For 2 1/2 months, every time I pump gas, I couldn't get the car to start without revving the engine. I took it to the Ford service center, and they informed me that it's the Canister Purge Valve that needed to be replaced. They also mentioned that they have seen a lot of cars with the same issue.
2016 Ford Fusion fuel system complaints
Page 2 of 4: complaints 11 to 40 of 92, newest first, as owners wrote them.
The canister purge valve in this vehicle repeatedly goes bad. I had a 2015 and now 2016 both with the same issue. It throws the check engine light on and will just about die everytime putting gas into the car or when stopped for random periods of time. The vehicle uses more gas and you can literally smell the fumes escaping from the flapping gas tank lid. In order to start the car you have to pump the gas petal and occasionally the car will stall out while driving.
1st incident (Oct. 8, 2024)- while traveling up a slight incline vehicle began to sputter and then stopped accelerating. No codes where thrown, no warning of any kind. The vehicle was still running and had all power, but there was no acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal. I was able to turn the car off and restart it and acceleration started but only for a brief moment, I was able to pull off into a driveway. Turned off the vehicle and restarted - vehicle would not accelerate. Turned off vehicle and waited 10-15 minutes - restarted the vehicle and the vehicle accelerated. Vehicle drove fine until the 2nd incident (Nov. 2, 2024) - stopped at a red light, once light turned green - no acceleration, no codes, no warning signs, and vehicle was still running and had power. Turned off vehicle and restarted and accelerated. Again, the vehicle drove fine until the 3rd incident (Nov. 19, 2024) - same thing happened - stopped at a red light, once light turned green - no acceleration, no codes, no warning signs, and vehicle was still running and had power. My safety and others are very much at risk due to the fact that I am not able to accelerate when needed and there isn't any warning as to when it will happen. I am luckly that I have been able to turn the vehicle off and back on again quickly.
Had a coolant leak which further damaged my whole engine. i need a new one now after only having my car for 2 years.
The car started to jerk as I was driving. Sometimes it's OK other times it starts when I accelerate like it goes out of gear came on. I did try to take it to AutoZone with the light had already gone off. I also took it diagnostic. they said that I could Transmission control module issue. I change my battery voltage. Immediately battery this resolved the problem for about 30 minutes and then the process started over again. Insecure driving this vehicle at this point I have read online. This is an issue 2016 Ford fusion I need help .
Coolant leaked into a cylinder due to a failed head gasket at 61,000 miles. Ford replaced head gasket, but the issue is due to poorly manufactured engine, and I had the same issue starting again at 99,000 miles. Ford refuses to fix engine since it is out of warranty, but the issue is due to poor manufacturing, not customer negligence.
Vehicle after every single time we refuel have to press gas pedal to start afterwards it keeps stalling until you gun the acceleration to pick up speed. Vehicle after that runs okay until the next time you fuel up.
The contact owns a 2016 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that upon refueling the vehicle, the check engine warning light illuminated on the instrument panel. After restarting the vehicle, the vehicle returned to normal functionality, but the failure became a regular occurrence. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed a failure with the float gauge, requiring a replacement. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who confirmed the diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 70,000.
I have this car with a coolanat leak into the Cylinder causing a misfire resulting in fuel/oil in cylinder and white smoke coming from the exhaust. i keep on having codes pop up and my cabin smells like burnt oil my kids are smelling this on a daily basis its bad for their health i know Ford knows about this problem. if my car catches fire because of the oil problem whos responsible, I've changed out spark plugs. coils. fuel injectors. all sensors. an nothing seems to work. when i changed my oil it looks like oil is flooding my motor an covering my entire engine an leaking everywhere its also a road hazard
The car stalls out and stops moving out of no where while driving and smells like fuel as well
The canister purge valve in this vehicle repeatedly goes bad. Since buying the vehicle in 2018, the purge valve went bad in 2019, twice in 2020 and last (although I’m sure it will happen again) 2024. It throws the check engine light on and will just about die everytime putting gas into the car or when stopped for random periods of time. The vehicle uses more gas and you can literally smell the fumes escaping from the flapping gas tank lid. The smell is awful. I’ve reported this problem to Ford themselves since the first issue due to their being multiple people online with the same issue with this vehicle. I thought the purpose of “eco friendly” meant to not release harmful gases from the vehicle. Ford has zero cares of this issue. The odor is so strong which leaks inside the vehicle. It’s made my grand kids sick on 2 occasions. Why this isn’t a recall yet is beyond me. The repair cost each time has been a little over $500. I have ALL receipts of repairs. Does products have been placed on this vehicle. Although now I’m second guessing my choice of the ford part and maybe should have went with an after market part. Because clearly Ford isn’t concerned about the problem and fail to fix the canister purge valve so it isn’t releasing harmful gases into our atmosphere.
