I bought a 2007 dodge caliber from a young man come to find out he only paid $325 off of a car lot he has a dealers license and he was the only owner before me and did not tell me about the struts, there was a recall on them also has bad sensors ( gas, engine coolant and PCM internal sensors) sold the car knowingly and did not get the recalls done when needed I need something done I have five children and one grandchild who are at risk me driving and having a wreck. I do not have a document about my struts but I have had it looked at by several mechanics
2007 Dodge Caliber transmission complaints
Page 2 of 4: complaints 11 to 40 of 80, newest first, as owners wrote them.
The transmission on the calibers overheat. This causes mechanical problems that could cause accidents, injury or death.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 70 MPH, the vehicle went into limp mode without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the transmission control module lost communication with the engine control module and powertrain control module. Also, the output shaft speed sensor was disconnected. Fletcher chrysler dodge jeep ram (3099 n morton st., franklin, in, (317) 738-4170) was made aware of the failure, but the vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the failure was intermittent. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 178,772.
"takata recall" while driving the 2007 dodge caliber, it suddenly jerks and down shifts and rpms seem to sky rocket, the lightning bolt symbol illuminates and it drops speed and will not accelerate over 30 MPH max, it tends to do this on hills or after you have to brake slightly for any reason and then accelerate again to maintain speed or to get up a hill. No matter how much you take it easy on the acceleration or how hard you push it, it doesn't help after it goes into this slow mode. The only way to get the vehicle to operate normal again is to pull off the road, put it in park, turn it off and then wait and restart it again, some times it has taken up to 5 times or trying to restart it before it finally restarts. This vehicle carries children in it every day, and it has became very unsafe to operate, having a great chance of being rearended or hit by another vehicle in the side due to loss of power unexpectedly
Wont accelerate properly. Wont go go over 30 MPH sometimes. No power.
I heard a rumbling noise under the car took it to dealer and they said it wasn't safe to drive. Told me my whole rear end was rusted out and I paid $1600 for repairs. Now my car made a noise while my tires were going took it shop they said see a dealer on the way there my car stopped going forward. Good thing I wasn't on the highway. I could back into a parking space semi safely. Both problems in 3 months and my warranty is no more on my transmission.
While driving auto stops being able to accelerate. Have to coast to side and stop. Throttle control light comes on. Usually after little while can turn back on and go. I also have chrysler sebring 2008 tjat does same thing even after. Multiple trips to dodge service. Read where this is a biv problem ma ny are having but dodge/chrysler still doing nothing to repair. Dangerous I was on freeway going 65 mp and almost hit ny four cars. Happens more at fast speeds.
Car won't run for more than an hour without overheating transmission oil (transmission light went on). I was driving on the highway when I noticed a lack of speed. Pressing on the accelerator didn't help. I was able to pull over slowly, but safely. The car went to a complete stop. Waited over an hour for the tow truck to arrive. Later I discovered that you have to wait about half an hour, and the car starts normal. Worst car I ever bought. Apparently not all dodge caliber vehicles share the same problem, but I checked on the web and it is a consistent problem with other models that share the same transmission.
Takata recall- my air bag light stays on all the time, also I had to replace the electronic control module, it was completely full of corrosion. All of the front and back suspention had to be replaced, all control arms upper and lower, struts, the whole thing. The transmission will not shift properly, causing the engine to stall. I have had the suspention fixed, and the electrical replaced. The transmission fluid changed but mechanic could not find out what the problem is. It does not shift properly when on highway driving, and will not down shift when stopping, car stalls out. The electrical module would not put out enough power to run the lights, wipers, fan or radio. This car is a real piece of crap, dodge should be ashamed of themselves for even putting it on the market. We want action, for what we paid for this junk.
Car goes in to limp mode do to transmission over temp when driving on the freeway
My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes p2006, p1607, p0722, p0717. I changed all codes except p1607 because they were cheaper. The PCM runs 299.00 or more and I cannot afford that. My vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. After changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. I cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if I need to re program the PCM? Where can I get this done? The nearest dodge dealer is in crossville, tn, a 45 minute drive and I am scared to drive this thing. I swear, I wish I never would have bought it, worst car ever. Please help me get this running right again, I am still paying for it. It has been parked since march 2016.
