This past week I experienced a catastrophic malfunction with the vehicle, while driving it appeared to short circuit and shut down. It would not allow me to drive in any gear whatsoever. Upon taking it to a mechanic at Jiffy Lube he stated the incident is identical and experienced the same issues that Honda and the Dept of Transportation deemed a recall that could have ended in severe injury or death. That issue and recall being (see below) Powertrain:Auto Transmission Control Module (TCM,PCM). You see the mechanic at Jiffy Lube referred me to this recall due to his analysis and diagnosis being the same. Whom stated that the vin doesn't state a recall, but it being the exact same model, make, engine, year, and coupled with the fact that it has TCM and PCM catastrophic damage, I was subjected to and encountered. I request this matter be further researched and investigation conducted because 1.5 million vehicles were effected and I'd feel more confident and place more faith in Honda upon investigation.
2010 Honda Accord transmission complaints
Page 2 of 3: complaints 11 to 40 of 45, newest first, as owners wrote them.
On 1/29/2022 at about 11am I was stopped in a turning lane waiting at a redlight. When the light turned green I pressed the gas pedal. At this moment the ability to drive, brake, and select gear all failed. I deployed my emergency brake. I called the police to let them know I was blocking traffic and my car was towed. When my car was taken to be repaired the mechanic determined that the CV Axle Driveshafts had failed due to salt corrosion. These were then repaired and the car worked again as normal.
Right side axle rusted need to be replaced never had this type of problem with my previous honda.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle would not properly accelerate and experienced high revving when shifting from first to second gear. Also, the transmission would not shift above second gear. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the ab solenoid was faulty. The solenoid was replaced however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was towed to the local dealer matt castrucci honda located at 3013 mall park dr, dayton, oh 45459, who perform a software update to the automatic transmission module as per the federal safety agency campaign number: 11v395000 (power train) however, the failure persisted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 125,000.
140000 miles and the transmission when going up slight hills, on freeway 65 struggles or slips. The vehicle has had the required services done when suggested. This problem started around 135000 miles and has progressively gotten worse.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated when the vehicle was started there was an abnormal sound emitting from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who test drove the vehicle and stated that the transmission was slipping. A dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 151,177
Transmissions slips. Engine check light codes p0780, p1733, p0008 and p0796. My transmission takes time to engage after I place the car in drive. Drive light also blinks. Is there a TCM in a 2010 honda accord exl.
Engine makes a rattling sound on cold start, then disappears. This issue began after my previous oil change, performed by honda. On further investigation the sound is the caused by the vtc actuator. The honda technician confirmed that diagnostic, however, the dealership states that my vehicle isn't covered under the service bulletin a09-010 march 17, 2016 01607 version 4, to include 2008-2012 accord all trims and VIN ranges. I was informed that although my vehicle meets those specifications, my VIN is not covered under the warranty claim information, even though min is a pzev 15-150k miles power train vehicle. I reported the issue at 144,000 miles and if I wanted it repaired it would cost nearly $1900 parts and labor.
I bought my 2010 honda accord 2dr lx-s (5a) brand new in august 2010 and have had several issues with it since - most of which has gotten worse that I am scared for my safety and those on the road. - while driving on both highway and non highway speeds ranging from 15mph - 60mph severe rubber smell and grinding of brakes-sounded as if the entire car was going to fall apart. When I got home the rear brakes and pads were completely rusted, black and were extremely hot to touch. Schaumburg dealership said the rear pads weren't installed correctly. -everyday since mile 25,000 my car when started at any time has made a large and extremely loud cranking noise that lasts about 2 seconds. Schaumburg dealership days this is related to the I-vtec 4-cylinder engine but it was no longer under warranty. (this was at 71,000 miles). No fuss had been made had they said it is completely fine with the cranking noise. -when turning and driving in general the car makes a weird whining noise from 0mph - 45mph I've noticed this many times as when turning left or right my vehicle ias extremely uneven. This also could relate to the starting wheel being 5 inches to the right when the wheels are straight; I've paid for multiple alignments and it continues to happen. -lastly the breaking system is terrible and does not stop correctly. I now have to slow down almost to a complete stop 500 feet prior so they work; I have to drive extremely slow and be very cautious.
Engine noise from a cold start. Vtc actuators makes a rattling noise.
Engine buring oil - piston rings need replaced, also vtc actuator, timing chain, tensioner and guide. 2nd time with issue - not resolved 1st time.
Cold start rattle due to vtc actuator failure.