I brought my ford fusion 2016 SE with around 84,000miles on it, into a local dealership for recalls I needed done, my car was running completely fine before that. Ford did a multi point inspection and I passed for everything besides tires and brakes which was expected! Not even 12 hours after getting my car back, my check engine light turned on.. I was so confused on how that was happening. I contacted ford again and they told me my coolant pressure was low but that wasn’t even stated in my multi point inspection. Anyways I had to go to work the next day and my car completely stops in the middle of a main road & my car wouldn’t accelerate. The person behind me almost slammed into my back end. I have never had a complaint about my car, I love my fusion. But after further research this is a very common problem with my specific model and year, so much so that there’s an on going lawsuit for the coolant leaking because of the design of the engine, which can cause over heating, fires, and needing an engine replacement. I was completely shocked, because they didn’t say anything about my coolant until I told them my car stopped driving in the middle of the road.. This is a serious safety hazard, and I don’t have 9k laying around for a brand new engine that was fine before I brought it in, this is a recurring problem that’s happening to so many ford owners. This seems very sneaky and dangerous coming from such a well known company I’m so disappointed.
There is an issue with the (evap) solenoid/associated sensor that causes the vehicle not to restart at unexpectable intervals and the fuel delivery system is also affected during fueling and seemingly during acceleration, at least. The key was recently replaced and association between the problem and the key reading mechanism is unspecified. A power train affect/association is also likely component- that based upon information provided to consumer. I've heard similar problems with other Fords and in other conversations it has not been indicated to me that the models' component's failure is not problematic. It has not been stated how that is contributory to the increased collision risk associated with the brake component that is a current recall. It began prior to the key replacement which is in the dealer repair record and 4 weeks prior to this submission is listed as the incident onset date.
I purchased my car on 9/22/21 with 103,000 miles as well as opting into the extended warranty offer. Since then, I have had a LOT of issues. It was taken to the dealership on 8/1/22 due to an issue with acceleration; the car would stop operating while driving to a point where I’d have to pull over, turn it off, then turn it back on. The check engine light would come on with code P0299. I had to pay for the repair since it was deemed it was a vacuum leak...which wasn’t covered in my warranty. The issue returned shortly after, so my car returned to the dealership on October 3,2022. The diagnostics indicated I needed a new transmission, so I didn’t receive my car back until November 19, 2022. Shortly after receiving my car back, I noticed coolant leaking to the bottom of the engine. There is also white residue on my spark plug in the first cylinder. I have just returned from the dealership to have my vehicle diagnosed (5/16/23), but I was told I have exceeded the mileage for the warranty coverage; to have my car diagnosed for the 3 issues, it would cost $199.99 each....and it may result in requiring a new engine....which would cost around $8,000. So essentially, I am now stuck paying a car note on a vehicle that has had several MAJOR issues not even 2 years into ownership.
