The hinges fail on driver and passengers side the door will not shut gets stuck wide open if force shut cause you have no tools to pry bottom hinge back in place it causes a huge dent in front fender... There are a huge amount of owners complaining of this issue online so I think it's a big flaw! I have since replaced mine with used one's and do expect to have to do it again due to the design of the hinges... If this happens to your door it will not close completely if you manage to get it to closing point because the door latch will no longer line up properly... Safety issues my door opened on me going down the road on my way home with it going around a corner...thank god I had my seat belt on... Some links to more complaints..http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caliber/284660-door-hinge-problem.html http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091111084343aaihadt http://caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=35636http://www.qfak.com/cars_transportation/maintenance_repair/?id=208841#.uxj4h38o4v4 and many more....
2007 Dodge Caliber body complaints
Page 6 of 6: complaints 131 to 158 of 158, newest first, as owners wrote them.
Upon hitting a small pothole, the subframe broke causing a loss of steering into oncoming traffic. Luckily there were no accidents. The tires now go two separate directions. After getting the vehicle towed to a repair shop, they discovered the subframe had rusted through due to the air compressor leaking directly onto the subframe. When having our insurance adjuster from state farm out to assess the damage it was determined it was manufacturer's defect and would not be covered. I then contacted dodge who stated that the perforation for rusting was 100,000 miles. Although the incident on the vehicle we are still paying for through an authorized dodge dealer happened on a vehicle that has exceeding the 100,000 miles by only 10,000 miles - we are now stuck with a car that's going to cost over $1,100 to fix due to a manufacturer's defect. This incident could've resulted in a fatality. Dodge needs to be held liable for this issue.
Noticed rusted subframe with big hole. We knew it needed to be replaced. No particular reason for the erosion other than the way the vehicle is designed. Vehicle is only 6-7 years old. This type of erosion is usually only seen on old vintage vehicles. A few days ago, we ran over a hidden pot hole and the subframe is completely broken apart. Now car is completely unsafe to drive. This car was poorly designed in this area. The company should recall the subframe to replace and install a rerouting piece for the AC to drip on and bypass dripping on the frame.
Went to get car inspected and the mechanic found our crossmember frame was rusted out. It is only 5 yrs old and has 63000 miles, unheard of. Next step contact dodge see what they can do to help us get this repaired, right now car is unsafe to drive.
My 2007 dodge caliber was taken to my mechanic where it was found that the main subframe had rusted through in multiple places. The car is only 6 years old and has approximately 76,150 miles. I called chrysler and mentioned it. Customer service stated that they would only provide cost assistance if I had the work done at a chrysler dealership. The car was taken apart and on the lift at my preferred mechanic. I had my mechanic provide the service. I did receive a quote from a local chrysler dealership it would have cost me $ 850.00. My mechanic did the service for $ 650.00. Chrysler has refused payment. This subframe components is rusted through in three locations. After only 6 years, this doesn't seem acceptable on a major front end component.
5 y/r car with completely rusted sub-frame which needs replaced.
When doing a brake job I noticed the front k member had a corrosion hole in the back of it, this is the front sub frame that holds the powertrain and front suspension.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber rt. The contact stated that the rear and front sub frames were completely corroded. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the technician diagnosed that the sub frames needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 61,000. Updated 01/14/14*lj the consumer stated the front and rear sub frame was severely rusted. The consumer has since traded the vehicle. Updated 01/16/14
I was slowing down to stop at an intersection and heard a thump on the bottom of the car. As I started to pull forward the steering was very difficult and the I heard a whining sound from the right front tire. I was about a mile from my repair shop so I had my brother follow me with his emergency flashers and drove slowly to the shop where I found out that the subframe was completely rotted through. In the last year, I have had to replace upper and lower control arms and the alternator.
