2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 engine problems

Filed Mar 15, 2026 · Airbags, Engine · TX

Airbag recall Recall Engine knock sensors bad

Filed Mar 7, 2020 · Engine · 28,000 miles · AZ

Hello, I was driving and all of all sudden the car was not able to make another change and I stopped and checked the fron of my car and notice something was leaking from the engine, and had been told that if the engine hot damage I would have to have a new one put in. I could only spped up to 35 MPH

Filed Dec 14, 2018 · Engine · 136,000 miles · OR

On the exhaust manifold, the bolts break off at the head of the bolt whether the vehicle is in motion or not. Sometimes the bolts break off flush with the manifold and sometimes they break off flush with the head. I personally have had 6 out of the 12 bolts on my engine break off. The fix is to drill out the remaining piece of bolt (threaded part) and then use a bolt extractor to remove the remaining piece of bolt that is still seized in the head. Well, the most common bolt to break off out of the 12 manifold bolts is the one directly in front of the drivers position. Unfortunately, that is the hardest bolt to remove because of it's location. Most shops I've been to say that the ticking sound that you hear once this bolt breaks off is a loose lifter. That is incorrect! The ticking sound is actually an exhaust leak stemming from, most likely, the broken bolt directly in front of the driver. The sound goes away once the engine warms up because of the metal expanding with the temperature increase. I had 3 mechanics under the hood of my truck for almost 9 hours trying to remove the 6 bolts that had broken on my engine. They had broken every drill bit in their shop (the shop is a 14 lift, 16 bay shop) that could possibly be used to drill a hole for the extractor just trying to get a hole for the extractor to fit in and then the bolt extractor broke off in the last bolt which happened to be the one directly in front of the driver. They had the cross member removed and were preparing to drop my engine when I told them to just stop there. I couldn't afford any more of a fix since I was $1,800 deep into this one day at the shop as it was. This is such a common problem that there are aftermarket contraptions to bolt on and cinch the manifold down with another bolt. That isn't the right thing to do. There should be a recall and I should get reimbursed!

Filed Nov 30, 2016 · Body, Brakes · 210,000 miles · IL

Had to disconnect the anti lock brake so I could stop. When driving slow and pressing on the brake pedal, the pedal is solid and does not move. Very dangerous. Cannot stop the vehicle at all. Brake lines rotted out. Has to replace. Transmission lines rotted out. Had to replace. Transmission oil cooler rotted out. Had to replace. Fuel lines are rotting out. Not replaced yet. Drive shaft is questionable. Severely rusted. Rear backing plates rotted off, no more parking - emergency brake. Check engine light will not go out. Replaced catalytic converter many times with no results. Engine leaks oil. Loosing coolant, possible burning it. Fuel mileage is terrible. Body rusted out. Rocker panels are gone. Cab corners are gone. Rear bumper is gone. Putting the spare tire underneath is a stupid idea. The cost to replace these parts is too expensive. For what these vehicles cost new all of these parts should be made out of stainless steel or use plastic for the fuel lines and brake lines. The check engine light being related to a pollution control device should be entire covered by the manufacturer. These parts and whatever is upstream that caused the pollution control part to fail should be covered by the manufacturer in perpetuity. Anti lock brakes should be removed from all cars. The parts are too expensive to replace. The cost should not be on the shoulders of the car owner.

Filed Aug 25, 2015 · Electrical, Engine · OR · crash · fire

Fatal collision occurred on 8/20/15 on sr 126e in lane county, oregon. Vehicle drifted off roadway and sustained frontal impact with large tree resulting in engine fire. This is the third of three chev silverados that have been involved in frontal impacts this year that has resulted in a fire

Filed Apr 3, 2015 · Electrical, Engine · 168,267 miles · OH

Driving at approximately 30 MPH, started to make right turn and engine suddenly shut off and just as quickly kick started. Later same day engine shut off in parking lot, but I was able to immediately restart it. The next day engine did the same thing (shut off) but again, I was able to immediately restart it.

Filed Dec 30, 2014 · Electrical, Engine · 50,000 miles · CA

My car has only 50,400 miles-its a 2009, yesterday while driving I felt a jolting in the rear end of the truck and it continued each time I stopped and started driving again. I took it to my mechanic who informed me it was a transmission shifting problem. I went on line and discovered that this issue has been related to other silverado trucks as a recall due to a shift cable adjuster problem which can lead to a roll away.

Filed Dec 3, 2014 · Engine · 110,000 miles · WA

Coolant leak (internal) into crankcase motor overheating, bearing failure,lost of oil pressure crack in cylinder heads (castech)#862

Filed Dec 9, 2013 · Engine · 160,000 miles · KY

My truck has the bad gm castech cylinder heads that leak coolant into the oil. Gm knows about this problem via gm tsb. Dealer and mfg. Refused to do anything. I feel this is not a mechanical wear issue. It is bad heads from the manufacturer. Gm should be forced to acknowledge this issue and recall the affected vehicle.

Filed Oct 26, 2012 · Engine · 38,771 miles · KY

Tl* the contact owns a 2000 chevrolet silverado 1500. The contact stated that while having the vehicle serviced, he was advised that there were needle bearings in the oil. In addition, the rocker arm had failed. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted about the issue. The failure mileage was 38,771 and the current mileage was 38,850.