2005 Ford Escape: grinding or squealing brakes

Filed Dec 29, 2018 · Body, Suspension · 80,000 miles · PA

The escape started making a squeaking noise for about 3 days while driving it on city streets and on the highway and then it started making a loud clunking noise and was banging like something broke loose. We thought the shocks broke. Upon closer inspection we noticed that the frame at the right rear wheel well had completely rusted out and the shock had came off because there was nothing for it to attach to. We have the car parked because it is too dangerous to drive. It only has approximately 80,000 miles. Our daughter had just purchased it in may 2017 from a local car dealer. I have researched but there was no recall on this and there very many complaints about the same issues with different year escapes.

Filed Jul 31, 2017 · Body, Seats · IN

Rust caused the separation of the lower control arm from the subframe of the vehicle. The vehicle was primarily used in a salt-belt state. The issue became evident after a small pothole caused the rear frame to puncture through the passenger rear wheelhouse into the cab of the vehicle causing a high-pitched squeal and steering difficulties..

Filed Feb 11, 2015 · Acceleration, Driver assistance · 155,900 miles · MO

As soon as I hit about 60 MPH, between 2-3 RPM, my car begins to stall and feels like the gas pedal is grinding and won't let me go any faster without vibrating the entire vehicle. I initially thought it was the transmission slipping so I took it in to a transmission auto shop where the found absolutely nothing. Which is very odd for an auto shop to not find anything. About 1 week after this problem, the service emission light came on. I was driving home from work the day the light came on and the car completely stopped on the highway, in rush hour traffic. Thankfully I was close to the side of the highway and was able to pull over. I got to the side and put my car into park, turned the engine off, and waited a couple of minutes to allow my heart rate to come back down to a normal pace. I turned the key and the engine turned back on. I drove it into an auto shop to see what the issue was, and the reader showed cylinder 2 misfire. The first possible fix was to replace the coil on plug, which is what I did. I got home today and am still experiencing this scary feeling of my car not being able to excel above 60. I read many reviews this evening and so many people have experienced very similar issues. This is not safe and people are at serious risk or getting injured and/or in an accident. The average cost to fix the issue - reported by many users on http://www.carcomplaints.com/ford/escape/2005/electrical/computer_pcm_failure.shtml, is $2000. When you have a 2005 car of any kind, $2000 seems very high to fix when the car is 10 years old. Please investigate this issue further as this is unacceptable that ford has yet to recall this issue.

Filed Jul 5, 2014 · Suspension · 73,700 miles · WA

I just purchased this 2005 ford escape at the end of may 2014 with only 73333 miles on it and it was running great. Then a month later I started hearing a loud bang under the rear passenger seat area after going over a few normal little bumps in the residential streets.(like cracks or sewer lid) I check it out there was some excessive rust in the wheel well area. I drove it for another week with this annoying sound then it got worse making loose clanking and squeaking noise constantly with the banging noise. I searched under the vehicle and in the wheel well, it's completely rusted through. The shock/strut? Are mounted to nothing but crumbling rust. It is just free from the wheel well now. I can't even drive it. From the other complaints I can see this will not be an easy fix nor does ford company recognize this is a faulty issue with this vehicle and should take responsibility for the early corrosion in the wheel well areas with this vehicle.

Filed Jan 7, 2014 · Acceleration, Fuel system · 100,000 miles · GA

I have experienced several cases over the years with the 2005 ford escape seeming to idle very-very low and when attempting to accelerate (for instance from a stop sign) the acceleration is very very slow and then ramps up after a few seconds.this occurs intermittently but regularly and despite taking it to several repair shops, none have managed to provide a reasonable explanation but have all recognized it. Recently I have noticed issues, especially at highways speeds, of the vehicle "shuddering" as if the brakes are having trouble slowing the vehicle which im concerned may be from the throttle not disengaging properly when released (almost like its stuck or frozen). We have recently in my region of the country been experiencing a few cold snaps and that brings me to the most recent issue. When attempting to use the vehicle today, I noticed that the accelerator seemed "stuck" or frozen. I depressed it a few times, no luck as it seemed "frozen". I took it to mean that the cold (it got down below 15* f. In georgia) and let it run for a bit to warm. I pushed accelerator and it seemed unstuck. I put in reverse and attempted to accelerate backwards. I found the pedal would not come off the floorboard. I stopped the vehicle and after looking at the pedal, I was able to move it freely and looking at the connection I thought it had broken or became disconnected. I came back from work after getting ride from wife and went to inspect it. The pedal this time acted as expected although I could hear squeaking and it thumped when I hit the brakes. It seems that the cod had frozen something or exacerbated whatever was causing issues in general. I called ford and they mentioned something had been done in 06 and then I read article about 17 year old who died after her escape throttle became stuck in a similar way after having a recent repair.