While under my dodge I noticed that there is a large amount of rust. After further inspection I saw that they designed the AC condensation to drip directly onto the frame. This baffles me since all they had too do is design a tube to direct the water onto the ground. I am not sure exactly how this has effected the strength of the frame but from the amount of rust on the spot where the water drips I don't have a warm and fuzzy that the frame will last the life of the car or that the frame won't just snap while driving and cause an accident. Very unsafe practice and with such an easy fix don't understand it at all.
Sub frame rusted out.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that vehicle made a loud noise while driving at various speeds. The vehicle was taken to two independent mechanics for inspection. The failure was located at the sub frame, which was severely corroded and fractured. The contact was advised that the vehicle was unsafe to drive. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The VIN was not available. The failure and current mileage was 124,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for routine service and they detected the entire frame was completely rusted with numerous perforations. The manufacturer was not notified of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 58,000. Updated 4/1/13
My cars tie rods are going out, already happened once on one side and now its going out on the other, because I can feel it, this is a huge problem bc I am scared to drive my car because I have a four year old lil boy, I need this problem fixed before it falls apart and either of us die then there will be a lawsuit because my car only has 57,565 miles on it and shouldn't already going out on me, the first time they went out dodge did pay for it in full. But now it is going out on the other side so I am asking for help or for u to pay for it again since it is a defected part, thanks
Sub frame is rusted due to air conditioning hose running over subframe. Subframe holds engine in place.
The engine cradle will not pass pa safety inspection due to severe rust and holes in this portion of what could be also called the sub-frame. This is a very pre-mature failure and all caliber owners should be aware. Who would ever think to look at a potential frame failure in a 5 year old car? I had owned this car 1 day short of 5 years since brand new when this issue was discovered.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that when it rained, water would leak inside the vehicle and build up on the front passenger and driver sides. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer where the dealer advised that they had to run water on top of the vehicle to determine the origin of the leak. The contact was concerned that the water build-up could possibly lead to an electrical problem or engine damage. The failure mileage was 69,000. The VIN was not available.
My 2007 dodge caliber has a water leak that allows rain water to enter the vehicle. The used car dealer I bought it from (had it less than 1 year) said it was a gasket leak in the front fender. I don't know if this is right or not because the car's entire driver side floor board has yet to dry out. Vehicle constantly acts as though it is going to stall. This has happened in idle in traffic and when pushing on gas from stop. Sometimes the low pressure sensor oil light will flicker on and the car will start to jerk. Sometimes the vehicle just hesitates for a long time when switching gears. Dealer unable to duplicate this problem. Newest issue - when traveling at approx. 55 MPH on the highway, all doors mysteriously unlocked themselves. Very frustrating and inconvenient... Dealer does not offer rental or temporary car even though they have my brand new caliber that im paying for even while its in their possession. The dealer could not duplicate stalling/oil light issue and I took it to an independent mechanic had an oil change done and still did it. Took it back and he couldn't find anything either. Computer not reporting anything and no recalls.
2007 dodge caliber sxt leaks water into the front and rear floor boards on the passenger side whenever it rains. This seems to be a common problem with these vehicles and my dealer will not or cannot fix it.
I would like to report a defect with my 2007 dodge caiber.the inside handle on the drivers side door peeled away the outer layer. As I had my hand on the handle I cut myself. Since it wasn't under warranty any more I had to pay for a new handle. I didn't think it was right since I think it is a defect.
2007 dodge caliber, while driving today going to make a left hand turn with son in the back seat. The keychain holder you attach to any key got caught on the sterring wheel part and actually broke the key off while driving. It the gadgets shouldn't be positioned that way. Anyway the whole front end of the key is still in the steering wheel and it almost caused alot of cars to hit the car because after they key broke off and half stayed in the car it actually locked the wheel. We do not know what to do but I told my spouse not to touch it. We could have been seriously hurt or killed today. I no longer feel safe at all. I feel the wheel and the space they have from where the key is inserted and where they put other things is obviouslly unsafe. We are frustrated and afraid of getting back in the car when it is fixed. Also where do we go to get this fixed since this is not our fault? A steering wheel should never be designed where the parts are so close together that a simple string that is your key chain and short can get caught on the gadgets of the wheel. My son is only 4 please give us advice. When trying to get the wheel to move after it stopped our son was jerked and we are frustrated.