I purchased a used 2007 dodge caliber for $4500as is, drove it 3 miles from place of purchase when the check engine light came on. I took it to a mechanic who ran the code and informed me the transmission needed serviced. I paid $358. To service it and was told that the light would go out on its own after a few cycles. Light went out only to come back on with in the month while driving on the highway and losing all power and transmission temp light coming on. Took car back and was told it would be $4000. More to replace transmission. Cvts are junk and need recalled!!!!!!
Whenever the vehicle attempts to accelerate it begins jerking and shaking. Won't shift properly. It had done before, after I had owned the vehicle for 4 years. At that time the transmission had to be replaced. It is now another 4 years later I am going through the same thing and the dealership says I need another transmission.
Highway driving at 55 MPH, tachometer suddenly went up to 4000 RPM and vehicle started to slow down and stop. No reaction from the gear selector. No more movement front or back. Call aaa and tow to garage. Informed that CVT transmission was the problem and no repair was possible. Only option was a used transmission. Car is now awaiting that repair. Also seems to be a gas pedal issue. Not sure at this point as vehicle is unopperable.
Driving on the highway at 70 MPH and car transmission temperature light came on and the power to the car declined to a coast and I had to try and pull to the shoulder in heavy traffic with snow on the road which almost caused me to get hit by other vehicles going the speed of 70 MPH. This has happened numerous times I have taken it in to the dealer whom recommended that I have the transmission service done by the dealer which I paid for and complied to have performed. It continued to happen and still looses power going highway speed of 65. I have taken it to the dealer over and over and they deny any liability and say everything is ok. I have the lifetime powertrain warranty on the vehicle. I am going to end up dead thanks to a faulty transmission in the car. It has never towed anything so no stress is ever applied to the transmission. Now I am pissed because my wife was almost hit when she was driving it on the highway during rush hour and it reduced power on her. I have paperwork showing the dealer checking it and saying it is ok not to mention the numerous times I have gone in and they say they have heard nothing regarding problems with the caliber. If you look on line there are plenty of us citizens that are plaqued with this same problem.......updated 12/03/15 *bf updated 11/13/2017
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 70 MPH, the vehicle decelerated and the linn bolt warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the electronic control, the power train activator, and the actuator control system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 171,570.
The light of temperature for transmission went on and the car start running slowly I stopped for 15 minutes and the car start running fine but when I took the high for more the 30 minutes do the same every time.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While in park, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and then to a dealer who were unable to diagnose or repair the vehicle. In addition, three weeks later while driving at 45 MPH, the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle. The oil pressure warning light illuminated as the accelerator pedal was depressed but the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
I had 62,000 miles a year ago. I was driving on a 3 lane highway though town in the center lane and all of the sudden my car lost power and I worked my way over to the right hand lane, thank goodness that there was a shopping center parking lot there so I coasted in and found a mechanic to work on my car and he replaced my throttle body, but it cost me $600 out of pocket. Now a year later with only driving my car 10,000 miles more I am noticing hesitation in the transmission which I recognizing from year ago and I am amazed there still no recall on this problem.
Vehicle was involved in frontal collision with run off tire from a trailer being pulled by a pickup truck. Frontal driver side received damage to electrical wiring harness which shut down onboard computer system. Upon impact the vehicle seized operation and shut down air bag deployment. Steering control was lost due to half shaft joint was sheered apart.
When I am driving on the freeway for any distance over 30 miles and the temperature is over 70 degrees outside, the trans oil temp signal comes on and I loss all power to the transmission. This can be a serious issue, because this happen on the freeway / highway. It is a continuous problem. When I initially took it to the dealership, I was told that since they couldn't recreate it, they couldn't fix it. This problem has caused me to limit trips or borrow / rent a car to go anywhere of any distance. I have had this issue for over two years, but didn't realize how many other dodge caliber owners were experiencing the same issue until recently.