When driving vehicle on warm starts, vehicle stalls and engine loses power. Warm start means any time vehicle was driven, turned off, and then restarted after less than 30 minutes of being turned off. For example, when fueling at a gas station, or making a quick errand into a store or fast food restaurant. One once occasion, vehicle also stalled after shifting to drive after an extended period of idling (approx. 20 minutes - was idling hoping to avoid stall when beginning to drive again). In general, vehicle will start (but may need a few tried before turning engine over), and idles at 500 RPM, rather than expected 1000 RPM. On acceleration, when vehicle reaches 2500 RPM or greater, needle drops to 0 and vehicle shuts off while driving. On some occasions, vehicle will also stall/shut off when decelerating as well (particularly in parking lots or instances when one may drive and stop/slow frequently). I took vehicle to mechanic and learned that turbo charger was leaking oil into throttle body - both were replaced by mechanic, but issues persisted. The vehicle stalls while driving, putting the safety of myself, my passengers, and other vehicles at risk in case of collision due to sudden stall. The vehicle has been taken to my local mechanic as well as the Ford dealership - in both cases I was advised that the check engine light was not on, and that there was nothing they could do until the light came on or vehicle was stalling consistently. The vehicle is now stalling consistently, however dealer informed they are not able to do anything because the engine light is still not coming on. The dealer did confirm they were able to reproduce the issue, and my local mechanic also confirmed reproducing the issue. These problems began on or around January 5, 2023 and vehicle was first assessed by local mechanic on January 11, 2023.
After a rear-end collision, my check engine light came on. I have been told it is due to a problem with the purge valve; however, the purge value is located in the front of the vehicle. I am concerned that a rear-end collision can cause this vehicle damage to the emission system that is coded incorrectly, or a rear-end collision can cause damage to the car's computer system causing it to throw faulty codes.
I've had my Ford Fusion for about 9 months now I have white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I asked was it the head gasket and was told no. I was told it was a cracked radiator, water pump and thermostat. Cost me almost $1,700. Only for the white smoke to come back a week later.
I've had my ford for almost a year and found that coolant was getting into my engine and causing it to overheat and went to get it checked out at a Ford dealership only for them to tell me I would have to buy a new engine I can't afford. I've been looking online at all the problems that could arise if I don't switch the engine like the car starting on fire in hot summer days and can't afford to buy a new car as I had to get a loan for it and can't even drive it much for worry of anything happening. It's my main source of transportation to work and without it I could lose my job. I can't afford to get a new car and another loan for that as well while paying for my ford's loan. I've tried to do research for a recall on the engine but nothing seems to be showing up and I don't know what to do but just keep driving the car and continuously filling the coolant waiting for the day my engine fails on me or it starts on fire and maybe my insurance will cover the costs. I really enjoy the car and have had other ford's before but for the dealership to sell me a car that would fail on me and have me pay more for an engine is not right. This isn't okay and I'm in a situation I can't get out of without being put more into debt with getting more loans.
Purge valve, fuel filler neck/vacuum neck and air grill issues - check engine lights on for engine and inject issues.
When the car is going down the highway it will make a loud sound and the just shut off in the middle of traffic and some time it will not make a.sound,and it shuts off. This is a very dangerous thing to be happening on a highway. I have had several close call in which the person or people behind me had to swirl around me to keep from causing a major car crash. I have had my car to shut off on me several times before. I took it to have it checked out and the cause was determined to be within my fuel line, causing me to have the fuel tube replaced. As they where checking my car another Ford Fusion was having the same problem.
The car stalls on idle repently and check engine light won't turn on, so there no error codes. But apparently it's a fuel pressure sensor.
Car lost power and just cut off right on Railroad Tracks, managed to get it restarted, called dealership in my area, took it in. They stated their computer wasn't finding anything. After a heated discussion, I finally got the head mechanic to drive it and it did the same thing to him. He said new fuel pump, so it costs me $810.00, labor included, which I thought was rape. Just a ridiculous charge, but hey I'm at the mercy of them!!! Three (3) weeks later same thing happening, just cuts off, leaving me on highway at night. Took it back, they put another fuel pump on, no charge. Week and half later, Key Fob doesn't unlock doors, even after putting a new battery in. Tire Pressure FAULT came on and car continued to cut off, again leaving me in a very dangerous situation, but I GOT LUCKY. I took it back to the dealership and told them the Liability is on them. The Car is DANGEROUS and UNPREDICTABLE, "I do not feel safe in it" and they need to keep it until they can determine what is wrong and STOP playing a guessing game. I have read over 788 complaints about this vehicle and the same things are happening to other people. I will proceed with Attorney's, News Media and Insurance Companies if this is not rectified. THE CAR IS A DEATHTRAP!!!