My 2007 caliber has leaking problems, it has been in the shop twice and still not fixed, also I just brought it in for a grinding noise, at 16,000 miles. The dealer 1st told me nothing is wrong come and get it, I did not get it I told them to keep it and drive it 1st thing in the morn. They did and heard the loud vibrating noise. They called me and told me it needed swaybar bushings and a new transmission. This caliber is junk. With each supposed repair for leaking they had my car for 2 weeks total. Also this time with the transmission it has be 3 days. I have to pay for a rental car each time. The power door locks make a weird loud noise at times when unlocking the doors. I do not feel safe with my 4 kids in the car with me. I need a safe vehicle.
1. Events leading up to the failure, accelerating from light making a left hand turn. 2. Failure and its consequences, bushing of gas pedal fell out and caused the engine to serge to 5,000 RPM, applied brakes and rate of acceleration slowed, had to turn engine off to bring vehicle to a stop. 3. What was done to correct the failure; service done by dealer, replaced gas pedal assembly [ 04891623ar 06068b3b 24936f 43595418901 lhd ] (old part is available).
My 2007 dodge caliber has an off idle hesitation when you start to pull a way from a stop light, the car also has a cracking/snapping sound coming from the lower right corner of the windshield when going over small bumps or cracks in the road this accrues at any speed the car also makes a rattling noise when it is first started and continues until the car warms up,this happens in warm or cool temperatures, also the rear door speakers are rattling and I do not listen to loud music the car has 7500 miles on it.
After owning my new car for a few days, I decided to roll the back windows down for my children. The car makes a horrible noise, like a helicopter directly overhead. It leaves you with a piercing pain in your ears and a headache. If you leave them down for more than a couple of seconds, you have a thump that last inside your ear for a couple of days. The road conditions don't seem to matter, it has to be in the design of the car.
Tl*-the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 40 MPH and the road conditions were dry. The contact heard a loud rumbling sound that was piercing to the ears. The sound was loud enough to give the contact a headache. The dealer test drove the vehicle and diagnosed a pressurization problem. This incident occurred when the rear windows were down and the front windows were up. The dealer advised her that the design of the vehicle may have something to do with the loud noise, and advised her, if the rear windows were down the front windows should also be down to eliminate the noise.
My 2007 dodge caliber has a water leak that allows rain water to enter the vehicle and the january 8th appointment will be the 4th time at the dealership for this same issue. Water seems to be entering somewhere in the front of the vehicle and settles under the passenger seat. While "repairing the leak" the first time, the vehicle was returned to me smelling like cigarette smoke, the second time, the trim above the passenger side door was not properly replaced, the third time, a panel underneath the dash on the passenger side fell off (apparently was not replaced properly), they glued the rubber stripping on the passenger side door panel making it impossible to remove my satellite radio antenna and the trim above the passenger side door is still not in place correctly (seems to have been forced into place). Also, the person working on my vehicle said he guaranteed that it was fixed after the 3rd time, but it wasn't. Vehicle constantly acts as though it is going to stall when idle and also when accelerating from a stop - when accelerating, vehicle hesitates. Dealer unable to duplicate this problem. Newest issue - when traveling at approx. 55 MPH on the highway, all doors mysteriously unlocked themselves. Very frustrating and inconvenient... Dealer does not offer rental or temporary car even though they have my brand new caliber that I'm paying for even while it's in their possession. This is the second dodge vehicle in a row that we've had problems with - 1st was a 2004 dodge ram 1500 with stalling issues that the dealer could not duplicate.
Dt*: the contact stated while driving 60mph on the highway, the manufactured floor brackets that hold the floor mat became entangled on the contact's shoelace. This occurred because the vehicle did not come equipped with floor mats. The manufacturer was alerted.
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