claimed this was not covered under the transmission warranty. The transmission control unit had to be replaced at a cost of $1351 dollars for the part and $250 for labor. Research on the web indicates that this is a common problem with vw's and is likely due to a design flaw which causes water to drain into the interior of the vehicle when certain drain holes become clogged.

Filed Jul 20, 2006 · Transmission · 88,718 miles · WA

The problem is intermittent, having occurred approximately fifteen to twenty times during the past year. It can be best described as a sudden lurching, which has occurred while stopped, while at freeway speeds (60-70 MPH), and at speeds between these two extremes. While stopped, it is as if the transmission engages, and the vehicle lurches forward; extra brake pressure must be applied during these occurrences, which last less than a second or two, but which occur without warning. While the vehicle is in motion, the problem manifests itself as a sudden, unexpected, virtually instantaneous decrease in speed of between five and ten miles per hour; this decrease in speed occurs in less than a second. One good way to describe the feeling is that it is as if the vehicle has hit something. I consider this an extremely dangerous condition, because if this were to happen, for example, at freeway speeds while on a curve in the rain, control of the vehicle could be lost. I have informed my local dealer of this issue, but since they have been unable to reproduce the problem themselves (due to its intermittent nature), they have done nothing to rectify it.

Filed Jun 14, 2006 · Brakes, Electrical · 50,000 miles · UT · 1 injury

9/2003: headlights aimed incorrectly; road wasn't illuminated. Within 2 wks, 1 of the bulbs burned out. Within a week of the 1st, the 2nd bulb burned out. Cost to have headlights repositioned & bulbs replaced: $267. 9/2003: rear tail light out. Cost to have bulb replaced by mechanic: $32.50. 11/2003: both rear windows off track. Cost to tear doors apart & fix: $159.75. 12/2003: electrical problems with front power windows. Never know if window will go up or down. 2004: had car in for (at least) 3 different dashboard warning codes. One had something to do with fuel, or the fuel tank or something. After some trial and error on my mechanic's part, discovered that unscrewing and tightly rescrewing gas cap fixed the problem. Cost to diagnose and "fix": $165. Had (at least) two other warning codes in 2004 that required me to take the car in. 6/24/2005: had been hearing crunching sound from front right portion of car that was particularly apparent when hitting a pothole, a dip in the road or attempting a tight 360 turn. Mechanic (specializing in european cars) identified a bad control arm. Cost of repair & alignment: $713.70. Cost of rental car: $100.88. Total: $814.58. Note: the left side has been making the same sound since 12/2005. Have not yet repaired it. 10/24/05: car started going dead intermittently. The car had less than 60000 miles on it. Replaced battery for $106.50. 1/2006: temp gauge maxed out, coolant boiled over, smoke & steam issued from hood in less than 8 minutes at idle. Cooled car for 2l hours, replaced coolant and drove to mechanic, who replaced thermostat, water pump & timing belt. Cost: $725. 2/2006: brakes are spongy and provide no resistance until nearing the floor. Mechanic says rotors and brake pads are fine. 6/2006: transmission gets stuck in 1st gear. Must stop the car, turn it off and then restart. This is an electrical problem and is governed by the computer. Cost to fix: unknown. 6/2006: front window now off track. Have not yet fixed it.

Filed Nov 19, 2005 · Transmission · CO

I currently have about 43k miles and I have noticed for some time now that the clutch needed to be let out further than seemed normal for it to engage. I've mensioned it several times when it was in for routine service, and was told it was 'normal' and they couldn't adjust it. As I was driving and went to shift, I notice that all of a sudden it had to be let almost all the way before anything happend; it felt very different. Took it to the dealer the next day and found out that it was "burnt out." at only 42k miles, it seems a little premature to have burned out a clutch already.

Filed Mar 4, 2005 · Transmission · FL

1) I was driving along a major highway (I-75) when I saw someone driving erratically, weaving in and out of traffic in my rear-view mirror. He looked close to hitting me, so I accelerated to not allow his car to do this.*ak 2) after stepping on the gas, and getting out of danger, my car would not slow down. I would step on the brake, and it would slow, but once I let off on the brake the car would surge foward (without me even pressing the gas). I did not have cruise control on at all. 3) I was unable to have the car stop suddenly accelerating. Once I was able to pull off to the side of the higway, I put the car into neutral and then back to drive and that was able to solve the problem. Though if there was more traffic I worry if I would be able to pull of to the side of the road safely, while having to press my brake the entire time. 2000 volkswagon passat v6

Filed Dec 3, 2004 · Airbags, Brakes · CA

This vehicle had multiple problems. Consumer noticed that the ABS braking system failed, and the SRS air bag light appeared on the dashboard and remained on. Consumer was able to shift the vehicle into drive and reverse without the vehicle being turned on. Consumer took vehicle to the dealer for inspection, and mechanic determined that the ABS braking system, and the SRS air bag light module needed to be replaced. Also, a transmission problem.

Filed Aug 25, 2004 · Transmission · 80,000 miles · AL

When accelerating from a stop light front passenger side axle broke. As a result, vehicle was unable to be moved, and consumer had to get the vehicle towed.

Filed Jul 10, 2004 · Brakes, Steering · VA

Rear brakes replaced/tie rod boots/ front axle rusted/replaced.

Filed Mar 10, 2004 · Transmission · 49,000 miles · PA

I have a vw passat 4-motion wagon tiptronic that exhibits the problem of refusing the downshift from second into first at slow speeds when the accelerator is pushed firmly. Then, the engine races wildly for an instant and then "bangs" into gear. The dealer acknowledges the problem, but thus far there's no fix for it. Engine: 2.8 v6 year: 2000 gear: moving from 2nd into 1st erratic and seems somewhat heat-related--worst in hot weather first noticed: about 49,000 miles car can be downright dangerous if problem occurs while merging onto a busy highway. Refer to audiworld web page for similar owner audi quattro problems with 2.7l v6 and tiptronic.