My accord oil light illuminated on and off when there was 40% oil remaining, and therefore, I took my vehicle into fletcher jones honda, which is where I regularly go for routine maintenance service. Then I received horrific news concerning the life of my vehicle, which is in need of a brand new 3.5-liter vtec v6 engine, which will costs $12,372.87. This was especially alarming news because, my vehicle is only six years old and I've only have honda to service it. Also, it was recommended that the following maintenance is performed: timing belt replacement $565.39; clutch assembly $2,019.86; spark plugs replacement $209.52 and syn power (efi service/fuel injection cleaning service $159.95,which brings my out of pocket costs to $15,327.59.
When driving on the freeway on my way to work the check engine light came on. After exiting I checked for error codes (as I always carry the p-code reader with me). The code stated that cylinder 3 was misfiring. I double checked all spark plugs to make sure the connections were okay. The engine light continued to come on, with a rough idle, and engine codes started to be more spontaneous as it stated random misfires/multiple cylinder misfires. I took my car to honda and was told that I likely need to replace the ignition coil, so I did that and still experienced the same problem. I then took it to a shop where they also suspected bad ignition coils. They then did a valve adjustment and was positive that would fix the problem. After performing that job, the car continued with the same rough idle but only populated the error code stating cylinder 3 is misfiring. They took out the spark plug and ignition coil on cylinder 3 and discovered a cracked intake valve. I've spoken to at least 10 shops, 2 honda service dealerships, and 2 personal mechanic friends that all state that a broken intake valve at 107k is very unusual and likely a result of poor design. I have read about the class action lawsuit for all v6 honda accords between 2008-2012. Unfortunately the 2010 v6 6 mt is one of the few models left out of that law suit. I have already had a shop start on the repairs as I have no choice but to have them done asap. I figure an unlikely event like this is due to poor engine design since I have thoroughly kept up with all scheduled maintenance (spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, oil change, etc..). I feel that honda should be responsible for this 2000$ dollar repair.
The past two times I have brought the car in for an oil change I have been told that the oil level is below the dipstick. Both times I have brought the car in for an oil change with 20% oil life showing. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd sometimes gets "blocked". That is the only way I can describe it, you go to shift and cant get into gear, either have to go back to 2nd or back to neutral and then back in. The "double pump shift" usually works. I have also had a problem with the speaker deck rattling which I had supposedly fixed under warranty but only to have the same problem.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that a rattling noise emerged from the transmission and made a loud sound. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The dealer stated that a secondary shaft bearing fractured. The vehicle was taken to a transmission specialist and the diagnosis was the same. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 100,370.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. While attempting to park, the vehicle rolled away, jumped a curb, and crashed into some shopping carts before coming to a complete stop. The contact did not specify if any injuries were sustained or if a police report was filed. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 66,241.
Purchased vehicle 5/8/2014. Driving home and I called my husband and stated that the car sounded like crap--wasn't shifting correctly and just had a horrible sound coming from engine. He stated we will check oil and transmission fluid when you get home. To find no oil or transmission on either. We immediately contacted dealer we purchased from and we had it towed there for attention. Car dealer changed oil(which wasn't much) and transmission fluid were "fine". Passing the buck! We continued to keep an eye on it to find we are putting quarts of oil in it. It has had 3 oil changes in less than 6 months and not due to mileage---due to each place we took it to-dealer-changed oil, jiffy lube-changed oil-honda-changed oil and started "oil consumption" test. I have checked oil in my cars, since I was 16 years old. Honda stating "it's normal"--it's not normal to have to keep adding oil to your car between one oil change to another, due to mileage only. You can visually see oil everywhere on the engine block and laying on other components of the engine. Fix the car!!!!!!
Excessive oil consumption. I am putting 1-2 quarts oil every 3000 miles, even though the oil life indicates 80% or better. I bought this car new and just noticed this about 9 months ago. The oil is not leaking, it is just gone. Also when I start the car first thing in the morning or when is cold, the top of the engine makes a rattling noise. There is also a loud pronounced noise that sounds like it is either the engine or the transmission, something doesn't sound right. I am taking it to the dealer to have it checked out.
Brought a car from millennium honda in hempstead. Less then 4 months need a new transmission service manager refuse to give me a loaner car when I went to get it fixed. Still having problems with my car. Sold me a lemon. Making a sound like the engine is going to fall out.
