I am not always able to remove the key from the ignition when the vehicle is in park. The problem began at about 36.000 miles. There is no consistency or pattern of behavior for this problem. I can go for days without a problem then it will happen about every other time I drive the car. Up to this point I have been able to restart the car, put it in reverse, pull forward and jam the transmission into park. 2 to 4 tries later I can remove the key. On my first complain at the dealer, I was told that I was not pushing the key in before attempting to remove it. I did some research and complained a 2nd time. Now the dealer is paying attention. I notice most of the complaints for this model are for the same issues as I am describing here. Gm has paid for the repair of this problem for other modals. Thus far, I see no such response for the captiva!
2014 Chevrolet Captiva electrical complaints
Page 3 of 3: complaints 41 to 60 of 60, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key was unable to be removed from the ignition. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (billy navarre chevrolet, 1300 e college st, lake charles, la 70607, 337‑474‑1999 and 337‑377‑0601), but the failure was unable to be replicated and diagnosed because the key was able to be removed and turned in the ignition. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and could not assist since the dealer could not replicate the failure. The VIN was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 35,540.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While the ignition was in the off position, the key was unable to be removed. The failure occurred without warning. The dealer (moran chevrolet ft gratiot, 4511 24th ave, fort gratiot twp, mi) was called, but the contact refused to get the vehicle diagnosed due to their diagnostic fees. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 52,613.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key would be stuck in the 'acc' position. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (lou bachrodt chevrolet buick gmc 7070 cherryvale n blvd, rockford, il 61112) where it was diagnosed that failure was due to a failed shifter module. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified and case number: 8-4010022838 was opened. The failure mileage was 70,860.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. On several occasions, the key seized in the ignition and was unable to be removed. The vehicle was taken to rotolo chevrolet (16666 s highland ave, fontana, ca 92336, (909) 822-1111), but the mechanic was unable to remove the key. The contact was also informed that there was an error in communication between the ignition and the gear shift lever's position. After a while of maneuvering the gear shifter from park to drive and then back to park, the contact was able to remove the key from the ignition. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 40,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key became stuck in the ignition and would not turn past the accessory position. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the shift assembly failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer (spitzer chevrolet north canton, 7111 sunset strip ave nw, north canton, oh 44720) referred the contact to the manufacturer. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The failure mileage was 46,000.
I can't remove the key from the SUV after turning the vehicle off. This started about two months ago. At first I was able to turn the SUV back on and was able to remove the key. It has been worst lately. As I fill out this complaint , the key is still stuck in the ignition, so if anyone would like to steal my car, they could. The SUV just turned 56000 miles. Gm need to fix this, as this has been a problem not only with the captiva, but other gm models as well. I have had to sit in my car for almost an hour before the key could be removed. Had I known that this was a common problem, I would not have purchased a gm vehicle. This should be a recall,
The key gets stuck in the ignition and will not turn back past acc. This requires the operator to turn the vehicle on and off countless times, leave the keys in the ignition, leave the car running etc, because the key will not come out. Engaging the shifter and turning the steering wheel do not send a 'signal' to let the key release.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to turn off. More than one independent mechanic and lock technician inspected and diagnosed the vehicle, but were unable to provide a permanent remedy to prevent the failure. The key remained in accessory mode, causing the contact to have to secure the vehicle with the key being unable to turn over to remove. The manufacturer advised the contact to take the vehicle to the dealer (century 3 chevrolet, 2430 lebanon church rd, west mifflin, pa 15122, 1-(412) 466-9210) for diagnostic testing. It was unknown if a dealer was contacted as of yet. The manufacturer provided no specific testing and had 111 tsbs regarding the electrical system. The approximate failure mileage was 73,650.
In july, 2017, the ignition key would get stuck even when the vehicle was in park. We took the vehicle in to get serviced at authorized service center the lock cylinder was replaced. In late january 2018, the same issue occurred and lock cylinder was replaced again. On 29 jan 2018, the same issue occurred for a third time ( key would turn to off position when vehicle was in park or neutral. This time the service provider stated that it was the solenoid in the transmission snifter that was the problem. This is now a $580.00 bill because even though the initial problem occurred last summer when the powertrain was under warranty, it is not under warranty now and we have to pay out of pocket. After some research then and now, it appears that this is becoming a common problem with captivas.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key fob failed to unlock the doors and had the doors had to be manually locked and unlocked. The key fob was stuck in the ignition. While driving 65 MPH, the instrument cluster flashed and the vehicle stalled and restarted. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer (jack schmitt chevrolet, 127 regency park, ofallon, il 62269), but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the issue and opened case number: 8-3424683927. The contact was advised to take the vehicle to the dealer. The failure mileage was 62,200.
