The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated while attempting to shut-off the vehicle, the key ceased in the accessory position. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 43,000.
2014 Chevrolet Captiva electrical complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 60, newest first, as owners wrote them.
The captiva suddenly shuts down randomly for absolutely no reason. The issue was directed to be repaired in the other chevy vehicles because they issued a service bulletin however the captiva is a fleet vehicle which means they didn't fix the known issue of putting a ford battery sensor on a chevy vehicle because fleet vehicles are rarely serviced by a dealership. This is dangerous and someone is going to die if they haven't already. This happened to me losing all power and completely shutting down going 65 MPH on the freeway with my children in the car with me. I've not driven this car since august because I don't want to die and I still owe about 4 years of payments on this lemon.
Electrical power to the vehicle cuts out randomly, causing the engine to shut down if driving and losing power steering control and power brakes or the power parking brake randomly engages, creating the potential for a driving hazard. Power also cuts out randomly which causes the vehicle not to start. Driver has to open the hood and manually move the negative battery cable connected to the battery, sometimes multiple times, in order for power to be restored. This manual move puts the person in immediate danger of electrical shock should anything create a power arc while performing this maneuver. Gm service bulletin #13186 dated june 2013 addresses this issue with a defect in the negative battery cable, but limits it only to the warranty period only of the new vehicle and not the vehicle as a whole, yet no recall has ever been issued. Based on comments posted on the chevy forum, this problem is consistent and widespread across the chevy captiva vehicles. It is only a matter of time when one of these random power shutdowns leads to a serious accident or death. At the present time we are forced to replace both the positive and negative battery cables at a cost of $590.
I have a 2014 c. Captiva at 79k miles, one sunday on my way to church, driving on the highway, I heard a pop and the car shifted right and slowed down, I get to church and the serpentine belt came off, pump was leaking oil electrical system shut down. Over $1200 in repair cost. A few months later p0430 error code - catalytic converter replaced, new brakes front and back. Car has not been right since. Past 4 months traction control issues. If I hold my foot on brake at stop sign, alarm goes off dashboard lights up: traction control, engine light and stabilitrak. Three different mechanics looked at my vehicle to no avail. I took it to my chevy dealer and yesterday was advised my car is fine drive it for 150 miles. I go out this morning at 5:00 am and while at traffic light, (1.5 miles) all lights back on. Whatever the issue, chevy needs to thoroughly check to see what's causing the issue, the weather is changing. I'm just over 80k miles and I believe my car has been through the extreme and has yet to be broken in. All these occurences happend within 12 months. I love this car and hopefully chevy can get to the root of my issues as they are directly related to the engine. 79k miles my car went to a chevy dealer with complaints of engine . 80,547 miles back in for engine repairs. Diagnosis 15 loss of communication codes and low battery voltage.
The car will go completely dead with 0 power and the key will not come out of the ignition. Open the hood and pound on a fuse box and it will start. It is done this one is stationary and when you're pulling on to the highway or out of your driveway and it will kill itself
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that in order for the vehicle to be started, he would move the seat backward and forward by touching the electric seat switch then the vehicle would start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the negative battery cable was defective and needed to be replaced. The technician referred the contact to a chevrolet dealer. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer and was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 62,000.
Key ignition doesn't work have hard time trying get car to start. While driving all electrical will go off and car will stop then after trying few times will restart. Had battery replaced and engine checked says maybe sensor.
Frequently car will not start even with good battery and cable connections. While driving car will lose power. The 3 gauges(RPM, speedometer, and gas) all stop and working. The car will still run but at a much less power. Sometimes they start working but rpms will run very high and speed is greatly decreased. Message comes across to service stabilitrak and traction control. Warning lights come on such as ABS, tcs warning,stabilitrak indicator, and parking brake warning. Doors lock and unlock repeatedly. At times have been able to reset by unhooking battery cable and reconnecting and waiting. No pattern as to when and why it happens. Major safety concern. Have even replaced under-hood fuse box. Oh and key gets stuck in ignition. While I will put a date, know that this is happened multiple times over the last year. Usually two times a week sometimes more
In january 2020 I took the car into the shop after hearing noise from the engine. I had to have the timing chain replaced, but as they looked it over they said the engine needed replaced, due to oil leaking. A couple weeks before it was very cold close to 4 degrees and while I was driving into work at 6am I heard a loud sound while at a red light, it sounded like a gun shot. I assumed it was coming from a nearby neighborhood. But to find out my mechanic said that was the engine frozen and popped. He said when its cold that happens to this engine. Unreal! Two weeks ago, my car started to smell like it was burning and gas. So I took it in and they replaced the cat converter,exhaust manifold, and leaking seal. Last week, I went to unlock the doors with the remote the rear wiper fluid motor started and ran continuously, to the point it doesn't work at all now. Now this week my trunk will not open, both front head lights burnt out, my traction control keeps turning on/off, my speakers are popping, radio is cutting in/out. I bought this car from the dealer in 2014 with 12k miles on it, always serviced the vehicle, changed the oil regularly, inspected yearly, preventive maintenance every 6 months. Now have 83k miles and I need this car to last me two more years.