Driving on interstate 55 back to peoria,il . Car interior and dash lights flashing and surging. Smelt something burning. Car died, lucky got to shoulder of freeway. Had it towed from pontiac, il. To firestone in peoria,il. *tr diagnosis, hole in A/C compressor (possible pistons blew through casing), shorted starter, fried battery
I was driving my car on I-10 and the car suddenly jerked and slowed down despite my foot still being on the gas pedal, the car began to shake and then the engine stopped on the middle of the road. I coasted to the median, and waited for 3-4 minutes, (mostly to catch my breath as I was lucky I was not run over by semi's) I restarted the MPH was the norm) I had to put on my hazard lights and drive to the next exit. The mechanic said the control board for the crankshaft was blown and needed to be replaced. Seems like a very dangerous situation for other drivers and owners of a dodge caliber if it is a common defect. 07dodcaliber/pc684 dodge crankshaft position sensor.
Car will randomly start shaking like there is barely any power. I have had to replace the alternator twice. Numerous throttle issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. Now the air bag light in the cluster constantly turns off and on and beeps while the car is shaking.
Car started making loud grinding noise under hood while accelerating during regular driving. Had independent mechanic diagnose noise. Was advised gear inside transmission 'broken' transmission will have to be replaced, cannot be fixed. Caliber has CVT transmission which had widespread/known issues. The transmission should at least last the life of a car loan when the car us purchased fairly new. Dodge refuses to take ownership of problem although it is documented all over internet including youtube . If other manufacturers are assisting in repairing/replacing these transmissions, why can't dodge. I am also interested to know of any class action suits to join based on other known issues, some I have fixed, some I hope I can get rid of the car before I encounter. Dodge marketed this car knowing of the faulty issues...isn't that criminal?
When doing a brake job I noticed the front k member had a corrosion hole in the back of it, this is the front sub frame that holds the powertrain and front suspension.
I went to get my oil changed an the oil change person said he could not change my oil because the oil pan is rotting out from rust an there's another pan there that looks bad to I guessing must be transmission cover,I have never in my life heard of a oil pan rusting out .the car is like new,what do I do.
I just bought this car from the dealer about 6 months ago. I was driving and then went over a bump and my engine light came on. I was so worried why that had happened so I went to an auto zone to get the engine light checked and he told me nothing is coming up on the computer so it should turn off. So then it did turn off but then last week my car started acting weird and the engine light kept coming back on and going off. When the engine light would come on sometimes even the ABS light and temperature light at the same time. One time I was even driving on the expressway and going 55 and the car suddenly slowed down and would barely move while I was on the expressway I could have got hit!! I brought it to a different dodge dealer then I had purchased it from to get an opinion and found out it was the totally integrated power train control module. This part is $700 and I do not have the money to pay for this. This is so upsetting because I just got the car. I started doing my research on the internet and have seen my exact car has had so many recalls and seen many people have had the exact same problem on the totally integrated power train control module. The dodge dealer service assistant told me he has had to put these in many calibers and think there is something wrong with them from the factory. I am beginning for your help for myself and everyone with this car that has had or is going to get this problem because it is extremely expensive and dangerous.
Driving down the highway, all of my dash lights came on-battery, fuel, temp, etc. Car lost speed and became sluggish. Lost power steering and pulled over. Car immediately died and would not go into park. Locked up completely. After about 30 mins, it started back up and ran for pax 3 blocks before doing it again. Had it towed. Replaced the alternator, then 3 weeks later same issues. Replaced the battery. Did not fix it. Now told its a common issue for the dodge caliber and is the control module which is a 1000 dollar part plus labor. And that dodge is aware of the issue and has not recalled them. I do not feel I should be stuck with the costs of a major repair that is a design flaw from the manufacturer that they have been aware of for years and is obviously a hazard when it shuts down immediately while driving with no warning. My two young children and 84 year old grand mother were with me in 100 degree weather on the side of the highway for hours while waiting on a tow and a family member to come get us since we couldn't ride in the tow truck. After reading forums online, hundreds if not thousands of caliber owners have had the same issue. Some had cars that were only two weeks old! I would like to request an investigation and hopefully a recall happen.
Tl* the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that after the vehicle approached a stop sign, the accelerator pedal had to be depressed numerous times to increase speed. The vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified on the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 94,000.
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