My 2013 volt has started giving me only a maximum of 35 miles charge, but really only giving me 27-32 even through I drive in low (which always gave me more miles than the car thought I'd get). Maybe this is connected to the new problem? Yesterday when I turned on the car (driving in gas because I had run out of electric) it gave gave me a "propulsion power reduced" error message. I tried turning it off and on several times, but the error stayed. I had to drive from downtown la in a car that could barely move. About 8 miles in, the error disappeared and the car ran normally. The dealership tells me they couldn't find any error messages (?!), but maybe, maybe that problem and the charging problem could be corrected by a $300 software update. Maybe. Meantime, I found that some 2013 volts were recalled for exactly this error problem, but apparently not mine. The dealership doesn't seem to be interested in finding out what's wrong, and gm says to go to the dealership (gm, in fact, hung up on my today). So let me get this straight, gm, you know you built cars with software problems, but we need to pay to correct them? And you're not even sure it will correct it??????
2013 Chevrolet Volt transmission complaints
Page 2 of 2: complaints 11 to 24 of 24, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Volt has minimal propulsion when stomping on the accelerator in electric or hybrid mode. It has lost 60-70 percent of its power since new. It is a safety hazard when pulling onto a highway or needing to accelerate to avoid a accident. Chevrolet says nothing is wrong and refuses to acknowledge the issue not wanting to honor electric warranty.
On sept. 5th 2018 I hit the center island while turning on the city street at about 15mph. The impact was so slight that the air bags didn't even deploy. I was able to get it to the dealers on it's own power. My insurance company sent their appraiser ,jeremy , to inspect the damage. I had to get some items out of my car before that. The mechanic had the car on the rack so he could show me. The only damage I readily noticed was the radiators were crushed, a 2 1/2" square frame cross member had a 1 1/2" dent where it had impacted the island , and some panels- noticeably the front underside and driver side front wheel well were damaged. Later jeremy called me and told me the car was a total loss.he said the entire frame was bent out of shape. I couldn't believe it. In his report he itemized the parts but about the propulsion system he wrote, conditions exist that the electrical motors could start up the gas engine and flood the passenger compartment with co. Well if that's the case, why don't they simply replace the components that would lead to that condition or if it was inherent in the car, why doesn't the dot declare the car a road hazzard and recall all vehicles? Ln consumer reports they declared the volt scored 5 out of a possible 5 rating on collision survival. What? The car running at 15 MPH getting totalled by hitting a bump is a 5? I think mr. Jeremy is padding all his estimates and should have an independent appraiser review the car. Either he is lying or the car is actually a lemon. I would like your advice on what legal course I should take.
I've brought my 2013 chevy volt to the dealership 4 times because it dies suddenly while driving. It has put my family in danger multiple times. One of the "fixes" was a software update that ended up as a recall because it causes the engine to die suddenly (it's recall #n172130460, which came out two days before my latest incident, but I didn't receive the recall notice in the mail until 7/28/18...6 weeks after my last incident). The most recent time the car died (6/16/18), I was on a mountain highway and I was lucky enough to not get hit as I pulled the car to the side. There was no signage there except for the "caution bear xing" sign. After towing my car to the nearest dealership (in carson city, nv, an 8 hour ordeal), I had expenses for lodging and transportation (including lyft to south lake tahoe to rent a car because no rental car offices open on sunday in carson city, then flying to reno and taking a lyft to carson city to pick up the car because chevy refused to ship the car to me even though I said that I was afraid and didn't trust the car in the mountains). Chevy customer service and concierge services refused to reimburse me because I had the car towed myself instead of calling their "concierge service" to tow it because that's "policy." how about the safety of their customers so that they may live to drive another day? I'm not asking for anything more than the expenses incurred from the last adventure: $1040.72, which I can itemize. Other times that my car has died include: while making a u-turn in a busy intersection (in 2016), it died and started back up as if nothing happened 20 minutes later and a separate time was when the car wouldn't start at all but then started up again two hours later as if there was never an issue.every time this happened, I had a "power propulsion reduced" warning on my dashboard. I see online that many have had this issue.
While driving on the road, my hand pressed against the gear shifter and it shifted from l to d without pressing the gear release.