Filed Nov 1, 2013 · Brakes · 105,852 miles · CT

Abs light came on. 4wd light started blinking. There was a grinding noise coming from the wheel/brake area of the vehicle. The ABS light remained on but the 4wd flashed and then turned off. It came back on intermittently and flashed several times. There seemed to be no functional problems with the brakes or wheels.

Filed Aug 7, 2013 · Engine, Transmission · 81,000 miles · ME

Driving 55 MPH on highway, car sounded like it downshifted into much lower gear (very loud) with jerky motion, immediately lost power, was climbing large hill, coasted to side of road in heavy traffic, lost power steering, made horrific grinding sound, and then stopped. Idled for 30-45 seconds, all dashlights came on before dying on highway. I have reviewed carcomplaints.com on this model escape, they are notorious for PCM computer going with no notice. My mechanic informs me today that is the problem, cost for repair is about $2,000.00, not covered by the extended warranty I purchased. This is a well documented issue that clearly creates safety issues when driving at high rates of speed, with no warning. The car was "fine" by all other accounts, this happened out of no where.

Filed Jan 13, 2013 · Brakes · 90,000 miles · IA

In aug 2012 we were on our way back from a vacation and our ABS light came on, along with a flashing 4x4 light. We had no idea what it was or what to do. The vehicle drove fine and stopped fine, except for a couple of times it felt as if the ABS engaged on dry cement. We stopped to eat and shop for a few hours and the lights were off when we got back in the vehicle. They didn't come on again until a few days ago (jan 2013). However, I had been complaining to my husband recently that the brakes didn't seem to work right. I hit ice and the ABS didn't engage ..no light either..but the grinding sound once in awhile was still there. So we took it in and put it on the computer to diagnose the problem. Came back with 2 codes u2023 and c1234. Which means the right front tone ring is bad. After searching the internet, I found this to be a very common problem. Also got under the truck and sure enough the tone ring is cracked and spinning around loosely. The safety issue here is the ABS will lock up randomly on dry cement when you start to apply your brakes. Which then you can't completely control your vehicles direction and if you take your foot off the break to control your vehicle, then you may hit someone or something. I am thankful for all the info I have found so when it gets repaired they can't screw me over.

Filed Jan 2, 2013 · Electrical, Engine · 160,000 miles · KS

After luckily just exiting interstate 70, but entering highway 40 my vehicle completely died with all electrical functions inoperative (obviously including power brakes, steering, etc). This occurred on an upgrade with a city bus directly behind me which was forced to swerve into the adjacent lane. Auto would not restart and it was towed to a neighboring ford dealership. There was absolutely no warning of a check engine light etc. At the dealership I was informed that an "electrical engine module" had burned out which also completely fried all the engine coils. (a complete electrical tune-up,etc. Had been performed about a year earlier). I was also informed that the diagnosis was possible because of a ford internal memo indicating what could happen if the module malfunctioned. The good news is that I had just exited an interstate, but this could have been disastrous and it seems that ford was aware of the possibility of this problem. The cost now to fix the problem is $2600 and I have no assurance that this couldn't happen again with more severe squealed.

Filed Jul 30, 2012 · Suspension · 30,167 miles · AL

Tl* the contact owns a 2005 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 60 MPH, she heard a grinding noise coming from the wheels. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that the front driver's wheel bearing needed to be replaced. The vehicle was in the process of being repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 30,167.

Filed Aug 31, 2011 · Steering, Suspension · 47,000 miles · OH

Loud squeaky noise from right front end. Took to mechanic. They say both front grease boots are cracked which allows dirt, dust, etc. To get in and up around the ball joints and tie rod assemblies. The right front ball joint had gone bad due to this boot crack so we had to replace it. They recommend replacing both tie rods, boots and ball joints, but we could only afford to replace the ball joint that was bad at this time because we just spent $3350 putting a new transmission in the car. This vehicle has less than 50,000 miles on it. Unbelievable!!!! What is ford building these cars with??? I suspect the cheapest parts they can get regardless of their quality so they can make more money. In the meantime the average working family has to pay twice for a vehicle's parts that should not go bad so quickly.

Filed Aug 11, 2011 · Transmission · 47,000 miles · OH

Complete transmission failure on 2005 ford escape. There was no prior warning. While driving is normal traffic at 35 miles per hour the car started lurching, jumping and making all kinds of awful metallic grinding sounds. Vehicle came to a complete stop and would not move forward or in reverse. I tried again a few minutes later and was able to move the vehicle in jumps and jerks around a corner to get it off of a main street. Transmission repair guy said it is a complete failure. I have pictures of the broken parts. This vehicle has less than 50,000 miles on it. We still owe $10,000 on it and are now told that it will cost $3350.00 for a new transmission. Of course ford isn't willing to help with this cost even though it is obvious to anyone researching it that ford is aware of the faulty transmissions they are using. By the way this vehicle was maintained with regularly scheduled maintenance and I have the records to prove it.