The ignition switch on my 2014 chevy captiva gets stuck and it does not allow the key to be removed when turning it off when stationary. Upon personal research it was discovered that this model has had this issue with countless drivers (typically at 40k-50k miles) and is not addressed by gm as a recall or safety issue. However, when the switch is unable to be removed it is a sensory issue, the vehicle key is also able to come out while on drive. A simple search 'chevy captiva key stuck' will result in many such incidents.
I bought the car used and within the first 7 days when I was leaving for work, the car wouldn't start. The lights flickered 1 time and then went off. I turned the key back thinking I had a bad crank and then tried to start it up again, there was no lights or anything. Tried to take the key out the ignition, the key would not come out. After playing with the car, trying to jump it, I lost home and was reaching to take my badge out from between the seats. When I was pushing the seats backwards, the lights came back in and the car started. 2 days later when I got home from grocery shopping, I hit the clicker to unlock the trunk, it wouldn't open, tried to unlock it from the door, wouldn't open. Put the key in the ignition, car wouldn't turn on and the key wouldn't come out the ignition.
I absolutely love my car. I take it in for regular maintenance. It has 71k miles. Within the past (9) serpentine belt came completely off, power steering pump had to be replaced, engine completely died electrical system needed to be repaired. Car out of commission for (3) weeks, had it towed from site to my mechanic and towed from their to bowser chevrolet.. Now my engine light is on. Sensor was replaced last week, light went out; my engine light is back on. I will be taking it in for repairs. P0420 issue. I'm hoping it falls within pa state specified major emission-control components are warranted for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use.
My current problem is that I am now in need of a new engine due to the fact that this engine, the same engine that is in the class action lawsuit, uses an excessive amount of oil and therefore has caused motor damage over the past 6 years. I regularly change my oil, but didn't realize how much oil this engine goes through in addition to regular oil changes. It should not need a new engine at this point if the engine functioned correctly. In addition, a few months back I have difficulty with the car not starting as if the battery was dead. No electrical would work at all in the car even with a new battery. I would have to mess with the battery connections to get the car to start or hit the fuse box. Also, I have had time with the key getting stuck in the ignition and draining the battery.
Key sticks in the ignition lock--unable to remove key. Key sticks on accessory setting potentially causing battery drain. Vehicle is stationary and in park. It happens periodically. There are many complaints on-line regarding this issue so this is not an isolated problem.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key ceased in the ignition. The contact was unable to remove the key from the ignition. After several attempts the battery terminals were disconnected and the key was released from the ignition. The dealer (bay ridge chevrolet 1575 86th st, brooklyn, ny 11228 (833) 452-1829) was contacted and informed of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 54,000.
My key is stuck in the ignition and it drains my battery.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the vehicle's key would intermittently become stuck in the on position inside the ignition switch. The contact took the vehicle to two separate dealers, dutch miller kia of charleston (335 maccorkle ave sw, charleston, wv 25303) and joe holland chevrolet & imports (210 maccorkle ave sw, south charleston, wv 25303) where they were both unable to remedy the vehicle. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer had not been notified. The failure mileage was approximately 25,000.
Key will not come out of the ignition after turning vehicle off and no power related equipment will come on. This happens intermittently and seemingly randomly. Shift won''t move when this happens and turning key back into start position does nothing. Doors won't lock with key fob and no dash lights come on, or anything. Sometimes pushing wires into negative battery terminal will correct it and sometimes not. Key release lever on steering column does not release the key when this happens, nor does turning the steering wheel to unlock it. This is an annoying issue as there doesn't seem to be any reliable fix for this, or any recall, or knowledge on the part of the dealership as to how to remedy this. This issue makes this vehicle very unreliable and unsafe, as well as costly to owner in finding any permanent fix. This vehicle has many other unsatisfactory issues and is very poorly made in general. It's surprising there are not more recalls and complaints!
