Around 79k miles the car began hesitating and rough idling. From the OBDII sensor: Error Code P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire detected
2017 Chrysler Pacifica electrical complaints
Page 6 of 14: complaints 131 to 160 of 397, newest first, as owners wrote them.
I was driving my van and the dash board turns on and off several times. It starts to light all lights while I'm driving. It was a scary situation while im driving my vans brakes while I'm in the freeway. This has happened several times. I also had my vehicle not turn on at all It stays locked and the dash boards says come error code. My vehicle jerks randomly and feels its gonna shut off. Had to tow the car to the dealer, no problem found. On another occasion my transmission was defective and it was changed. . It's has been taken to the dealer several times and I continue to have electrical issues and mechanical issues. I contacted the manufacturer and asked to do a buy back. The company refused and I explained all the issues that I have on my van and no resolution was made.
Intermittently the van when turned on has all error lights come on and will not shift into reverse. The sliding door will not close or open. Then the engine will loose power when finally getting the van to start and drive. All error lights go off after the van runs for a little while.
My car was stalling out during the automatic on off system. It had completely died on me in the middle of the road and I had to have it towed to a dealership. They spent a week fixing it. The day after I got it back it died again. I dropped it off and its been 3 days and no word on why this is happening. I picked it up on the 3rd and it died on the 4th. I dropped it off on the 6th at 8Am. Its still currently in the shop 10:40 pm on Wednesday.
The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated that while her husband was driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle stalled at an intersection. The vehicle was able to be restarted. While the contact was driving, the vehicle lost motive power and stalled. There were no warning lights illuminated. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and informed the contact that the vehicle was not covered under warranty. The contact stated that the failure was related to the federal safety agency Campaign Number: 18V049000 (Electrical System, Engine and Engine Cooling). The failure mileage was 50,000.
P3 Misfire resulting in replacing coil packs, spark plugs, and head gasket. We are moving toward head or engine replacement like so many other people are but nobody is listening. Please help. Also, have a transmission that sometimes feels like you left a piece of the car after you leave from a stop.
I was driving and my car went in to on/off system and didnt turn back on. Got my car into park and it still would not turn on. I couldn't even get my car into neutral. The check engine light came on but my engine was not making any noise. It said it was on but was not actually on. This has happened a few times in the past couple weeks but the car always turned back on when put in park and started. When I called the dealership they would not be able to get me in till February 7th. That would have been 3 weeks waiting. So I called another one and I got an appointment for the following week ( date of appointment 1/26/23). I have documented these incidents on here. I saw yesterday that there is a recall on my car for this happening but my vin numberis not included on it. This was so unsafe for me and my children. Cars die while driving yes, but the fact that I couldn't even get it into neutral to get it pushed out of the middle of the road. It was a very busy road and it was morning traffic. I dont even feel safe in this car anymore.
Vehicle unexpectedly bucks and jerks when accelerating either from a complete stop or just keeping speed. This happens with no brake warning lights to those around you. It is a common issue experienced by many 2017 Pacifica van owners and has nearly caused an accident many times. Especially when trying to merge onto highways because the vehicle unexpectedly slows and bucks like your riding a bull and it is trying to throw you off. There is no way to predict exactly when this will happen in order to avoid a potential accident. Chrysler knows about the issue but refuses to acknowledge it.
Unknown. Electronic sliding doors open from the outside when vehicle is locked and no key present. Creates a safety issue as anyone can approach the vehicle and open the door. Vehicle alarm will sound, however doors still open. Issues have occurred multiple times, date listed is most recent occurrence.
when driving on highways with cruise on for a amount of time. when turn off and when getting off the road. will stop at light and when you start to drive the van will act like it running out of gas will jerk and stop but will still be running almost been hit many times. talked to dealership they cant rep it doing it. No we are getting shifter need service and check engine light when driving and the dash will get light all over it windows will go down when I don't put them down parking break will light up and slow the van down and a big drag on the van .been to dealership 2 time still cant see when I get it. We have now put 2 new batters in the van went in with 12.6 volt next morning down to 12.46 volts. only have 79,000 mile on it.
I was driving my children to school and my car went into on off mode while ideling. When I tried to press the gass is did not go anywhere. I had to put it in park and then restart the car to continue driving. This is happening just like the 2018 recall on my car.
05JAN and 07JAN 2023, similar instances of significant vehicle systems malfunctioning which affected operability/safety. Both times, the vehicle operated without issue earlier in the day. Occurred at 11:30pm on 05JAN2023 while being driven and at 5:30pm on 07JAN2023 upon starting the van. On 07JAN, the van had difficulty starting when the start button was pressed. After more attempts to start, it eventually did. Both times the dashboard had multiple warnings: Check Engine, Stability Control, Airbag Warning, and Electric Park Brake Trouble. Worded messages also displayed regarding transmission and gear positions trouble. While operating, the "D" above the digital speedometer would regularly change to "--" and back to "D," accompanied by an audible tone. The red "BRAKE" light would quickly blink once every 2-3 minutes. Van would accelerated very slowly from low speeds or stopped position, would jolt forward or back aggressively, and could not overcome a moderate grade incline from being stopped. The odometer jumped quickly between 1k-4k rpm, but the engine did not appear to actually do so. When stopped and switching from D to R, reverse functioned similar to being in Neutral. The blue shifter gear knob lights would also blink. When turned off and back on, R would engage faster than normal. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request Driven with 3 family members in the vehicle when the malfunction occurred. My spouse verbally stated that she did not feel safe. With extreme caution, operated the van back home and chose lower speed roads. Would be hazardous to operate in a parking area or near pedestrians. The Airbag malfunction was also very concerning, especially with regard to the jerking movement of the van when accelerating. The problem has reproduced, but not confirmed by a third party. The component has not been inspected by a third party. No other warning lights we illuminated. Codes found: U1110, U1120, U11BC, P0440, P456.