Key gets stuck in the ignition. It's not reading that it's in park. From what I've been reading online, it's a common problem with this model. Wiring has a short somewhere. I've had to change my break lights 3 times and had to change my head lights 7 times since the 2 years I've had it. With as being a newer vehicle, I shouldn't have this many problems.
After driving the vehicle and stopping, I put the gear shifter in park and the key will not go back to the lock position and release from the ignition. I went to the chevrolet dealer and they replaced the solenoid and the gear shifter which fixed the problem. The said they were not getting a signal from the gear shifter to the solenoid which was keeping the key from being released. I also found a gm recall article for the same problem on other vehicle models which I am including.
Driving home thurs night, 1-12-2017, I smelled a burning scent. Figured it was outside in the air coming thru the vents. No warning lights were on. Fri. Morning, 1-13-2017, driving to work I smelled the same odor & it got stronger the longer I was in the car. But again no warning lights came on. I pulled the sun visor down as I drove, pushed it over against the drivers side window and extended it to cover the length of the glass as it is intended to do. While turning left off of a 6 lane road onto a parkway the visor moved to touch the side of my head. I reached up to push it back and my left hand fingers touched the bar that holds the visor and it painfully burned my fingers as I pushed it back to the window!!! Still no warning lights. To be sure it was that hot and not wanting to touch it again, I held a plastic cut up to the bar and smoke appeared and it melted the rim of the cup. I was petrified as I was in the middle of traffic on a 6 lane parkway & afraid a flash fire was about to happen near my face and head . Got to work & as I am a nurse immediately treated the wounds/burns with silvadene and a dressing. Asked one of my surgeons what to do and he said take the car immediately to a chev dealer as it may catch fire!!!!!!!!!!! Took it in, they saw my hand bandaged up , checked the car in and inspected it and found a short in the wire from the map lights to the visor!! They replaced the wiring and the visor. We looked for all recalls and found nothing on this problem. I asked if they had seen this before and they said no, so I thought it best to contact your agency in case it happens to someone with kids, or disabled people etc in the car that had to be helped to get out quickly!! Luckily it was just me in the car. I got the car back yesterday, wed. 1-18-2017 and all appears to be well. Please alert the correct people to this hazard.
Just started a couple of days ago. I have a hard time getting the key out of the ignition. I have to mess with it for awhile and then it will come out. I am stationary and it park and it will still not disengage.
Tl* the contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the ignition key failed to turn to shut off the vehicle. The key would not disengage from the ignition. The failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was not available.
1. When in cruise control and having the radio on and then using the turn signal, vehicle decelerates, (on highway( 2. Tire pressure sensor was sensing the wrong tire as having low tire pressure. (in motion, city street) 3. Vehicle clock resets to 12:00. (stationary) 4. Vehicle will not start...wait about 1/2 an hour and maybe it will start. (stationary) I would consider this very much a safety concern. After passing a vehicle, my vehicle decelerates, which is alarming.
While driving I was suddenly overcome by a noxious odor which caused burning in my eyes, nose and throat. I turned off my A/C and opened my windows which helped dilute the odor. By chance I lifted my driver-side visor and a loud clicking occurred. I repeated this to try to figure out what was wrong, then when I grasped the rod that the visor slides on my fingers were burned and blistered.because it was so hot. The cabin lights flicker and the headlights do as well. The ceiling area by the visor becomes very hot to the touch. When the car is off, it begins to cool. I think this has been coming on for a while because of the flickering, but I had no idea that it might all be related. By the way, I had my car less than 9 months when the battery died. Odd for a 2014 vehicle.
On july 9, 2015 at approximately 4pm I noticed what appeared to be (cold) frost blowing from the inside vents of my vehicle, and as I looked at the temp. Gauge I noticed it was going up in the 200s so I immediately turned on my heat too reduced the temp., because I thought th vehicle was over heating. But after awhile I notied the temp was not going down so I switched ti the AC, and immediately the temp. Began to go down back to normal, which is 181 on average. I'm not sure what this means, as I did have coolant in the overflow tank. I took the vehicle in for an oil change and mentioned this issue to the service person and they stated something about the AC compressor, which I did not understand. So I've been running my AC whenever the temp gauge goes up. To this day I still don't know why this is happening.
Electrical and speed control: replaced instrument cluster and programmed. Cruise control and odometer did not match programmed 70 MPH and registered 68. Engine: valve or lifter clatter unable to duplicate. Door rattle: found lock knob vibrating in door panel hole insulate rod: noise gone.
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