While driving down a road in indianapolis at 35 miles per hour, my car suddenly slowed down and a message reading " engine not available - service soon" appeared on my hud. My car only has 32,800 miles on it and a clean title. Nothing about my driving changed to cause this issue, it was sudden and without apparent cause. I had the car taken to the mechanic, and gm just reset the codes. It is driving ok for now, but a reset of codes is a temporary fix to the issue, and I've read extensively about many, many other volt owners with the same issue. It is extremely dangerous to have your engine shut off while driving, especially if I had been on the high way during rush hour. This is something that needs looked into, and I feel that gm is trying to bury it with resets which aren't working for most people.
While driving at 40mph on a straight road, I went to change the drive mode, but I accidentally hit the power button. When I hit the power bottom the car shut down. I was not able to restart the car while the shift lever was in drive, so I had to coast to a stop, place the vehicle in park, and reboot the car. I was very surprised that I was able to power off the car while I was driving around 40-45 MPH.
While entering in the highway the car started to decelerate regardless the fact the gas pedal was pushed several times. The car decelerated and then stalled. The car has been rear ended by the car behind. This could have been a much more serious accident and it was a vehicle failure.
A warning message appeared on the dash, which said "propulsion power is reduced," followed by, "engine not available. Service soon," as well as a check engine light. I pressed the onstar button to find out what was wrong but they had never heard of the error message and could not establish communication with the vehicle to perform diagnostics. While on hold with onstar, the vehicle began to spontaneously decelerate very rapidly despite my attempts to accelerate, in the middle of fast highway traffic. I made it over to the side of the road safely, limping along at 3-10 MPH, with the help of a good samaritan who blocked traffic for me. This is a spontaneous occurrence, with no maintenance negligence to explain the event. The car was towed to a dealer, which has yet to determine the source of the issue.
Was entering highway in the dark and went to put the car into "hold" mode to run the gas engine and save battery charge. This requires pushing a button 3 times. I reached over and pushed the button. Accidently was pushing the "power" button which is right below the "mode" button shutting down the car. The entire car shuts off, no lights, powertrain, ps, pb just dead. This is easy to do if you are watching the road and just glance down to the buttons. They are placed too close together and this is going to be a serious problem if in traffic or on winding roads. Numerous reports of this on the volt forum!
When in low gear (higher regenerative braking), when braking and going over some bumps, the regen braking stops causing a feeling of a lurch forward. A 'low traction" light appears. This causes a reduction in braking force of approximately 35bhp, a very unsafe condition. An anti-lock brake style pulsation of the regen should be employed, not a discontinuation of the regen brakes.
My chevy volt was at a car wash and the attendant was able to turn the car off while still in "d" gear. The car is able to roll and move while in this gear. I was surprised so I tested it for myself, and sure enough you're able to turn the power off and exit the vehicle while still in 'd'. Every car I've owned (automatic) forces you to shift into p or n before allowing the key to remove. This is a great concern for me, so I called my volt advisor today and was informed that other customers rolled into their garage, and the behavior was by design and normal.
This is the second volt I owned in a year that exhibited this issue. Upon braking and passive deceleration the car makes a loud audible whining noise coming from the engine compartment. The dealer states it is a regenerative brake bearing failure. This issue is related to the bearing cage failing causing the bearing to lose its integrity. Http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?17877-loud-whining-during-regen.
I leased a new 2013 volt on friday and drove it to work and home on monday. The battery display showed it was at minimum, zero miles remaining. The volt was running with the internal combustion engine. As I pulled out of a parking lot, "'propulsion power is reduced"', "'engine not available"', and "service stabilitrac" displayed on the driver information center. After going about 500 feet, I stopped at an intersection to make a left turn and the volt stalled. I turned on the flashers and attempted to restore power by pressing the brake and the power button. The displays lit up but the instrument cluster continued to display "'initializing-wait to shift"'. I turned the volt off by pressing the power button again and attempted to restore power several times with the same result. Cars behind me were attempting to pull around on the left side but were blocked by cars turning onto the two-lane street. I pushed the on-star button and requested assistance. Soon, a volt specialist came on the line and said she suspected the security system or the 12v battery. She had me turn everything off and walk 200 feet from the car. When I returned and tried to start the volt, it started briefly but shut down. She said the 12v battery might be low and they would have the tow truck driver bring booster cables to charge the battery. I had managed to push the volt to the curb and got some cables to boost it. The volt initialized and the displays looked normal. I drove to the next intersection and stopped for the light. When the light changed, it stalled again. I was able to continue to my house on battery power but it would not go up the slope of the driveway. I tried to charge it but the charge cycle would not start. The next morning, it had "'plug in to charge" light on. I started the charge cycle. It goes to the dealer tonight.
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