Voltmeter is fluctuating between 10-15 volts. The windows will go down by themselves while driving, slow to start, and the dash lights/radio control screen takes several minutes to come on, and the auto sliding doors fail to operate occasionally. Several times the vehicle will lose Excelleration when starting from a stop or turning, the last time nearly causing an accident. The vehicle is becoming unsafe to drive and I have seen several like complaints on this year model vehicle.
Transmission stalls, doesn’t change from park to, reverse neutral to drive correctly. If I put my vehicle into drive it will go backwards and vise versa not always but a lot and then al a sudden it will jerk and switch to correct gear. It doesn’t accelerate correctly.
While driving 10 mph the engine shut off/stalled locking the steering wheel. The dash read shift to park and the shift knob was flashing. The vehicle would not restart at first and took 3 tries before turning over.
I drive my daughter's van to transport my 3 years old autistic grandson to preschool and I have experienced several problems. 6 times the van died when I accelerated from a stopped position. Once I was turning onto a highway. The passenger-side sliding door opened while I was driving. The passenger front window has opened 2 different times. The lights on the dash go out while driving. The transmission will slam into another gear jerking you. The hatchback door on the back has closed on my daughter and her baby. She has 4 kids 5 and younger that she drives in this van. It scares me to drive it. She has taken it to 2 different places to get it looked at and they couldn't identify the problem. From what I have read this happens a lot with the van.
Im also contacting the department of transportation in this matter. I had a tune up at. 80,000 mile . Lots of misfires . Head gasket right head leaking. Cracks dripping inside cylinder. Leaking right head gasket.I have to keep refilling the coolant. Im seeing many recalls but when I put in my vin it shows none .
I was driving for about 10 minutes going 40mph when the car dinged, the accelerator stopped working and the steering wheel became stiff and almost impossible to move. The screen said “shift to P to start”. I was able to pull to steering wheel just enough to pull over, and barely missed being in an accident. I put the car in park turned it off and turned it back on and it started again. 1 week prior I took the car to the dealer because the transmission seemed to be jerky and then it wouldn’t start. I got it towed to the dealer and they couldn’t replicate the jerky-ness and said it was because they battery was low and it was a connection issue. I got a new battery and a week later the car shut off while I was driving!
The LED strip/portion of my driver-side headlight has stopped functioning. It is all inside a closed headlight unit. When starting the vehicle, the LED strip will pulse about 11 times quickly, then remain off. This has been an unsafe defect, because if I am in a lane that is for "Left Turn OR Keep Straight", a vehicle in the intersection across from me could look briefly, see my left LED strip out*, and assume I am turning left -- while in actuality I am keeping straight. This could lead to a head-on collision. *There are many newer vehicles where the LED strip temporarily turns off when that side's turn signal is flashing. Additionally, this can cause a small percentage of uneven brightness. I have not found a way to turn off the working LED Strip on the passenger side without turning ALL the headlights off. It is always on (and always uneven) whenever the vehicle is running. The cost of the repair was quoted by the dealership I bought the van at - an unavoidable $180 diagnostic fee, plus $1,300+ to replace the whole unit, with no other options given. Furthermore, the expensive, "comprehensive wrap" extended vehicle plan the Chrysler dealership sold me refuses to cover the defect. Lastly, the service technician at both Chrysler Dealerships' advise was to "just live with it". This is completely unjust and should be covered by Chrysler, as LEDs should certainly have thousands of working hours left past 5 years, let alone the short 3 years the factory warranty covers. There were no messages or warning signs before this defect was noticed, and there is no information on the defect provided by the manufacturer anywhere I have looked online or on the MOPAR website.
The new auxiliary battery is not working properly which is causing the start/stop component to not work and the light is illuminated on the dash. Also the car has issues with the Torque Converter Clutch and the crank shaft sensor which disrupts the vehicles performance. The vehicle slows down when trying to accelerate and then speeds back up when the transmission realizes it needs to shift gears. The car then jolts roughly after the gear shift while driving. Sometimes car will not start because the auxiliary battery does not have enough power. Also after shutting car off there will be soft banging noises coming from the middle of the dashboard which lasts for a few minutes.
My vehicle stalled without warning while driving. I lost power steering and everything shut down. I had to put it in park which wasn’t registering and shut off my vehicle and restart it for it to correct itself.