I was driving on the highway and turned on my turn signal and the car shut down. The emergency brake light came on and my power steering and brakes went out. As I tried to make my way to the side of the road, the car started running again. I was traveling at 80mph and was surrounded by others traveling at the same rate of speed. I was lucky I wasn't killed. I also have to try multiple times to start the car, and the key has to be released manually.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key was stuck in the ignition. The ignition system would not release the key or recognize that the vehicle was in the park position. Libertyville chevrolet (1001 s milwaukee ave, libertyville, il 60048, (847) 932-3170) and the manufacturer both stated that the vehicle was not included in a recall. The dealer quoted that the repairs would cost $600 minimum. The contact researched the repairs as costing anywhere from $600 to $1,100. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was 60,000.
I had driven it about 12 miles and killed the car meaning I turned it off and immediately it had no power what so ever. Then sat nov 30,2019 I was driving it down the highway and the sensor lights for the parking brake came on and it chimed letting me know something was wrong and then it quit. Sun, dec 1st, 2019 I was driving down the highway in okc and the same issue with the parking brake sensor light came on several times through the night. Next, I had turned down a side road about to drive over a speed bump, when the car slipped out of 1st gear only allowing the motor to rev, and it just rolled while the inside and outside lights blinked and flickered and the doors unlocked themselves. Once I took my foot off of the gas and allowed the car to roll a few minutes, it engaged back into drive and my uber rider asked me what was wrong, and I explained, that im having electrical issues and this is not only putting me and my wife in danger, but all of my uber passengers as well. I would like to get some resolution on this issue and get it fixed, so our lives and everyone around us is out of danger.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key would release from the ignition without warning. The contact spoke with best chevrolet (2600 veterans memorial blvd, kenner, la 70062, (504) 315-7790) and was informed that the unknown recall for this defect was discontinued. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and offered a $100 voucher. The failure mileage was 100,000.
Car loses voltage while driving and radio shut off. Sometimes car will not start and I have to bang the fuse box to get a connection. I have also seen the emergency parking brake icon, ABS, traction control and service traction control all light up.
Just like numerous other complaints. This has happened several times and today was just ridiculous. The key will not come out of the ignition, we have had to wiggle the battery cable or take out of park before the car will release the key. This can take several hours before being able to travel or utilize the vehicle.
Several times the key will not come out of the ignition I have to take out of park and sometimes I restart several times before I can get the key out of the ignition
I have owned my captiva for 16 months. The key is constantly getting stuck in the ignition. My husband had to open the steering wheel and press a button to release the key.I keep a screw driver in my car just in case the key gets stuck.
My 2014 captiva has approximately 48,000 miles. Since approximately march 1, 2019 my key has gotten stuck in my ignition in the accessory position approximately 15 times. It is getting harder and harder to get the key out. I usually have to stop and start the car several times. This happens when I try to turn the car off after putting the gear shift into park position.
The key gets stuck in acc part of the ignition and cannot come out. It takes a long time to get unlocked and if I leave it there it will drain the battery. I see this is a common issue for this vehicle I hope gm will address the issue.
I own a chevy 2014 captiva lt and after putting the car into park, I was unable to get the key out of the ignition. It has / had happened maybe about 4-5 times. Eventually, I was able to get the key out. The last time I was unable. Turned off all the lights, radio, everything electrical, and closed the door. The next day, had the car battery jumped, because there was no power, and then drove the car to the dealership/garage and had it looked at...the problem, the ignition solenoid. After picking up the car, ironically, another chevy captiva was towed in with the same problem.
I recently bought a 2014 chevy captiva ltz. Upon driving it off of the lot and parking, I tried to use the button for the back windshield washer to wash the windshield and the wiper would come on but no water came out. I done this repeatedly thinking maybe it just took some time to get back there, when I started hearing water running and stopped pressing the button immediately. Immediately following that, I started to smell something burning and the speakers started making a popping sound. The washer fluid was leaking inside the rear paneling and soaking several electrical connections. This is a major fire hazard as there is a lot of instrument wiring on that side.
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