The contact owns a 2016 Ford Fusion. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed with the fuel tank half-full, the vehicle stalled inadvertently. Additionally, the contact stated that the failure reoccurred after refueling the vehicle. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. The dealer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
Driving on internet highway at approximate 65 mph, the car shut off. I coasted to the roadside in heavy traffic. after many tries, the car restarted and got off the thruway and drove home. This car has 21907 miles on it. I made an appointment at Gary Crossley Ford in Kansas City, Mo. They told me it was a fuel faulty purge valve, and because the car with 21907 miles on it was out of warranty and would cost $870.00. I have since researched the purge valve and find that it is a pretty common event to shut the car off on crowded highways. This is a serious and dangerous problem. When I called Ford Dearborn to check if there was a recall, I was told it wasn't a problem.
throttle body-wpc part ds7z9e926d The throttle control element failed. Traveling on highway going about 45mph and engine jolted lost power and immediately reduced speed to about 10mph (,if car behind me was close would have ran into the rear of my car ) Car was running very rough -Coasted to side of highway - shut car down and restarted , Car was ok for about a mile - same thing again but was able to make it home very slowly, engine running very rough. Garage replaced throttle control element. Running ok now. Incident was very scary and could have easily caused an accident.
Canister purge valve malfunction. I had trouble starting my car a couple of times and it would randomly stall out. But after getting gas this last time, I noticed a humming/grinding sound coming from the gas tank. When stopped at a red light (in rush hour traffic) the car stalled completely and wouldn't start. Had to wait a few seconds and try starting again and again, when it finally started again the noise was still there. I called a friend and we ran diagnostics on it and it returned the error of the canister purge valve malfunction. This has been a recall on other Ford cars in the past but not showing on my VIN....
I bought my 2016 Fusion two years ago with 75,000 Miles on the odometer. The first day it went into fail safe mode while in the passing lane. I had no engine power and had to pull over in traffic. Code P2111 Throttle body stuck open. I cleaned the throttle body and maf sensor with a $10 two pack of spray cleaner. My car now with 110,000 miles just did the same thing yesterday 5/17/21 while in traffic code P2111. I cleaned the throttle body again even though it didn't look dirty compared to the first time. My car shut down three times today while in traffic. Each time I had to pull over with no power shut off the car and restart the engine. I will replace the throttle body but believe this is very serious defect and should have never happened at 75,000 miles or even at 110,000. Very dangerous and scary to drive far from home knowing how much it would cost to be towed and have to pay a shop to repair. Kind regards, [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
At approximately 125000 miles, the vehicle displayed the check engine light and was experiencing difficulty restarting after refueling. Local auto parts store code reader displayed etc p1450. Online research pointed to a faulty cannister purge valve. This fault and accompanying symptoms were outlined in recall # 18s32. This recall is not currently applicable to my VIN. Diagnosis performed by sanders ford in swansboro, nc confirmed faulty purge valve.
Car began running hot while on interstate and immediately slowed to 40mph in 70mph zone. Barely made it off interstate without being hit. After waiting for over an hour and filling with water I was able to make it home before it ran hot again. Codes p1299 and p0303 are showing. When I called ford I was told they have had to fix hundreds of cars with the same problem which is internal coolant loss, overheating, and misfire of cylinder #3. This costs thousands of dollars I was told. I just fixed a faulty purge solenoid and can't afford to pay thousands more on things ford should have recalled!
Hace 2 aos compre un ford fusin 2016 con 34,000 millas del dealer. El ao pasado mi ford fusin se me apag cuando estaba esperando la luz verdad para avanzar, gracias a dios a los tres intentos arranco. Despus eso lo lleve a un mecnico personal y me dijo que eran los inyectores (267$) tambin en ese tiempo arreglo las bujas porque estaban desgastadas fue raro porque yo apenas tena un ao con el carro entonces lo arreglo y qued bien. Hoy en da el carro empez a hacer lo mismo del ao pasado pero ahora como tena 4 recalls para arreglar lo lleve al ford para que ellos compusieran los recalls y de paso checaran que es lo que tiene mi carro, en fin me llamaron de ford para decirme que el costo para arreglarlo es de 9000$ que porque ocupa motor nuevo y yo an estoy pagando mi carro. Pienso que el carro me lo vendieron defectuoso y yo no se que hacer porque no quiero afectar mi crdito si dejo de pagar.
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