Auto Start/Stop function failed, at a red light the car engine auto stopped but when brake was released after the light turned green the car stalled and had to be turned off and back on. It restarted on the first try and the lane sense function turned off when the car restarted but no check engine lights came on. This was unsafe For the car to have to be turned off completely and restarted after a light had turned green and there was traffic waiting behind me. Thankfully the cars behind me were stopped but if someone had been just pulling up behind me and expected me to move forward when the light turned green they may not have stopped fast enough to prevent an accident, which could have put the safety of my children in the back seats at significant risk. On a separate occasion this happened at a stop sign as well with the auto stop function causing the car to not turn back on when the brake was released and the car had to be turned off and back on again. Months prior to either incident the auto stop/start engine light had been on for some time but after a regular service and software update at the dealership the light went off. More recently there have been several issues indicating electrical problems, like the touchscreen turning off and restarting while driving. May 31st 2022 both the main and auxiliary batteries failed and were replaced at the dealership and then Sep 24th 2022 the battery failed again, but was jumped off and worked until Oct. 1st when the battery failed and would not hold a charge again.
I took my vehicle in to have the computer reset as the recall fix required after my start/stop unavailable warning came up for the second time. First time I had to replace both batteries. About 6 months ago if that. Took it in with the check engine light having popped on saying it's a misfire. Then when we left the stop start failure was still lit up on the dash and there were more codes popping up including one for the shift module which is electronic.. so I believe the electronic system is causing the misfire. I don't even have 100,000 miles and my car is about 5 years old. (2017) We were traveling on a busy highway when the check engine light came on to start with and exited to turn around and head home when the van felt like it was getting sluggish and we luckily were not in the passing lane and were able to make it home safely.
UNKNOWN. Vehicle stalls out when attempting to start. If started vehicle can drive fine but when stopped at a light it stallls out from time to time requiring you to shut it completely off after putting it in park and restarting. At times it will fail to restart. There is no check engine light or anything for a shop to find the issue.
the rear vehicle camera stays on for 2 miuntes after the car changes gear from reverse to drive. It is distracting.
While idling and in park, entire electrical system failed. No dash lights. No hazard flashers. No dome lights. Start button unresponsive. Parking brake engaged. Attempt to jump had not effect. While undoing 500 amp positive battery terminal to replace battery, connection restored and vehicle behaved normally. Soon after while driving, dash went dark for less than a second but returned to normal and engine kept running. Moments later when came to stop to back into driveway, repeat complete electrical failure. I disconnected all positive battery terminals, cleaned with wire brush and applied terminal protective grease before reconnecting. Vehicle functioned normally. I had recently replaced the battery myself and I suspect subsequent corrosion in terminals caused loss of electrical continuity. At minimum, I recommend a service alert but had this occurred while I was driving on a highway, I would have had no control of the vehicle at all and likely would have been in a serious crash.
2017 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L First, multiple warning messages started pop up randomly with alarm sound. The speedometer started shaking. The shift gear was unable to change. The engine was unable to start at the parking lot. After dealer mechanic at Envision CDJR West Covina in California inspected, there was no log in obd2 record and they said that it seems communication was failed and returned the car without fixing. A month later, it started again and the engine had completely shut off at the middle of intersection. Called AAA and took the car to the same dealer. They said this time that the electric harness was short and the entire harness needs to be replaced with the latest superseded part which cost $1500. 2 weeks later, the same issue start again. Nothing had been fixed and the car will be towed to the dealer to inspect it tomorrow. I'm risking my life and very scare to drive this car. I really suspicious that this dealer has no ability to detect and fix the real cause of the issue. Please help.
The engine overheated due to a coolant leak and faulty head gaskets that need replaced at 62k miles. A related cyclinder 4 misfire has been occurring since 58k miles. Chrysler refuses to cover the repair under the 60k Powertrain warranty and does not acknowledge the many reports of head gaskets failing between 50-80k miles.
My sliding door came off the hinge and shatter my backwindow. The door was hesitating and would not close it stood stuck. When I pulled it the back window shattered. I have no warranty it's now an out of pocket expense. My airbag light is on when I took it to the dealership for a diagnostic they said I was missing a piece that I actually found and when I told them I found it they said it's damage and they can't do anything to help.
My Pacifica suddenly will not start. I ended up jump-starting the van. Then whenever I stopped, it needed a jump start. This whole ordeal is from a single day. Driving back on the high-way, suddenly van acted weird, all electronics going haywire, various instrument "unavailable" messages started coming, and on the highway Van all systems failed, power steering locked, I pulled over and battery icon (red) came on as well. Car died. I re-jump started it and then drove again with seeing the battery fluctuating between 10.2 v to 16v. Then when we exited the highway, this time, the van stalled right in the middle of the road. No warning, nothing. I feel this is a single point of failure that if the battery is having an issue, (though it seems alternator) was charging it, it could have caused two crashes. I am really concerned. I have had dead batteries in my other cars but nothing like that where all instruments start acting weird. Also few other weird things happening during this time: passenger windows will come down automatically again and again and again while driving. All different security features sporadically say unavailable, airbag, esc, ACC, FCW etc.. This needs to be looked at as a "Single Point of Failure" issue.
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