When starting the car at a cold start, you hear a loud grinding noise sounds for 2 or 5 seconds. There is a tsb 09-010 regarding a vtc actuator that drains of oil and is not properly lubed when starting the engine cold, causing the grinding noise until oil reaches the part again. Grinding noises in an engine are bad, and could lead to catastrophic engine failure should the abrasive metallic parts (due to grinding when there is no oil in the actuator) becoming lodged. This engine failure could happen at any time, possibly in a highway lane. While my car engine has not yet seized, there are online reports of this happening. Currently, honda will only fix this issue under warranty. They also give the car owner a really hard time proving the issue, requiring the car be left at a dealership overnight to replicate the problem. A loaner vehicle is at your expense. If the car is not under warranty, this expensive repair bill is at your expense. If your car is under warranty and they are not able to replicate the noise, both the loaner car and diagnostic fee are at your expense. This greatly reduces the number of people willing and able to have this important safety issue fixed. Running engine components without oil should be a recall. It is clearly a safety issue that can cause other problems with your engine. If the engine stalls unexpectedly, it could lead to death.
Issue: for past 6 months these issues has been observed in my honda accord v6 ex-l and has increased in past 1 month and has been seen at least 3 times in past month. While driving between 65-70 miles/hour on a gradient roads, the power train RPM increases to in excess of 4000 RPM and the car stalls, causing the steering wheel to lockup. Yesterday this happened suddenly while driving in normal road condition ,and had to park the car, is it related to these recalls ?#11v395000, #11v004000,#10v640000 apply.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that the vehicle exhibited an abnormal grinding sound and stalled without warning. The contact was able to restart the vehicle with the help of a roadside assistance service. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed. The contact spoke to the manufacturer in regard to the federal safety agency recall campaign id number: 11v395000 (power train: automatic transmission: control module (TCM, PCM) but was advised that the vehicle was not included in the recall campaign. The failure and the current mileage was 37,000.
Transmission jumps. Hesitates and stalls somewhat frequently, a lot more than to be expected of a car only 2 years old. More so at the lower gears when accelerating. Rpm is not consistent with throttle input. Unfortunately, it does not trigger the check engine light, so honda does not see an issue, but something is off with the drivable.
At 20,000 miles the vehicle had a failed wheel bearing (noise/vibration), passenger-side front. Driver-side front wheel bearing failed at 34,000 miles. Dealer replaced the hub/bearing assemblies under warranty. This is a defect, as the bearings should not fail at such a low mileage. How long will the replacement bearings last ?
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that while driving any speed, rocks would enter the grill and damage various components of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and the contact was informed that the condenser for the air conditioner was fractured. The vehicle was repaired. In addition, the contact stated that the vehicle hesitated to accelerate from stops. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer and they stated that the torque converter and engine mounts failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified and covered all repair costs, but informed that the failure remained and there were no other remedies. The failure mileage was approximately 13,000. Updated 03/14/12*lj updated 06/18/12
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that the automatic transmission control module software was defective. When the gear was shifted into park, the vehicle would automatically shift out of park and into reverse, causing injury to the contact. The contact referenced the federal safety agency recall campaign id number: 11v395000 (power train: automatic transmission: control module -TCM, PCM) but was advised by the manufacturer that the VIN was not included. The vehicle was neither inspected nor repaired for the failure. The failure mileage was 25,000.
Tl* the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that the gear shift button failed. The button would not allow the shifter to shift between gears. The dealer was contacted but could not understand the nature of the failure because the vehicle was not taken in to the dealer for inspection. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 27,428.
After 9 years of perfect satisfaction with a 2001 honda accord,I purchased a new 2010 honda accord on 08/2010. Loud whining noise started after approx. 1000 miles of driving. Heard whine, loud and consistent on startup and the whine intensifies as the engine warms with driving. Dealer replaced power steering pump on my third trip to honda service.noise continues even louder with new pump. A return trip to honda dealer I was told it is a noise characteristic of this model. The nerve racking whine is deadened only with the radio vol. Turned up. Two other problems create very stressful driving conditions. The head rest extend too much forward creating severe neck strain and the stiff feel in the seats require constant shifting of position. I will never purchase nor recommend a honda to anyone. My main concern now: is this whine an indicator for an unsafe situation or for a more serious mechanical problem?
Tl*the contact owns a 2010 honda accord. The contact stated that she parked the vehicle in a parking space and when she came back the vehicle had rolled into to the other end of the parking lot. The emergency brake was engaged when the vehicle was parked. The vehicle crashed into two other vehicles. A passenger in the other vehicle stated that they suffered a whip lash injury. The police responded and filed a report. The vehicle was driven to her residence and was currently being repaired by a local mechanic. The failure mileage was approximately 15,000. Updated 05/12/11 *bf the consumer stated the hand brake was adjusted after the vehicle was repaired. Updated 05/12/11
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